I've been in a bunch of these things but learned some stuff from this video. Great video on a carburetor that's underserved as far as availability of information. My Dad is an enormous fan of these...more so than I am, actually. They aren't real fussy, they hold a tune, and they don't have many places to leak fuel. I'm not saying this is the right thing to do, but here's something I learned when a lot of these carbs were on daily drivers. The hot air choke tube would often rust off where it comes up through the exhaust manifold. I learned a basically free way to "fix" it is to take the clasp from a ball chain, like a keychain. Spread it with a screwdriver just a little so you can make it a press fit into manifold, then force the choke tube down over the top of it. Voila, the choke works again on a car or pickup truck that isn't nice enough to qualify for a lot of TLC.
The venerable 2100! It’s great that they’re stepping up production for aftermarket parts for these. The aftermarket really needs to step up production of 60s Ford parts. Good stuff Jeff 🏁
Most Ford Shop Manuals will have the venturi booster number listed. The shop manuals have a lot of information on the carburetors. The accelerator pump cover is from a newer carb using the bowl vent valve. It probably got changed because the pump covers are bad about warping and leaking.
Mine is still new, bought it new in 77, has the hand choke, I have a old holly’s and another old carb that was on the old engine at the time, it had a bad vacuum advance and didn’t need the carb, Been setting since 1980. Going to have to get that old truck running again
That’s a good carb. My sons first carb to build was one on a 390, it fired up and idled no screwing around with it. We eventually had to fart around with the power valve, but that’s always an issue with these. But once these are dialed, they’re pretty dang good.
Biggest problem I have with the 2100 carburetor is the fact that it's a gas monster. If you can keep your foot out of it you would do better with a 4100 Autolite four barrel for gas mileage.
The booster(s) can be ID by looking up base part 9523 in the Ford Master Parts Catalog. Also ID in the shop manuals, of course have to have correct year(s). As far as pump housing, apparently changed late '63(which would definitely include 289).
A lot of it is just being able to go and make sure the ports are clean and that everything is the way it should be as far as set up for preliminary start. That part comes next week in our video.
I just saw some of these( well, Chinese copies) on amazon, if you don't care if you have the original. Uncle Tony's garage has used some of the copies of the mopar carbs, and they apparently work well. Under 100 bucks, probably cheaper than sending one off that has throttle shaft issues. Not promoting foreign parts, but sometimes, they may make sense. Wish you could buy new Autocraft, or Motorcraft carbs instead.
Hey Jeff! Literally have one of these kits ready to go on a 2100. Interesting point about the power valve. Would never have known. Please can you tell us what would be the problem with using the #7 that comes with the kit. Would it just mean we would not get as much pep at WOT? Or would it also affect "normal" acceleration at a stop light or while overtaking?
Enjoying the video. Was wandering on your 351c motor video did you mention about what cars came with 351c 2v closed chamber heads.was it on 1970&71 all models because I see a almost 100 horse power drop on all models 1972 and up. Again thanks.will closed chambered heads need harden valve seats.
Oddly that might make a really good video since it was more about how Ford portrayed their horsepower in 72. All 2V Cleveland heads in the United States were open chamber heads; meaning that a larger combustion chamber than the 4V heads. The Aussies were the only ones that got the 2V close chamber head.
@@AutoRestoMod mabe but I have seen think i have seen 2 v closed chambered heads non Australian. It's been a year or 20 ago . But I know the difference between 4 v open and closed chambered heads are not a lot of metal .person has to pay a lot of attention to chamber shape..thank you for your reply
so i have the same 2100 in my 68 mustang 302 have rebuilt it 100 times $65 rebuild kits (also rebuilt engine) it still stalls at idle alot when cold but when up to running temp idles nice only issue i see it's missing that spring side of float and the float is black plastic in the haynes manual some 2100 never had that spring
I’m pretty certain that is not the original carburetor as well. At least the type of accelerator pump and pump lever is not correct anyways. But they seem very close
If you’re not doing a perfect OEM original restoration, get rid of those old 2 barrels. However, I encourage any young mechanic to rebuild any carb for the practice.
Hey Jeff Great video as usual you got me thinking for a second there as to your comment of the Carby for fuel economy.... what in you opinion is a good carb for fuel economy? I heard a lot of guys talk about the quadrajet with the small primary's... I lean more towrds good tuned carb and 14, 7 afr on cruise whats your view ?
Jeff I have a 66 mustang when I took the 2100 autolight carburetor off the light spring on the end of the float it was missing can u tell me where I could buy one or do I really need it
I just got a 1963 galaxie, pretty sure it has the 352 with 2 barrel 2100. Where do you recommend I get a 4 barrel? Im assuming thats what the 4100 is. Would it be a direct bolt on or would I have to make any modification? Sorry if I sound ignorant.
