BMW N47 Timing Chain Replacement | Part 2
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- čas přidán 19. 12. 2019
- The next part of replacing the timing chain on the BMW N47 engine which includes installing the new timing chain kit and starting to rebuild the engine back up.
Timing Chain Replacement PART 1: bit.ly/367skYd
Timing Chain Replacement PART 3: bit.ly/2taCGI8
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BMW N47 Timing Chain Kit: ebay.us/WjwhiS
BMW N47 Timing Tool Kit: amzn.to/3uKX9AI
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BMW N47 Timing Chain Kit: ebay.us/WjwhiS
BMW N47 Timing Tool Kit: amzn.to/3uKX9AI
Gaffa did u change the rear oil seal?
Cracking video series on this engine George
Awesome video and a pretty detailed explanation of the process.
Great work on this two part series. Nice clear and to the point details and editing. 👍
Much appreciated!
Good info. Thank you.
thank you very much , good explanation
Hi Great Video very helpful! Just one question if you don't mind... What torque do you tighten the upper chain tensioner to?
Hey! Does This KIT fix the problem of timing chain stretch? Or can the rattle become a problem again after some time?
Don't even own a BMW but this is the best engine guide I've seen...
Thanks bro
Great video George!!!!
Cheers Rob
Is the oil pump sprocket bolt torque to yield? I ask given the 5Nm + 90 degrees. Need to know whether to replace.
Thanks for the vid, what is the torque spec for the upper chain tensioner bolt please?
Great video George ! What is your opinion on Febi Bilstein Kits? Thank you.🙏🏻
Are the torque settings the same for n57d30a as well as n47?
Great job!
I have a question for you: when fitting the new chains Is the chain supposed to have more slack on the tensioner side or the non-tensioner side? or is it supposed to leave an even gap between both sides?
Hi George, nice videos first of all.
I have a question regarding the oil pump sprocket because I am missing something. What do you mean when you say torque to 5 Nm plus 90 degrees?
Do you rotate the sprocket (anticlockwise?) 90 degrees after 5 Nm torque have been applied?
Thank you!
Hi, which is cyl number 1 when finding TDC? Thanks
Here is the complete timing chain replacement guide:
Timing Chain Replacement PART 1: bit.ly/367skYd
Timing Chain Replacement PART 2: bit.ly/368aILQ
Timing Chain Replacement PART 3: bit.ly/2taCGI8
Great job, really impressed. Can you please give me advice which timming chain is the best ? In Serbia most services are usuggesting Febi Bilstein timming chains
I have a 2015 BMW 328d with 136,000 miles. No issues as of yet but starting to wonder if I should have this done. Thoughts on this model and year?
Did you have any trouble getting the timing chain cover on with the crankshaft oil seal in place?
Can this be done as a DIY on my own car?
Your crankshaft 45 before tdc, but your hi fuel pump mark is exacly where she should be. How is it? You crankshaft back to tdc and you hi fuel pump been not excatly where she must be. Can explain?
George Austers the bearing in 8:23 did you replace new? or did u use the old simring? Because mine is today at workshop and the kit bought from FAI, everything worked but mechanic said the bearing in 8:23 simring is to big. How did u put that back into the metal block? By hammer? I dont know why my mechanic says its to big...
i have the C type of N47 and the kit i bought should be fitted.
Nice job I’m going to do mine
Should I pay autohaus in Coventry £1500 to upgrade mine for piece of mind in your opinion?
Hi George,
Great vids, I have been gong through them as I have a N47 which I bought in bits, long story!
Can I ask, the 45 turn to after TDC. I have on some sites that the dowel is in the lower hole of the tool.
Could you clarify this for me please.
Also once this is at 45 ATDC is that when the timing mark on the pump is in line? If so is the crank rotated back to TDC for the fitting of the top chain?
I hope to get advice from you in this.
Kris
I just lost all oil pressure om my N57D30B engine? Only 45k miles on engine.
