Water Pouring through our roof!! How to repair a metal roof!!
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- čas přidán 22. 09. 2022
- How to repair a metal roof that is leaking! I show you what I've learned and how to best repair a leaky metal roof. I used all of these products for my repair including the safety harness and rope system for fall prevention!
AMAZON LINK:
THROUGH THE ROOF SEALANT: amzn.to/3BEvYd1
Metal roof screws: amzn.to/3R5PDbC
Safety Harness: amzn.to/3SqndtH
Safety Rope system: amzn.to/3SaIyaQ
EMAIL: HiddenValleyHomestead18@Gmail.com - Jak na to + styl
Loving all the videos, keep it up dad! You are always growing every video!
Very useful - thanks! Back up onto the roof (leaking) and I'm now better informed :)
Perfect timing! We have some damage on our metal roof and my husband Virgil wants to take care of it before winter sets in. Thanks!
In Australia we wouldn’t usually insert screws into the pan (where the water flows) unless the roof sheets are being installed vertically as wall panelling.
We have a system where the roof sheets are secured in place by a concealed bracket that sits under the roof sheet.
If required for additional security (high wind areas) we would instal screws where the sheets lap each other by screwing through the high part of the corrugation.
Another difference is we use timber battens under the roof, not plywood.
Battens are spaced at 900mm centres.
It’s interesting to see the different ways roofing is done in the US compared to here in Aus.
Thanks for video and enjoy the new lifestyle, it looks amazing 👍
@spanky8164 correction here in Australia when installing metal roof sheeting we would never fit the screws through the pan period. Everything else you said is correct. And for the life of I can't understand why the Americans fix in the flat. I'm seeing quite a few roofers in America that are changing from screwing in the flat to screwing in the rib.The penny has finely dropped.
@@robertbutler8004
Hi Robert, thanks for your reply.
I probably didn’t word things correctly but I did mean that you should never screw into the pans.
Having been to the US a couple of times now I see their construction methods are a lot different to here in Australia. Plywood on the roof and that shingle material they fix to it.
No wonder you see so many roofs torn off when the have high winds and storms there.
Anyway it’s all pretty interesting.
I think that roofing with the clips is called raised hem. All screwes hidden.
@@robertbutler8004I am on my metal roof right now thinking the same thing.” Why put holes( screws) into the part where water flows……”
Thank you for the good information and your great video! Appreciate it! ❤
While you're up on the roof or you have somebody up on the roof doing the work. Have them make sure that there's no pine needles or debris or any dirt that has accumulated over time on the roof that could also allow for backflow. Check around vents and stuff make sure they're all sealed up. Excellent video Scot.
good job ... i need to do something like this on an old barn
But it only leaks when it rains! haha was great here in NM where it hardly rains at all. In 2022 it did rain HARD! and there was a leak. But 2023 it didnt rain at all. So heres June 2024 and it has rained 7 days (not in a row) and the leak is back! The young man (Im 74, think I could get on roof but not back down!) who wants to buy this house (was his moms), he got up there and caulked a place on a vent, but that wasnt it. i just realized this MFH home owner installed Pro Panel blue roof is over 20 yrs old now so your advise on checking the screws is probably why its leaking! Eureka! Thanks for posting this helpful video!
Good stuff. Learned something new!!
Great video and helpful tips!
I've inherited my dad's big shop house with a metal roof and it has leaks... I do not have the funds to maintain this situation and I'm disabled. I have a teenage son and we've been learning but the problems here are just really overwhelming. Great video. I'm hoping I can tarp this sucker safely above our living quarters. I did have a roofer go up there to do a quick look and he said someone overlapped the metal wrong in areas and near my chimney, someone stepped where they shouldn't have so there's a dip and water leaks in through there. Ahhhhhhhh.
Thanks! Glad I put on a conventional roof!
i used through the roof its great stuff, so far its held up.
Also leak stopper rubberized sealant is great
Great video. I may start the screw with cordless but finish by hand with 1/4 inch ratchet
good advice....thanks
2 things: 1. The screws you are using will still leak at the head to washer area because metal to metal contact does not seal without a lot of pressure of which you cannot get using a wood substrate. I recommend a screw that has a neoprene washer encapsulated in a "long life" hex head. 2. even if those screws are tight, the laps of these panels look to have broken down sealant or no sealant. If either are true, under snow melt this will allow what is called a "capillary effect", which will actually cause water to run uphill and infiltrate these laps due to the negative pressure of the air inside the home.
