AFTER A COUPLE OF COMMENTS ON GOOD WAYS TO CLEAN THE AWFUL RUST IN THE PROJECT PETROL TANK, I DECIDED TO HAVE A LITTLE EXPERIMENT #petroltank #motorbike #restoration #willitrun #fueltank
WARNING: Asssuming that I looked up the right datasheet then this product is NOT bleach, but actually HCL acid-based (and that makes sense that it would help remove rust). Bleach on the other hand is a strong oxidizer, and it will heavily speed up oxidation (rusting) on all metals because it releases a lot of oxygen as it reacts. Putting actual bleach (sodium hypoclorite) on a metal part like this would probably be a disaster. I had to look it up because these results made no sense if it was bleach. I assume the author was just confused by the labeling and didn't have malicious intent.
Thankyou for your advice. I didn't mean to mislead anyone with this video and the product. This product was sold to me as bleach and I was truly ignorant until your post. Definitely no malicious intent on my part. Thankyou for leaving advice and not abuse.
@@CultofRust No problem. Everyone makes mistakes. Any bleach based product will have sodium hypochlorite on the ingredients label if in doubt. Most acids will help dissolve rust, and you can probably find a much better source for acid than this stuff which is fairly dilute. Products for de-calcifying concrete (building/home improvement) are often sold in bulk 5L for cheap and usually contain hydrochloric or phosphoric acid. Just check the ingredients label. Cleaning vinegar is also good and cheap, and citric acid may be found in reasonable quantitites as concentrated powder in food stores and supermarkets are it's used for pickling. After any acid rust removal you should neutralize the acid with a base (a little baking soda in water), dry off, and then either paint or oil as soon as possible. Otherwise it will "flash rust" and start to show visible surface rust again in as little as a few hours (depending on humidity). Any acid left on the surface makes the flash rusting happen even faster - so that's why neutralizing is important - or at least a very thorough rinse.
I am glad you tried bleach. I would never recommend bleach with steel. Bleach causes steel to rust. Soap and water might be as effective, don’t know. To get rid of rust you need an acid like vinegar or muriatic acid. Either way you have to neutralize your chemicals afterwards.
I looked up the datasheet for the product, and it's HCL acid based, not bleach. That makes a lot more sense with the results. The video title should really be changed to avoid people trying to replicate this with actual bleach.
, in fact as it would amount, in theory if you had a metal polish dilution, that should amount a as good / better / same as result, better in the essence that it also treats the metal for longevity
So the bleach work just got rid of a lot more muck, so I realised I have a carton of brick acid, so poured it in the tank, about 3 hours ago, it's gradually working to bare metal, in bits, it's a 9.5% HCL
Yuh it's pretty much bare steel from about 7 hours of the brick acid (9.5% Hydrochloric acid/HCL) just that's left is surface layers in the sides of the tank, I've got petrol soaking in it over night and adjitating it with bolts and a door chain slung in....I will probably mix in a whole pot of metal polish with the petrol tomorrow as I know that will erode rust particles from steel aswell, that should be about that, for a last rinse out I'll order some white vinegar Monday. ✌🏻
😂 i have a '78 CB200 am doing up, I left the bike in the garden when I wasn't very well and got it in before all the rain last winter, chassis survived, oil still in motor so no bottom end rust (haven't got the head off yet) but the tank cap was left open and was a tad worse than yours .....so i uh, watching this thought hang on I've got a litre of bleach and half a litre of stainless steel/ kitchen cleaner 💡! So shoved the lot in the tank , topped it to the brim with water, shook the hell out of it, stuck it on its side (old petcock leaks and drops out the cap but it'll be okay for 24hours, tomorrow here we come 😂
@Leonard thankyou my friend. I put the comment in Google translate and it said "burnt". I received no other messages from them but hopefully they got it sorted...thankyou for taking the time to translate for me....
WARNING: Asssuming that I looked up the right datasheet then this product is NOT bleach, but actually HCL acid-based (and that makes sense that it would help remove rust).
Bleach on the other hand is a strong oxidizer, and it will heavily speed up oxidation (rusting) on all metals because it releases a lot of oxygen as it reacts.
Putting actual bleach (sodium hypoclorite) on a metal part like this would probably be a disaster.
I had to look it up because these results made no sense if it was bleach. I assume the author was just confused by the labeling and didn't have malicious intent.
