This video is in response to a question form one of my viewers. I decided to post the response because I thought there are others who may benefit form this information.
Love your video I've been doing my brakes this way for years and I'm trying to show the younger generation This is the correct way to do it. Because they've been using the black brake lubricant I'm not going to say what kind it is. But I see after a year of the car driving when it's in for its next inspection . And the other employees use the black grease, there is no brake grease left on the car whatsoever it burned off. And I see the brake jobs I did year to two years later The grease that I put on there is still there I'm working properly with very little rust in areas where you're not supposed to have it.
02:38 best explanation of why to place anti-seize compound UNDERNEATH clips - to prevent rust from the bracket pushing the clips out and interfering with pad slidability
I have had some criticism for recommending anti-seize due to heat generated by the brakes. Under normal usage brakes will generate about 120 F and up to 200 in stop and go. More if you have problems. Permatex can withstand 1600 Degrees, If they are heating their brakes to a temp greater than 1600 degrees then they have lots of problems. LOL
@@richardspaulding5035 Well - While checking my brakes pads and calipers pins, I found one that I was not able to remove- seems stuck..Do you have any info or videos on removing a stuck caliper pins ? I checked CZcams as usual everyone has a different method including using a torch.. Seems like it would easier just to replace the entire bracket..
@@richardspaulding5035 Thanks - I was able to loosen the caliper pin by just using wd40 and PB blaster inside the boot then using vise grip pliers I just kept turning back and forth until it came came..I subscribed to your channel..
Yes yes yes. Thx for adding clarification to this complex lube issue. One comment: Lithium soap grease is specified for Toyota slide pins, hard to find but does the job without expanding the rubber seals on their slide pins, which jam solid if swelled by the wrong lube.
Great video! I've been doing brakes on my cars and for friends and family members and I use similar greases with great results. I use the Permatex anti-seize underneath the brake hardware (clips) after thouroughly removing dirt and rust with a steel wire brush and file if necessary from the area where the hardware goes. I use Napa Sil-Glyde or Toyota's pink rubber grease for the glide pins. I use the CRC brake grease on the top of the brake hardware and the backs of the brake pads to prevent squealing. If I use Toyota OEM brake pads on the Toyotas, the brake last somewhere between 7 and 9 years before needing replacement.
Thanks for the very thoughtful comment. I have had viewers tell me I should not use Permatex anti-seize because of the heat generated by the brakes. However, the label on the Permatex indicates it is good to 3000 degrees. If you heat your brakes up to 3000 degrees, then you have got much worse problems to worry about LOL. I agree it is very important to clean the rust and scale out of the journals. I have had people bring me the carrier brackets complaining the pads will not fit. I have to explain if they clean the journals out the pads will indeed fit. Please by all means don't be a stranger.
@@richardspaulding5035The Permatex Aluminum anti-seize is made up of grease and very fine Aluminum dust. The grease is only the carrier and it does dry out with time when exposed to high temperatures repeatedly. It's not designed for, and it's not a good idea to use it as a lubricant for moving parts, but it's a great corrosion inhibitor. That's it's true purpose. I wouldn't use it on top of the brake hardware (small sheetmetal clips that the brake pad ears ride on) or on the slide pins, but I will continue to use it on anything stationary with metal to metal contact because of the great results I've had over the years. Especially since I live in the rust belt.
@@bernardocisneros4402That is exactly where I use it, under the abutment clips, Sadly I also live in the rust belt. Southeastern Ma halfway between Boston and Cape Cod. Enjoy the conversation and appreciate your knowledge.
Thanks, I always replace those. I will need to review the video. I think the reason I may not have mentioned that was because lubrication was the subject of the video. I don't think I got into replacing any components. Thanks for the input, that is great advice however.
Great review. Just a point.....the silicone lubricant works better than the anti-seize and brake grease. You can use it under the clips and on the hardware bypassing the anti-seize and brake grease. It is water repellent and handles heat ranges better than ant seize and brake grease. It is a superior lubricant. I really don't know why brake grease is used when this lubricant has superior properties and works better.
Even better is Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant by Permatex. It has a temperature range of -40 to 3000 deg F. Sil-Glyde is only good to 425 degrees.
