How to replace a Peugeot 206 rear trailing arm bearings
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- čas přidán 7. 08. 2024
- In this video I will take you through how to replace the trailing arm bearings on a Peugeot 206.
This how to should also apply to other Peugeot models, perhaps with the potential difference of disc brakes.
The tools used in this video were:
Jack stands
Jack
10 mm spanner
13 mm socket
21 mm spanner
21 mm socket
32 mm socket
T40 torx bit
T50 torx bit
Sand filled mallet
Lump hammer
Screw driver
Flap wheel on airline drill
Plus gas
CV grease
Please feel free to leave any questions in the comments section or drop me a message. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
For me driving the outer bearing in to a depth of 5/8 inch or 16mm allowed the axle shaft to be fully inserted into the bearing when I put the arm back on. Any less will result in the shaft not occupying the full width of the bearing .This measurement will also give maximum spacing between the inner and outer bearings for optimum stability of the arm. How far the arm slides onto the shaft is governed by the torsion bar. It's worth noting that the end seal will also have to be driven in to allow the anti roll bar end plates to insert/locate correctly into the the arm, I drove mine down until they GENTLY met the edge of the bearing. CarAndMechanical could you please pin this vital information where people can see it Thank you for a great instructional video which is so helpful, The Haynes Manual said that the job was beyond the scope of the manual and didn't help at all. Cheers, John ...
Brilliant video. It gave me the confidence to do the job. However, and there is always a 'however', my torsion bars were totally seized in their housings and would not come off like the ones in your video.
I had to find a six foot long by one and a quarter inch solid bar which I slid over the subframe to be able me to hit the torsion bar housing from behind. I had to really swing a 7lb sledge hammer at full swing to move the bar out of its splines. If in doubt, hit it harder! The torsion bar eventually came out of the subframe leaving the bar still attached to the arm. I repeated the process with a vice on the ground and a car ramp to support my bar in the right position.
I then hit the end of the bar with the sledge hammer and after about ten minutes real hard hammering I managed to get the bar out of the swinging arm. It was safer to use the bar to avoid damaging the brake pipe holder bracket.
I then cleaned just the rust off the splines with a thread file and ended up with a torsion bar that would slide in and out of its housing. Using the six foot long bar meant I was hammering away from the bodywork and the arm, making the risk of damaging the car or arm less. Yes, I really did swing the hammer hard!
Re-assembly was easy and as 'per the video', although I find the inner bearing hard to get in and used a bearing puller kit.
Thank you for a really good video.
I want to thanak you for this perfectly explained video. I change rear axle on my Peugeot 206 sw with this video. All the best.
I want to thanak you for this perfectly explained video. I change rear axle on my Peugeot 206 sw with this video. All the best. 👌👍💪
Awesome video. I enjoyed watching this. Thanks for the upload !
spot on video ...perfectly explained mate now got the confidence to attack it myself cheers
informative but missing a few crucial parts. Firstly the removal of the torsion bars are the single most hardest part of the whole job which you didn't cover. You need some powerful gear i.e big blow torch, sledge hammer and a solid steel drift with some good penetration oil to move them. (unless you have an air chisel or a 20kg slide hammer) Also by the state of those bearing 99% the axle pins will have deep grooves in them and will need re machining if you plan to do more than a 1000 miles. if i had any kind of play like that, for the sake of £200 delivered you can have a fully refurbished one. My advice, save up and by a refurbed one.
Very good observation x
This is why one simply replaces the entire rear axle.
Good video. But you failed to mention to take measurements or make marks first before removing the toothed torsion bar.
Great video, thanks for putting it online. I've got this very problem, I can easily manage that now I've seen how to do it. Thanks.
Absolutely brilliant video everything pinpointed perfectly on how to do it your self. Thank you.
Well explained especially for DIY mechanics having limited tooling,thankyou.
Wonderful tutorial! Just changed bearings on my Peugeot yesterday. However you really need a blow torch to move some of those rusty screws and as some people mentioned here before, you may really need a big hammer, blow torch and a lot of anger to make that red torsion bar moving. I almost gave up on the whole job having rear end already taken apart :-D
Excellent video. I need to do this on my 206. I got all the tools and bearings but I only had 4 hours to do it and I did not want to take risks. I use the car 7 days a week. The right side is worst than the left. The right wheel already has some camber. I will give it a go next week.
