The WS6 gets UMI Subframe Connectors/LCARB's, and Strut Tower Brace!
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- čas přidán 27. 07. 2018
- All of the parts in this video were purchased from UMI Suspension at www.umiperformance.com
Subframe Connectors: 2002-B
Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets: 2012-B
Strut Tower Brace: 2005-B
The video was filmed with a GoPro Hero 5 and a Sony A5000
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The car had the following modifications at the time of doing this:
Brian Tooley (BTR) Stage 4 Camshaft and supporting modifications, 10% Underdrive Pulley, Speed Engineering Longtube Headers into a Borla Catback. UMI Rear LCA's/PHB/LCARB's/SFC's and Bilstein B6 Pro Shocks. MGW short throw shifter, Tick Master Cylinder/Ram Slave Cylinder, Lightweight Flywheel and a Grip Force Stage 2 clutch.
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Thank you for watching!!! - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Man after watching the rest of your other videos you've come a long way from when you started with this car, awesome job my dude.
Its come a ways that's for sure. It needed some work when I got it.
Very informative. Especially for us wanna be enthused gear heads. Like the way you break it all down
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it. Hard to decide what's not enough detail and what's too much detail.
@@Greenlightfilming negative ghost rider. It works for those like myself who learn hands on while explaining. Ive seen many vids some are over exaggerated but for those whom are mechanically inclined they can fast forward lol.
Oh ok I hear you haha. I do try and be thorough when explaining things. Maybe you are right, and people that know it all already glaze over it. I really like the process though.
Beautiful car. I have a 2002 WS6 6speed Trans Am that is also pewter. Mine has 66,565 miles on it right now. It's got all the free mods, ported and polished maf and TB, SLP lid, the throttle stop mod, smooth bellows ( just for the nitrous nozzle), hooker ceramic coated long tubes, a TSP 3" catless y-pipe, a spintech 4" cat back exhaust that has no rasp and doesn't pop coming off a rev, I've got 17x9 front and 17x11 rear c4 ZR1 (black with machined lip) replicas with 275 cooper perfomance tires up front and 315 nt555 g2s on the rear (nt555r are a little narrower but way way better even in the rain). I also have spare rims for my M/T ET streets. I've got an adjustable panhard bar and solid tubular lower control arms with a t/a girdle on the rear diff. I'm also running a custom built nitrous system I put together with zex big full race solenoids (nitrous, fuel, and purge) a hurst push button pistol grip shifter, a custom WOT switch, bottle heater, pressure gauge, purge button and line lock are hidden in the ashtray. Only have 275$ including a new zex bottle in the entire nitrous kit. I jet it for a 125 or 150 shot. I'm sure I've forgotten some things but when I just had free mods, headers and the TSP y-pipe connected to the factory catback the car made 398rwhp@ 5500rpm and 419ftlbs at 4500rpm. It's a factory freak for sure. I ran 12.6s completely box stock with the same 275 cooper street tires on the rear that I have on the front on my first trip to Darlington dragway with the car. Mine is also a fully loaded black leather interior car so its times damn sure arent becausecits a low option light weight car. I love my T/A. It's making over 460rwhp now and it's still a great daily driver. I'm still on a 10 bolt but I have ran a 10.8@127mph once because it bogged off the line and pissed me off so I hit the button on the 150 shot. I usually dont spray until 2nd or 3rd gear depending on how much traction I feel like I have. I have warped the chassis a bit though.
Great looking car.
Awesome - Love this.
Nice job on the control bars 💪. Great video 👍 👍
Thanks! You didn't see all of the struggling and cursing off camera ;)
Looking good!!! I have the same sfc's and stb along with adjustable torque arm, lca's and panhard bar on my med patriot red 95 Z28. I didnt notice a change from the stb. I had mine chrome plated because I have lots of under hood bling. The combo of the sfc's, lca's and adjustable torque arm did make a big difference in the way it handles. I had my 4l60 auto rebuilt so it works real nicely with the UMI stuff on the car. 2nd gear chirp. 💪😊👍
God I love this car. The ta always looked amazing in silver with some chrome smoothie 2 wheels or some multi spoke European style wheel.
Thanks for checking it out! It's a sharp car for sure. Really nice in person.
Don't hate me but I'm considering buying a lighter wheel setup haha
I see this just after I got my 2000 Z28. Liked what I seen. But I went with UMI chrome moly suffrage connectors with the cross bars that bolt to the center also. I didn't get the noise you were getting. But I also did the other mods with panhard bar. Shocks and springs. No more going sides at 45 mph passing attempts. Nicely planted everywhere.