I have tried using only Sil-Glyde on everything and it doesn't last when it's used underneath the hardware, on top of the hardare, or on the backs of brake pads. It runs and dries out too easily with heat. After a few thousand miles, those areas are dry from the heat generated during braking. I had a lot of comebacks when I only used Sil=Glyde. The only place it lasts is on the pins because the rubber dust boots prevent it from leaking out or drying out. Permatex ceramic extreme is also very good for metal to metal contact points.
Thanks Juaquin; I have seen many times brakes come into the shop with uneven ware. Usually it is due to the installer neglecting to lubricate. Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching.
Thanks for the question; I have CRC anti brake noise spray in the shop but I seldom use it. All the high-quality pads now come with a multilayer shim that is bonded to back of the pads. These shims are designed to keep the brakes quiet. I only use the CRC spray on lower quality pads. You may ask why I use low quality pads? The answer is I don’t. However, from time to time friends and family will buy their own parts and ask me to install them or will do the repair themselves then ask me to fix the common disk brake squeal that ensues. That is when I will spray the backing. Sorry about the long-winded response, Thanks for watching my channel.
As soon as you put antiseize underneath the hardware clips, I disagree. Although I agree with lubing underneath, that hardware underneath is exposed to the same heat at the top. Antiseize does not hold up to heat very well at all and gets hard and crusty, almost like rust build up as you where trying to prevent that! I know everyone has their ways, but antiseize is not a good place for that.
Thanks jake; I have not considered that however I have been doing it that way for a long time. I am going to check with some of my buddies still in the business. If nothing else you have given me something to think about. Do you think I should be using the same stuff I put on top? Thanks for your suggestion and thanks for watching. By all means don't be a stranger.
@@richardspaulding5035 nice to see someone not backlashing at a constructive criticism! lubing on top of hardware is a huge controversial topic. Personally I find if you have a high qaullty stainless hardware, no need to lube on top. But 100% UNDERNEATH the hardware! I find that it attracts more crud ans will eventually seize the ears in place. As far as what lube I use pernatex synthetic brake grease for the hardware and slide pins. For the slide pins, other recommend sli-glyde because it won't damage the rubber boots, but in Northern Illinois the boots take a beating regardless and on most vehicles, it's better to spend $5-$10 on new boots. I would go try to find pernatex green brake grease as that seems to be the most respected and accepted brake grease in my findings . Antiseize has personally caused my slide pins to freeze up, burned the rotor up and warped it so I learned my lesson with that... Love your respectful outlook on my comment! You earned a sub!
@@jmabs5096 Thanks jake for the detailed information. I found that Advance Auto Parts stocks the green lubricant you speak of. I will pick up some next time I am over that way. I try to be respectful to all my commenters, even the nasty ones. One gentlemen called me a fat F, MY respose was: Yes fat I am but I have not been able to do the F in 10 years LOL. Don't be a stranger jake.
The permatex aluminum anti-seize is rated to 1600 deg. F. I've used It on exhaust bolts and years later (>5 years), later, they came right off and the threads were still silvery and greasy. Also the bolt heads themselves still had the residual antiseize compoud on them. So, Using it under the abutment clips not only seems like a good idea, but other you tubers swear by it as well - e.g. FordTechMakaloco.
@@johnd.5480 too each it's own, regular antisieze I could see being used UNDER the hardware, however not on brake pad ears or sliding pins, although they are rated for high heat, there is no lubricating properties for slide pins or break pad ears. Antiseize has many uses, but nowhere should it be used in a lubricating purpose.... Unless your thd tin man 😂
Thanks for the kind words. The profile picture is of one of my German Shepherds. Once in a while you will see him in the back ground of my videos. His name is Hi Ho , he is 8 years old now. My other Shepherd is only 1 year old. His name is Kachero, He likes to tease the old guy. This is a link to a video of them playing in one of the back fields. czcams.com/video/aIfkyYB-kDk/video.html Thanks for watching my channel.
Thank you for sharing this important tips. Big help. I have been using crc orange to lubricate slide pins as well. But you wpuld recommend silglyde for this application ? Thanks
They are both lubricants, the anti-seize covers better and has rust inhibitors. The brake grease however is a much better lubricant. That is why I put anti-seize under the abutment clips because those are stationary. I want to prevent rust build up between them and the carrier bracket. On the top of the abutment clips I like to put actual brake grease. This is because the lubrication quality is much better. The top of the clips are in contact with the pads as they need to slide back and forth when you apply / release the brakes. Sorry I was so long winded. I hope I answered your question.