Spot on video! A lot easier than i thought! Thanks a lot!
Thank you for taking time to do this video very helpful indeed
excellent job my man!,clearly put and boring bits sped up nicely...top job:0)
Good video and after watching it I felt confident enough to tackle the job myself, on hinde sight I wished I never, although it's a good video, theirs a lot missing, main part Ben the removal of the torsion bar.
Brilliant! Explains how to do this very easily. A life saver. Not a difficult as people say by the look?
Muchas gracias. Excelente video. Probablemente el mejor que he visto debido a la explicación detallada. Se ve tan fácil sabiéndolo hacer. Gracias
Watched this, a Great how to . Thanks
You have saved my day with this lesson thank you so much God bless you in Jesus mighty name amen
Brilliantly explained buddy, and much appreciated 🙂
great help using this video. help me loads. keep up the great work.
God bless you, my friend I've been looking for this info a lot, I already subscribed to your channel.
Cheers mate big help took some stress of my mind anyway
Brilliant, well explained and delivered.
Best Vid i found about this! Thanks very much and greets from Deutschland
Perfectly done video tutorial ! Thank you !
Thank you! Very well explained, that I'm starting to feel like a Pro.
Excellent video, that will make my life easier, thanks.
superb video and very well explained thanks
You my friend are awesome, thanks for this video
Far too many experts on here. This lad did OK well done
Awesome step by step guide😎
amazing video!thank you my friend!
great help, made the job easy to do with your vedio, thanks
A very good video, I would suggest using a powerful LED floodlight under the wing, esp. when it's sunny, as it's hard to see the details in the shade (your camera is automatically turning the exposure down) My o/s ARB bracket had snapped off completely near the 13mm bolt, as so the wheel was rubbing on the inside of the wheel arch! (rough roads)
GREAT SIMPLE VID VERY WELL DONE NOW I HAVE TO DO MY WIFES CAR????? THANK YOU AGAIN
thanks soo much for this video, iv subed as its great quality
you pick a lovely day to do it
thanks, helped massively
brilliant video and a very good explained.....thank you
Did this job last week. No garage would touch it. A recon axle was £200 so bought the bearings and got stuck in. It didn't go to plan. Took about 12 hrs to do. The main problem was that my bearings hadn't collapsed. They had seized then tightened onto the shaft. Car cornered great as it basically had no rear suspension. It took hours of heating hammering using pullers etc to get one axle off the other one was not as bad and came off with less sweat. The stupid washer in a groove held in by a torx bolt idea is an absolute nightmare at the end of the torsion bars. One bolt never came out in the end. Never mind all done now but at one point I almost gave up and just set the car on fire !!
One thing to say is that knocking out and putting the new bearings in was the easiest part of the job :)
Firstly - congrats I think this job comes in different flavours of anger looking through various comments.
Quite a few have said they've beaten 7 shades of the thing to get the torsion bar out and when we worked on this is was just a little tricky, it sounds like you got the full FFS treatment.
I hope you treated yourself to a nice beer or 4 after, also must be rewarding to of gotten it done.
Thanks for you video, exelente me ayudo muchisimo
Amazing video....well done
you literally saved my life
Dear Sir.
I have just watched your video on repairing trailing arm bearings, on a Peugeot.
My question is, I have a Citron C5 With the same problem, is the procedure the same?
Any information would be appreciated.
Rod M
I need to say, its perfect this tutorial, u saved my life! Ty so much.
Heco171 ww
Fan bloody tastic!!!
About as crystal clear and simple to understand, follow and implement as a Haynes manual is none of these things🤣
will do cheers mate thank you good video.
Very nice video, thank you!
Excellent vid, thanks.
Thank u ,thank u, thank u for this video. Here in Albania having this problem it means spending a lot of many . Every one says that it is a very dificult think to do. They only sugest to change all the trailing arm. This page is the best!!! I will sugest it to all my friends.Thank u again
It can be a pain but it also can be done, hope this helps you get things sorted.
I forgot to ask do u have a name of the goos brand that makes this part?
Muito bem explicado! Está de parabéns! Me ajudou muito! 👍
Thax for the nice vid
Great video and something I've got to have a go at. Out of interest, how would you go about doing both sides at the same time? The car I'm working squeaks all the time from both sides?