Oil pump failure?
Just pul down the oil pan, an put in a new oil pump?
Hello, how to put the key on for the crankshaft correctly, there are two holes, you put it in the first one and I saw a video where they put it in the second one.
Isn't it 10Nm for the oil sump bolts? and 25Nm for the oil drain plug.
And is the the torque for the starter 19Nm?
Thanks George, I was able to replace my timing chain, best guide out there!
So u cannot change sprocket at the end of crankshaft? One of the most important parts. Was there wear on that? How many km driven?
Mate absolutely love your videos can't thank you enough for you attention to detail. Recently bought an e60 520d and I'm about to embark on doing a full overhaul on the engine thanks to your uploads. Just wondering what you used to seal your oil pan?
Cheers mate. No sealant, just the sump gasket👍🏻
@@GeorgeAustersappreciate the reply mate, great good to know as I'm pretty sure I've got a heavy leak from the sump which has started the whole idea of a full overhaul 👍
I drive a BMW 520D diesel engine car reg 2008. I recently had my clutch kit and DMS replaced. Not long after i started seeing oil leak. upon troubleshooting we found out my rear main oil seal is leaking. I wonder if i have case with the garage who did my DMS job if they should have replaced this seal while they were there already. Anybody could advise please
Hi George, I have managed to do almost everything. just one more question, how to you check your timing is correctly step up ? I don't have the special tool to lock the crankshaft. The rest 2 sprockets has marker when I can follow. but the 45 degree at crankshaft atdc is very comfusing. I did buy the £20 timing tool for N47
You need the full proper kit ideally mate
i have owned a few older BMW cars no problems i now have one of these bloody things, wish i had known before i bought it. but i promised it that if the chain snaps its going straight to the crusher. auto box or engine failure in any car i own is a case for the scrap yard
Can i uppgrade my tensioner to the upgraded version as a preventative maintanance? Or Will it cause damage? I have the 27mm socket right now, so i have to old design. New has the 24mm head socket as in your video and is 10mm longer
Maybe I’m a bit late, but yes you can do it
Great video! Thank you! At 3:23. Why do you have to move to 45 degrees after TDC when putting on the oil pump sprocket?
You just do
Smart design, let"s put timing chain in the rear part of the engine.
With you 100% there mate, what a clusterfuck. If on the other hand you'd care to enjoy the joy of this design, or perhaps worse, in duplicate form, check and see how they made an Audi V8 motor in the RS4 and utterly slash it's second hand resale values to anyone smart enough to do their homework before buying one.... And yes - the final view is from the flywheel end... czcams.com/video/MyGxSNDFK-s/video.html
Yeah better than v belt ??
Not great but better than the ecoboost wet belt..
thank you .
Where do you guys find all correct torque specs?
Perfect job!!!! Just 2 small moments missing - sealing cover to cylinder head and remind about Crankshaft Position sensor plate to fit before You put flywheel on last time. For first time doing this job is good to know :)
Janis can you explain more about the crankshaft position sensor plate fitting and cylinder head sealing cover?
@@HypoxicWaiter About sensor plate- it is very important to put in before last time fit a flywheel- first time doing this job I found plate on tool box when engine was in the car :( and head gasket and cover must be perfect degreased and good gasket maker must be used there, because always is risk of oil leak between head and cover. I found best gasket maker- Permatex blue. Best for sumps and timing chain covers
George just a quick question please replacing the oil dipstick tube does the o ring at the sump end sit on top or does it push inside a little with a bit of a push
Thanks pal
From memory is pushes inside but I think it was tight
Hi George, Great Vid! I need to do mine as timing chain snapped aswell as any rebuilds to the engine. Where did you get the info for torque setting etc? is there a BMW book or guide with table online?
You can use ISTA to find all the torque specs
@@GeorgeAusters Thanks! Is this readily available online? Or is that the £30 access from the bmw TIS replacement site?
