Loss of air at vents on acceleration of a 1998 volvo s90 960 Quick Fix
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- čas přidán 6. 05. 2016
- i talk about various issues with loss of air to the vents at acceleration or going up hills, and show a quick fix on how to get air back at your vents
- Auta a dopravní prostředky
DUDE, I have been putting up with this on my V90 for two years, I tried this and it is heaven! Thank you so much!
Glad it helped you out. That's why I do my videos to help out people with similar issues
Thanks for your video. I have a 1993 Volvo 960 wagon and the a/c stopped blowing yesterday while returning home on 350 mile trip in 98 degree heat. It was windows down for 275 miles. This car has 303,751. Miles on it and still going strong. Love my ride : ) So happy you made the video.
Thanks for this video. I had no air coming out of the vents when driving or parked. It was a bad solenoid. I replaced the solenoid and everything works as it should! 1998 Volvo S90 245,000 miles and everything still works! Runs and drives better than most cars with a 100,000 miles. These cars are built well!!
@@swright2346 sweet!!!
@@raiderman28 Thanks again!
This is by far THE most thorough video I have ever seen! Wow..
Been working out a similar issue for about a year on my s90, I'm surprised I didn't find this video sooner
I have a 1997 S90, thanks for the video, I too had the same issue, I put a small vacuum cap in that same line, also, I learned there is a small vacuum leak in the diaphragm motor, eventually I will have to replace the two stage vacuum motor.
HVAC works great for now!
Just wanted to add my thank you to the group. I have a new to me 1998 V90 where I could hear the fan blowing but little air coming out of the vents at times. Other times it worked great. Found two bad solder joints on vent controller module. Heated them up with a soldering iron and so far all is good. Thanks.
Harry James great job
Raul, Thanks for posting this! It fixed my 1993 940T. Plugged the yellow line with a fuse, good to go! It blows ways better at the dash vents now.
Jeff Eurobikenut Glad it helped.
Jeff, is this still working for you?
@@sunapeelakers Michael, Yes, still working. But now, the AC has quit working and it's warming up. Thanks.
Been trying to fix this problem on my 960 for two years. Thanks a bunch for the advice. Fixed it last night--Awesome!
Glad , any info worked
just can't use the recycle air button, because the problem is in that part of the system.
+Raul Romo Ok, Thanks!
This worked for my 1995 960. Ready for another few years and another 100.000 km. Thank you.
Yes the 960 & the S90 is pretty much the same car.
Thanks! My 1995 960 manual had this problem and the diaphram was leaking on the yellow hose! Thanks alot for the fix. Glass fuses are useful afterall 😂👍😎
Great video, well done.
I have no air coming out of the front vents, going to dig into that solenoid and then those actuators. Thank you for a great video, I couldn't find much more info on these systems
I had the same problem. I fixed it. It was the solenoid.
@@swright2346 was the solenoid for me too. I reflowed the solder and it worked perfectly
Thanks for the video, this has been annoying me for years but from what my research told me this is a design issue. I was told Volvo made it so on acceleration, to get max power the system shuts down the ac. I'll do the fix, thanks.
Only when you pin the throttle at max.
Hey I’m going to do this! Got the same problem! I’ve also heard of the PCV/flame trap issue and I’ll do that too. Thanks!!
My old 740 had the same type of problem with vacuum pulling air off the vents. I believe the bellows have a vacuum leak on them somewhere that you likely can not see with them installed.
Thank you! this fixed this issue on my 1996 Volvo 960
Volvo 740 glad to hear that it helped you. 👍
Hi Raul.I haven't read through all the comments, maybe someone else have commented on this already but the "problem" you fixed isn't just that. It's actually a feature that disengages the clutch to the AC compressor temporarily during hard acceleration. Driving a AC compressor taxes the available amount of power the engine produce. Also the fan motor, which draws a fair amount of amperage is temporarily turned down in the same process, causing the generator to spin more freely. Volvo figures that you, as the driver, want all available power go to accelerating the vehicle. Just my 2c..The 940s have the same feature and when you drive upward 90mph that feature turns the AC down almost completely. It's very annoying.
actually, i just bypassed the recirculation diaphram, because it has a hole in it or is bad. i understand your point, but this actually turns off all air flow when you accelerate. this is not a volvo feature. years before, this wouldn't happen, as the car got older, this issue arose. i think what you are talking about is something totally different. you can be driving 20-35 mph but accelerate hard and lose all air. This is not a feature that volvo made, this is a problem with the diaphram not closing correctly because of vacuum loss. All i did was basically close off that line to avoid vacuum loss and it worked. No loss of power on vehicle, and air comes out nice all the time. this is a patch, not a fix.. to fix correctly, you have to pull dash board and replace that diaphram. this car is old and not worth the time or money to fix. thanks for your input
Today is Saturday, October 2, 2021. Thanks for the info. I bought this 1992 Volvo 960 Sedan in Sweden, still got a low mileage (104 thousand miles plus). The same problem, "LOSS AIR AT VENTS ON ACCELERATION". I going to plug a small fuse and we'll see what happen. Again Thanks Raul Romo.