Cheers mate,thank you
How the heck did you remove the torsion bar I see you took it out one end and left it in the other side your working on. It's the only part you left out of this video it's not the worst job your right. But taking the torsion bar out are almost impossible on the deck. Please don't think am having a go what you did is great but need to know how you got the torsion bar of before I go and buy an axle
very good job!!!
Very helpful. Distance between lower arm and body before bush repair was 220mm but after it was 190mm, both sides. Will this be problematic, e.g. with four passengers?
Hi, great video. Do you know of any resources for removing disk brakes in the same manner you removed drum brake? I'd prefer not having to dismantle all the various parts of the brake and just take the whole thing off in one piece similar to how you did with drum brake. Do you know if that's possible?
Thanks grate video =D
This is only half of the job. yes the bearing are knackered but also the pin where bearing slides onto will be worn also and needs replacing
whats that for part then ?
@@larsk7708 www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PEUGEOT-206-98-07-REAR-AXLE-BEAM-TRAILING-ARM-REPAIR-KIT-SHAFT-BEARINGS-RA4/332257481670?hash=item4d5c16d3c6:g:I2QAAOSwa0xfDcL9
nice video, have to change the bearings on my pug 206. Is it possible to remove/delete the middle stabilisator bar? will it have big impact on driving experience, cornering etc? I have seen used/repaired rear beams with removed middle stabilizator bar. How about swapping the needle bearings with self lubricating bronze or plastic bushes? especially the outside bearing, where the axle is usually also damaged.
Hey mate, mine started to knocking in the rear passenger side but it is only when i hit big potholes. How long did you have it since it was really bad? Im not sure if this has to be done right now or can wait till some months. Thanks!
Great video , wondering if it's the same as the citroen xsara n1 ?
The washer in a groove held in by a torx bolt so is it mandatory to get washer off to get torsion bar removed?
400 quid to replace the rear beam is a very good quote, especially as an Imaxle beam runs about 200 just for the part.
Bare in mind inflation that seems more reasonable now, but it was also only a cheap car.
@@CarAndMechanical I think they were still a similar price years back. 15 notes if you're willing to deal with the aggro is great, but 400 for the peace of mind both sides are done and no grazed knuckles is great too, esp. since this is the only big bill you're ever going to get from this car.
Which is easier, replacing the axle beam or axle bearings independantly?
hi there im just about to replace my bushing but on my peugeot I have rear break calipers not drums are they as easy to take off as drums ?
Wow nice video ;)
Ive put new bearing on mine but the trail arm stil moves up down lik springy and when driving is knocking the otherside is solid prob ceased on dos this mean the axel is worn be on repair ive hammerd it on as far as poss but stil moves
so the negative camber of the wheel its caused buy the trailing arm bears ?? or the whole axle. ???
what size drift do you need to tap the outer bearing in
i see you used a 38mm socket, whats the outside diameter
informative vid btw
Fantastic, I just discovered the same problem on my 306 estate and the first thing I read online was some doom merchant insisting it wasn't a home job but needed a refurbished axle. Then I found your video and it's plain to see I will be able to do it myself. Thanks for your steady filming and clear advise, I've subscribed!
And did you get it done yourself?
@@garethjones8047 You know what ,as in the comment below by hease1, the whole kit and caboodle was knackered, so I did follow the "doom"(aka perfectly right!) merchant's advice... refurbed axle fitted. Now if only I could get rid of the horrendous clunk from the front end, on rough tracks. I've fitted everything from new shocks to new engine mounts and all the swively bits inbetween...
@@gravelyvoltas8897 I've owned a 306 dturbo for the past 18 years. Mine has done 221k now and I still use it daily. I'm a hgv mechanic so only really maintain my own cars and friends and family etc. The only front end clocks I've ever had from mine are when the anti roll bar link arms are worn. I have done track rod ends and ball joints a few times during my ownership, also the front wishbone rear P bushes seem to be a weak spot. But it's been an amazing car. Are you sure a little piece of coil spring hasn't broken off at the bottom? I've seen this a few times on various cars where the broken piece sits in the cup and just rattles around.
Just realised you said you fitted new shocks so you would have spotted that.
