I started doing this a Couple months ago and made a huge difference in my scores. Our house shot normally has heavy oil and I was struggling with buying balls to hook more. But after the red scuff pad I get all the hook I need. Made a 30 pin increase in my average 💪🏾💪🏾
Thank you for this vid. I have been searching for someone to put something like this out there. I have theorized this forever. Sanding pads smooth the ball and Change the surface and reaction. Even watching CTD videos, you can see that when the ball is scanned after sanding that the peaks and valleys are reduced. It’s very visible. And it’s REALLY visible on the lanes after surface changes. Great vid.
That all depends upon what level of grit your are using. Use a courser grit and you will have much deep valleys and higher peaks, I guarantee it. All of the manufacturers use exactly the same Silicon Carbide particles used for Abralon pads for surfacing the balls at the factory, no different than using a sanding pads with the same grit compound (several abrasive manufacturers have the same thing). What is equally important is the METHOD used to surface the ball, how much you sand it, at what grit to you begin (ie; do you take it down to 500 and build up? .. if so, how many cycles with each grit .. what incremental grit steps? .. these things make a HUGE difference in the final result). I personally have a very strict method I use for mine, taking them down to 500 grit to begin, then specific step increments from there to final box finish with calculated grit steps between each, with very precise cycles of sanding (ie; direction, duration, etc). I can get my bowling balls nearly perfectly back to manufactured "box" finish specs using Abralon pads, a ball spinner and my particular process.
I absolutely agree with you 100%. I stopped using Abralon a long time ago and only use a scotch Brite usually the maroon one 800 grit and when they wear down it’s more like a 2000 grit and last a long time and I get great results of the lanes!!
Thanks for the information. I will give it a shot. Been using CD pads as well as scotch 3M sand paper. Both work, but frequent use will decrease the lifespan of your ball (unless you completely redo the surface and box finish).
Thanks for this video! I may try these out. I used Abralon for a few years and switched to CTD pads in August 2023. They work well, but I am concerned about wearing away the covers of my new pieces. Too bad there isn't a 3k grit available. That's what I use on my pearl covers.
They do make scuff pads all the way up to 5k. The link I put in is just a good starter pack. 3k is what I use as well on most of my stuff to test it. Thanks for watching!
Cool find Im really interested in trying scuff pads. Its annoying having to hit my solid balls with surface after 6 games of league so I can maintain that consistent ball motion.
Thanks! Depending on the grit is how often I would do it. Higher grits I do more often since they don’t scratch as deep. But with 2000 I would probably do it every 6-12 games. If you’re having a problem with the ball going to far, I would definitely try it on your primal shock. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the info! i see your link only provides grits up to 2000. 1. Does the package indicate what color matches the grit? 2. Can i get beyond 2000 grit? it might be helpful if you had a video showing how to use the pads wit and without a spinner. too many theories on how many sides and how long and how much pressure. thanks
Yes if you look through the product pictures you’ll see the color to grit chart. There are also higher grits available but this is a good starter pack. Thanks for watching!!
4 x 240 Green Scouring Pad 4 x 400 Red Scouring Pad 4 x 800 Grey Scouring Pad 4 x 1500 Orange Scouring Pad 4 x 2000 white Scouring Pad so is there a 3000 or 4000 pad?@@TrueHouseBowler
I use any all purpose cleaner with it. You don’t have too, but it helps to keep the life of the pad and also clean any residue off the ball as well. Thanks for watching!
I’m not sure people understand. There’s no doubt coverstock is removed to create surface…but these remove far less than Abralon or the sandpaper ctd sells. Peaks and valleys are key, not excessive material removal
@@TrueHouseBowler what defines excessive material removal? An abralon pad used by hand removes less than 0.0002" of material. You clearly can afford an 8"-9" micrometer and measure how much material an abralon pad removes vs a 3m pad using the same cutting pressure and grit rating. Abralon/siaar/trucut/etc pads produce a uniform surface. 3m pads, while effective at creating a surface, are not. This can't be compared with a ctd scanner but would need to be compared optically with a comparator. While 3m pads can be effectively used, to say they are superior to what manufacturers use is incredibly misleading.