What lube would you recommend for brake seal installation? I rebuilt the brake master cylinder on my 1974 Jaguar XJ6 but I am finding it impossible to get the plastic feeders back into the rubber grommets. Soap and brake fluid is not helping. Is there a trick to getting these plastic pipes back in place? Thanks.
@@richardspaulding5035 Thanks for the reply. I took a chance and pressed the plastic pipes in one at a time using my vise. I used Q Tips to apply lots of brake fluid while slowly applying pressure. Hopefully the master will be good for another fifty years.
Hi Richard - you should try the CRC Sylaramic brake system grease. Definitely the best stuff I’ve used, have not tried the CRC synthetic brake grease but I know the Permatex Synthetic doesn’t last long at all (not that that’s saying much, CRC is usually superior)
The caliper pins should be 37 ft pounds and the caliper carrier bracket should be 80 ft pounds. I am ashamed to admit this but with almost 50 years of experience I go by feel more than anything else.
@@richardspaulding5035 try to do my self today i started front able to remove the caliper brackets on the 2 bolts and the calipers were the boots located the only left was the rotors and i could not remove it even already the small screw that holding it i try to keep banging it nothing happening did i miss something here? do i have to remove the big screws in the middle? please tell i stop my projects because i laso punch a hole on the boot got scared darnnn
@@naamangeist7843 I don't follow you, I never said that it did. The caliper is what needs to float on the bracket. The bracket is tightly secured to the knuckle. Please review the video LOL.
@@richardspaulding5035 well when we're referring to brake replacement, rotor replacement is also part of that process much of the time. And on my Wrangler JL, the rotor can't be removed until the bracket is removed first. Also, my pins are greased but the threaded end, nearest the head is not, rather thread locker is applied. The threaded portion of the pin is fixed to the bracket and doesn't float.
Thanks; My channel is still growing. I am not quite big enough yet to attract sponsors and affiliates. However I have had some contact with manufactures. My channel has double up each of the last 2 years. At that rate of growth it should not be long before I get their attention. Thanks for the suggestion and thanks for watching.
I think he was suggesting that you provide the part # & name of the tools that you use Linked to the Amazon site so you can get paid when people buy those tools.
At his point I offer honest unsponsored reviews of the tools I use on my channel. I am not quite ready to jump into bed with anyone just yet but thanks for the suggestion.
Love your video I've been doing my brakes this way for years and I'm trying to show the younger generation This is the correct way to do it. Because they've been using the black brake lubricant I'm not going to say what kind it is. But I see after a year of the car driving when it's in for its next inspection . And the other employees use the black grease, there is no brake grease left on the car whatsoever it burned off. And I see the brake jobs I did year to two years later The grease that I put on there is still there I'm working properly with very little rust in areas where you're not supposed to have it.
Thanks for sharing, vey thoughtful
02:38 best explanation of why to place anti-seize compound UNDERNEATH clips - to prevent rust from the bracket pushing the clips out and interfering with pad slidability
I have had some criticism for recommending anti-seize due to heat generated by the brakes. Under normal usage brakes will generate about 120 F and up to 200 in stop and go. More if you have problems. Permatex can withstand 1600 Degrees, If they are heating their brakes to a temp greater than 1600 degrees then they have lots of problems. LOL
Nice video. I never thought to use the long Q-Tips. No more messy fingers, thanks.
Thanks Ron; I don't remember where I got the Q-tips but they come in handy. Thanks for watching my channel.
Thanks for the info..Seems everyone has their own ideas on what to use when doing brakes...This helps a LOT.....
LOL tell me about it, I have had hundreds of comments suggesting hundreds of ways to do it.
@@richardspaulding5035 Well - While checking my brakes pads and calipers pins, I found one that I was not able to remove- seems stuck..Do you have any info or videos on removing a stuck caliper pins ? I checked CZcams as usual everyone has a different method including using a torch.. Seems like it would easier just to replace the entire bracket..
@@victorlopez2143 czcams.com/video/6VyTAsok28Q/video.html
@@richardspaulding5035 Thanks - I was able to loosen the caliper pin by just using wd40 and PB blaster inside the boot then using vise grip pliers I just kept turning back and forth until it came came..I subscribed to your channel..
