ボルダー&リードジャパンカップ2023 女子決勝
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- čas přidán 6. 09. 2024
- Boulder & Lead Japan Cup 2023 Women Finals
■決勝 - Finals
14:00 - 15:20 ：ボルダー - Boulder
16:10 - 16:50 ：リード - Lead
■公式サイト (Official Event Website)
www.jma-climbi...
■公式掲示板 (Official Result)
result.jma-cli...
Ai Mori 34:51 54:21 1:12:55 1:26:01 3:01:13
thank you!
mori ai championship interview translation (from 3:10:25)
q: first off, congratulations on your win!
a: thank you very much.
q: ever since the combined format changed to being only boulder and lead, it feels like you've dominated in every competition! how did you find the routes in the finals today?
a: in the boulder round, there were quite a lot of moves that i wasn't really good at and i ended up falling behind, but i managed to bring it back in the lead round which i'm better at, so, yes, i want to keep up this good performance in the future as well.
q: i see! during the last part of the finals lead route, it looked like you still had quite a lot left in the tank! did it feel that way to you, or?
a: um, so, the last part of the lead route was kind of uncommon, it was a very slight slab incline, which you don't see very often in japan, so it was really, uh, really fun climbing that. i also had quite a bit of strength left, so it felt good climbing the route.
q: so you got first place in the lead japan cup, and now you've also just won the combined japan cup! beyond that, are there any things you're working on to improve or any challenges you're trying to overcome?
a: um, i'm really glad that i managed to win today, but as expected, i'm still lacking in areas like explosive strength in bouldering, and although i'm confident in my endurance during lead, i still lack the decisiveness and strength to do big moves, so i'm going to be working on those areas. i want to get even stronger while continuing to maintain the things i'm good at.
q: i see! and with that, i wish you all the best for the world cup and the world championships! once again, congratulations on your victory! let's give it up for mori ai!
a: thank you very much!
Thank you!
🙏🙏
thank you very much!!!
I always have a good feeling when I watch Ai Mori climbs. As usual, she’s mesmerizing ❤
Funny how she's always the one least fazed by her performance :D
# Boulder
16:54 W1 伊藤ふたば (Ito Futaba)
18:39 W1 小池はな (Koike Hana)
21:06 W1 松藤藍夢 (Matsufuji Anon)
23:05 W1 永嶋美智華 (Nagashima Michika)
25:21 W1 伊藤ふたば (Ito Futaba), 久米乃ノ華 (Kume Nonoha)
27:51 W2 小池はな (Koike Hana), W1 野中生萌 (Nonaka Mihō)
32:29 W2 松藤藍夢 (Matsufuji Anon), W1 中川瑠 (Nakagawa Ryū)
34:49 W2 永嶋美智華 (Nagashima Michika), W1 森秋彩 (Mori Ai)
40:10 W2 久米乃ノ華 (Kume Nonoha), W3 伊藤ふたば (Ito Futaba)
44:58 W3 小池はな (Koike Hana), W2 野中生萌 (Nonaka Mihō)
49:55 W3 松藤藍夢 (Matsufuji Anon), W2 中川瑠 (Nakagawa Ryū)
54:33 W3 永嶋美智華 (Nagashima Michika), W2 森秋彩 (Mori Ai)
59:57 W4 伊藤ふたば (Ito Futaba), W3 久米乃ノ華 (Kume Nonoha)
1:04:24 W4 小池はな (Koike Hana), W3 野中生萌 (Nonaka Mihō)
1:08:25 W4 松藤藍夢 (Matsufuji Anon), W3 中川瑠 (Nakagawa Ryū)
1:13:05 W4 永嶋美智華 (Nagashima Michika), W3 森秋彩 (Mori Ai)
1:18:07 W4 久米乃ノ華 (Kume Nonoha)
1:21:48 W4 野中生萌 (Nonaka Mihō)
1:23:50 W4 中川瑠 (Nakagawa Ryū)
1:26:01 W4 森秋彩 (Mori Ai)
# Lead
2:26:58 伊藤ふたば (Ito Futaba)
2:31:26 小池はな (Koike Hana)
2:37:00 松藤藍夢 (Matsufuji Anon)
2:41:00 永嶋美智華 (Nagashima Michika)
2:45:45 久米乃ノ華 (Kume Nonoha)
2:51:45 野中生萌 (Nonaka Mihō)
2:56:32 中川瑠 (Nakagawa Ryū)
3:01:45 森秋彩 (Mori Ai) 👑
Happy to see Akiyo introducing.