@travishanson166 The last thing you want is a uniform surface. Peaks and valleys are what makes a coverstock grip. It’s true that Abralon or overpriced CTD sandpaper produces an even surface which is good if that’s what you want. But I do have access to an optical laser scanner which microscopically shows the true picture of what each one does. And I assure you that the scuff pads produce a true surface of peaks and valleys to what is considered “standard” in the industry. So to say I’m misleading people is completely false. I give information based on my findings. People can either accept them or not or dispute with their own findings using the same instrumentation. But again, I have no stock in either brand. Only giving people a different option at a better value than what’s on the market. Even in the video I say, if you prefer Abralon then use Abralon. I don’t care either way. Thanks for watching
I have. Usually between blocks or after a tournament out of town. It does work good. Obviously takes a bit longer than on a spinner but you get great results either way. Thanks for watching!
I am going to try this. I resurface my bowling balls every 2 to 3 weeks (I bowl 3 leagues per week). I am quite meticulous with my resurfacing and have been great very good results doing it with Abralon pads, but this could be even better. I will try it for sure, just ordered some from Amazon. FYI, you say it just "leaves scratches" but doesn't remove cover stock. That's not true. The only way to leave scratches it to remove material. So while these pads may not remove as much material as Abralon, they definitely do remove material or the surface would not be changing, even if they are polishing they are still removing material in order to do so (yes, a tiny amount). You cannot change the surface without removing material.
Correct, but with scuff pads it maintains the ratio between the peaks and valleys which is the Ra and Rs values respectively. Abralon or any sanding pad evens the peaks and valleys out. Think of it microscopically like a tire. The racing slick (Abralon) is grippy except in rain or snow. You need tread (scuff pads) to dig in. So while Abralon does create “surface”, it does it by evening out the treads per se. Thanks for watching!!
@@TrueHouseBowler Can't possibly be preserving peak to valley ratio. It still has to take away material in order to change the surface. The vast majority of which is going to be from the peaks, and probably almost exclusively from the peaks, which will reduce the ratio of peak to valley. If surfaced properly and taken down to 500 grit or less, you would be creating brand new peaks and valleys (the way you are supposed to). The factory does EXACTLY this when they produce bowling ball finish. When you are finished bringing the surface up to say 2000, properly, you will have a mixture of peak to valley ratios on the surface. Some original 500 grit, some 1000 grit, most at 2000 grit, but a mixture of them. This is exactly what CTD has talked about as well. You cannot get this type of surface unless you use an abrasive hard enough to cut new material, like Silicon Carbide, otherwise you are just rounding and flattening the peaks. I completely disagree with your premise that you are maintaining the peak to valley ratio with scuff pads. You are simply cleaning the valleys and potentially flattening the peaks. Since you are not removing much material with a scuff pad (the material is not hard enough to cut the cover stock), you are most likely doing little more than cleaning the valleys. After a ball gets "lane shine" it is imperative that you cut new "scratches" into the surface in order to regain those peaks and valleys again. To do this you must remove material, a fair amount of material in fact (again, surfacing all the way down to 500 grit or below and rising up to preferred finish). Modern manufacturers state these specs right on their packaging and data sheets. For example, for a Radical Innovator ball, the manufacturer surface specs are 500, 1000, 1500 Siaair / Crown Factory Compound. They are using specifically Siaair abrasives, but those are calibrated to the same grit specifications as Abralon abrasives (there is a standard for this). This is exactly the process I use when I refinish mine, just as the manufacturer did when they produced the ball. I try to mimic the process as closely as I can, and have been pretty darned successful doing so.
I’m sorry but you’re wrong. You need scratches to maintain the ratio not Abralon sanding pads that smooths the surface. If you invest in a laser surface scanner that shows the Ra and Rs values, you’ll see a difference. But ultimately you can use whatever you’d like. I have no stake in either company. I’m only trying to give people an alternative to the overpriced CTD pads and abralon pads on Amazon. If you don’t like scuff pads or trust the results, don’t use them ✌🏾
@@TrueHouseBowler - not wrong. And I absolutely agree with you about CTD .. everything they have is extremely over priced. That's why I even manufacture my own cleaning solutions, better than what they have and protect the plasticizer in my bowling balls, at a tiny fraction of the cost. But the premise of what I have described is 100% correct and sound. FYI, I have ordered some scuff pads to test, they could produced a desirable surface, but as far as actual surface texture (as I have described), I am definitely not wrong.