Your welcome
@@raiderman28 Did you get your volvo fixed? I plugged a small fuse and i feel a little bit ac on vent. Is there any other solution to get a maximum air on the vent? Thanks for all your info Sir! I have nice day and stay safe.
Make sure you do not have climate control on circulating, and that you plugged the correct bellow. If your still having issues check the tiny hoses on the passenger firewall in the engine compartment. Sometimes those are broken and cause similar issues
Your awesome I re-did the solder fixed the vent problem plugged the yellow hose fixed the acceleration problem
bleechice thats awesome. Glad you fixed your problem
I know this video is old and I don't even have my 960 any more but my mechanic replaced the bellows and it solved the problem. I should have never sold mine as it was MINT!
jewllake how much was that repair? My bellow that was bad was inside the a/c tank. Have to take half the car apart to get to. There is another bellow that is easy to get to. That one was in good shape on mine
@@raiderman28 I'm going back almost 20 years! It was a 96 960. I think it was like 700.00. I remember they pulled the whole dash. I was single back then and making pretty good money so I just told him fix it!
yes I'm in Georgia so way far away. Anyways don't be too intimidated those models are well built and generally simple to work on but as with all cars they have their problems good luck and when you get it running right go check out the exhilarating right foot satisfying fun of the twin turbo T6
Good info
Tyler Wilson thanks
a quick plug the PCV valve for oil air separator system on Volvo's is one of the main causes for seals to go bad so those gaskets that you replaced and their seals replaced may have all been caused by a clogged PCV valve system if that's system clogs and creates a back pressure in the crankcase and will cause the seals to start leaking because the engine has nowhere for that pressure to go if I can't make it out through the oil dipstick for the oil cap it will start pushing out and going out the seals this is a problem on all of all the models even today number one thing to check the crankcase ventilation system and the flame trap there's a little filter in the flame trap make sure it is cleared or will cause you to have leaks in gaskets and seals
if you ever have any questions about these automobiles please don't hesitate to ask me I even have the factory service manuals for them I owned three of them I still have one of them and I have over three hundred and thirty-two thousand miles on that one. I know these cars inside out upside down from fuel pump to you name it I've taken this entire car apart and put it back together multiple times they are not the most easiest vehicle to work on and they do have their little idiosyncrasies. but all in all a very well-built vehicle and will last hundreds of thousands of miles if taken care of. also if you have an issue with the transmission is slipping out of gear while driving and then turning it off and restarting it makes the drive against another mild and slips out of gear again that is a simple clogged transmission filter replace filter and fluid and you won't have a problem with it again
You know anything about 2001 Volvo S80 turbos?? Getting code P0234. Something about the turbo.
where did you get the factory service manual from?
other than that everything the video says is pretty much correct also the sensor in the dome light oddly enough has vacuum going to it, it constantly draws air across the sensor to get a more accurate temperature reading, genius I think of a well designed if not over designed system there is also a self diagnostic system in the HVAC system and even one in the freakin electric front seats unbelievable but true
check all the hoses to the turbo or more than likely the MAP sensor common failure item but check the hoses first
or take the dipstick out while the engine is running and hot if smoke comes out the tube while running when you have a clogged system there should be a slight negative pressure to the system when operating properly
most cars have these leaks so people replace seals gaskets and it doesn't fix the problem if they did not replace the PCV system or what Volvo calls an oil air separator and flame trap . any Volvo's you get in the future check that PCV valve system first if it is clogged fix it and then see if the seal leaks are still there afterwords
another way to test to see if the system is clog is to take the oil cap off while the engine is running in place your hand over the oil fill hole and if there is a pressure that builds up then you have a clogged system
Yup did that. But the reason I had replaced the oil trap, was because there was a big oil leak there, and come to find out that someone did a shitty patch job, and it was semi clogged. That's why the cam seal blew!! I even dropped the oil pan and cleaned that and replaced all the oil seals in there too. Car runs really good. It's just when I accelerate hard it throws that code P0234. I got rid of all kinds of other codes that thing had. Had a huge issue with fuel lean. Code P1181 & 1171. Nobody could help me figure it out. I even took it in to a Volvo specialist and told me it was the MAF sensor. I replaced it and it wasn't that I looked online and couldn't find anything to remedy the problem. Everyone said MAF or vacuum leak somewhere. I had replaced almost every hose in that card vaccum system. It turned out to be bad injectors, seals and fuel damper. Codes never came back. Fix was cheap too, about $160 in parts.
also is that S80 T6 in nautic blue metallic
Hey Raul thanks for posting this, I have been having trouble with my 1998 s90 AC system and this might be the fix. Just to clarify, do you have hot air coming out of the vents when you accelerate or no air at all? Mine just blows hot air constantly.
