Aputure VS-2 (7" LCD fieldmonitor) - Hands-on | PLUS: Important hints and LIMITATIONS (!)
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- čas přidán 12. 09. 2024
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CAMERA: Still shooting on a "good old" Panasonic GH2.
(Hacked with the last Long-GOP DrewNET T9 hack.)
LENS: SpeedBooster (C/Y to MFT) + Yashica ML 35mm F2.8
AUDIO: Sennheiser ME2 lav mic (directly into the GH2).
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/ austriangeek
I have a sony a7sii, and just baught this monitor. It doesn't give me fullscreen on the monitor. U know how to fix this?
Go to the HDMI settings and switch of the "HDMI info display" or how its called. Then you´ll get full screen ^^.
Thanks for your review. So you did a pretty good job of trashing the VS-2, which I don't have a problem with. But, I am curious to know what monitor you're using on a daily basis :)
Thx. Well - Actually I still use my good old IKAN VH7i (which also offers nice features like peaking, false colors, pixel to pixel and so on). And I used the FW759 from Feelworld for quite a while (GREAT screen at its price point - I also made a review you can check out). Though: I also need to test the VS-2 FineHD more in detail (which is actually also lying here). It seems like they fixed a few issues there. But I need to check it out more in detail (with the newest firmware, different input signals, according the overall input delay and so on). And l still use it with the older (non 4K compatible) firmware - So I also need to upgrade it first ^^. Btw.: If you want something with more accurate colors (and better shadow / contrast reproduction compared to the Aputure VS-2 and VS-2 FineHD), then I would check out the Feelworld models. For example I also plan to test the new (smaller) Feelworld F570 model. Really nice feature packed (4K compatible) 5.7 inch screen which I am maybe going for to use with my VXF990 / VXF999 camcorder (as there the screen output is not the most accurate / best one) ^^. Have fun shooting (!) LG
I have the Aputure VS-2 Fine HD, the start up is very slow, take around 30 seconds
No problem with the charger in UK! Enough space! ;) Just plug in and charge!
I'm using a canon 70D and it wont display in "full screen"....also your menue looks totally different than mine, do you have a new firmware or anything like that?
twofaces Hmm. I don´t know actually if there´s still a weird HDMI output with the 70D (according the aspect ratios and the overlays) - But as far as I remember it´s not delivering a "clean" HDMI out. You could try out the newest Magic Lantern hacks (which are now also available for the 70D) - There you get normaly the option to "clean up" the HDMI out. Though - I don´t know if it´s already the case with the 70D magic lantern version (as it´s really BRAND NEW - And still in an early alpha state).
On the other hand: If your menue looks different, try to install the newest firmware first ...
Aputure released the V1.2 a few months ago: www.aputure.com/en/V-Screen-VS-2/Update/
Thanks for the fast answer :) I ll update the firmware and hope for the best ^^ would be a bit useless to have a 7" monitor if you cant use those 7" ;)
You´re welcome ^^. According the image coming from the 70D: I think you really need to try out Magic Lantern. It looks like from scratch on there´s always a black border around the image (over the HDMI). =/
AustrianGeek i just managed to get an almost full screen :) just by pressing the "info" button on the camera a few times :D not perfect but good enough for me :)
Ah. Ok. I thought you are already at this state ^^. But you should still get a black border around the image. That is removable with magic lantern (as far as I know). Just try it out if you have time for it ^^.
I watched some of your other reviews, especially on the Lilliput monitors, and they were very good. Just wondering what monitor you would recommend for focusing only - I'm not interested in the other functions. It's for a camcorder (HDC-SD707) that can output 1080/50i/50p HDMI and Component. Would you recommend Component or HDMI output or does it not make a difference at this level of camera/monitor? Thanks.