Do you have data to back your premise? I do. After numerous tests and multiple studies Abralon abrades the peaks and coverstock. I don’t say or film anything without some kind of proof I assure you of that. I am curious about your cleaner though as we’ve been experimenting with different methods and testing different oils to see the relationship between them. Do you have a link or a website I could purchase some at?
Wouldnt scratching remove ball material? Creating a crevice in the ball surface means something is removed that was there. Did u word this wrong? I used these types of pads to scuff paint on cars and it definitely removes the paint. If ya keep going, the paint wears away.
What I’m saying is that’s it’s creating fine scratches and not removing the peaks of the surface. Obviously anytime an abrasive object is used it will take away from it and the surface it’s rubbing against. And of course you could put a lot of pressure and really abrade the surface. But with light consistent pressure, it’s creates a nice finish. After significant testing, Abralon smoothes the coverstock where scuff pads create microscopic scratches. While it’s true it removes coverstock, it’s far less than sanding pads. Why do you use these for paint? My guess is because it creates less dust and gives a better surface for the next coat to stick to. Thanks for watching!
@@TrueHouseBowler thx for explaining further. Yes, the new paint needs a rougher surface to stick to. Softer surface of the pad makes it easier to not create flat spots in the paint, much like foam abralon pads or your pads on bowling balls.
Lol. Yep. People go crazy thinking it’ll hook more. If the serial number isn’t visible, it’s illegal to throw. Saw a guy at nationals have his been taken for no serial number. 😂
I always try to put 1000 under 2000 just to give it some teeth and won’t lane shine so fast. I’ve noticed if I just put 2000 on it, it’ll only last a few frames or one game at most before lane shine takes over. I only use light pressure for about 10 seconds until the entire surface looks consistent. Thanks for watching!
How do you know what pad grit to use on balls. I'm quite to new to this but have a ball spinner and want my balls to last. Are you using same grit on every ball no matter what then a little polish or what. how would i know what surface these different pads would put my ball to. So many questions. I heard that i was local to you and someone mentioned your channel to me. I like to reach out to you if that is a possibility.
Hello thanks for your question. So the grit I chosen by where I want the ball to read. Simplistic version is to think of the lane front to back. If I want the ball to start hooking sooner I will use more surface (lower grit pad) so it’ll hook sooner. If I want the ball to go further down the lane or get through the heads and midlanes easier, then I would use polish. Also, polish can create a skid-flip reaction where the ball where skid and then when it sees friction or the dry part of the lane it will immediately move left (for a right hander). Again, thats a very simple concept but should get you moving in the right direction. If your ball is going too long before hooking, you need to add some surface. Who mentioned we were near each other? Thanks for the question! I appreciate you watching!
@@TrueHouseBowler That makes a lot of sense, thank you for the information. I ordered the pads and resurfaced some of mine and they had a little better shape tonight in league. It defiantly helped with the hammer new blue. A guy that I recently met told me to look you up. I spoke to a lady at the bowling alley tonight that had your logo on her bad and she told me to send you a Facebook request, so you should have one. Thanks!
Uses of scuff pad or Abralon? Abralon lasts about 5 before it loses the grit it’s rated at. I’ve been using the same scuff pad for a couple months so quite a while. You can also flip the scuff pad over where you can’t the Abralon. Thanks for watching!!
@@TrueHouseBowler - I get a bit more life out of them with the process I use in cleaning the pad with every sanding pass cycle. I use a lot of fluid (my own formula) as a cutting lubricant and I clean the surface of the pad with a special brush with each sanding pass cycle. This keeps the space between the Silicon Carbide particles from clogging and maintains the abrasion score for much much longer. Just keep them clean and clog free and you will find a much longer life from them. Silicon Carbide is much harder material than the cover stock of a bowling ball, so if you keep them clog free the Silicon Carbide particles will retain their size and shape for quite a long time.