I don't understand a word being said, but the excitement sure is contagious
Huge congrats to Anraku and Mori !. Thank you for posting ! 🙏
Another great ascend by Ai !!!
Anyone knows the DJ and his set of music playing in the background ?
Awesome set of house deep house !😎✌🏼
Camera work leaves a lot to be desired. Please stop cutting off to the audience or show replay or focusing on brushing when the athletes are still climbing. And what is up with the angles showing only the top half or bottom of the climbers 😅 I want to see where they placed both their hands and feet when climbing. Come on JMSCA, you can do better 🤣
the worst camera work I have ever seen
A judge had to shout at the cameraman because he was standing literally below a climber at one point, it was actually dangerous.
@@mayawitters omg... Hopefully they will do a better job for hachioji wc. Hachioji 2017 was really good... There's even a sub screen available where you can watch other climber attempts but without commentary during the semifinal if I remember correctly
@@XRW101 to be fair, I wouldn't call it the worst 😂.... But one of the worst. There's one where they focus way too much on random people in the audience when several athletes are climbing... I think it's in Moscow
that first boulder had no business being in the round lol it looked like literally v7. figuring out the difficulty in a combined event seems to be an issue so far.
?
I'm pretty sure it was well below V7. Too easy for sure.
Grading boulders off video is a fool's errand
@@zoaxanthellae I was there in person, and watched the finals with the national team coaches. One of them said 'it looks like we could probably also do that boulder' :p
The only bad thing is there is no close skill level climbing in the finals lead like Natsuki. Couldn't gauge if the crux is better if short
It had nothing to do with height, also a lot of those competitors are roughly the same height as Ai. She's just too strong.
@@mayawitters Nakagawa Ryu was the only exception at 170cm tall.
is there a dj playing and maybe somebody knows if there is a recording from this session online? I like the sound
ブラッシング中とかならともかく、トライ中にリプレイとか客席映すのはやめて欲しいな。
選手への敬意が足りないですよね
見たい場所がリプレイで邪魔されてしまってるのが残念。制限時間内にわざわざリプレイ入れなくてもいい気がする…
安楽さん、森さん 優勝おめでとうございます。
素晴らしいクライミングでした。
1:07:18 yeah, seems like a good time to cut to the crowd
It must be a Japanese-style paywall. They charge for the most important scenes (you need to buy a ticket and see on site)
Can anyone post translation of Ai's interview.
Someone translated it on the fly in the chat whilst it was streaming live. From what I can remember, Ai said she was thankful she managed to make up for her bouldering performance in the lead wall (by performing well) so she wanted to carry this feeling onto her next competition. And she mentioned the final part of the lead wall seemed similar to overseas routes more than Japan? Ai also mentioned she had fun on this route and felt like she had energy to spare at the end. She acknowledges that she has strengths in lead but will continue to work on things she needs to improve on moving forward. (Don’t quote me on this. I am not Japanese and this was all I remember from the chat translation).
This lead route is easier than walking to Ai.
Rewatching the interview after Tomoa's post. I didn't even notice Akiyo's pregnancy the first time I watched this. Congrats to them!
surprised to see Futaba in the last seed. Probably coz of lead, because she came out and flashed the boulder for fun...
They had a qualification round yesterday, the boulders were easy and multiple women topped all of them. Seeding here is not based on BJC and LJC
あいちゃん、すごい！！
一人ゴリラおるWW
あいちゃんはかわいいね
Futaba❤❤❤
意味わかんないタイミングで客席とかリプレイ入れないでほしいわ！
2023年４月２２日に八王子で行われた大会でCZcams配信の告知があったので、リアルタイムで見たいと思って検索してみたのにどこにライブ動画があるのかが全く分からない上に過去動画をリアルタイムと誤認させる検索結果が出てくる「超」不親切設計！！
おかげで倉敷の動画を八王子大会と誤認して（八王子大会のリアルタイムで）ずーっと見てしまいました。
組織委員会は本当に観客獲得したいのか甚だ疑問に思うお粗末な動画管理だよこれ！
走らせて入場とかやめようよ。
ご存知の通り、IFSC（International Federation of Sport Climbing）のワールドカップでも選手は走って入場するのにならっているのでしょう。
IFSCに意見を言いたいのであれば日本語で言っても伝わらないことを思い出してください。
@@john_doe295 ご存知とか思い出すとか知りませんよ。
IFSCにならってるという推察だけ、ありがたく受け取っておきます。
What does 'Kanto' or 'Canto' mean?
’Kanto’ means to have reached the top, that is, to have succeeded in completing the problem.