Yes yes yes. Thx for adding clarification to this complex lube issue. One comment: Lithium soap grease is specified for Toyota slide pins, hard to find but does the job without expanding the rubber seals on their slide pins, which jam solid if swelled by the wrong lube.
I hate Toyotas
Great video! I've been doing brakes on my cars and for friends and family members and I use similar greases with great results. I use the Permatex anti-seize underneath the brake hardware (clips) after thouroughly removing dirt and rust with a steel wire brush and file if necessary from the area where the hardware goes. I use Napa Sil-Glyde or Toyota's pink rubber grease for the glide pins. I use the CRC brake grease on the top of the brake hardware and the backs of the brake pads to prevent squealing. If I use Toyota OEM brake pads on the Toyotas, the brake last somewhere between 7 and 9 years before needing replacement.
Thanks for the very thoughtful comment. I have had viewers tell me I should not use Permatex anti-seize because of the heat generated by the brakes. However, the label on the Permatex indicates it is good to 3000 degrees. If you heat your brakes up to 3000 degrees, then you have got much worse problems to worry about LOL. I agree it is very important to clean the rust and scale out of the journals. I have had people bring me the carrier brackets complaining the pads will not fit. I have to explain if they clean the journals out the pads will indeed fit. Please by all means don't be a stranger.
@@richardspaulding5035The Permatex Aluminum anti-seize is made up of grease and very fine Aluminum dust. The grease is only the carrier and it does dry out with time when exposed to high temperatures repeatedly. It's not designed for, and it's not a good idea to use it as a lubricant for moving parts, but it's a great corrosion inhibitor. That's it's true purpose. I wouldn't use it on top of the brake hardware (small sheetmetal clips that the brake pad ears ride on) or on the slide pins, but I will continue to use it on anything stationary with metal to metal contact because of the great results I've had over the years. Especially since I live in the rust belt.
@@bernardocisneros4402That is exactly where I use it, under the abutment clips, Sadly I also live in the rust belt. Southeastern Ma halfway between Boston and Cape Cod. Enjoy the conversation and appreciate your knowledge.
Another thing worth mentioning is to inspect the caliper pin boots. Pins will seize up if water and contaminents intrude through the faulty boot.
Thanks, I always replace those. I will need to review the video. I think the reason I may not have mentioned that was because lubrication was the subject of the video. I don't think I got into replacing any components. Thanks for the input, that is great advice however.
Gotta find my local pot store to get these prahducts.
It is pronounced Phaaaat store and Phraaaaducts.
I got 21months and 40,000 miles on slide pins with Permatex 80653, salty northern New York...I'll never change from that.
Thanks for sharing
Great review. Just a point.....the silicone lubricant works better than the anti-seize and brake grease. You can use it under the clips and on the hardware bypassing the anti-seize and brake grease. It is water repellent and handles heat ranges better than ant seize and brake grease. It is a superior lubricant. I really don't know why brake grease is used when this lubricant has superior properties and works better.
Thanks for the information byron, I will most certainly look at that.
Even better is Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant by Permatex. It has a temperature range of -40 to 3000 deg F. Sil-Glyde is only good to 425 degrees.
@@naamangeist7843 Thanks I will try that.
@@naamangeist7843 Thanks for the info. The specs. look good!!
I have tried using only Sil-Glyde on everything and it doesn't last when it's used underneath the hardware, on top of the hardare, or on the backs of brake pads. It runs and dries out too easily with heat. After a few thousand miles, those areas are dry from the heat generated during braking. I had a lot of comebacks when I only used Sil=Glyde. The only place it lasts is on the pins because the rubber dust boots prevent it from leaking out or drying out. Permatex ceramic extreme is also very good for metal to metal contact points.
Excellent vid Rick, very informative 👍🏽
Thanks Cardo
Thankfully this video was really helpful
Thanks Juaquin; I have seen many times brakes come into the shop with uneven ware. Usually it is due to the installer neglecting to lubricate. Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching.
Never put anti seize any were near brake components. You can use either sil gly or the grease on the pins and tabs.
There are as many people that say yes as say no in that regard.
Awesome video
Thanks, I hope it was helpful.