Use whatever works... but you can't grind ANY abrasive against the surface of a bowling ball (or anything else for that matter) without removing tiny amounts of material. That's what sanding does... it removes stuff from surfaces. I've used the Scotchbrite pads myself in a pinch, and guess what? If you take one to a blue bowling ball, you're gonna get a bunch of blue gunk stuck in the pad when you're done. Where do you suppose that stuff came from? It's the material you removed. We're also talking about MICRONS (or fractions thereof) of surface material at a time. Unless you're sitting there with a spinner and grinding away at the ball for hours at a time, you're not removing any significant amount from the cover. Just about any ding or small chunk of cover that the ball returns will inevitably inflict on it will remove more material in one swipe than all the surface adjustments you make for that ball's entire lifespan. Now it may very well be that Scothbrite pads are more durable and last longer than Abralon, giving you more consistent results for a longer period of time... but if you think that you're not removing material, you're sadly mistaken.
Thanks for your comment! I agree use whatever works. I’ve done tests using a surface scanner and it’s reads the balls surface of the Ra and Rs values. I can assure you that abralon makes the peaks and valleys closer together whereas the scuff pads maintain the ratio by quite a significant amount. Of course anytime you rub something abrasive against another surface it’s removing part of it, but after testing the abralon removes more of the coverstock and also smooths the peaks and valleys. Maintaining those are the key to consistent surface preparation. I completely agree that if you’d rather use abralon or roll across the parking lot, then that’s what someone should do. This is a different option and more cost effective than other “standard” options on the market. Thanks for watching!
Of course you’re going to get some dust from anything you use to put scratches on a surface, but only a portion of it with the Scotch-Brite pads compared to Abralon pads or tru cut or any of those pads,,
Thank you. Exactly the point I was trying to make. The scuff pads create far less dust because they are actually creating fine scratches and not smoothing the surface like other pads. I was only trying to open people up to alternative methods to try 😂 Thanks for watching I appreciate it!
Are the colors and associated grits of these pads standard across different manufacturers? In other words...will a white pad always be 2000 regardless of manufacturer? I'm going to give this a try. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for your question! For the most part they are but they’re are always outliers depending on manufacturer. I would also recommend using actual scuff pads instead of the blue or green ones you see at stores. Just from a standpoint of getting a variety of grits. White is my go to and gives a nice surface finish when used with some cleaner. Thanks for watching!
Would you say it’s good to use them if you don’t have a ball spinner? Like for the traditional person that scuffs their ball by hand and or that polishes them by hand?
Yes. It works just like any other scuff pad. Anything without a spinner will take a little longer but you can still get great results. I would recommend experimenting using different grits and find the one that you gives you the result you want. Thanks for watching!!
What you’re saying makes no sense as to one product removes the surface vs another that somehow doesn’t. They are all sand paper, what does sand paper do, remove surface…dughhhh. This is simply a promotional video just be honest. FOH
Nope. I have no stock in the company. Doesn’t matter to me if you use these or overpriced sandpaper. But the fact is, Abralon degrades the surface and makes the peaks valleys even. Scuff pads maintain the ratio. Data proves that. Use whatever floats your boat. Doesn’t matter to me ✌🏾
I started doing this a Couple months ago and made a huge difference in my scores. Our house shot normally has heavy oil and I was struggling with buying balls to hook more. But after the red scuff pad I get all the hook I need. Made a 30 pin increase in my average 💪🏾💪🏾
Exactly! I think it gives a far more consistent surface than abralon pads. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for this vid. I have been searching for someone to put something like this out there. I have theorized this forever. Sanding pads smooth the ball and Change the surface and reaction. Even watching CTD videos, you can see that when the ball is scanned after sanding that the peaks and valleys are reduced. It’s very visible. And it’s REALLY visible on the lanes after surface changes. Great vid.
Thank you! Yes a huge difference between the two. Thanks for watching!
That all depends upon what level of grit your are using. Use a courser grit and you will have much deep valleys and higher peaks, I guarantee it. All of the manufacturers use exactly the same Silicon Carbide particles used for Abralon pads for surfacing the balls at the factory, no different than using a sanding pads with the same grit compound (several abrasive manufacturers have the same thing). What is equally important is the METHOD used to surface the ball, how much you sand it, at what grit to you begin (ie; do you take it down to 500 and build up? .. if so, how many cycles with each grit .. what incremental grit steps? .. these things make a HUGE difference in the final result). I personally have a very strict method I use for mine, taking them down to 500 grit to begin, then specific step increments from there to final box finish with calculated grit steps between each, with very precise cycles of sanding (ie; direction, duration, etc). I can get my bowling balls nearly perfectly back to manufactured "box" finish specs using Abralon pads, a ball spinner and my particular process.