Would you recommend different jet sizes based off where you are located, i.e. elevation? I’ve also heard of a calculation you can do based off vacuum pressure to determine correct power valve. While idling in drive get the vacuum reading from manifold vacuum, divide that number in half to get the power valve size, at least according to what I’ve read. Never take a reading on mine though to figure out if I got the right power valve installed. Also, were you going to do another video on how to setup the dashpot correctly?
I had the autolite 2 bbl rebuilt on my ‘69 Falcon, but the car has been sitting about 2 years, is there anything I should do when I try to get it running again?
Remove plugs, hand crank the engine to make sure you don't have any kind of obstruction in the cylinders. Pull a valve cover and use the starter to get oil pressure up. OR, If you are ambitious you can pull the distributor and use a drill motor to pump up the oil pressure in the engine. This is the safer of the 2 methods. It will also require you to reset up the timing. Past that pop some plugs in it put some wires on it and see what you got.
@@AutoRestoMod Thanks, I was asking about the carb specifically, I had put on new plugs/wires and it ran ok last time except for a loose rocker or something in the valve train😀
I've been in a bunch of these things but learned some stuff from this video. Great video on a carburetor that's underserved as far as availability of information. My Dad is an enormous fan of these...more so than I am, actually. They aren't real fussy, they hold a tune, and they don't have many places to leak fuel. I'm not saying this is the right thing to do, but here's something I learned when a lot of these carbs were on daily drivers. The hot air choke tube would often rust off where it comes up through the exhaust manifold. I learned a basically free way to "fix" it is to take the clasp from a ball chain, like a keychain. Spread it with a screwdriver just a little so you can make it a press fit into manifold, then force the choke tube down over the top of it. Voila, the choke works again on a car or pickup truck that isn't nice enough to qualify for a lot of TLC.
Cool tip thank you
The venerable 2100! It’s great that they’re stepping up production for aftermarket parts for these. The aftermarket really needs to step up production of 60s Ford parts.
Good stuff Jeff 🏁
Thank you Paul
I just tore my carb down following your video and a black widow was sitting where that bug was!
Geeze even less ideal!
Don't forget to point out the venturi size callout on the carb body and its relation to engine size.
Yeah, missed that.
@@AutoRestoMod What!?! You can't remember everything about everything? I'm so disappointed 😭
I love that the 2100 can be run and adjusted on the engine with the top off.
Yup
Most Ford Shop Manuals will have the venturi booster number listed. The shop manuals have a lot of information on the carburetors. The accelerator pump cover is from a newer carb using the bowl vent valve. It probably got changed because the pump covers are bad about warping and leaking.
Agreed.
Mine is still new, bought it new in 77, has the hand choke, I have a old holly’s and another old carb that was on the old engine at the time, it had a bad vacuum advance and didn’t need the carb, Been setting since 1980. Going to have to get that old truck running again
That’s a good carb. My sons first carb to build was one on a 390, it fired up and idled no screwing around with it. We eventually had to fart around with the power valve, but that’s always an issue with these. But once these are dialed, they’re pretty dang good.
Biggest problem I have with the 2100 carburetor is the fact that it's a gas monster. If you can keep your foot out of it you would do better with a 4100 Autolite four barrel for gas mileage.
The booster(s) can be ID by looking up base part 9523 in the Ford Master Parts Catalog. Also ID in the shop manuals, of course have to have correct year(s).
As far as pump housing, apparently changed late '63(which would definitely include 289).
Thanks for the heads up on that, I know that they changed but I had understood it was for 64.
This channel needs more people following. Let’s get Jeff to 100,000. I’ve been following since watching the first video that
Thanks for that Chris love it!
Great video- I've rebuilt my 2100 many times (I'm the original owner) but never knew about increasing the power valve size. Thanks
Remember, stock powervalve was an 8.
I never have any luck on rebuilding carbs. I just send mine out for Rebuilding..
A lot of it is just being able to go and make sure the ports are clean and that everything is the way it should be as far as set up for preliminary start. That part comes next week in our video.
doing one thing at a time Heads than carb,to see if just the head work helps running than carb it runs well now
I just saw some of these( well, Chinese copies) on amazon, if you don't care if you have the original. Uncle Tony's garage has used some of the copies of the mopar carbs, and they apparently work well. Under 100 bucks, probably cheaper than sending one off that has throttle shaft issues. Not promoting foreign parts, but sometimes, they may make sense. Wish you could buy new Autocraft, or Motorcraft carbs instead.
If it was Motorcraft youd have $400 in it.
Sharp content! I'm reserved to doing everything twice because there are just so many details you need to consider and tackle.
Agreed.
Another good video. Thanks for doing this, it's helpful content that is hard to find for 60s Ford's.
You are very welcome.
