VW 01M Transmission
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- čas přidán 11. 11. 2017
- Assembly of the 01M or AG4 Automatic Transmission installed on VW/Audi/Skoda and Seat vehicles. The other parts to this video is being produced, it takes a lot of effort to do so with all the editing necessary for a quality product. As mentioned in a reply to a comment, part 1 will cover component assembly and part 2 will deal with the valve body. A release on the dismantle and assembly of the differential is also planned to complete the series. Donations can be sent to the Paypal address to be inserted here later. We appreciate any amount as it will offset production charges and keep us publishing.
This is the most instructive video I have seen on the subject. Thank you very much for posting it. I am now searching Youtude for parts 1and 2
Did you find it?
if you look at the needle bearing you will see a raised profile on one side and a depression on the other side. Cup side up refers to the depression side. If you should pour some oil on the cup side it will accumulate in the little depressions around the bearing.
Yes man im rebuilding one now cant wait fot 1 and 2 bro thank u for your channel your much needed like ron the powerstroke man
thanks for share👍👍👍
Спасибо большое тебе 👍
nice information
Excellent...this all should also apply to the 01N transmisions. Very helpful! Please keep the other parts coming.
Thank You very much for the encouragement. Yes, the 01N is very much the same as the 01M there are very few differences, with the case being one of them. The internal name for the 01M is the 096 and for the 01N 097 but all from the same AG4 family. However, if you are building your 01N, I advise that you follow instructions for that transmission as procedures may vary.
I am not at this stage yet...knowledge wise. Currenty I am laerning to understand the valve body...since my wife's 96 A4 shifts a bit harsh once in a while. Oil is fresh...and it will now receive a newer valve body with a Trans Go kit installed...fingers crossed! ;-)
Hello, thanks for all your support. My mechanic removed the gearbox assembly, removed the torque converter and cleaned the torque converter housing.He poured in some 1liter ATF, checked for leaks and there was no form of leak anywhere.He reinstalled the torque converter and rotated it, but we still couldn't find any leak. He turned the entire gearbox upside down,held it for 5mins, still no leaks. He went ahead and removed the old seal with a flat blade screw driver and installed a new seal.pls note that during all this, the oil pump was never removed. He will be reassembling the gearbox this morning. Pls just to know, is there any other place to check. The oil cooler seals are fine, the speed sensors on the gearbox are fine, no leaks there. The F125 switch is fine too. No leaks from under or around the filter housing. The leak was seen around the area where the gearbox connects with the engine. Do we need to recode the gearbox after reinstallation? How is that done, if we have to recode it. Thank you so much for your support and Good bless.
recoding is not necessary. If the leak was between the engine and transmission, then it must be the front seal behind the converter or the o-ring seal around the oil pump. Cannot come from anywhere else. Go back and take a good look.
Thanks for your advice. The seal was replaced new transmission oil poured in the leak stopped.However, the worst happened. The car drove for 10km and stopped going into reverse or forward. It has stopped moving. Before now, when it was scanned it came up with a code 01192, which is torque converter lockup clutch malfunction. Cleared the code before even changing the seal. Car will no longer engage in drive or reverse. Scanned the TCM, no fault code was seen. Pls is the transmission bad now beyond repair? What could be the solution. Thanks so much.
@@pauliroha5506 The clutches are damaged. You will have to rebuild the transmission.
Which country are you from?
@@Anton3051 ok. Thanks so much. I am in Nigeria.
Thank you for this video! Do you now how i can correctly refill the transmission with oil?
thank you my friend. Please I need a special pdf for this gear box
Will publish soon still editing part 1 components and clutch assembly. 2 valve body. Also working on the final drive. Stay connected for the updates.
What is that you have for building the gearbox up, does it work with other gearboxes? Looks much better than how we do it on the bench.
Any idea why there’s a clunk when putting in reverse. I cleaned the filter several times to get it to shift past first gear. This worked.