I appreciate you sharing your knowledge. Some people say to lubricate the back of the pads, too. Do you also do that with the CRC?
Thanks for the question; I have CRC anti brake noise spray in the shop but I seldom use it. All the high-quality pads now come with a multilayer shim that is bonded to back of the pads. These shims are designed to keep the brakes quiet. I only use the CRC spray on lower quality pads. You may ask why I use low quality pads? The answer is I don’t. However, from time to time friends and family will buy their own parts and ask me to install them or will do the repair themselves then ask me to fix the common disk brake squeal that ensues. That is when I will spray the backing. Sorry about the long-winded response, Thanks for watching my channel.
TYVM for this video, appreciate it
Sorry Lou it was so long in coming; I am glad you enjoyed it. Once again thanks for watching my channel.
As soon as you put antiseize underneath the hardware clips, I disagree. Although I agree with lubing underneath, that hardware underneath is exposed to the same heat at the top. Antiseize does not hold up to heat very well at all and gets hard and crusty, almost like rust build up as you where trying to prevent that! I know everyone has their ways, but antiseize is not a good place for that.
Thanks jake; I have not considered that however I have been doing it that way for a long time. I am going to check with some of my buddies still in the business. If nothing else you have given me something to think about. Do you think I should be using the same stuff I put on top? Thanks for your suggestion and thanks for watching. By all means don't be a stranger.
@@richardspaulding5035 nice to see someone not backlashing at a constructive criticism! lubing on top of hardware is a huge controversial topic. Personally I find if you have a high qaullty stainless hardware, no need to lube on top. But 100% UNDERNEATH the hardware! I find that it attracts more crud ans will eventually seize the ears in place. As far as what lube I use pernatex synthetic brake grease for the hardware and slide pins. For the slide pins, other recommend sli-glyde because it won't damage the rubber boots, but in Northern Illinois the boots take a beating regardless and on most vehicles, it's better to spend $5-$10 on new boots. I would go try to find pernatex green brake grease as that seems to be the most respected and accepted brake grease in my findings . Antiseize has personally caused my slide pins to freeze up, burned the rotor up and warped it so I learned my lesson with that... Love your respectful outlook on my comment! You earned a sub!
@@jmabs5096 Thanks jake for the detailed information. I found that Advance Auto Parts stocks the green lubricant you speak of. I will pick up some next time I am over that way. I try to be respectful to all my commenters, even the nasty ones. One gentlemen called me a fat F, MY respose was: Yes fat I am but I have not been able to do the F in 10 years LOL. Don't be a stranger jake.
The permatex aluminum anti-seize is rated to 1600 deg. F. I've used It on exhaust bolts and years later (>5 years), later, they came right off and the threads were still silvery and greasy. Also the bolt heads themselves still had the residual antiseize compoud on them. So, Using it under the abutment clips not only seems like a good idea, but other you tubers swear by it as well - e.g. FordTechMakaloco.
@@johnd.5480 too each it's own, regular antisieze I could see being used UNDER the hardware, however not on brake pad ears or sliding pins, although they are rated for high heat, there is no lubricating properties for slide pins or break pad ears. Antiseize has many uses, but nowhere should it be used in a lubricating purpose.... Unless your thd tin man 😂
Good tips, thanks.
Thanks Urea. I am glad you found the information useful
Excellent video and nice profile picture
Thanks for the kind words. The profile picture is of one of my German Shepherds. Once in a while you will see him in the back ground of my videos. His name is Hi Ho , he is 8 years old now. My other Shepherd is only 1 year old. His name is Kachero, He likes to tease the old guy. This is a link to a video of them playing in one of the back fields. czcams.com/video/aIfkyYB-kDk/video.html Thanks for watching my channel.
Good video
Thanks, I think lubrication is the most neglected part of a brake job.
@@richardspaulding5035 appreciate you
@@marks5625 Thanks, I greatly appreciate the comment and your viewership.
@@richardspaulding5035 thanks for teaching us🙂👍🏽
Thank you for sharing this important tips. Big help.
I have been using crc orange to lubricate slide pins as well. But you wpuld recommend silglyde for this application ? Thanks
I am very sorry I have taken so long to reply. Thanks for the kind words, I am glad my video was helpful, Thanks for watching my channel.
What's different between anti seize and brake grease.