I think the issue is definitely in the bellows because all other parts are working fine, there is freon, condensor is cold, blend door is moving, etc. The temperature reading on the dashboard says -188 degrees but I dont think that would effect the cold air blowing into the car, although I could be wrong.
No mines blows cold air and when you accelerate i would lose cold air.
You might check your freon 1st and make sure your a/c compressor working.
@@raiderman28 yeah we checked for freon and the compressor gets very cold. the vaccuum lines were even replaced recently so we don't have any leaks. checked the blend door, appears to be working fine. the mechanic I spoke to recently thinks it could be crack deeper behind the dash somewhere or an issue with the bellows. The snowflake is flashing blue and just doesnt get that cold air into the car when pressed.
I was told that there is also a sensor in the dome light assembly.
+Robert DIY LOL, you mentioned it.
if you see it coming out of one bolt or 2 bolt take those bolts out wrap thread sealant tape around it and put it back in and tighten it down lightly
I think its coming out of most of them. i tried to loosen one, and it was super tight, thought i would break it , so i left it alone. i think they are torqued down pretty good. i could swear a friend of mine who has a Volvo junkyard told me that they sometime break on removal and usually have to be bought at the dealer
Hi Raul, thank you for sharing your experience! I've got a 960ii from 95 and the problem is, that the vents don't blow by driving somewhere upwart. Could it be the same trigger?
Greetings from Zürich
yes it is the same issue. the below is bad, so i plug it, like i did in the video, and basically bypasses that , so you don't have a leak at the below.
Raul Romo Thank you for your quick answer! So I will do it the same way 🔧
the problem lies not in the switch it lies in the recirculation vacuum diaphragm/bellow it gets a pinhole leak in the bellow and as the system tries to add vacuum to keep it closed it uses the reserve vacuum in the four round globes then is proceeds to cause the rest of the system to go into its resting or default position which is to the floor and defrost
Can you explain this better for me
had the same problem on my 940, this fixed it. Will this screw anything else up tho? no cel so i think im good.
it shouldn't mess anything up, just wont work in recirculation mode. you basically are plugging up the bad diaphram, so that you don't have a leak (bad diaphram) and the system retains vacuum
I checked my door for recirculation mode it stayed shut to the out side so I'm not bring in any outside air
is that the T6 or the 2.5T
I watched your video but didn't get my question answered. You showed us that Volvo Air Flap Actuator Solenoid Valve 1388199 and mentioned you had obtained a number of these from bone yards but left out the one critical point I'm vainly looking for. Where is the silly thing hidden and how do you get to it?
Stephen Montgomery passenger side under the dash
Stephen Montgomery take off the panel underneath the glove box
I know this is an older video but wanted to check - what specific type of fuse did you use? Also, while I’m here, any recommendations on where to find that sensor over on the passenger side?
The fuse size doesn’t matter,i used a tube fuse, the size doesn’t matter, because all those tube fuses are the same size in diameter. You just have to plug the hose. That is what i am trying to do. Use whatever you think will work in a hose that size.
Play-do???? Many things can work. The sensor doesn’t have anything to do with this issue.
@@raiderman28 Thanks!
I mean of course to torque
close/pinch off the orange vacuum tube and it should be good you just won't have the recirculation option also make sure the one way check valves are in working order they are the cause of the bellow failing because of opening and closing everything you hold the gas down going up a hill
Did all that, and didn't notice loss of recirculation. Air seemed to work even better. I did end up replacing the sensor by the dash speaker and air seemed to come out a lot colder.
+Raul Romo I closed off a yellow line, and didn't seem to lose recirculation. Maybe it did, but I couldn't notice it. If I don't have the recirculation button on,there is less air ( naturally)...& it still works like that now.