Adjusting the brake band (the bolt) doesn’t get rid of the clunk. 1991 VW Jetta. Is there a servo pin. Thank You.
What means with "cup side up" for axial needle bearing?
Muy buen día, en qué posición van los engranes de la bomba de aceite de la 01M
Can some one show me how to get part two of this series?
Any recommendations on assembly lube for this box?
The leak will only be present when there is oil pressure.
Hello man i have a t4 gear problem please do u have any clip 4 that
hi man,i have vw bora with automatic transmission with code FDG.i wonder is there a special oil for final drive(differential) and how can i change it?Do you have any information for this gearbox?Thanks man.
Would you please post links to parts I and II.
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🌹🌹🌹👍
You can use Trans Gel or just light Vaseline
Thanks Anton. The reason I ask is because I'm in the middle of the rebuild and am having an issue with the B1 clutch ( Sprag). When I do the spin test @ 2.29 everything works as it should; ie: spins clockwise and locks counter-clockwise but I notice that there is a awful squeal noise when turning the assembly. I've tried assembly grease ( slick honey) and it seems to quiet it down a bit, but unfortunately there is still some noise. I don't no if this normal, or an indication I will need to buy a new one way clutch?
Thanks for any feedback and great video!
@@cortdawson8613 The squeal is normal I have done several with high pitch squeal. The important thing is that it locks and unlocks. I have had to change two recently but not for noise the plastic cage had become soft.
@@Anton3051 Again, thanks for taking the time to help! I can now move on with my build :)
Where is your shop located?
Hi, thanks for the video. I have a VW Bora with 01M transmission. It started leaking transmission and will hesitate (drag) before move when in traffic. I have checked the filter housing, transmission cooler, drive shaft flanges and no sign of leak there. Pls where is the possible source of transmission fluid leak
Can you say if fluid is on the ground and at which area in relation to the transmission. Around the oil pan, the area of the front seal at the converter, the seals under the cooler will leave quite a mess if leaking and will reduce fluid quickly resulting in your problem. Be aware other defects can be responsible for your drag in traffic. Other areas such as the Selector switch behind the box close to the firewall can also leak as well as your speed sensors but they are high up and not subject to direct pressures. The flanges at the axle are out of the question.
Anton 3051 is the same person as Anthony Lyons. I use Anton 3051 for my other youtube postings on BMW engines etc.
Thanks so much for the information. The leak is not from the oil pan, it more from the torque converter side. Though I saw a little splash near the oil cooler. My worries now is when I noticed the leak, I managed to drive the car home(26km) and when I stopped, I put it on park to open the gate. When I reengaged it on drive, the car would not move but rev up. When I eventually switched off the car and turn it back on, it started moving again, though slowly like it in gear 3. Could that mean that the gear box is completely damaged due to the rapid oil leak? Please what is the way forward to solve this problem. Thanks once again.
@@pauliroha5506 Ok, you may or may not have damaged the tranny, to check it do the following; locate the transmission filler plug at the front of the unit (under the starter slightly to the right). Ideal is from the bottom but you may not have the equipment. Fill the tranny with about 1 liter of fluid and try the car again, if it responds better add another but do not fill it to the top you will make a mess anyway. If it works better then it is unlikely you have sustainable damage, remember you cannot use the car because the flow of oil to the converter is great so you will loose the oil quickly. Get the seal changed asap. It may or may not be a job beyond your capability.
We have had similar situations with positive results after changing the seal, so there is a chance it is still working.
should of used a dowel to install the pump
Any news on part 1 and 2??
still working on it.
@@AnthonyLyons3051 Its been 2 years. Don't worry about editing. Just upload to youtube!
I have a 2002 vw Jetta tdi with auto trans. When hot it won’t go into reverse unless I give it gas. I replaced the reverse feed tube o rings and it still does it. I am not a professional Transmission builder but I am a professional auto tech of 15 years and I do work at a European repair shop. I have rebuild some easier transmissions like 4l60e but never one of these 01m tranny’s. I think I’m going to try to rebuild it. The only thing that I’m not to sure of is shimming the pump. Could you explain how to shim the pump? Thanks
Also I was reading up on my reverse issue and a lot of people say the trust bearing/needle bearing goes bad causing my problem but I haven’t found any replacement bearings online. I know I need to tear down and inspect first but anywhere you can recommend to buy parts?