Jobs like the Cam pulley and drive belt, in fact the whole timing chain process too; do you think access will be harder in a 1series 120D? Thank you
Timing chain process is the same if you’re taking engine out. For crank pulley and drive belt kit you may need to remove radiator fan as engine bay is smaller on 1 series
Timing chain process is the same if you’re taking engine out. For crank pulley and drive belt kit you may need to remove radiator fan as engine bay is smaller on 1 series
@@GeorgeAusters cheers, very much appreciated.
please place of shoping pieces
So you have to time the engine, then move it to put the locking tool on? That’s crazy, why didn’t they just make the locking tool to lock the engine in time?
Does anyone know if the guide rail on the crank to fuel pump should have movement even after being tightened?? Like in and out not up and down.
Mine does, having just installed a new kit. I think its because the bolt doesn't have a head so to speak.
How these guides doesn't wear out? What material they are made of?
ho long did that take , from start to finish , great video , very clear.
It took me 3 and a bit days, Solo tho. And I have a 120d though so much tighter trying to get the bell housing bolts off.
Hi George, do you remember how much torque you used to tighten up the upper chain tensioner?
Bit late, but it should be 70Nm
Hi the George hope u well do you reckon the top tensioner can be replaced without dismantling engine chain i have a cold start rattle the last 2 seconds i think its one of the tensioner that takes longer to fill up with oil. only on cold starts otherwise drives perfect no other funny noises very quite engine
Yes you can but I wouldnt bother. Just do the entire timing chain kit
@@GeorgeAusters Thanks for your response George I actually ordered it after contacting u today. It's cost £52 and going to give it a go as am planning to sell it I looked at your video today and did some research on the issue I have and come across a forum were a person experienced exact same problem only slight rattle on startup. And he explained he booked into dealers and there technicians said it's due to long service intervals and that the top tensioner can wear our and spring loosen and and taps on cold start as it's drained out oil until full of oil again. The new tensioner is a revised version. My engine is just hit 60k in great condition rarely drive it am a Builder just haven't got much time to change it myself am confident I can do it watching your videos I've replaced a chain on a Audi before but just time and family time. Let see how it goes will update otherwise will have to do something over a course of lots of weekends 🙊
@@GeorgeAusters George replaced the tensioner today seems like it resolved the rattle on startup. The old tensioner was very loose and was not attached anymore come out in 4 pieces the piston or Shaft spring and another thing shaft I believe is to draw oil into tensioner whatever u call it was detached spring etc top face of piston was scored from the guides from rattle for the past year I think If left longer would had been a bigger problem. New one looked slightly different. Not rattled since change.
Question regarding the timing process. Once the chain is fitted 45 degrees off tdc and put the cam pulley on etc with the bolts loose, surely you have to take the cam pulley back off when you move the crankshaft back to the tdc position?
I know I’m a-year-late for this comment but I think you don’t have to remove the camshaft sprocket while moving the crankshaft back to TDC since you can see the sprocket can actually move without messing with the camshaft (camshafts are locked by special tools anyway), but I was wondering what if marking the camshaft sprocket where the three bolts was before remove it at the beginning will help?
I am going to do my chain this week, I was wondering the same thing, does any know for sure if there bolts can be left loose in the cam sprocket while the crank is rotated back to tdc. looks this way in the video. but its just not clear enough
@@charliekarting3401 did you do the timing chain? Got to this point exactly where cam sprocket needs to go back 45 to TDC. Thanks!
@@nathancracknell6169 Hi, I think you can leave them in if I remember correctly, also the cam sprocket sits on a decent lip on the end of the cam so the sprocket naturally wants to stay on. Hope it goes well
@@charliekarting3401 Thanks for the reply! ive just done it, just about to turn it over 4 times and check the marks still line up!
Hello George! I'm currently planning to swap the FAI timing chain kit in my N47 also. Is yours still running strong after couple of years if you still have it? Also did you put the old oil pump gear back on it or did you buy new one?