I absolutely agree with you 100%. I stopped using Abralon a long time ago and only use a scotch Brite usually the maroon one 800 grit and when they wear down it’s more like a 2000 grit and last a long time and I get great results of the lanes!!
Thank you! Yes they last way longer and definitely better than abralon pads! Thanks for watching!!
Thanks for the information. I will give it a shot. Been using CD pads as well as scotch 3M sand paper. Both work, but frequent use will decrease the lifespan of your ball (unless you completely redo the surface and box finish).
Sounds great! Thanks for watching
Great tip, thanks!
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for this video! I may try these out. I used Abralon for a few years and switched to CTD pads in August 2023. They work well, but I am concerned about wearing away the covers of my new pieces. Too bad there isn't a 3k grit available. That's what I use on my pearl covers.
They do make scuff pads all the way up to 5k. The link I put in is just a good starter pack. 3k is what I use as well on most of my stuff to test it. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video. I have been using these same pads from a paint store. But they only had lower grits so thanks for the link.
Also do they make or do you know of any higher than 2000 grit?
Yes they make all the way to 5000. The link is just a good starter pack. Thank you
Cool find Im really interested in trying scuff pads. Its annoying having to hit my solid balls with surface after 6 games of league so I can maintain that consistent ball motion.
I use the maroon and the gray, and, also, the blue.
Awesome! If you like the blue, you should try orange. It’s a little less but gives the ball a little more pop. Thanks for watching!!
How often would scuff the ball with these scouring pads? I have a primal shock and thought about trying these at 2000grit. Thanks
Thanks! Depending on the grit is how often I would do it. Higher grits I do more often since they don’t scratch as deep. But with 2000 I would probably do it every 6-12 games. If you’re having a problem with the ball going to far, I would definitely try it on your primal shock. Thanks for watching!
With the new Venom EJ coming out now I am torn. 🤣 they might be a good compliment to each other .
Bruh, scuff pads are the best 👌
💯 imagine thinking sandpaper is the same 😂 Thanks for watching
I use the 100 scuff pad works great
The black one
Lmao! That’s the largest one
Thanks for the info! i see your link only provides grits up to 2000. 1. Does the package indicate what color matches the grit? 2. Can i get beyond 2000 grit? it might be helpful if you had a video showing how to use the pads wit and without a spinner. too many theories on how many sides and how long and how much pressure. thanks
Yes if you look through the product pictures you’ll see the color to grit chart. There are also higher grits available but this is a good starter pack. Thanks for watching!!
4 x 240 Green Scouring Pad
4 x 400 Red Scouring Pad
4 x 800 Grey Scouring Pad
4 x 1500 Orange Scouring Pad
4 x 2000 white Scouring Pad so is there a 3000 or 4000 pad?@@TrueHouseBowler
What is your re-polishing process for your polished balls using scotch brite. I think we are all looking forward to more of these.
I go up to 3000. Then use polish on a 3000 pad, then a cloth and polish of choice to the desired grit. Thank you!
Should you still use bowling ball cleaner on the scotch brite pads or is that not necessary?
I use any all purpose cleaner with it. You don’t have too, but it helps to keep the life of the pad and also clean any residue off the ball as well. Thanks for watching!
3m pads certainly cut. Cutting is necessary to create surface.
Polish cuts.
Exactly, you cannot change the surface without removing material .. impossible.
I’m not sure people understand. There’s no doubt coverstock is removed to create surface…but these remove far less than Abralon or the sandpaper ctd sells. Peaks and valleys are key, not excessive material removal
@@TrueHouseBowler what defines excessive material removal? An abralon pad used by hand removes less than 0.0002" of material.
You clearly can afford an 8"-9" micrometer and measure how much material an abralon pad removes vs a 3m pad using the same cutting pressure and grit rating.
Abralon/siaar/trucut/etc pads produce a uniform surface. 3m pads, while effective at creating a surface, are not. This can't be compared with a ctd scanner but would need to be compared optically with a comparator.