Thx for your kind words. According a proper screen: As you maybe recognized already it´s not easy to find a good screen in the lower (and the lowest) price range. If you just need a screen for framing, you can also go with a lower resolution screen - Though if you really want to FOCUS manually with it (I don´t know if it´s really usable and working well with the SD707), then it´s also important to look a little bit on the resolution (and the focus assist features). So - Do you really pull the focus point by yourself (on the SD707)? Or did you need it for framing only (so you see better what you´re shooting actually - Incl. colours AND white balance)?
A VERY good option are the MustHD screens - I actually test out the smallest M501H (5") model. Just 800x480 resolution, but the colours, sharpness and clarity is just above average (one of the best in the lower price range I´ve ever seen). It´s also nice, that the factory calibration is already quite good (so it´s also possible with a few minor adjustments, to REALLY SEE what you´re actually filming - With other screens it´s only a guessing - Not with the MustHD M501H).
Though: Two (minor) cons are present (which you can avoid quite easy) - 1st point is, that it´s not perfect with interlaced signals. So if you can output 50P over the HDMI (I hope you tested it out already with your SD707), then it´s not a problem (as it´s working better with progressive signals). BUT: If you can only output interlaced (50i for example), it´s not the best choice (as it adds aliasing to the image -> stepped edges which are lowering the "clarity" of the image). - If you can output progressive over the HDMI - No problem. The 2nd point is the lower resolution (and the limited viewing angle of the TN panel). With progressive singals it´s possible to pull the focus with it quite easily. BUT: If you need to pull the focus the whole day with it, it´s just too small and the resolution is just too low. Also the viewing angles are quite narrow - So you need to look at it with certain angles to get the best image quality) - The simple solution: There are also two bigger models - The M601H and M701H available - Better image and viewing angles (because of their IPS panels) - AND also the resolution is noticeably higher (1280x800 - So they are "real" HD screens). Important point: With the higher resolution they are also more "future proof" if you need to pull the focus with another camera in the future (which only offers manual focus OR where the autofocus is just too weak and you need to pull by yourself). AND the better viewing angle is also "quite nice to have".
The M501H on the other hand is the smallest "out of the bunch" with it´s 5 inches - So it´s quite small and lightweight (AND also the cheapest one with a little bit over 200 bucks). On the other hand: If you can afford it, get one of the bigger models. You will not regret it.
About cheaper options (as I have doubts that you want to invest over 300 bucks in a new screen): There´s also the H056 V2 (OEM model) screen (also with 1280x800 pixels). More rugged - GOOD resolution and clarity. Though not as good image and calibration wise as the MustHD. Also the image has A LITTLE BIT of a ghosting / lag (the MustHD are reacting faster) - I don´t know if you get what I mean. Just google for it if you don´t do so ^^. AND it´s only working perfectly on interlaced signals (so it´s not as future proof as the MustHDs, because new cameras are more and more outputting progressive over their HDMIs).
Also interesting is the brand new Feelworld FW569 / SEETEC ST-669 model (which I also plan to make a review of). It has a nice 7" 1280x800 IPS screen for just 130 bucks. Though: I only got this tip from a other CZcamsr - And never saw it live - But according his information, it matches his MustHD M701H and an older Marshall screen he also has available for comparing quite well (at least it´s not "that far" off - Which is good to hear - As the MustHDs are quite accurate as already mentioned). Though: I don´t know when I have time (and money) to make a review about it.
According the focus assist features: The MustHD are actually using an oversharpening filter (which is also working better while moving the camera / image). The Feelworld has the "classical" peaking (red outlines on sharp areas). BUT: That´s only working well on nearly static shots (to pull from point A to point B). I personally like the oversharpening filters more (as they are also showing low contrast details easier in focus - Classical focus peaking needs a certain amount of contrast difference to work properly ^^.) Oh - And DEFINITELY use the HDMI - Always. You should also see the quality difference on your SD707 - Easily ...
Well - That´s it. Sorry for the long text.
Though -> Hope that helps ^^.
LG
Thanks LG for your very detailed reply - much appreciated.