Thankyou for your advice. I didn't mean to mislead anyone with this video and the product. This product was sold to me as bleach and I was truly ignorant until your post. Definitely no malicious intent on my part.
Thankyou for leaving advice and not abuse.
@@CultofRust No problem. Everyone makes mistakes. Any bleach based product will have sodium hypochlorite on the ingredients label if in doubt.
Most acids will help dissolve rust, and you can probably find a much better source for acid than this stuff which is fairly dilute.
Products for de-calcifying concrete (building/home improvement) are often sold in bulk 5L for cheap and usually contain hydrochloric or phosphoric acid. Just check the ingredients label. Cleaning vinegar is also good and cheap, and citric acid may be found in reasonable quantitites as concentrated powder in food stores and supermarkets are it's used for pickling.
After any acid rust removal you should neutralize the acid with a base (a little baking soda in water), dry off, and then either paint or oil as soon as possible. Otherwise it will "flash rust" and start to show visible surface rust again in as little as a few hours (depending on humidity). Any acid left on the surface makes the flash rusting happen even faster - so that's why neutralizing is important - or at least a very thorough rinse.
I am glad you tried bleach. I would never recommend bleach with steel. Bleach causes steel to rust. Soap and water might be as effective, don’t know. To get rid of rust you need an acid like vinegar or muriatic acid. Either way you have to neutralize your chemicals afterwards.
I looked up the datasheet for the product, and it's HCL acid based, not bleach. That makes a lot more sense with the results. The video title should really be changed to avoid people trying to replicate this with actual bleach.
Thankyou for drawing my attention to this. I was honestly unaware of differences till you pointed this out. Thankyou for your advice.
Good test I would say Danny.. Great video buddy 🖖😁
Thanks man. Your support is really appreciated
, in fact as it would amount, in theory if you had a metal polish dilution, that should amount a as good / better / same as result, better in the essence that it also treats the metal for longevity
worth a thought. thankyou
That’s toilet bowl cleaner, curved top, which uses a very mild acid.
ive done exhausts with Harpic and a school paint brush it does work a treat
my friend was doing a suzuki Bandit exhaust this weekend
I was told about exhausts. I'm wondering if I can do my wheels too
@@CultofRust i see no reason no to i think its all about keeping the Harpick moving and a full rinse off
Can you wash it with domestos?
I honestly don't know sorry
So the bleach work just got rid of a lot more muck, so I realised I have a carton of brick acid, so poured it in the tank, about 3 hours ago, it's gradually working to bare metal, in bits, it's a 9.5% HCL
awesome. hope it works for you
Yuh it's pretty much bare steel from about 7 hours of the brick acid (9.5% Hydrochloric acid/HCL) just that's left is surface layers in the sides of the tank, I've got petrol soaking in it over night and adjitating it with bolts and a door chain slung in....I will probably mix in a whole pot of metal polish with the petrol tomorrow as I know that will erode rust particles from steel aswell, that should be about that, for a last rinse out I'll order some white vinegar Monday. ✌🏻
😂 i have a '78 CB200 am doing up, I left the bike in the garden when I wasn't very well and got it in before all the rain last winter, chassis survived, oil still in motor so no bottom end rust (haven't got the head off yet) but the tank cap was left open and was a tad worse than yours .....so i uh, watching this thought hang on I've got a litre of bleach and half a litre of stainless steel/ kitchen cleaner 💡! So shoved the lot in the tank , topped it to the brim with water, shook the hell out of it, stuck it on its side (old petcock leaks and drops out the cap but it'll be okay for 24hours, tomorrow here we come 😂
awesome. Good luck
Nice fix!! Is it still good now?
at the moment it's still looking good
Sir meri bike ki tanki ko andar se jank lag Gaya he kya karu
what do you mean it was burnt?
@@CultofRust he said is tank is rusted from the inside and asked what should he do. He is speaking hindi .
@Leonard thankyou my friend. I put the comment in Google translate and it said "burnt". I received no other messages from them but hopefully they got it sorted...thankyou for taking the time to translate for me....
English ko gooli Maro Hindi mein samjhawo 😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅
I have no idea what this means sorry
You english people r so funny 20 ml liquid is enough to clean the tank if u open the floating sensor from the bottom of tank 😂😂😂😂😂
I mean.... maybe a little racist but you do you
@@CultofRust?
Hey my tank was rough, shoved a litre an a half of bleach and stainless steel cleaner in it .,!,,
awesome