@@garethjones8047 thanks for your advice. Me agricultural mechanic... Swapped the coil springs onto new shocks 5 months ago, new balljoints, TRE's, lower wishbones, one recon (long) driveshaft, ARB bushes. I now know the LHS driveshaft is on its way out ,but I've still not solved the cause of the hellish loud bang from down low on RHS front as I accelerate up our rough as f**k Hill track. Unless the cheap wishbone's rear bush is so weak it's like a worn out one... ! Any experience with worn subframe bushes Gareth? They SEEM firm..
Absolutely dab tutorial, this is my next job so this video is fab, thanks .. I'm a little confused by having to measure the distance of the bar,I think you said it was 220 mm or something,is that because it fits on splines or something? It makes me think that I could get this bit wrong , I'll research anyway but this is a fab video thanks
Basically you want the height the same after as before if that makes sense. So the measurement before lets you know where it was.
🇨🇱📻👂🎧🎶👋🏻🦕🦖 Gracias
Tengo el mismo problema ojalá pueda encontrar esos rodamientos
Saludos desde chile
No entiendo nada de tu idioma pero esta muy claro el video
Super gemacht
how critical is that distance of 220 mm between trail arm and body? In my case it was 190mm . But noted that my damper life was very much reduced, with the dampers becoming 'frozen'. Could the 30mm difference be responsible?
when would you want to undertake this task? what symptoms would suggest this is needed?
Nice job . But are you sure that the main axle foley is intact ?? Imean . . . The backbone of this PSA rear axle is a big hollow tube and two smaller ones fitted to one side of that . How can you make sure its not bended or ....
J'ai réparer mon essieux arr suivant votre démonstration merci
Hey again just a quik qusten. Will it make sounds if it's have snaped if it's a think?
Its same replacement parts for peugeot 206 2.0 HDI 66 kw 2001 ?
very good video, thank you take it you measured the distance just after unbolting the shock bolt, just before sliding it off the torsion bar?
+Clive Abbott yes that's correct, you should be fine as long as all variables are the same as such, but before is better.
Big video 👍
Hi can you do both sides at the same time ?
I've tried to follow your steps on how to do the bushes but I can't get the bars out
Truly excellent DIY video. Now how does the brake backing plate come off the axel (10:27)? Just undoing the 4 Torx bolts or did you use a 3-arm puller? Cheers.
Sorry for the delay - yep it's undo and pop off...or pry if unlucky job. I think I noted in the video we ended up doing the opposite side but end of the day one side comes off.
Perfect 👍👍👍
Can this be the cause of the rear wheels having negative camber?
Got a Peugeot 306 with a squeaking rear-axle at the left side.It squeaks since a week now and I hope the bearings are dry and not worn.For now I've haven't checked if there's any slack in the arm. Is it possible to drill a hole into the arm and place a grease nipple between both bearings so I can pump some grease in?And do you think it will help?
+Jeroen Louter for the effort you'd need to do half the steps in the video anyway as you could get metal shavings in the arm which would cause more fun.
If your that far might as well do the bearings, is there any play?
I try to remove, but the trailer won't come off. I don't know why.
What is the triangular rubber thing at the top of the thumbnail? I’m replacing back axle and the metal piece under the rubber thing has rusted and needs replacing.
People say that replacing the bearings instead of the whole beam is more difficult and that you can find that the trailing arm bearing housing can also be worn.
So is this true? as your video makes it look pretty straight forward.
Sorry for the delay coming back to you - it's a toss up of effort vs cost and how good the replacement unit is.
Probably easier to replace the unit but might cost more and roll of the dice with the life left in it.
Good one
Would this work on a newer peugeot 106?
I´m looking for replacing the bearing for 206 rear drum brake wheel.
hey ..great work...but I have a question..is this repairing way works for the second side (the left side) too.
thx :-)
Hi, thanks and sorry for the delay in coming back to you. It should be the same for both sides - as seen in the video we didn't get the torsion bar out of the side we were working on so had to get it out from the other side.
Hi I can t get the plate of the antiroll bar off nor can I get the antirol bar tocome out from the other side what do I do am totoally stuck tried with levers etc
A good video, however I do a fair number of these in my job as a mechanic and if the bearings have been worn for ages very often the tube that the bearings fit over will be worn as well, sometimes just fitting bearings will not cure the problem unfortunately. but worth the try and as I said a good video.
+gstree I agree, sometimes it's triage though and this was a close one, but it mainly just needed to be back on the road even if OTR was 10-20k
Is this the same for a Saxo/106 axle?