I swapped over everything that comes with the kit in the description and yes still running fine!
@@GeorgeAusters Thanks for the fast reply! Love all of your videos. Your channels N47 section will be put to good use when im doing improvements on mine :). One additional question, why the crank has to be rotated to 45 degrees atdc? Does the camshaft locking tool fit in place only then
Interesting video, is there a specific timing procedure for the HP pump??
Yes there is timing marks on it👍🏻
@@GeorgeAusters That's it? Just line the marks up??
Also George, I bought the FAI kit from you link as my has N47D20 engine too. However my new oil noozle in the kit has bigger head compare with old now? unable it exchange it. do you have similar situation ? or it's normal the head is bigger on the new oil noozle
Which year is your N47?
@@GeorgeAusters 2010
Did you put the old oil squirter back in? Got the same issue :)
U forgot the rear crankshaft seal 😂😂Haha
Definitely didn’t haha
2:57 Is this new FAI tensioner necessary to modify the screw thread to a longer length? [FAI TCK133C]
hi , he is using the uprated tensioner, it has a 24mm head , the old one was 27mm, and I changed my tensioner for the new one and just screwed it in, was fine no problems.
I suppose there is no need to change the engine oil/filters when replacing the chain?
Watch part 3👍🏻
Does all this also apply to the N47TU engine as well?
Yes
Can you just do the top chain? I see some place just do the top chain and leave the other 2 while other places change all 3 ?
No, I’d never do all this work just to replace one chain😅
Bit of detail missed out here. Didn't show putting the crank back to TDC after removing that tool?
What timing chain kit is the best in the uk for N47 engine?can anyone help?thanks
amzn.to/39gvrha
Hi George, cracking video, just one question, how accurately does the hi pressure pump marking have to line up with the lug on the engine, mine seems to be a few milimeters higher the lug but of I were to move the gear down a tooth it would be even worse, thats with the crankshaft locking tool in place by the way before any one asks lol.
Can send a pic if you want but not sure how.
Thanks for any help you may be able to give, cheers, Chris.
No that's bang on, it doesn't actually line up exactly.
@@GeorgeAusters
Thank you very much, now I will be able to sleep tonight.
You have given me that extra bit of info that auto data couldn’t, top man thanks again, Chris.
@@chrsrans1 No problem Chris, appreciate you watching!
@@GeorgeAusters one last question George, if my eyes didn’t deceive me I noticed that the dowel guides for your timing cover were missing from the engine , just wondered if you removed them yourself and did you put any back in.
,kind regards, Chris.
Common rail pumps generally are not timing critical.
When using a torque wrench, the first click is enough, making the wrench click more times will over tighten the bolts. Saw you click 2 times and more, and that could make the torque tentionon the bolt much higher than the recomended setting 🤷🏼♂️ seen most of your videos, and good work on you. Got the same model as you myself, and doing the maintence myself.
Lol clicking it more than once is some kind of OCD. I always do it too :)
A well calibrated torque wrench will click at the same torque everytime.
I'm pretty sure that you WON't be overtightening by adding more clicks. The idea of the torque wrench is that you can't go over the torque setting selected. However, I'm pretty sure that if you're using the torque wrench whilst the engine is suspended then you won't be getting the correct torque as the engine is moving slightly every time you attempt to tighten. This will under-tighten the bolts. The engine needs to be resting on a solid surface whilst using the torque wrench.
Does the fuel injectors have to come of for this project?
what's the torque for the upper tensioner ? thanks
Pretty sure I say in the video
sorry, I need one piece of information, how many kilos does the upper chain tensioner tighten, how many newtons?
thank you for your heart, but you didn't answer me anything... you didn't mention that in the video
What about high oil level in dashboard?? I see some leaks on the strarter motor i don’t know where is leaking but what is strange is that is leaking but the level is high!!! I checked the dipstick and is above max , the level of the cooling water seems to be about the same i think (i am not sure how it was before,but now is at minimum ) so i need some help guys 🙂
No my oil level is at minimum on the dipstick but on the dashboard is at max ,i think i ‘ll have to replace both the oil sensor and oil pan gasket 👍
Did the FAI chain kit last?? Just used the same kit. Some one had it failing in just 10K.