Awesome job thanks for the info. My 2001pontiac trans am needs all that and your guidance is well appreciated!
Thanks for watching! Glad you found it helpful. Appreciate the feedback.
you are so lucky to have that car a gen4th trans am
Man you definitely put out some awesome content! Started watching F body stuff because I (mopar guy) have the chance to buy a very low mileage 1 owner (71 year old lady) 02 t top 6 speed black Z28. With the car was a ws6 but I’m not complaining!
This is great vid , I want to install a set of the bolt on subs for my 95 z28. I had a set of weld ins on a 93 z28 an that was a full blown track car so I wasn’t sure how much a difference they made considering all the other modifications it had. I love UMI products I have the rear lca an an the on car adjustable pan hard bar. Made the rear feel an stick so much better
Nice video man the car still looks and sounds great.
THATGOTTKID thanks bud. Slowly but surely getting it dialed in! It needed a little love by the time I got it haha
That's sad to here it was perfect when I had it.... I'm glad you're treating it right
That is a great looking WS6. Good job fixing everything and returning it to prime condition. I know that is a satisfying feeling to fix a lot of stuff like the water pump, A/C, PS, yourself. Sub'd. Good luck with your channel. :)
Thanks for subbing! I really appreciate it. The payoff from doing everything DIY on your channel is really a good feeling. I bet that's why a lot of guys (and girls) get hooked on it.
Subframes connector's are the best thing that came out for f Body's... Nice info on the cutting of the end piece of old piece for the rear subframe mounts... The only thing I would be paranoid of is a deer or some animal darting across that road you were on. Keep up the great video on your ws6 cause it helps me with my 94 trans am...
Agreed. Its always a risk you run when you are driving in rural areas haha. Luckily the odds of hitting one are pretty slim
Now that was a creative way to center the rear end with that Mickey mouse Jack when doing this install by yourself.. Niceeeeeeee trick!!
Good looking car. Looking at getting sub frames on my Camaro. I have a super budget build so I'm probably going to get weld in to save money plus get the added strength.
I highly recommend them. Looking back I would actually go the weld in route.
cant wait to do these mods on my z28 already have some of the parts but at the moment no time to install
I welded mine on Spohn performance
Tubular A arms / cross member torsion arm 9 inch ford rear and a built 408 by Jensen Engine Technology 650 hp on the dyno
That's awesome! You've got one serious car by the sounds of it haha. I watched the video of your car doing a burnout on your channel. It sounds pretty nasty. Post more videos!
Good video, keep them coming!
Travis Bledsoe hey, thank you!! It's always nice hearing people like them. Thanks for checking them out.
GreenLightFilming I have a 98 WS6, i just did BMR springs, Koni STR.T shocks, and a panhard bar, looking to do subframe connectors and LCAs next
Travis Bledsoe good deal. I bought this car with the Roto-joints on each side of the lower control arms. Really want to replace them with poly on one end and Roto on the other. They sure are noisy, even after driving it more. It's like 85% quieter than in the video but still lol.
GreenLightFilming lol yea def going with poly on everything in my car
Travis Bledsoe that's the way to do it lol. Totally worth it on a 99.99% street car.
UMI packs so well, the packing material for my sway bar package probably weighed more than the sway bar itself
No doubt man haha. I was really surprised at how much work it took to just unpack it all
I think it was a great idea that you put in the bolt in subframe connectors they could go jump in the lake I mean that's actually sounding like a really great idea to keep everything to where you can take it off and bring it back to stock that is just thinking ahead so if anybody doesn't like it they don't even have to watch your videos I think the car is beautiful and it's on its way personally I've always loved them since 98 ever since I saw the one commercial where a WS6 was at the stoplight revving next to another car I forgot what exactly and then it just showed the front snorkels and then it belched the license plate to the other car next to it I love those cars I hope to get one one day either that car or a 2003-2004 Terminator cobra it's quite a big difference obviously GM or Ford but I don't really care I'm the one who wants the cars and Will be driving them so I'm not the type of guy who is only ford or only GM I know where there's power and I respect all manufacturers
That's the right attitude to have about it all. Each manufacturer has had great cars and bad cars lol. Each one has their up sides and down sides too. I would personally love to have an 03/04 Terminator Cobra. The driveline in those is bad ass to say the least. Plus they look good (IMO) lol.