Hi, I would love to help with your rebuild, it is really simple. I however am lost when you describe the "reverse feed tube o-rings" I am not sure what you are talking about, could you point to a time in the video where it is mentioned. The shimming of the pump is another question, are you talking about the part of the video where the H gauge is used nearing the end. If you clear up the fog for me I am sure willing to help. Oh! by the way can you kindly subscribe to the channel. Thanks a lot.
Frankly, I have never seen an episode where the needle bearing went bad and caused reverse problems. The Reverse Drum with reverse clutch is usually the first component to be wiped out if there is abnormal clearance between the oil pump stator body and the Reverse Clutch. There is a flat plastic washer fitted there which breaks or is wiped out because of wear. Added to that is the return spring assembly which collapses over time, all of which can cause your reverse problems along with the low reverse clutch. However, I do not think your problem is coming from the low reverse clutch.
Anthony Lyons first of all I appreciate you making this video and answering questions. Ok the reverse feed tube (that’s what someone else called it) is behind the valve body, it’s the plastic tube with 2 o rings and a spring. The adjustment I was talking about starts at 10:02 on this video, you said there is a part 2 video that explains this. I just want to make sure I do this correctly. I plan on taking the Transmission out in a week or so
Anthony Lyons I also think I have some torque converter shutter and also feels like converter goes in and out of lock up.
What's the estimate cost?
you from trinidad by chance? do you have a contact?
У меня игольчатый подшипники по другому стоят
Hi Tony, what difference/effect on the TCM/ECM does it make when you swap a gearbox on a 1.6l, 74KW engine with a 2.0l, 85KW engine. The gearbox code of the 1.6l,74KW engine is FDH and that of 2.0l, 85KW engine is FDG. The major difference in these two gearboxes are the number of clutch packs (K1,K2,K3, B1 and B2), the number of teeth on the input/output, pinion/ crown wheel gears. The physical construction, connection points, connectors, valve body and other components are the same. They are also both For 4 speed 01M auto transmission gearboxes. Thanks.
can't say for sure, never tried swapping 1.6 for 1.8. The 1.8 is a stronger box as is required for the higher torque as produced by it. I am sure the ECU is mapped to handle that increase in torque. Try it but I see conflicts as the TCM will also be mapped differently to that of the 1.6
Thanks Tony. I did a research and discovered that the gearbox with FDH has input gear 61 teeth, output gear 63 teeth, ratio 1.033, pinion shaft 16 teeth, crown wheel 78 teeth, ratio 4.875. FDG has input gear 45 teeth, output gear 44 teeth, ratio 0.978; pinion shaft 15 teeth, crown wheel 68 teeth, ratio 4.533. However both gearboxes have the same 1st,2nd,3rd,4th and reverse gear ratios.
@@pauliroha5506 so while the 1.8 gearbox will work, the mapping in both the computers will still be different.
Thanks Tony. After the swap, the car shifts fine. However, on certain harsh acceleration/deceleration the transmission stays in 3rd gear and restarting the car normalizes everything. Some codes are set on the TCM like 00545, 00529. Could this be a likely cause
@@pauliroha5506 00545 is no connection between T CM and ECM, you may want to check the ECM for similar codes. Check your electrical connections again. clear the faults and drive the car and recheck.
00549 is no consumption signal.
Judging from your accent Im asking are u from Trinidad
certainly.
Mr Anthony my father's bora needs his 01m repaired but he left that responsibility up to me as he is no longer here but he really loved the car so I I will have to pay you a visit
Quassir Williams Sorry about your dad. Feel free to drop by anytime. You can also call me. 760-8619
Anton3051 yes I will call tomorrow from this time received