Yes fine.. The chains are genuine IWIS ones used from factory
BMW specialist garage fitted an FAI kit to my 116d last year. It failed after 13k miles. Fuel pump chain had snapped. Since the start of this year, the garage now only use genuine BMW chains as they have heard from other independents that there is a problem with FAI chains. I’ve just started replacing the chains on my 318d but opted to spend >£500 on genuine BMW chains. There must be a problem with FAI as the garage didn’t charge me a penny to fix the problem with the 116d, and have now fitted genuine BMW parts at considerable expense@@GeorgeAusters
would you recommend these FAI chain kits george, How has yours held up since completing the job 4 years ago ?, By looking at the companys that do this job they all say stay away from any other kits other than the IWIS Tritan coated chain kits
These are IWIS chains
@@GeorgeAusters are they iwis guides too ?
@@cjfordd I believe so yes
looking to buy a newer n47 ( 184hp 2010 e91 320d ) soon and hope that I will not ahve this problem :D
🔥
Isn't it necessary to reset the clutch pressure plate before reinstalling?
It’s self adjusting
When rotating the engine twice, how will I know everything is running in time?
You won’t have any resistance. I.e the valves hitting the pistons 😁
Do the lci 5 series still need replacing ? I know ours has never been changed but in Portsmouth I am getting prices of over 3000 pounds
All N47 engines are affected but like I said in my recent video; regular oil changes are key to prolonging the life.
@@GeorgeAusters But there is a huge difference between the old N47A engines and the newer N47D20C engines. If you have the old version there is almost a 100% guarantee you will get problems. These newers engines are much more reliable with chain updates and stuff
@@wesley8096 It's true that the N47D20C engine (post-march 2011) has been considerably improved compared to the previous version, but the timing chain issue has not been entirely eliminated. As George rightly stressed, regular oil changes are vital. And you should preemptively replace the chain at some 200K km at the latest, just in case. Of course, you should replace it even earlier if you notice the characteristic rattling noise.
@@liberalniautokrata7697 I believe you, but I have to say I'm already at 255K km with mine, and I'm not planning on replacing it for as long as I hear no noise coming from it. I think it also depends on what type of driving you do. My car doesn't really drive anywhere except for the highway. I've also heard that N47's with manual gearboxes (like mine) are more likely to get chain issues because of the 'bumps', where a DCT can provide a much smoother engine operation. I have 2 colleagues with also N47's approaching the 300K km with the original chain. If one of our chains should break, I will let you know ;)
@@wesley8096 I read somewhere a few years ago, after my 2013 320D chain broke, and caused significant damage internally, that it's the frequent, shorter, cold drives that cause the build-up of metal fibres (not sure I've used the right term) which eventually leads to these breaking. Frequent oil changes can assist in prolonging the chances of the chain snapping.
How long did it take you to do this ?
It took me 10x longer because I was recording it. A garage should be able to get just the timing chain kit replaced in around 15 hours👍🏻
Question when you replace the timing chain. Should you remove the engine?
Can just remove the gearbox but less access will make the job a little harder
So you installed the clutch that easily without any special tools and succeeded connecting the gearbox to the engine? Unfortunately the process of installing the clutch is not completely visible in the video, can you maybe explain what exactly you did?
My dad turned down a piece of alumnium to work as a clutch allignment tool
@@GeorgeAusters Thanks for the quick answer! Good solution! I was thinking about doing the same, but prbly out of wood. I am actually more concerned about the pre-tension. Did you just hammer it on?