I just found your channel. I LOVE it dude. I'm currently saving up to get a WS6. Hopefully this summer I'll be able to swing it for my 30th birthday, as a present to myself. Haha! I'm also saving up for a wedding, and the finacè would be a little mad if I bought a toy right now. lol Love the car, love the channel. You need more views! Great production, and information.
Wow thank you! That was all great to hear regarding the channel. What year/transmission are you shopping for? Good call on waiting while planning the wedding haha! Hope you get into your car soon. They are a lot of fun.
@@Greenlightfilming You're welcome! I am looking to get any year, preferably a 2000 or newer. But I'm not picky, something with moderately low mileage and in great shape. I grew up with TA's, and I miss them! lol.
That all sounds pretty attainable. When you find a CLEAN car with decent mileage, they cost a little bit but are still relatively affordable. I think the WS6 cars in particular will hold their value pretty well, as they are always sought after.
I just bought UMI 2002-B subframe connectors for my '97 SS, and stumbled onto your video. I noticed the MN plate on the car, and then surfed to more of your videos, since I live in St Paul. You bought a race track?!? After I install my subframe connectors and front brake upgrade (Corvette C7), I want to track this car, and your little facility seems perfect! Invite me some time!
For sure! Check out Black River Motorsports Park on FB for a schedule of events.
That noise would drive me nuts,lol.Time to get bigger Strano hollow sway bars and master cylinder brace
jaime dude I was annoyed AF when I first started driving it haha. For real though, by the time I got home it was like 85% quieter. Might have to get some control arms with poly bushings on one side....
Looks great. Great video, how low is the drop on the car? And are those 11inch wheels in the rear?
I am wanting to do this to on my camaro as well with koni street Shocks front and back with umi springs and the subframe connectors now watching your video I’m scared to do anything to my car couse I don’t want no squeaks in the wheel or the back of the car . Unless you know what the problem is to fix that yet ?
Watch the orientation of the heim joints. That's where the creeking was coming from in my opinion.
You mentioned your rear tires could you tell us the size and rim with and back spacing, it looks lice a nice fit. Also can you weld in your subframes if you need to.
how would you go about jacking up the car (for like tire rotations and such) after installation? Would the subframe connectors get in the way? Great video, been looking to get some subframe connectors for my car, already have the strut tower brace.
Hey there, I just have a few questions for you.
Did you ever sort out that creaking sound? And what exactly was it?
Those frame connectors, can you weld in the bolt in ones? Once they are bolted down? And when they weld them is it welded at the front only? Or both ends of the connector? And should you do a alignment after installing everything in the rear end. Thanx for the info bud.
Hey, the squeaking seems to have mostly sorted itself out after some miles. I believe you can weld in the "bolt in" connectors. The shape on each end should be the same for welding surface area.
You would weld in both ends.
the rod end lac will make noise as they are a race application. same on my SCCA camaro noisy as hell but will lift a tire in a turn
I'm still considering installing new LCA's with a poly bushing on the body side, and a roto joint on the rear end side for this reason.
Just an observation, It looks like the sway bar end link bolts are on upside down. Not a biggie, but if something snags on it and bends the bolt, they will be hell getting them off later.
Got the same wheels on my 99 Camaro.
I did the exact same set up. And it makes a huge difference. I love your car. Rite now I'm trying to figure out where I can find a wonder bar for this model
They don't make wonder bars for the 4th gen F-Bodies. Third gens only.
That car would be my baby for life =) .... My dream car .
It's a dream car of mine for sure. Never thought I'd own a WS6
How do you feel about Spohn products? Years ago I changed out all my front arms with Spohn components and I’m not sure if I satisfied with there stuff. First, you can’t tighter the joints without that’s the parts off which means you’d have to get a front end alignment done. I feel like I need to take my parts off and tighten the joints up...
I actually have no experience with their parts firsthand lol! Sorry
Hey Bro I noticed the trans am is lowered and u have no bump stops. Does the rear fender hit the rear tires when u launch? If not what did u do to keep this from happening?
Im so glad those wheels arnt on it anymore lol
Good to see people use umi stuff instead of bmr.
Nothing wrong with BMR. I've just been a lifelong fan of UMI's stuff. They make a solid product, and support a lot of racers.
@@Greenlightfilming well I won't put all of my business out there for the whole world to know but I will say this, the guys at UMI... when my house burned down and I lost everything! Let's just say, they made sure my wife and I was taken care of!