The camcorder I have has full manual controls for white balance, focusing, peaking (colours the edges blue), histogram, zebra etc. and with full manual audio controls. It's an excellent camera. It can shoot 1080/50p and it outputs 1080p over HDMI but my guess is it's 25p not 50p.
However, the LCD screen is only about 3" which isn't very big when trying to focus. I don't like auto-focus very much - I like to lock down the focus. The camcorder is unusual in that it has a focus ring which can also be used for focus peaking (which makes it very easy). I tend to lock down the aperture, shutter speed etc. to make sure I get the shot I want.
I have a Marshall V-LCD4-PRO-L (4") which I've had since 2006 and it just died on me a few days ago! I only used it for framing as I think the screen is too small for anything else really. I don't rely on the external monitor, even the LCD on the camera, for colours or exposure but just for framing unless of course I have properly calibrated external monitor.
My camera won't output its focus peaking on the external monitor - only the camera's LCD will show this. I was looking for an external LCD that is sharp enough so that I can use it for setting the focus. I wasn't interested in the other functions. If it can be calibrated to give me a close representation of exposure and colour then that's good but not essential.
I was looking at a Lilliput 665/O until I read your reviews on the 663/664. I have been looking at the MustHD screens after you mentioned them. It seems the MustHD M601 is probably the minimum one to get, although, the MustHD M701 looks very good. It's just getting that balance between price and quality. I don't want to buy one today that I have to throw away tomorrow.
I couldn't find the Feelworld ones you mentioned but I did find a FW759 when I tried to search for them. This one was $129, 7" IPS 1280x800 HDMI screen. I don't know how good this one is.
Hello again.
Hmm. About the output type of your camera: Just try it out with a TV for example. There you should see the output type (as soon as the signal is recognized). About focusing: Ok. You focus always at the point and let it there. I was just confused - As the focus pulling on camcorders - incl. the SD707 - is normaly not perfect possible -> Because they all use fly by wire systems - So no direct coupled focus rings / mechanics. For that it´s also better to have a higher resolution (and bigger) screen - Yes. Just keep in mind, that you can also zoom in (with pixel-to-pixel mode for example) for a critical focus positioning (with the MustHD M501H for example). Then the lower resolution isn´t THAT of a problem any more. You can even assign the feature to the small remote which is included - Which you can mount on the tripod handle (or even on a rig-handle). I use for example pixel-to-pixel, focus assist and the freeze frame feature on it - And I like it (as you never need to touch the screen any more). ^^
About the framing / usage in general: Well - According the colours and the white balance, I have to say that the M501H is quite accurate. With a few small adjustments you can also use it to judge that points over the screen too (which is nice to have to be honest). And with the remote you can also jump in to 1:1 pixel mode quite easy (and jump out to use it for framing). Though in general the M601H or M701H is the better investment yes.
About setting focus more easily: Hmm. Keep in mind, that the focus peaking is working normaly WAY BETTER with the camera internal methods / features (as you don´t have the whole image processing, downscaling and the cross conversion to HDMI (and so on) inbetween - You can even use the whole sensor readout to produce it. With external screens (especially if the HDMI output isn´t THAT sharp and perfect), the peaking is also way less accurate (and it shows way too much in focus - Even more than it´s always doing). AND you can only use it for static shots - Don´t forget about this. The oversharpening filter of the MustHD screens and the H056 (V2) is on the other hand better to use, if you have a VERY shallow depth of field - For standard usage with a camcorder, a higher resolution (and the 1:1 pixel mode) is for sure the better way to achieve critical focus. Also because as said already: As soon as you move the image frame / camera, the peaking is gone. I don´t want to scare you / hold you off bying - Just tell you about the limits of the features. So you´re not disappointed with your (possible) new screen. And you know, what´s maybe better to use from scratch on ^^.
