I went lazy and used strips inside the window. This is my first year using xlights and pixels in general so my setup in minimal. Thanks for the videos you have helped me out a few times!
Nice setup Steve. When I did mine , I used some 1 x 2 wood and made a false casing that fits inside my windows so it’s able to hold it self there on its own. Then I attached the pixels using 12mm plastic clamps. Low cost solution since the shipping from the states is expensive for the coro. Also it’s crazy how much those pixels have discolored over the years.
Thanks, and I like your idea of making a false casing. Can you post a link of the 12mm clips you speak of? And yes, it is crazy how they look, but they are solid as a rock and put out the same bright colors as if they are new. The pixels on the dark asphalt roof look like they’ve got 3rd degree burns, but those still run and look great at night.
Trying to find a way to mount the lights to my windows I dont have shutters and its just a hardi plant siding and with flat trim. I would like to avoid putting holes in my house
If you were doing it again would you consider wiring the middle as a push one skip one then fill in the skipped ones on the way back like you might on other props like singing faces or would you continue with the splicing?
I guess that would work by starting in the middle going out one side, then back, then up to the top then back, to the other side and back, then straight down (not skipping) to then run around the outline perimeter. You would still need to add an extension to get the input to the middle of the window. Alternatively, the outline could be done first then the inside parts, but you’d still have to run an extension to the outgoing pigtail from the middle of the window. It’s a great idea and would certainly reduce the number of soldering joints required to wire it up. This method would make modeling it in xlights a little more complicated. But once it’s done, it’s done. Great idea!
@MattWells0 Thanks for the diagram and sharing with others. I think that would work if the pixel spacing were closer than 3". With 3" pixel spacing, each node jump would require wire spacing of 6". My pixels have 4" spacing, so every pixel in the middle would require splicing. However, if the inside line spacing was 1", that would work with 4" spacing that come with standard pixels. Alternatively, if you specify wire length from a pixel vendor, you could do it that way.
Yes, the lower window frames are just sitting on the shutters. I do have a very small hole drilled through that PVC piece and dropped a small finishing nail to give it some hold onto the shutter. But there’s really not much holding it onto the shutter. We do get some really windy storms at times, but those window frames just seem to stay put.
Hi Steve, as always thanks for the detailed info. We appreciate it. Also, it may just be me, but your Amazon affiliate link is not directing me to your recommendations.
You are very welcome! Glad the videos and detail have been helpful for you. I just checked the Amazon affiliate link and the links to specific products. Those are working for me. Could it be your DNS setup that’s not allowing the links to work?
Great stuff for Christmas 2023!
I went lazy and used strips inside the window. This is my first year using xlights and pixels in general so my setup in minimal. Thanks for the videos you have helped me out a few times!
Hello Steve. Another great video!! As a noob, you've been a huge help sir!!
Nice setup Steve. When I did mine , I used some 1 x 2 wood and made a false casing that fits inside my windows so it’s able to hold it self there on its own. Then I attached the pixels using 12mm plastic clamps. Low cost solution since the shipping from the states is expensive for the coro.
Also it’s crazy how much those pixels have discolored over the years.
Thanks, and I like your idea of making a false casing. Can you post a link of the 12mm clips you speak of?
And yes, it is crazy how they look, but they are solid as a rock and put out the same bright colors as if they are new. The pixels on the dark asphalt roof look like they’ve got 3rd degree burns, but those still run and look great at night.
Great job as always Steve. That is my next project is to do the windows. Definitely want to see how you wire all these to your controllers.
nice setup steve i did mine i made holes in the pvc pipe and put pixel in it
So good thank you im still new to all this n gives me a clear vunderstanding of how to. Thank you
You do amazing stuff and thank you for sharing your experiences, it's helpful.
You are so welcome, thanks for the comment!
Could you put a link to Part 2 in the "more" section with the other links?
Done!
Trying to find a way to mount the lights to my windows I dont have shutters and its just a hardi plant siding and with flat trim. I would like to avoid putting holes in my house
If you were doing it again would you consider wiring the middle as a push one skip one then fill in the skipped ones on the way back like you might on other props like singing faces or would you continue with the splicing?
I guess that would work by starting in the middle going out one side, then back, then up to the top then back, to the other side and back, then straight down (not skipping) to then run around the outline perimeter.
You would still need to add an extension to get the input to the middle of the window.
Alternatively, the outline could be done first then the inside parts, but you’d still have to run an extension to the outgoing pigtail from the middle of the window.
It’s a great idea and would certainly reduce the number of soldering joints required to wire it up.
This method would make modeling it in xlights a little more complicated. But once it’s done, it’s done.
Great idea!
@@NiFamilyLights It would be possible to avoid the splice by starting at any of the T junctions. Here is a wiring diagram starting and finishing from bottom centre for example:
26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34
25 -- -- -- 07 -- -- -- 35
24 -- -- -- 08 -- -- -- 36
23 -- -- -- 06 -- -- -- 37
22 04 05 03 12 09 11 10 38
21 -- -- -- 02 -- -- -- 39
20 -- -- -- 13 -- -- -- 40
19 -- -- -- 01 -- -- -- 41
18 17 16 15 14 45 44 43 42
@MattWells0 Thanks for the diagram and sharing with others. I think that would work if the pixel spacing were closer than 3". With 3" pixel spacing, each node jump would require wire spacing of 6". My pixels have 4" spacing, so every pixel in the middle would require splicing.
However, if the inside line spacing was 1", that would work with 4" spacing that come with standard pixels. Alternatively, if you specify wire length from a pixel vendor, you could do it that way.
@@NiFamilyLights, thinking this would work at 2" spacing.
26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18
27 - - - 9 - - - 17
28 - - - 8 - - - 16
29 - - - 10 - - - 15
30 5 6 4 7 11 12 13 14
31 - - - 3 - - - 45
32 - - - 2 - - - 44
33 - - - 1 - - - 43
34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42
@toddward4756 Yes, that could work with 2" spacing.
So the lower window frames just hang on the shutters or is there a screw/fastener? Is your house front not exposed to northern winds?
Yes, the lower window frames are just sitting on the shutters. I do have a very small hole drilled through that PVC piece and dropped a small finishing nail to give it some hold onto the shutter. But there’s really not much holding it onto the shutter. We do get some really windy storms at times, but those window frames just seem to stay put.
Hi Steve, as always thanks for the detailed info. We appreciate it.
Also, it may just be me, but your Amazon affiliate link is not directing me to your recommendations.
You are very welcome! Glad the videos and detail have been helpful for you.
I just checked the Amazon affiliate link and the links to specific products. Those are working for me. Could it be your DNS setup that’s not allowing the links to work?
What lights did u use that fit the trim pieces?
All lights used are standard bullet pixels.