I've heard of people using a 22 shell casing to fix a throttle shaft leak
All I have to crack off a few 22 rounds and check it out lol
On the float assembly
Hey Jeff! Literally have one of these kits ready to go on a 2100. Interesting point about the power valve. Would never have known. Please can you tell us what would be the problem with using the #7 that comes with the kit. Would it just mean we would not get as much pep at WOT? Or would it also affect "normal" acceleration at a stop light or while overtaking?
Power valve is a "give it the beans" juicer. The cars tend to run lean with the 7.0.
Enjoying the video. Was wandering on your 351c motor video did you mention about what cars came with 351c 2v closed chamber heads.was it on 1970&71 all models because I see a almost 100 horse power drop on all models 1972 and up. Again thanks.will closed chambered heads need harden valve seats.
Oddly that might make a really good video since it was more about how Ford portrayed their horsepower in 72. All 2V Cleveland heads in the United States were open chamber heads; meaning that a larger combustion chamber than the 4V heads. The Aussies were the only ones that got the 2V close chamber head.
@@AutoRestoMod mabe but I have seen think i have seen 2 v closed chambered heads non Australian. It's been a year or 20 ago . But I know the difference between 4 v open and closed chambered heads are not a lot of metal .person has to pay a lot of attention to chamber shape..thank you for your reply
so i have the same 2100 in my 68 mustang 302 have rebuilt it 100 times $65 rebuild kits (also rebuilt engine) it still stalls at idle alot when cold but when up to running temp idles nice only issue i see it's missing that spring side of float and the float is black plastic in the haynes manual some 2100 never had that spring
True.
I have the 2100 carburetor on a 66 mustang
I’m pretty certain that is not the original carburetor as well. At least the type of accelerator pump and pump lever is not correct anyways. But they seem very close
The body is correct, but Am certain someone changed the accelerator pump.
Took my carburetor loose and the light spring isnt 😊on mine is there anyway I can get one somewhere
What sorcery did you use to get the nuts off 😮
If you’re not doing a perfect OEM original restoration, get rid of those old 2 barrels.
However, I encourage any young mechanic to rebuild any carb for the practice.
Hey Jeff Great video as usual you got me thinking for a second there as to your comment of the Carby for fuel economy.... what in you opinion is a good carb for fuel economy?
I heard a lot of guys talk about the quadrajet with the small primary's...
I lean more towrds good tuned carb and 14, 7 afr on cruise whats your view ?
A four barrel. And small primarys are better. Oh, and a light foot.
Jeff I have a 66 mustang when I took the 2100 autolight carburetor off the light spring on the end of the float it was missing can u tell me where I could buy one or do I really need it
Out of curiosity is this Chip Fooses dad? Striking resemblance or is it just me.
I just got a 1963 galaxie, pretty sure it has the 352 with 2 barrel 2100. Where do you recommend I get a 4 barrel? Im assuming thats what the 4100 is. Would it be a direct bolt on or would I have to make any modification? Sorry if I sound ignorant.
that's a later style accelerator pump. It is possible someone changed it.
I guess it's possible but I think it's probably a late 63 carburetor.
Why didn't you take out the fuel inlet seat for the needle? Sometimes there is a small screen underneath.
I plan to replace it from the kit.
Would you recommend different jet sizes based off where you are located, i.e. elevation? I’ve also heard of a calculation you can do based off vacuum pressure to determine correct power valve. While idling in drive get the vacuum reading from manifold vacuum, divide that number in half to get the power valve size, at least according to what I’ve read. Never take a reading on mine though to figure out if I got the right power valve installed. Also, were you going to do another video on how to setup the dashpot correctly?
The divide will "get you in the neighborhood". Driving will let you know if you need more or less. Jet sizes will change with elevation.
I'll take it. 😁
Lol when we're done.
Is that power valve correction also relevant to the 4100?
I had the autolite 2 bbl rebuilt on my ‘69 Falcon, but the car has been sitting about 2 years, is there anything I should do when I try to get it running again?
Remove plugs, hand crank the engine to make sure you don't have any kind of obstruction in the cylinders. Pull a valve cover and use the starter to get oil pressure up. OR, If you are ambitious you can pull the distributor and use a drill motor to pump up the oil pressure in the engine. This is the safer of the 2 methods. It will also require you to reset up the timing. Past that pop some plugs in it put some wires on it and see what you got.
@@AutoRestoMod Thanks, I was asking about the carb specifically, I had put on new plugs/wires and it ran ok last time except for a loose rocker or something in the valve train😀
I would replace the accelerator pump diaphragm. They will tend to harden up. I found them in the help section of my local auto parts store.
George B.
Why the hell does he take a saw to that fuel line? That should be the last resort. At least attempt to find the wrench !!
I've heard of people using a 22 shell casing to fix a throttle shaft leak
I might have to try that.
Wax, soap, or thick grease work too.