They are both lubricants, the anti-seize covers better and has rust inhibitors. The brake grease however is a much better lubricant. That is why I put anti-seize under the abutment clips because those are stationary. I want to prevent rust build up between them and the carrier bracket. On the top of the abutment clips I like to put actual brake grease. This is because the lubrication quality is much better. The top of the clips are in contact with the pads as they need to slide back and forth when you apply / release the brakes. Sorry I was so long winded. I hope I answered your question.
Excellent video, thank you 👍
I love your CZcams name; Lubrication is the most neglected part of a brake job. Thanks for watching.
@@richardspaulding5035 You're welcome :)
Thank you sir!
Thank you for watching
What lube would you recommend for brake seal installation? I rebuilt the brake master cylinder on my 1974 Jaguar XJ6 but I am finding it impossible to get the plastic feeders back into the rubber grommets. Soap and brake fluid is not helping. Is there a trick to getting these plastic pipes back in place? Thanks.
I have never worked on anything like that, wish I could be of help.
@@richardspaulding5035 Thanks for the reply. I took a chance and pressed the plastic pipes in one at a time using my vise. I used Q Tips to apply lots of brake fluid while slowly applying pressure. Hopefully the master will be good for another fifty years.
What would you recommend for lubricating the cylinder/piston and rub seal surrounding the caliper piston?
When I used to rebuild those years ago, they had us simply lubricate them with brake fluid prior to assembly.
Hi Richard - you should try the CRC Sylaramic brake system grease. Definitely the best stuff I’ve used, have not tried the CRC synthetic brake grease but I know the Permatex Synthetic doesn’t last long at all (not that that’s saying much, CRC is usually superior)
Thanks I will give that a try next time. Thanks for taking the time to place a comment and thanks for watching my channel.
I was recommended to use permatex “Copper” anti seize lubricant
@@michaelchueh You can use either one. The copper or aluminum. They both work equally well. I think Aluminum is cheaper.
hello and hi could you please tell me what is the torque spec on honda hrv 2020 on all bolts and caliper pins thanks alot
The caliper pins should be 37 ft pounds and the caliper carrier bracket should be 80 ft pounds. I am ashamed to admit this but with almost 50 years of experience I go by feel more than anything else.
@@richardspaulding5035 thank lot i could not see anything on googles mostly crv thank
@@richardspaulding5035 37 ft pounds pins on both rear and front the 2 bolts yes? that holds the the caliper?
yes
@@richardspaulding5035 try to do my self today i started front able to remove the caliper brackets on the 2 bolts and the calipers were the boots located the only left was the rotors and i could not remove it even already the small screw that holding it i try to keep banging it nothing happening did i miss something here? do i have to remove the big screws in the middle? please tell i stop my projects because i laso punch a hole on the boot got scared darnnn
All new cars come with no lubrication except caliper pin.
Thanks for sharing that information..
and thread locker?
I don't use it on brakes. Calipers need to float. I would be afraid it might get into someplace it shouldn't
@@richardspaulding5035 The mounting bracket doesn't need to float on the knuckle... or at least it had better not! LOL
@@naamangeist7843 I don't follow you, I never said that it did. The caliper is what needs to float on the bracket. The bracket is tightly secured to the knuckle. Please review the video LOL.
@@richardspaulding5035 well when we're referring to brake replacement, rotor replacement is also part of that process much of the time. And on my Wrangler JL, the rotor can't be removed until the bracket is removed first. Also, my pins are greased but the threaded end, nearest the head is not, rather thread locker is applied. The threaded portion of the pin is fixed to the bracket and doesn't float.
@@naamangeist7843 OFF COURCE, the caliper floats on the pins or rather slides back and forth on the pins thus called floating calipers,
You should start using affiliate links to these items on Amazon.
Thanks; My channel is still growing. I am not quite big enough yet to attract sponsors and affiliates. However I have had some contact with manufactures. My channel has double up each of the last 2 years. At that rate of growth it should not be long before I get their attention. Thanks for the suggestion and thanks for watching.
I think he was suggesting that you provide the part # & name of the tools that you use Linked to the Amazon site so you can get paid when people buy those tools.
At his point I offer honest unsponsored reviews of the tools I use on my channel. I am not quite ready to jump into bed with anyone just yet but thanks for the suggestion.