Hello. I saw on ebay upgraded chain kit. Apperantly two of chain guides are made of rubber they are black color instead of brown. Is that even possible or is it a scam?
Stick to OEM
@@GeorgeAusters i know but oem is not really upgrading their products.
It is... the new kit is a revised one
@@GeorgeAusters from what year amd whitch brand?
Does anyone know if its the same for a B47 engine ? Thanks
Pretty much yes
@@GeorgeAusters thanks mate doing mine tomorrow feel confident after watching your vid thanks
Good luck!
why does the pump rotate by 45°
Just does
Really good video. Just wondering if this job can be done with the engine still in the car.
It can but access isn’t great, you need to remove the gearbox and have the car high off the ground.
I didn’t fancy lying on the cold floor for hours at a time while trying to get my head into a tiny space so in my opinion it’s much better to remove the engine and then you can do a whole load of other jobs at the same time👍🏻
@@GeorgeAusters of course if you dont have a ramp youll be much better off taking the engine out like you did. Great job, thanks.
No problem👍🏻
You have a press in that timming locking set for removing the high pressure gear. Why you did not use it .it s wrong using the hammer ...it could damage the treads or the pump shaft.
I know. This method is for those who don't have the tool.
Oh this is giving me a right head ache looking into a Countryman Prince engine timing chain problems ok diesel bmw engine ok timing chain problems. Do any of these car markers make anything decent anymore
Hi George great video how do you fancy doing mine just started rattling
Would love to if I had the time and space but unfortunately I don't
can.t wait to hear this puppy up
what would you say is the average lifetime of a timming chain
Timing chain SHOULD last forever with proper maintenance
@@GeorgeAusters How many miles done since the change? And do you intend to keep it? Also did you change clutch at the same time... I'm about to have my chain replaced in a 118D Msport 2008 N47
@@bald_flexproductions565 Watch the other parts in ther series bud. Kept the same clutch and flywheel as it was replaced at 80k miles. I've done around 2000 miles since replacing it and want to keep it for about 5 years if possible!
@@GeorgeAusters Thanks for the reply, will watch the rest. I have the same intention with my N47, hope it's not wishful thinking.
@@GeorgeAusters I'm chucking in a new clutch anyway just for good measure.
very good job. must have cost 2000£ when it could have been done for a 30£ belt it's over engineered too many things to go wrong great for mechanics rip off for owners.citroen 2.0L diesel 110,000 miles between belt changes 1 hour labour
Oui claj labrakam ???
What brand of kit do you recommend?
Buy the timing chain kit here: amzn.to/39gvrha
@@GeorgeAusters OK thank you!
Melvin Vermeulen this is the worst kit I would recommend! Been doing timing chain replacement for these engines for the last couple of years and FAI timing chains bad quality. You’d be better of with Febi, it’s a bit priced, but you get superior quality and they will last forever if you change the oil every 10k!
You do realise FAI do not make the chains right? They’re IWIS the exact same as the OEM 🤦🏼
George Austers it’s not about the chain it’s self mate , i said the KIT. The (both) hydraulic tensioners en guides are just shit. Speaking not only from the n47 engine, but also from VAG-line and PSA PRINCE engines. Btw you missed an important part in the video: aligning and paying attention to the spline grove of high pressure pump, before installing the sprocket. If you do it, do it right ffs.
Its little wonder its almost always the top chain that fails on the N47 & N57's, its half the size / weight of the other two chains, why would BMW make this decision?! Thankfully just the top chain and guides etc can be changed with the engine and gearbox in place.
It can’t. You need to remove the timing cover and to do that you need to remove the gearbox, clutch and flywheel
@@GeorgeAusters It can if you split the chain, there are quite a few garages do this now for about £400. Only reccomended for the N57 though.
No it can’t, you can’t remove the HPFP sprocket without removing the timing cover
@@GeorgeAusters Correct you leave it on and just wind the new chain down over it.