While 3m pads can be effectively used, to say they are superior to what manufacturers use is incredibly misleading.
@travishanson166 The last thing you want is a uniform surface. Peaks and valleys are what makes a coverstock grip. It’s true that Abralon or overpriced CTD sandpaper produces an even surface which is good if that’s what you want. But I do have access to an optical laser scanner which microscopically shows the true picture of what each one does. And I assure you that the scuff pads produce a true surface of peaks and valleys to what is considered “standard” in the industry. So to say I’m misleading people is completely false. I give information based on my findings. People can either accept them or not or dispute with their own findings using the same instrumentation. But again, I have no stock in either brand. Only giving people a different option at a better value than what’s on the market. Even in the video I say, if you prefer Abralon then use Abralon. I don’t care either way. Thanks for watching
@@TrueHouseBowler it would make a great video to show the photos of each type of surface compared side by side.
Do you do it without a ball spinner ever? Does it work just as good in your opinion?
I have. Usually between blocks or after a tournament out of town. It does work good. Obviously takes a bit longer than on a spinner but you get great results either way. Thanks for watching!
I am going to try this. I resurface my bowling balls every 2 to 3 weeks (I bowl 3 leagues per week). I am quite meticulous with my resurfacing and have been great very good results doing it with Abralon pads, but this could be even better. I will try it for sure, just ordered some from Amazon. FYI, you say it just "leaves scratches" but doesn't remove cover stock. That's not true. The only way to leave scratches it to remove material. So while these pads may not remove as much material as Abralon, they definitely do remove material or the surface would not be changing, even if they are polishing they are still removing material in order to do so (yes, a tiny amount). You cannot change the surface without removing material.
Correct, but with scuff pads it maintains the ratio between the peaks and valleys which is the Ra and Rs values respectively. Abralon or any sanding pad evens the peaks and valleys out. Think of it microscopically like a tire. The racing slick (Abralon) is grippy except in rain or snow. You need tread (scuff pads) to dig in. So while Abralon does create “surface”, it does it by evening out the treads per se. Thanks for watching!!
@@TrueHouseBowler Can't possibly be preserving peak to valley ratio. It still has to take away material in order to change the surface. The vast majority of which is going to be from the peaks, and probably almost exclusively from the peaks, which will reduce the ratio of peak to valley. If surfaced properly and taken down to 500 grit or less, you would be creating brand new peaks and valleys (the way you are supposed to). The factory does EXACTLY this when they produce bowling ball finish. When you are finished bringing the surface up to say 2000, properly, you will have a mixture of peak to valley ratios on the surface. Some original 500 grit, some 1000 grit, most at 2000 grit, but a mixture of them. This is exactly what CTD has talked about as well. You cannot get this type of surface unless you use an abrasive hard enough to cut new material, like Silicon Carbide, otherwise you are just rounding and flattening the peaks. I completely disagree with your premise that you are maintaining the peak to valley ratio with scuff pads. You are simply cleaning the valleys and potentially flattening the peaks. Since you are not removing much material with a scuff pad (the material is not hard enough to cut the cover stock), you are most likely doing little more than cleaning the valleys. After a ball gets "lane shine" it is imperative that you cut new "scratches" into the surface in order to regain those peaks and valleys again. To do this you must remove material, a fair amount of material in fact (again, surfacing all the way down to 500 grit or below and rising up to preferred finish). Modern manufacturers state these specs right on their packaging and data sheets. For example, for a Radical Innovator ball, the manufacturer surface specs are 500, 1000, 1500 Siaair / Crown Factory Compound. They are using specifically Siaair abrasives, but those are calibrated to the same grit specifications as Abralon abrasives (there is a standard for this). This is exactly the process I use when I refinish mine, just as the manufacturer did when they produced the ball. I try to mimic the process as closely as I can, and have been pretty darned successful doing so.