I had the same thing in my 1993 940, during acceleration or heavy load the ac would stop blowing, i think it was just the vacuum dissapearing causing it tho
Volvo 740 thats what this is. But losing vacuum in the bellow, thats why i plugged the line. The bellow probably has a hole in it, but to replace it you would have to dismantle half the middle of the dash. That bellow sits inside of a large plastic container behind the dash. Seems like volvo built the car around this. Not worth trying to dismantle on a old ride like that. 💰💰💰💰💰💰
Is there any other way to repair it, besides making it a huge job??
Nope
Bonjour, moi j'ai un soucis de perte de dépression, apparemment l pièce que tu montre est reliée dans le bloc à une pièce qui ce trouve juste derrière, mais non visible, sauf démontage, car elle tape dans l'habillage et met en défaut le chauffage, qui est où chaud a fond ou froid, selon la position du thermostat au démarrage. Est-ce une panne que quelqu'un a déjà rencontré ?
Please translate in English
You showed the 3 bellows in the video, but didn't say where they are located and how to get to them. Where are they ? What is involved to get to them?
i mention the bellows are on the driver side. if you get under there, you will see them. ( you might have to pull the side panel in the center of the dash, and front plastic under steering wheel to be able to get under there. the bellows are towards the middle part of the dash on the driver's side. if you listen to all the video, i mention to replace them you have to pull practically the whole dash apart, which i was not going to do. this was just a patch repair to get my air back.
Maybe you have seen this. I hadn't seen it before seeing your video. Halfway down the page is a description of the vacuum line colors and functions.
www.volvotips.com/index.php/940-960/volvo-960-service-repair-manual/volvo-960-climate-control-heater-system-repair-manual/
What type of diff does the 1997 volvo 960/S90 have? Mine has the irs.
They are the same 960 and s90. Only difference is suspension and seats
+Raul Romo I know but do they a locking differential in the rear end?
+Daniel McDaniels that I couldn't tell you. Sorry. Don't know enough about the rear end.
Ok
Same. All 95-98 960s/V/S/90 have the same. Transverse fibreglass leaf spring (Corvette style) rear suspension. Some cars have the Nivomat shocks, some do not.
where are you located by the way just wondering
I am in San Diego ca.
I will probably replace the map. That's the only sensor I have not replaced. I replaced the turbo boost sensor I have fixed all kinds of vacuum leaks on this vehicle. It seems like I fix one thing and then something else gives me a problem over and over and over again
+Raul Romo I have never messed with turbos. That's the only thing left to fix on this car. I just watched a video from IPD that show how to check the waste gate actuator, how to test etc. just a little intimidated, because of lack of experience and info b
Thanks for the info, I will check the hoses first, make sure it's not clogged
This car was in bad shape when I got it (2001 s80 t6). Have spent too much money and time getting all the oil leaks, coolant leaks, suspension problems fixed, cv axles replaced, water pump, timing belt, rear cam seal, PVC ( oil trap ) replaced, intake manifold gasket, fuel injectors, fuel damper, filter, and a shit load more stuff
Thanks for the info, I will check the hoses first, make sure it's not clogged
This car was in bad shape when I got it (2001 s80 t6). Have spent too much money and time getting all the oil leaks, coolant leaks, suspension problems fixed, cv axles replaced, water pump, timing belt, rear cam seal, PVC ( oil trap ) replaced, intake manifold gasket, fuel injectors, fuel damper, filter, and a shit load more stuff
I tried this and it didn't work.. any other suggestions? Thank you
there are also some small check valves at the firewall in the engine compartment on the passenger side that go bad. i talk about that at the beginning of the video, but don't show them. Those are the first things to check and the hoses that go to them, sometimes break.
Raul Romo alright cool I try that thank you, sometimes when the car is completely off no key in ignition locked doors, the air comes on by itself and drains my battery, any idea what that could be?
father estrada you could have a short somewhere. I would take it to an electrician
Raul Romo thank you!
It's a T6 2.8L
that T6 is a quick SOB for sure, put many a BMW to shame transmission is the major weak point on the model
Dude it’s tom hanks
😂
@@raiderman28 very helpful video btw I’m planning on buying an s90
that should say "then" not "when" you have a clogged system
no pressure build up there. i did all those test after i did all the work. i didn't realize that pressure could build up, till after i had fix the oil trap (since it was leaking), oil pan (since it was leaking). when i realize the cam seal was leaking i looked online and alot of people said it prob. blew because of pressure build up, and it all made sense. i had already done all kinds of repairs by then. it was probably clogged, it looked a bit bad at the oil trap. i cleaned it all out, replaced all that stuff, and did an oil change as recommended.
i think i am leaking oil from the torx bolts under the plastic head covers were the spark plugs are. i heard its a nightmare to seal thoughs, because if you take the bolts out, those bolts hold the cam in place, or something like that. i hate oil leaks.