Good video thanks, buy urself a smooth intake bellows and make some 2x4 wheel cribs, mine are 14" and work amazing, and for the squeeking i sprayed fluid film where the subframes sit on the body to remove the dry creeking
so your SFC's squeak like that? It's godawful annoying man. Making me consider just welding them in. I've done it before and will do it again lol. I just want everything to be "reversible" on the car, you know?
GreenLightFilming i wont weld subframes on my car because it burns off factory baked on body paint and can cause rust, bolt ins are fine, take them off, slap grease or something on the body where they touch and reinstall, tighten them up more than factory spec, or mabe even back the bolts off slightly less than spec, what you are hearing is the SFC rubbing when flexing
@@1991tommygun So you are of similar mind to me on not wanting to weld them on huh lol. You're totally right about it possibly causing rust. Maybe it won't? Idk. I don't want them bad enough to chance it.
Good idea on putting a little grease on them where they contact the body. I'd really like to revisit the instal and use some more substantial hardware so I can put better clamping force on everything.
GreenLightFilming yes just give the grease a try, im sure wheel bearing grease would be best, let me know how it goes if you remember
Will do, I've got it on my mental list of things to do to the car. I'll do some more research and see what else people have come up with for the issue. It's really annoying.
If you don’t want to weld in the sfc’s I’d be one to also think you wouldn’t want to be cutting those brackets in the rear for the relocation kit.
I’ve got a hugger orange ss so I feel your pain on thinking one day there may be value in these cars. But in the end I love my almost 20 year old car and don’t think I’ll ever sell it anyway.
mcfero1 that's a good way to put it haha. I suppose I held welding to the body as a bigger deal in my head than cutting a tab off of the rear end. Idk.
I do have to figure out what that creaking/groaning is though. That sound is awful.
I went a weird route and welded in some mwc subframe connectors and bent the tabs out the way instead of cutting them off🤣
Did you have the rear end realigned? It sounds like you put it out of alignment when you moved the left one eight of an inch.
@GreenLightFilming. - Placing the car so that it sits on it's suspension, is that a requirement for the SFC's or the LCA relocation brackets installation?
That is an installation requirement for the SFC's. The idea being that the chassis and suspension are loaded as they would be when the car is on the ground.
@@Greenlightfilming thanks - I've been thinking about getting some weld ins for my 98 Formula for quite a while now. There are two things that are making me hold back: 1. Shipping them to where I live and 2. Finding someone who will weld them in PROPERLY. Thanks for the info.
Strut tower brace is a Monte Carlo brace? Bolt on is always better than weld on. I have one of the 41 WS6 convertibles made in 1996 and 1997. The rarest of rare. I'd never weld anything on my ride. I have every part I replaced boxed and labeled, though I plan to die and be buried in this car. Even the LT-1 with less than 40k miles is in storage. Now it has an LS7 427 though an automatic.
I think they called it a "monte carlo bar" back in the day. I get what you mean about being dead and buried in the car! I cant bring myself to cut this one up yet haha. It's too nice. Should really find a beater TA and make it a turbo car.
Would you do it again? Thinking of taking advantage of the Labor Day sale...
We’re you able to sort the noise this spring?
Yes, I would absolutely do it again. Upgrading the rear suspension is a great thing to do on these cars.
Did u ever get rid of the creaking? If so, How'd u do it? Im about to install bolt in subframe connectors and rear control arms this spring, so want to avoid this noise if possible. Love the ws6! Mine is a 1998 trans am ws6 " clone". We all know only the hood/exhaust is the only real difference tho. 👍😂
I haven't monkeyed with it yet actually. I was told the mounting hardware wasn't "tight enough" by another commenter on the video, but i'm not too sure that that's the case. I believe it's creaking where it mounts the the rear subframe... The kit didn't include washers for installation, and the ones I had one hand weren't "hard enough" apparently as the nut started to eat it's way right through the hole before reaching the proper torque spec.
It needs some attention still lol...
As far as the "clones" go, I think all that was different was the hood, badging and shocks/sway bars lol. Nothing major.
thanks for the info. I just bought a 2002 anniversary coupe (yellow) with only 27k on it. Im so excited. im not sure what to do first to it.
Get yourself an intake Lid! SLP is a very popular option. If you can find a used one, that's even better! Is it a manual or an automatic car?
@@Greenlightfilming it does have a ram air hood already, it is a manual.
“It has a ram air hood on it already” 🤦🏻♂️
@@jimmybartels true. I guess mine didn't have the functional side of the ram air installed. Just a lid like any other f body...
its a manual. I already ordered a Hurst short throw and kooks long tube headers. it already has a SLP exhaust.