Great observations... All the screws I was using had that rubber/neoprene washer. They were roofing screws. I thought I showed that but maybe it wasn't clear. I'll do better next time... But your observations about capillary action totally make sense. There were spots where I had tightened up the screws last year but didn't replace them and I found a bunch that were lose again from the expansion and contraction of the panels and those were the spots that I had leaks. Again. Even though I had added sealant to the tops. I wondered if capillary action was causing the leaks and you confirmed it! You're the first one to make that observation and thank you!!!
@@HiddenValleyHomestead If I am hearing @KevFow correctly, he is talking about a hex head where the domed washer is not separate from the hex head, but is an integrated single unit, which sounds like a good idea.
As for capillary action at the seam joints, I was wondering whether lifting up the upper metal sheet at the joint, and laying down a 2" horizontal band of blackjack (or something traditional like this), and then resetting all the screws would be worthwhile, not every year, but every 5 years, perhaps.
Thanks for the info! We're having our nephew go up to check and tighten our screws soon (husband just had shoulder surgery, or he would be up there)- we'll get the sealant and extra screws so he can make the repairs when he's up there.
Absolutely go up prepared! Use that link for the sealant. Cheaper than the local stores!!! And it's the BEST!
I installed a tin roof on a shed a couple years back and used the tin that overlapped the roofing screws. It's a 6/12 pitch so not much snow stays on it anyway. Hoping the screws last longer under the overlap.
That through the roof is good stuff
they sell leak stopper 1 gallon at walmart for about 20-23 dollars. Also some hard ware stores i saw them selling for 10 dollars.
They are excellent and last a long time as it stretches and has a oil built in which penetrates leaking area.
I have a tube I just bought yesterday and am going to try it on my roof in a few weeks. The lumber yard said that's what roofers want.
It's expensive but it's awesome!
For plugging a screw hole which is no longer needed I like to use a combination of a sealant and a pop rivet. Be sure to use aluminum rivet with aluminum and steel rivet with steel.
Tedious but necessary! My barn has aluminum siding as well as a roof. I need to do this very thing.
Maybe i am overlooking, where you had a link for the through the roof sealant, but i just don't see it
6:28 that was very informative thanks!
You're welcome! Thx for watching
For screw holes that are loose you can stuff them with steel wool and a couple drops of exterior glue and then the screws will hold tight.
Hmmm. Interesting. My buddy Allen suggested the wood epoxy he uses for wood floors. It will penetrate wood fibers and turn rock hard.
You should go up to the next size screw instead of trying to use a new one or drilling a new hole. Less holes less chance of future leaks.
And let the critiquing begin...LOL...
i've installed these roofs on my buildings. I did it different, I put long screws in the top of the rib , not the flat , if they do loosen water (which runs on the flat) has a hard time getting in . also I use a polyurethane sealant not silicone
I'm pretty sure I showed everyone the tube and it's polyurethane......
Although Through The Roof is indeed an excellent sealant, it is solvent-based and I believe not rated to be in contact with the neoprene washers. I think if you are putting sealant around the top of each screw you need to use a sealant that will not break down the neoprene. I am not sure on this but worth looking into.
HEY GREAT info! I havent heard this yet! DEFINITELY worth looking into! You're the first!
Glad you didn't push the Turbo Poly seal.
I've never used that stuff and consulted a few roofing professionals first.... is that stuff garbage or what?
Metal roofs are great if done correctly this job was a failed install from the get-go. (1) the stupid screws fixed through the flat part of the sheeting instead of the rib, (2) The screws screwed into ply sheeting is a no brainer) A correct install if you must have ply sheeting fitted first then lay 2''x3'' or 2'x4' timber at app 2'apart fixed through the ply and into the rafters then screw the metal sheeting through the ribs the screws will never back out.
Interesting!!! Ribs on TOP of the OSB??? That definitely would have solved the problem of the screws backing out over time! I wonder if I could remove all of it, lay down new tar paper and then ribs on top..... just have to measure the hole spacing perfectly.... and reuse the metal cuz it's in perfect shape!