Btw.: I hope you know that about the 665/O - 1st: It´s not coming with the advanced features (like peaking and histogram and so on). Only the "P" Model is coming with that (so you would need to get the "665/O/P" model). 2nd point: It´s not a "bigger brother" of the 663 and 664 - It´s kind of the (more robust) bigger brother of the classical "5D-II" model. Basically same features and hardware. Just coming with SDI ports optionally. Only the 663 and 664 screens are more or less the same ^^. The "5D-II" (and so also the 665) is still quite ok I have to say. Only not perfect software wise (as it´s always dropping the calibration with the advanced features enabled - AND it´s also colours and white-balance wise by far not perfect). So if you can find a 5D-II or 665 model "dirt cheap" - Go for them. ^^
If you want to buy something noticeably better and if you want to buy new, get the M601H or M701H yes - For sure the best choice actually (also in your case). Btw.: I don´t think, that the MustHD screens are obsolete as fast as other screen models - Especially not the super cheap ones (which are loosing their value EXTREMELY fast). Also Lilliput for example is bringing always new models (they don´t want to fix existing models / firmwares) - Which is also lowering their value -> It was the case with the 663 model for example. I got the 663/O/P - And simultaniously they brought out the 1:1 identical 663/O/P2 with the new software - Quite annoying yes. Btw.: Always buy what you need NOW - Don´t wait for stuff which is "MAYBE" coming in a few weeks or months. And a good screen today is a good screen tomorrow (or in a year) ^^. The MustHDs are also compatible to the newest progressive HDMI formats (24P, 25P, 30P, 50P and 60P). So you can use them also with new camera models in the future ^^.
About the Feelworld FW-759 btw.: Oh. Sorry. I meant that one. Don´t ask me why I wrote 569 (even at 659 it would have been wrong *g*). However - It´s for sure an OPTION - But keep in mind: As wrote a few lines before, such models are loosing their value quite fast. And normaly they are always a compromise inbetween features, image- and overall quality (including long term stability / hardware quality - The dirt cheap Viltrox DC-70 for example is also a MESS in that aspect - Got now the third message / confirmation, that a unit broke after a little bit of usage -.-). You can try it out if you want - Maybe it´s also enough for your actual usage. Here´s a video about it btw.:
czcams.com/video/4zTb2rwPB_w/video.html
LG
AustrianGeek Thanks again for the excellent information. I find that with some practice, you can get the focusing done very well with the camera's peaking, even on that small LCD - that's of course if you have enough contrast to see it. If you have someone with you, then they can hold something next to the object you want to focus on which has enough contrast so that you can manually focus. I've done that in the past and it's worked well. The more you practice with the camera, the more you learn what the limits are and what methods you can use to get round the problems.
I appreciate what you're saying about how the prices are dropping quickly and new screens are coming along quickly too. I've always tried to buy a little more quality if I can because I think it wastes less time in the long run. I really like the MustHD screens, so, I will keep an eye on them for perhaps a future purchase.
Thanks for the link.
Hmm. Yes. A high contrast object helps. But the problem is, that you cannot rely on that (it´s like with the white balance - If you have a grey card it´s fine - But you cannot use it all the time ^^). Btw.: You´re right - Practice is always important. Even with cheaper video fluid heads for example you can make perfect pans / moves - You just need enough practice. ^^
About invest a little bit more always: A good move. I´ve invested ALOT in super cheap stuff - And to be honest I had to rebuy MANY parts. Just wastes alot of time, energy and also money (as you´re always loosing somthing if you resell stuff). About the MustHDs: Yes. Keep them in mind / on your list. I don´t think there´s coming something compareable / better within the next time (especially not at their price point) ...
Have fun shooting =)
LG
Another great video, AG! Do you know what the differences are between the VS-2 and VS-3? Thanks
THX ^^. About the differences: Well - A few software features are added (false colour, histogram, audio level meters, more peaking colours and so on). And also the hardware is A LITTLE BIT different - You get an HDMI out too for example AND they state that they use a better coating on the screen protection panel. So it should reflect a little bit less than the VS-2 - BUT: I didn´t use the VS-3 til now - So I cannot say that for sure ^^.
LG
Hi there, Do you know if its possible to change the interlaced signal of a Canon 5D MK 2 to use with Aputure VS-2 fine HD?
thank you!