I'm getting ready to do the exact same upgrades to my z28. Did the creaking ever go away completely? I'm glad it went away as you drove it but was was the final result a year later?
Unfortunately I haven't been able to drive it because it's winter where I live. The creaking didn't go away last time though. It's quieter for sure but still annoying.
@@Greenlightfilming That would drive me up the wall. I want to do full suspension on mine, and have the car corner and handle. I really want to get the arm off the back of the transmission, and mount it on the tunnel, cause it already broke the transmission once in stock form. Theres gotta be a quiet solution that does both. Any ideas/thoughts?
Yeah it's not ideal haha. There has to be something I can do about it. Unfortunately, I haven't spent any time in the garage working on the car and I absolutely can't drive it this time of year so it'll just sit.
As far as the torque arm options go I'm right there with you. I've always heard the tunnel mounted option is noisier, but I'll check out the link you sent. Maybe there's a good solution out there for it.
Hey there, I just bought one of these gen 4 trans am’s and trying to figure some stuff out. I’m in Canada. Just a question about the headlights. When I start the car both headlights pop up and are on, even with the headlight switch in the off position!! Is this normal for Canadian cars? And my left light turns on but does not move up or down. No grinding noise. Just dead, with the light shining. Any suggestions where to start looking. Thanx for your time. 👍
I would imagine that your one headlight hear is stripped out and you probably need a new headlight motor. It's a super common issue on these cars.
What are you running for back spacing to fit that size of tires front and back?
I would have to check. I bought the car with these wheels and tires on it.
Remove those brake rotor stud washers. They can make a vibration with aftermarket wheels
I haven't heard of this. I will have to look into it, I guess I haven't noticed a vibration.
Will be ordering subframe connectors bolt on’s give the same or close support as the weld in? Did you feel a major difference?
Well, I dont have a quantifiable way to say whether or not they work as well as weld in products. I've had both types on an F-Body and what I will say, is that if I do it again I'll weld them in.
The bolt on UMI products fit very snug, but cant possibly be as tight as a welded in version. It's just the reality of the way they are mated to the chassis of the vehicle.
Thanks for the reply man love the channel and the TA
Nice vid man, beautiful car!🤙
what wheels are on it?
They are American Racing wheels. Thanks for checking the video out! Glad you liked it.
GreenLightFilming I’m buying the same wheels but I have to get 1 inch adapter spacers did you use spacers?
Forgive my ignorance, but how is the rear suspension loaded with the jack stands under the rear frame rail and tires hanging? I want to install these by driving up on ramps, and jacking up the rear. Then supporting the car with jack stands. Is that possible
In that instance, it would not be "loaded". I'm not sure what point in the video you are referring to, but you'll have to let the axle "droop" to get things installed. They way you are wanting to do it is 100% possible, yes.
How did you tuck your exhaust up that high? I'm lowering mine and the y pipe will be like an inch off the ground
Are you running Longtubes and a y-pipe or true duals? These cars have really limited space for exhaust routing (as you know). It takes a good fitting system and some monkeying to get it tucked lol.
@@Greenlightfilming mine has long tubes and y pipe. Its 3 inch all the back. Also too, I cant tell if you have an adjustable torque arm. Is it completely necessary to have? I bought all non adjustable suspension when I bought the car 4 years ago, but I'm lowering it come spring. Beautiful car btw
@@scotty_lsx my torque arm is not adjustable, in fact it's the factory stamped steel part. If you lower the car, it's not a bad idea to but a tubular adjustable piece. That will be one of the next things I will do for the car after this weekend's mods that's for sure!
You stated 315 rear tires, but what size rim & did you have to mod anything to make that girth fit in there 🤔
What did you think about the relocation brackets? Less wheel spin launching?
They are more so meant to mitigate wheel hop than to create more "traction". When you lower a car, the lower control arms angle is no longer parallel to the ground. The LCARB's are installed to correct the issue.
@@Greenlightfilming my 97 ss is lowered on koni str.t shocks & strano springs. Installed the relocation brackets along with the umi control arms , no wheel hop just a lot of spinning off the line. Hopefully it helps . Snow ❄ everywhere so need to wait a few months for testing
What kind of rims are those? And do you know where I can get them ? Thanks!
They are American Racing rims. I'd imagine you can get them on most websites.
Did you ever get rid of the noise?
Negative. That's one of the first things I'm doing this spring.
How much of a difference did the subframe connectors make
The difference was noticeable but not as dramatic as when I installed weld in SFCs on a third gen camaro I had. Bolt on might not be the "best" way to do it after doing both ways.