Ours is screwed down like your is but I've heard that the screws are supposed to be on the ridges which would help water shed and not be down in the flat. We'll be doing that onbe day. Maybe we'll all be GONE by then. GBWYall!
I believe you are correct sir!! But that's the way they did mine originally so instead of spending 15K for a new roof......
@@HiddenValleyHomestead 10/4 for no new roof and I'm a fellow diesel burner too but that seems logical and I've seen metal installed with the screws on the ridges while I was out and about doing grading around new construction. The ridges aren't the easiest but would sure be the best.
This is not true. These roof systems require the screws in the flat pan of the panel as well as a "lap screw" to hold the laps tight together. These are two different screws shapes. If you are referring to a long screw through the ridge of the panel into the substrate, while that is a common installation method used, that is not the best attachment or recommended due to the pressure of the screw misshaping the ridge and causing the panels not to lap tightly. Also, on a roof design where snow load is a factor, imagine these screws attached through the high rib into the substrate losing their shear strength from the leverage of the snow load trying to pull the panel downhill. I could go into a few more reasons but I might be rambling now.
@@KevFow I've got a son-in-law that used to work on a crew with Morton and he says that the heavier stuff is screwed from the ridge but the thinner in the flat. I've seen it both ways but didn't know what I was looking at. And we don't have much of a snow load here, especially now with all the hot air coming out of d.c.
I wondered about that! Isn't there a form that goes underneath said paneling to support the ridges from buckling? I know there are for the round corrugated roofing for sheds and whatnot...
You need to use some TURBO POLY SEAL combined with FLEECE!!!!
I thought silicone will rust metal due to acidic properties
It's not silicone brother. It's an epoxy meant for roofing. It's the good stuff!
man i got a 1890 carriage house someone put a metal or tin roof on prob over 20 years+ ago, every single nail in it dont have a washer and is loose. i went through a box of new screws already just on a small section going down the bottom and most screws didnt snug at all. i prob have to replace 400 nails and make about that many new holes if i wanna try to salvage it and not put a new roof on. its such a headache i just look at it and get stressed but i cant afford a new roof and this one isnt even rusty its just outdated and the previous owners let it go so long that the wood rotted in the ceiling beams so screws just arent snugging. it makes me furious. it wouldnt be so bad if the entire thing wasnt extreme sloped peaks that are almost impossible to move around on and hook my ladder at the top. god damn victorians
HOLY SMOKES DUDE.. I feel for ya! I thought mine was bad! Yikes! I'm hoping to get one more year or two out of mine so I can save up the money...
@@HiddenValleyHomestead yours seems pretty good compared to mine. someone put tar or something on mine. its black chunks that keep falling off. i think they either used a black tar to roll the entire garage which just looks awful, or they bought aluminum fiber and just didnt fully mix it and threw it up there. i think i might just roll over the entire thing in aluminum fiber and hope that it coats over the nails enough to seal them lol.
@@hippa2dahoppa2 Don't blame you there.
mini of 6 inch over lap on metal the more the better i like a foot
Says it's unavailable
Really? This time of year I'm sure there's a lot of these being ordered so I'm not surprised
I just checked every item in the list and all are currently available
@@HiddenValleyHomestead I'm in Canada so maybe Amazon calculates from my location. I'll keep checking.
I know the product is good because the roofer I spoke with a couple of years ago really liked it also.
@@sorinankitt Ah. That makes sense. Like here in the states there are some products unavailable to ship to other states depending on the contents. This epoxy is pretty strong chemically so it's possible it's not allowed to be shipped across the border.
11 minutes.
let me summarize. coat and rescrew
Done
Well mostly. LOL.
You should leave the Roofing to a professional. Remove the old stripped screw, clean the old caulk. Add a small rectangular piece of metal approximately 3"×4" up under the two overlapping sheets. Caulk under between new metal and old hole. Install new hex head #10 metal roof screw with neoprene washer 1" away from the old hole. Add caulk to old open hole and tool is smooth.
So a fifty year roof ain’t really a fifty year roof.
Right? Well the metal is certainly but obviously the limiting factor is the installation which in this case was a 20 yr job....LOL
i see ya sporting dead on gear
what the hell is chip board soneone giving stuff names that don'tmake no sense (skillsaw is now circular saw !) makes u wanna puke
use ice and dam shield instead of regular roof felt