Hmm. As far as I remember the 5D II isn´t compatible to 1080P output (as the resolution is limited). You could try out Magic Lantern though -> And search for the "progressive output" option. Maybe you can achieve at least native 720P output. Btw.: If you want avoid all those issues, just go for one of the Feelworld screens. For example the FW760 or the even newer F7 (both also come with a native 1080P panel - Like the VS-2 Fine HD). And the Feelworld deliver a better picture (even out of the box). ^^
Sehr gute und kritische Reviews!
Ich bin aktuell auf Monitor Suche für Canon Eos 600D, 6D aber auch für die GH4. Also im besten Fall ein "Allrounder-Monitor" und im mittlerem Preisbereich.
In erster Linie für den einfacheren Focus, also unbedingt mit Focus-Peak.
Hatte zuerst den Andoer DC-70, aber da hat mich dein Video dann von abgehalten ;)
Also aktuell schwanke ich zwischen Aputure VS-2 und Lilliput 5D-II /O/P. Was würdest du empfehlen? Oder gibts noch andere Alternativen in dem Preisbereich und beziehbar aus Deutschland?
Liebe Grüße
FRDesign Hmm. Der IKAN VK7i wäre vielleicht ne Option. Gibt´s aber recht schwer (gebraucht) in Europa. Aber Adorama verkauft die gerade in MASSEN über Ebay (in neuwertigem Zustand):
www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_ssn=adorama&hash=item3aaca5ef72&item=252004659058&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=IKAN+VK7i&_sop=15
Muss man dann aber importieren - Die Preise sind aber WIRKLICH gut (und man kann sogar noch nen niedrigeren Preis erhalten wenn man ein Angebot macht ^^). Ansonsten wäre noch der Lilliput 663/O/P2 z.B. Die erste Variante (663/O/P z.B.) war schlecht (überschärftes, nicht richtig kalibrierbares Bild und ein paar andere Fehlerchen bzw. Nachteile - Hatte auch sehr starkes Backlight Bleeding - Siehe Video von mir dazu). Bei der P2 bzw. S2 hat sich das zumindest zum Teil geändert (primär softwareseitig). Die Schärfe lässt sich jetzt zumindest einstellen (hat das komplette Bild des ersten Modells unbrauchbar gemacht). "S2" steht übrigens für die SDI in/out + HDMI Variante und "P2" kommt nur mit HDMI.
Weitere Vorteile beim P2 / S2: Vectorscope, Waveform, RGB Histogramm und Audio Levels - Neben 1:1 Pixel Modus, Peaking, False Colour und normalem Histogram z.B. - ABER der 663 hat DEUTLICH schlechteres Peaking als der IKAN VK7i z.B. (ist viel zu schlecht erkennbar und ist leider auch nicht justierbar / nachkorrigierbar) - UND die technischen Nachteile sind immer noch zum Teil vorhanden - Kein 2.5mm DC Port für externe Akkus - Nur über den XLR Adapter, zu raue Oberfläche die sich schlecht reinigen lässt und er ist WIRKLICH bullig und schwer - Also nichts für "immerdabei".
Habe den 663/O/S2 (bzw. 663/S2) gerade hier (weil ich ihn mal ausprobieren wollte - Ob sich was geändert hat vom alten Modell - Und ich ihn gebraucht günstig bekommen habe). Und ist ganz ok wenn man mit den Nachteilen leben kann. Aber habe wieder Backlight Bleeding UND Musste den fehlenden 2.5mm DC mit einem DK-415 Sony NP-F Dummy "umgehen". Habe einfach selbst ein Kabel umgebaut - Funktioniert ganz gut. Die Akku-Platte rutscht nämlich viel zu leicht raus (hat auch der Lilliput 5D-II/O/P übrigens und fast jeder andere Lilliput Screen). Das nervt irgendwann (wenn man immer direkt Akkus verwenden möchte).