I’m sorry but you’re wrong. You need scratches to maintain the ratio not Abralon sanding pads that smooths the surface. If you invest in a laser surface scanner that shows the Ra and Rs values, you’ll see a difference. But ultimately you can use whatever you’d like. I have no stake in either company. I’m only trying to give people an alternative to the overpriced CTD pads and abralon pads on Amazon. If you don’t like scuff pads or trust the results, don’t use them ✌🏾
@@TrueHouseBowler - not wrong. And I absolutely agree with you about CTD .. everything they have is extremely over priced. That's why I even manufacture my own cleaning solutions, better than what they have and protect the plasticizer in my bowling balls, at a tiny fraction of the cost. But the premise of what I have described is 100% correct and sound. FYI, I have ordered some scuff pads to test, they could produced a desirable surface, but as far as actual surface texture (as I have described), I am definitely not wrong.
Do you have data to back your premise? I do. After numerous tests and multiple studies Abralon abrades the peaks and coverstock. I don’t say or film anything without some kind of proof I assure you of that. I am curious about your cleaner though as we’ve been experimenting with different methods and testing different oils to see the relationship between them. Do you have a link or a website I could purchase some at?
I was using these 40 years ago As well as using different polish with scotch brites for different reactions.
Nice. What did you think of them?
Wouldnt scratching remove ball material? Creating a crevice in the ball surface means something is removed that was there. Did u word this wrong? I used these types of pads to scuff paint on cars and it definitely removes the paint. If ya keep going, the paint wears away.
What I’m saying is that’s it’s creating fine scratches and not removing the peaks of the surface. Obviously anytime an abrasive object is used it will take away from it and the surface it’s rubbing against. And of course you could put a lot of pressure and really abrade the surface. But with light consistent pressure, it’s creates a nice finish. After significant testing, Abralon smoothes the coverstock where scuff pads create microscopic scratches. While it’s true it removes coverstock, it’s far less than sanding pads. Why do you use these for paint? My guess is because it creates less dust and gives a better surface for the next coat to stick to. Thanks for watching!
@@TrueHouseBowler thx for explaining further. Yes, the new paint needs a rougher surface to stick to. Softer surface of the pad makes it easier to not create flat spots in the paint, much like foam abralon pads or your pads on bowling balls.
Can you link the 3000 grit pad you use?
I've seen a dude surface his ball so much he knocked the logos off the ball within 2 weeks
Lol. Yep. People go crazy thinking it’ll hook more. If the serial number isn’t visible, it’s illegal to throw. Saw a guy at nationals have his been taken for no serial number. 😂
Do you have to skip sand with those pads 500 > 2000? How long do you have to sand each side for?
I always try to put 1000 under 2000 just to give it some teeth and won’t lane shine so fast. I’ve noticed if I just put 2000 on it, it’ll only last a few frames or one game at most before lane shine takes over. I only use light pressure for about 10 seconds until the entire surface looks consistent. Thanks for watching!
How do you know what pad grit to use on balls. I'm quite to new to this but have a ball spinner and want my balls to last. Are you using same grit on every ball no matter what then a little polish or what. how would i know what surface these different pads would put my ball to. So many questions. I heard that i was local to you and someone mentioned your channel to me. I like to reach out to you if that is a possibility.
Hello thanks for your question. So the grit I chosen by where I want the ball to read. Simplistic version is to think of the lane front to back. If I want the ball to start hooking sooner I will use more surface (lower grit pad) so it’ll hook sooner. If I want the ball to go further down the lane or get through the heads and midlanes easier, then I would use polish. Also, polish can create a skid-flip reaction where the ball where skid and then when it sees friction or the dry part of the lane it will immediately move left (for a right hander). Again, thats a very simple concept but should get you moving in the right direction. If your ball is going too long before hooking, you need to add some surface. Who mentioned we were near each other? Thanks for the question! I appreciate you watching!
@@TrueHouseBowler That makes a lot of sense, thank you for the information. I ordered the pads and resurfaced some of mine and they had a little better shape tonight in league. It defiantly helped with the hammer new blue. A guy that I recently met told me to look you up. I spoke to a lady at the bowling alley tonight that had your logo on her bad and she told me to send you a Facebook request, so you should have one. Thanks!
How many uses of a pad will it last before you need a fresh pad in your experience?
Uses of scuff pad or Abralon? Abralon lasts about 5 before it loses the grit it’s rated at. I’ve been using the same scuff pad for a couple months so quite a while. You can also flip the scuff pad over where you can’t the Abralon. Thanks for watching!!