@@tricksieboy Pointless replacing just the chain. It’s the tensioners and guides that can fail too👍🏻
Because I often read, what an idiotic design it is to have the chain in the back:
While I do agree that it is a pain to work on it - if you ever have to - (one of) the reason(s) to put timing chains in the back is due to safety regulations. For pedestrian safety, you need all the space you can get between your hood/bonet and all the hard parts (e.g. cylinder head) underneath. The idea is, to cushion the force of impact and evenly distribute it. If you have the chain in front, naturally you have the 2 camshaft sprockets sticking up in front of the engine and make sort of a edge that won't give in. In a pedestrian crash, those are areas where your hip (or a child's head) would hit.
In engineering it's all about compromise and how you weight all you different factors.
Just saying...
@Ma Wa - If the pedestrians life depends on whether or not the timing chain is at the front or back of the engine, then you are skating on thin ice anyway. If you are worried about the safety of pedestrians, drive more slowly! To design a car back to front IN CASE the driver has that one in a million chance of hitting somebody is lunacy!
@@bryanduncan1640 I'm sorry to say this, but I think you are missing my point. Of course this aspect of design is not the only factor in pedestrian safety. It is one measure of probably dozens of others, active and passive.
Your suggestion of "drive more slowly" could be another one, for instance in implementing a speed limiter. Very effective probably but not compatible with a lot of other requirements.
By the way, every car is designed front to back for that "one in a million" chance. Think of a rollover, or a front collision, a rear collision, side impact, small overlap, no overlap...
You would have no safety features at all if you go by your logic.
@@mawa9843 - Thank the lord that I don’t travel with you! I’ve never heard of anybody with a worse doomsday attitude than you. I totally understand the the drive ( forgive the pun) to eradicate wedge shaped bonnets ( sorry, hoods) etc, to prevent pedestrian damage in the event of an accident, but to suggest that the move to relocate the drive chain to the rear of the engine was in any way a “safety consideration” beggars belief. For this move to have any effect would imply that the front crumple zone had already been breached. In such a scenario, the pedestrian would have already had to “travel” through over one foot of bodywork/bumper (fender) before he/she even reached the engine!
@@bryanduncan1640 czcams.com/video/Di7SAzfTe30/video.html
No doomsday anything on my side. Just trying to explain design considerations in engineering.
Look at the video for clarification. A pedestrian crash is a not like hitting a pole. Your legs won't travel "through" the body work. They are swept away and your upper body will hit the bonnet from above. Therefor you need space between bonnet and engine. In the video you can even see the bonnet being lifted up by the protection system.
@@mawa9843 - Thank god I don’t have to live on the difference between the distance from the front of a car and the engine on a conventional engine to that of a rear timing chain engine. I fear that you are attributing an erroneous assumption to an engineering ( i.e. cost saving - v - somebody’s bright idea) solution. The extra inch or so that might, just might, be saved in the event of a crash could more than be compensated by making the hood longer or moving the engine back.
You missed to replace the crankshaft seal, didnt you?
No I didn’t
@@GeorgeAusters so it is not shown in the video you mean. No offesnse, it is great work what you do. Recording makes it all much harder, i know that first hand
bet you was gutted when you realised the crank pickup was left off, hope it wasn't when it was all back together 🤔
Crank pickup?
yeah the magnetic ring that sits between the crank and flywheel
@@liamjenkins5430 Yeah I installed that don't worry
You should know what are you doing. You have N47D20A engine so you should fit new timing cover gasket and oil sump gasket. The silicone is for N47D20C engine from 2010 year. You will get oil leaks from this engine.
I did know what I was doing, only the silicone came with the kit so I used that along with with original timing cover gasket. I used a new sump gasket which is a dry gasket.
George Austers you should fit new timing cover gasket. Its a metal gasket and its can be used only one time.
Rottami di motori costosi e nn valgono a nulla N47