ALLGEMEIN ist der VK7i die bessere Wahl (da von der Qualität einfach besser - Kein Bleeding im Normalfall, bessere Kalibrierung von Haus aus - Den P2 bzw. S2 muss man IMMER NOCH auf 0 Schärfe stellen wenn man ihn bekommt - Nervt schon etwas - Und das Peaking ist deutlich besser). Klar gibt es auch noch andere Modelle - ABER die meisten neueren Modelle haben Probleme mit interlaced Signalen (produzieren Aliasing bzw. Moirés wo keine sind bzw. wo keine wirklich aufgezeichnet werden). Hat auch der VS-2 übrigens - Also definitiv nichts für die 600D und 6D. An der GH4 funktioniert der VS-2 aber ganz gut. Bzw. an progressiven Signalen funktionieren auch die MustHD Monitore SEHR gut (habe ja auch den M501H getestet) - Wohl die best kalibrierten Screens am Markt (um diesen Preis). ABER ebenfalls nicht interlaced kompatibel. Viel sonstige Auswahl gibt es leider nicht. Habe selbst sogar jetzt zwei alte Lilliput 569NP/HO/Y Monitore gekauft, da es die günstigste Möglichkeit ist zwei gute 5" Monitore an zwei Panasonic GH2 Bodies anzuschließen. Alles andere ist zu teuer - ODER funktioniert mit interlaced Zuspielung nicht 100%tig (Viltrox DC-70, Aputure VS-1/-2/-3 und die MustHD - Alle nicht kompatibel, da die Hersteller wohl davon ausgehen, dass alle neuen Kamerasysteme nur noch progressiv ausgeben ^^).
Alternativ kann man natürlich zwei Monitore besorgen. MustHD M601H oder M701H z.B. (für die GH4). Und nen super günstigen Lilliput 5D-II/O/P oder 665/O/P (fast baugleiche Hardware - Nur anderes gehäuse) für die 600D bzw. 6D. Oder eben auch nen Lilliput 569. Bekommt man teils sogar um 60 bis 80€ gebraucht. Ach ja - Viel zu viel geschrieben - Bez. der Frage: Der 5D-II/O/P ist immer noch recht gut ja. ABER damals beim Video habe ich die ganzen Kleinigkeiten noch nicht so bemerkt bzw. teils auch also noch nicht so ausschlaggebend gewertet (bzw. zu der Zeit habe ich auch noch nicht die Kalibrierbarkeit bzw. das Bild genauer getestet). Der 5D-II/O/P hat also auch seine "Fehlerchen" (besonders Softwareseitig - Ignoriert z.B. immer die Kalibrierung sobald man Histogramm, Peaking usw. aktiviert). ABER immerhin ist er mit allen Signalen verwendbar. Und stellt sowohl interlaced als auch progressive Signale richtig dar ^^. Man darf aber auch keine Wunder erwarten. P.s.: Die Lilliput werden übrigens auch oft unter dem WALIMEX Markennamen vertrieben. Heißen dann anders. Aber man erkennt sofort dass es die Lilliput Modelle sind. Diese kommen aber normal OHNE Peaking, Histogramm, False Colour usw. - Also aufpassen. Dafür bekommt man jene aber wirklich EXTREM günstig gebraucht. Peaking haben die IKAN aber das bessere (wenn man das Standard-Peaking möchte). Oder ich habe auch gern die "Überschärfungsfilter" von MustHD (welche teils besser die Schärfe-Ebene anzeigen - Und genauer anzeigen als das Standard-Peaking).
Hmm. Viel zu viel geschrieben. Sorry ^^.
Ich persönlich würde wohl den VK7i nehmen.
Oder die größeren Modelle D5w oder D7w (da jene auch ein Vectorscope, Waveform und RGB Parade anbieten).
Aber die größeren Modelle sind noch DEUTLICH teurer (und gebraucht SEHR SCHWER in neuwertigem Zustand zu bekommen).
Ich hoffe das hilft (und hat es nicht noch verschlimmert) ^^.
