Incredible 3D printed terrain for your D&D game
Vložit
- čas přidán 5. 03. 2021
- In this video, I am going to show you how to paint terrain that has been 3D printed. Perfect for use in your Dungeons and Dragons D&D game and easy to paint. Here are a few references to other 3D builds and techniques I use in this video.
Wizards keep: • Wizards Keep for D&D, ...
Bridge of Acheron: • Is it worth it to 3D p... - Hry
Just a quick note on the second print: That's not the layer lines you're seeing, it's 100% certainly a problem called underextrusion. What happens is that the printer either has to push out more plastic than it can, either because the print speed is too high, the temperature of the hotend is too low, the gears on the extruder are too loose (causing the filmanet to slip in the extruder) or there is a (partial) clog inside the nozzle. This causes gaps, where there is not enough filament available to fill in the line completely. The difficulty is in finding out what exactly is causing it, though...
Now, an 'easy' way of diagnosing the cause of the issue, would be to check the settings. Print at a lower speed, higher flow rate (for an Ender 3, 50/60mm/s and a flow rate of 100% should work fine, though). You can alter the settings in Cura (or your preferred slicer) to, say 40mm/s or lower and increase the flow rate to, say, 110%. After that, you can run a test print and see if that helps the issue. However, in my experience, a problem like this is more likely a mechanical one, especially it the printer has worked fine before.
For the mechanical side, you can check the extruder gear tensioning. Check if the gears are applying proper pressure to the filament being fed through and adjust if necessary. If there is a (partial) clog in the nozzel, you can try a cold pull (there are a ton of video's on how to do that on youtube). Also, please keep in mind that for an FDM printer, a nozzle is generally considered a part that wears out eventually. You could also consider switching the nozzle out for a new one, especially if the printer has been running for a considerable amount of time. I changed the nozzle on my printer a while ago and immediately noticed a pretty dramatic increase in quality of the prints. What happens is that the opening of the nozzle wears out to where it's not .4mm anymore, but more like .5mm or even higher. Fortunately, new nozzels are pretty cheap and replacing one is not difficult at all (there are a ton video's available on that topic, too). Personally, my money is on a partial clog in the nozzle or the nozzle being worn out; Those are the most common causes of underextrusion, in my opinion.
Hope any of this information is of any use to you!
Apart from the underextrusion, I have a tip for filling gaps and seams in prints. You can take a small brush and brush some baking soda in the cracks.Make sure it's where you want it and then drop a few drops of superglue (any liquid Cyanoacrylate glue should work fine, just don't use the gel type for it as it's a nightmare to get exactly where you need it for this purpose!) of the baking soda. Baking soda immediately sets the glue and gives it a little body, creating a very strong bond and a good texture to fill the gaps. Having a little bit of the mixture out of place is no big deal either, because it's pretty easy to sand down (just do yourself a favor and wear respiratory and eye protection when sanding it down - The dust coming off of it is pretty bad for your health when inhaled or if you get it in your eyes).
I really enjoy watching projects like this!
DUDE... Now THAT'S what I call a comment! I am going to try all of that (And then I'm calling you for support LOL). Thank you for watching.
you went all out ., awesome work
wao this looks really good, the horizontal lines actually compliments the layering of the rock formation in the normal print !
loved the tip on the saving flocking and the glue type for making vines - always cool builds and great tips with you guys - cheers!
Thank you, and thanks for the comment :)
That was cool brother! I'm running a very grim dark campaign with undead and necromancy...this piece just gave me some inspiration for my next build! Loved it!
Thanks for watching. Good luck on your campaign
That’s very cool. I’ve always been fascinated by 3D printing. Don’t have one but the creativity seems limitless.....unless you run out of that stuff. Bummer on that.
the layer lines on the second piece are underextrusion, not issues with the profile you printed from. I suspect if you tried pulling apart on those lines, they would separate the piece.
any suggestions on how to fix that?
I have made the same mistake with the flocking. Glad to see I'm not alone. 🤣
OOof that mess with the Ender and the running out of filament does not look like a fun time. 😜 Great build all said and done!
Thanks, I'm still new to the 3D printing world. I tend to learn the hard way :)
Looks great! Texture paste or paint might have filled all those printing lines, although if both sides had the lines that might have worked too 😜
Thanks for the tip. I will definitely try that.
Where's the stl from?? Love the look of it.
Oh, man, I have done the "ran out of filament overnight" thing too. 🤦♀️
I would have taken that partial rock print, glued some of the flat raft material to the top and sealed the edges with Green Stuff and perhaps used it to add a few details, and turned it into a raised plateau. That is basically what I did to the giant tree trunks I tried to print: turned them into a bunch of tall dead stumps.
Waste not, want not!
Great idea. I save all of my bad prints for that exact reason. Perhaps I'll do a video on that subject. Thanks
Who squeezes tubes in the middle? You always squeeze from the back end...
Link to the prints?
You should check out squidmire and his contrast paint videos and be shocked with how much time you’ll save using his method. You will be utterly shocked
Great build, any plans for the bad prints?
Funny you should ask... I have a box of all the bad prints and I was wondering what to do with them. any ideas?
@@thecraftingbrothers9448 scratchbuild terrain of course
I mentioned this up above, but if you glue raft leftovers (because they're flat, and they're just waste material otherwise, though you could also use foam) to the top of the partial stone print, and then fill and hide the seam with Green Stuff or some other putty, you can make a raised plateau as scatter terrain.
first great tutorial although I think a homemade dark brown wash could have kicked up a notch. second is a shame that the filament refiling technology is not up to par with the printer, I've seen some successful attempts to do it but is not like there is an actual company investing in it, after all is just how to process filament into a consistent string again
Thanks for the comment. I was going to do a brown wash (I did that on me wizards keep) but with all these layer lines, I thought it would bring out the defects. have you had good luck with washes on 3D printed stuff? Thanks for watching
I think the lines work on the stone 🤔
still waiting on that castle Greyskull update
WEll, you can wait no further... We are building it as we speak :)
@@thecraftingbrothers9448 omg I can wait take as much time as you need
Which 3D printer he used?
I use the Ender 3
That join line is rancid
I know that print frustration...