@@TrueHouseBowler - I get a bit more life out of them with the process I use in cleaning the pad with every sanding pass cycle. I use a lot of fluid (my own formula) as a cutting lubricant and I clean the surface of the pad with a special brush with each sanding pass cycle. This keeps the space between the Silicon Carbide particles from clogging and maintains the abrasion score for much much longer. Just keep them clean and clog free and you will find a much longer life from them. Silicon Carbide is much harder material than the cover stock of a bowling ball, so if you keep them clog free the Silicon Carbide particles will retain their size and shape for quite a long time.
Use whatever works... but you can't grind ANY abrasive against the surface of a bowling ball (or anything else for that matter) without removing tiny amounts of material. That's what sanding does... it removes stuff from surfaces. I've used the Scotchbrite pads myself in a pinch, and guess what? If you take one to a blue bowling ball, you're gonna get a bunch of blue gunk stuck in the pad when you're done. Where do you suppose that stuff came from? It's the material you removed.
We're also talking about MICRONS (or fractions thereof) of surface material at a time. Unless you're sitting there with a spinner and grinding away at the ball for hours at a time, you're not removing any significant amount from the cover. Just about any ding or small chunk of cover that the ball returns will inevitably inflict on it will remove more material in one swipe than all the surface adjustments you make for that ball's entire lifespan.
Now it may very well be that Scothbrite pads are more durable and last longer than Abralon, giving you more consistent results for a longer period of time... but if you think that you're not removing material, you're sadly mistaken.
Thanks for your comment! I agree use whatever works. I’ve done tests using a surface scanner and it’s reads the balls surface of the Ra and Rs values. I can assure you that abralon makes the peaks and valleys closer together whereas the scuff pads maintain the ratio by quite a significant amount. Of course anytime you rub something abrasive against another surface it’s removing part of it, but after testing the abralon removes more of the coverstock and also smooths the peaks and valleys. Maintaining those are the key to consistent surface preparation. I completely agree that if you’d rather use abralon or roll across the parking lot, then that’s what someone should do. This is a different option and more cost effective than other “standard” options on the market. Thanks for watching!
Of course you’re going to get some dust from anything you use to put scratches on a surface, but only a portion of it with the Scotch-Brite pads compared to Abralon pads or tru cut or any of those pads,,
Thank you. Exactly the point I was trying to make. The scuff pads create far less dust because they are actually creating fine scratches and not smoothing the surface like other pads. I was only trying to open people up to alternative methods to try 😂 Thanks for watching I appreciate it!
Are the colors and associated grits of these pads standard across different manufacturers? In other words...will a white pad always be 2000 regardless of manufacturer? I'm going to give this a try. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for your question! For the most part they are but they’re are always outliers depending on manufacturer. I would also recommend using actual scuff pads instead of the blue or green ones you see at stores. Just from a standpoint of getting a variety of grits. White is my go to and gives a nice surface finish when used with some cleaner. Thanks for watching!
Would you say it’s good to use them if you don’t have a ball spinner? Like for the traditional person that scuffs their ball by hand and or that polishes them by hand?
Yes. It works just like any other scuff pad. Anything without a spinner will take a little longer but you can still get great results. I would recommend experimenting using different grits and find the one that you gives you the result you want. Thanks for watching!!
What do you use for over 2000 grits
They make scuff pads all the way up to 5k. Look up 3m fine finish pads. Thanks for watching!
@@TrueHouseBowlerjust wonder if looked up 3m pads but the highest it goes is to a 1000 grit or am i stupid?
Where do you buy them at?
I put a link to Amazon page in the description. Thanks for watching!
CTD pads work better than scotch brite. Might want to consider those.
I’ve tried those without good results. Thanks for watching!
What you’re saying makes no sense as to one product removes the surface vs another that somehow doesn’t. They are all sand paper, what does sand paper do, remove surface…dughhhh. This is simply a promotional video just be honest. FOH
Nope. I have no stock in the company. Doesn’t matter to me if you use these or overpriced sandpaper. But the fact is, Abralon degrades the surface and makes the peaks valleys even. Scuff pads maintain the ratio. Data proves that. Use whatever floats your boat. Doesn’t matter to me ✌🏾