GreenLightFilming thanks I think I’ll get the 3 point UMI connectors
Are those style lower control arms noisy?
You may notice some more noise from the helical/polyurethane ends compared to factory rubber bushings.
These are more rigid that the stamped pieces as well. Itll all translate to road noise. Not bad though.
What bolts did u use for the front on the connector
The supplied hardware from UMI
My bad...i meant to ask what bolt size did u use in the front...mines didn't come with any
Did you ever figure out what caused the creeking noise?
I think it was the lower control arms. The new Z28 I have makes the same creaking noise and it also has aftermarket LCA's.
Nice video! Love the wheels! If you could email me what brand rims and tires. Dimensions on size rims height,width,back spacing.
Patrickmdillon@yahoo.com
I will get to it next time I'm out in the shop. Wish I saw this last night haha!
GreenLightFilming okay thank you
Yes Can u send me the specs too?
Hey I’d like to get in contact with you I have some questions!
seabass shoot! What do you want to know
How did you get the rear control arm bolt holes to line up. Mine won’t line up
It can be quite the battle trying to align the rear end with the LCA's. I ended up using pry bars and a little screw jack to align everything.
GreenLightFilming thanks. I just finished putting them in. About to drive it!!!
@@pontiacmaniac7772 good deal! You must have wrestled them into the car then haha
GreenLightFilming yeah I had to make them fit. I moved the rear axel back with a 2x4 wedged in the wheel well so the control arm lined up. But now that I got the connectors on, my car isn’t running right. It’s always something.
@@pontiacmaniac7772 I did the same thing with the screw jack on my car. Had to force the axle rearward to get it all lined up lol. Sorry about your car. Like you said, it's always something.
Love the videos. Sexy car
Thanks bud. It's a really good looking car. The 98-02 WS6 cars really stand up to the test of time.
Would you say that the rlcarb are worth it
I have a 88 GTA trans am
If the car is stock height, no. They are used to compensate for lowering the car. The idea is to keep the LAB's parallel with the ground when the car is sitting.
@@Greenlightfilming my cars lowered 1 inch
And I just read alot of stuff about how they increase your 60 foot at the 1/4 mile drag strip
I was just curious if you ever tested it before and after
@@benkalinowski5834 nope, I haven't personally tested them before and after. If you car is lowered I would recommend them them for sure. If you get a better 60' put of adding them I would think it's because the lower control arms are at the proper angle again.
@@Greenlightfilming ok thrm ty
I like the trans am stuff
I think I'm gonna get a set
@@benkalinowski5834 good deal. You'll be glad you got them if you drive the car hard being lowered. They are inexpensive enough that they are really worth it
Next project, replace the Frankenstein mid pipe.
...You lost me haha. What do you mean?
GreenLightFilming Oh, that mid pipe looked like it’s put together out of like 4 pieces all held with huge muffler clamps. Looks like Frankenstein. Lol.
@@sucapizda Oh haha! You are probably right unfortunately. I haven't even noticed that yet if I'm totally honest.... The last couple of owners didn't care for the car very well. I'm slowly sorting things out, and exhaust is on the list.
Awesome car. I have one of the same year :). Unfortunately I can’t get iac valve to cooperate with me.
If it's causing issues and you know it is, I would just replace the IAC Valve.
GreenLightFilming the iac will work until car is warm usually. Then pcm will try to command 0 steps but iac won’t close. In fact it will open all the way up and create a super high idle around 2800 rpm. I think my iac driver is going bad in pcm or I’ve corrupted my pcm somehow making so many adjustments to the throttle cracker table.
"coming down from 100 mph." Little fast there bud
Cool stuff. I think you’re inspiring me to make a foolish purchase! 2002 WS6 vert.
Keep it up.
Please stop handing your camera while talking. The distortion/static noise interrupts your dialog a good bit. Moving the camera without a gimbal, and narrating at the same time, is a no-go.
I would have fixed the brakes first. It looks like someone was beating on that rotor with a hammer.
why UMI??
I've bought from them over the years. The product quality is great, customer service is good and I'm a happy customer all told.
And Corvette brakes 😂
Those brakes are a solid upgrade on these cars.
There’s no way that noise is normal 👀
No, it definitely isn't haha
Also that squeak is cause its not tight enough
Man, I tightened the SFC's down to the correct torque spec. The supplied nut was starting to eat through the washer if that makes sense.
Upss man take out stuping music ok