I got a set of the black ones for my Gladiator and they make that truck HEAVY! I went with the Furitek Komodo for my drive train and some injora high clearance links to go with it.
Hey Furitek has an updated battery tray because the micro Komodo’s are supposed to be run backwards due to the interference with the links in the front I was disappointed because I like the weight down low and up front anyways hope this helps cheers 🍻
@@CCRCAdventures that stinks I have same chasis but with komodo. I had issues with drive shaft rubbing the bell. I either had to run shocks verticle or limit the travel to prevent the rubbing. In the in i flipped the skid plate and with motor towards the rear I have no more rubbing issues.
If you look at the motor plug you will see there are two little plastic tabs that hold the brass connectors in the plug itself. If you lift those tabs up slightly you can pull the connectors out. Then just switch the positive and negative.
I didn't print these. The Warthog chassis I bought from the designer on Etsy. The wheels are from Tinker Time RC. I don't have a 3D printer. One of these days I need to get one...
I got a set of the black ones for my Gladiator and they make that truck HEAVY! I went with the Furitek Komodo for my drive train and some injora high clearance links to go with it.
I love the chrome look of the portal axles there awesome looking
Looks so amazing 💯💯💯
It's amazing 👍👍👍
awsome reveiw man thank the info
Hey Furitek has an updated battery tray because the micro Komodo’s are supposed to be run backwards due to the interference with the links in the front I was disappointed because I like the weight down low and up front anyways hope this helps cheers 🍻
They sent me the other tray as well, but it put the weight too far to the rear for my liking.
4 link it to resolve bell rubbing
It didn't make any difference. The link still runs right under the motor.
@@CCRCAdventures that stinks I have same chasis but with komodo. I had issues with drive shaft rubbing the bell. I either had to run shocks verticle or limit the travel to prevent the rubbing. In the in i flipped the skid plate and with motor towards the rear I have no more rubbing issues.
@@jono1830 I ended up taking the stock plastic y link and grinding out part of it for clearance and that seems to have done the trick.
Very nice upgrade 😉👍
I don't understand English well, you don't seem to be convinced 🤔 sorry
Great video, im running a brushed motor, how did i swap the wires? Can u explain or send me a video please
If you look at the motor plug you will see there are two little plastic tabs that hold the brass connectors in the plug itself. If you lift those tabs up slightly you can pull the connectors out. Then just switch the positive and negative.
so today my axles decide to keep popping out when I turn. any thoughts why? at almost no steering angle now and they've been just fine before.
I would get in touch with RCAWD. They have releases some new CVD axles that should help fix that problem.
Nice video, are these portals down geared vs the stock or are they the same ratio?
They aren’t geared down.
@@CCRCAdventures thanks for the response. Keep up the great work!
What filament did you use on the warthog in this video ? And the wheels where can I find those ?
I didn't print these. The Warthog chassis I bought from the designer on Etsy. The wheels are from Tinker Time RC. I don't have a 3D printer. One of these days I need to get one...
@@CCRCAdventures thanks for your reply buddy. Any idea on what kind of material your Warthog chassis is made of ?
@@TheDroneNerd I wish I knew. He doesn't say in his listing.
you got a link to where i can find that chassis?
furitek.com/products/furitek-scythe-cf-rail-frame-blue