AustrianGeek Vielen Dank für die schnelle und vor allem sehr sehr ausführliche Antwort ;-) Mein "Problem" ist halt, dass ich nichts improtieren will (aufgrund Garantie etc.) Also fällt der IKAN leider weg ebenso wie der Must HD. Also werd ich gucken, dass ich den Lilliput 5D-II/O/P oder 665/O/P irgendwo günstig bekomme - wobei hat der 665 auch Peaking? Hab ich jetzt z.b. bei Amazon in der Beschreibung nicht gefunden.
Also der 665 hat nur in der aktuellsten "/O/P" Bauform (bzw. Variante) Peaking. Aber hat er natürlich auch ja (gleich dem 5D-II/O/P). Optional auf www.lilliputdirect.co.uk nachsehen.
Ist der offizielle Lilliput Shop für Europa (zumindest einer davon). Dort bekommt man auch direkten Support von Lilliput (bzw. bekommt garantiert Garantieleistungen).
When i click Record on camera (Panasonic Lumix G7) , then the screen on Aputure goes Black and and says Recording?
I cant see anything on the screen on Aputure while im recording?
That´s a limitation of the camera directly - Try to connect a TV for example - It will show you the same.
The smaller Panasonic cameras normaly don´t come with live view HDMI out (while recording).
Only the brand new successor of the G7 (the G80) is coming with an all-time-on HDMI out (like the GH4.
But those two are the only one which are coming with that feature).
You have two options:
1.) Sell the Aputure screen again (or send it back to the dealer) OR
2.) Change your G7 to the newer G80 model or the GH4.
(Altough the new G80 is the better deal actually as it´s coming with in-body-stabilisation.)
Sorry to tell you that ...
Ohhh Crap:(
Thx Alot for your time and Help.
Is there other camera's then the gh4 that the apurture will work on?
X Ghambary Well - The older ones from Panasonic (GH2, GH3) are outputting live feed HDMI too. But those are not really interesting anymore (according features and image quality). The best option actually is as mentioned the new Panasonic G80 / G81 / G85 (in the US it´s called G85, in the UK G80 and G81 in europe as far as I know).
The points / pros are:
It´s now also coming without time limit - Like the GH4 (the G7 has the 30 min limit in comparison) -> Only limitation: The europe models are still limited (according TAX reasons) - But if you buy the G85 there´s no video recording limit. It´s coming with an internal stabilizer (which is even working in video mode with non stabilised lenses), it has better image quality (because of the missing optical low pass filter on the sensor), there´s now a side loading SD card door (so it´s not at the bottom together with the battery) AND yes - Also the HDMI out is working all the time (also while recording).
It´s outputting just 8bit - Not 10bits like with the GH4. But if you don´t plan to record externally it doesn´t matter ^^. Oh. And there´s also an battery grip available - Beside the more stable magnesium / weathersealed body. Where are you located? US or europe?
There are also other cameras (Sony E-Mount for example or the Olympus E-M5 II also outputs live view HDMI). But I don´t like Sony that much (because they have battery runtime limits, no touchscreens, bad support / warranty service, overheating issues all the time AND also really important: Most of the camera models are way too pricey for my taste). And the Olympus I don´t prefer, because the video quality is still not on par with the Panasonics (as the E-M5 II isn´t offering 4K for example).
Camcorders are btw. normaly also working (according HDMI out). But I don´t know if you really want to change to a camcorder (as it´s a completely different camera style - And you cannot shoot stills with them) ^^ ...
Thx alot..
many choices:)
i live in Denmark:)
Hi AustrianGeek,
if you have tried both, Aputure VS-2 finehd and Lilliput 663/O/P2, which one would you purchase?
thx in advance
Marcello
Yes. Tried both (the VS-2 FineHD is lying on my table a few centimeters aways) - I already started a video (but got sick / lost my voice completely while shooting ^^). The VS-2 Fine HD is ok / good (though still not perfect). It´s better for mobile usage than the Liklliput 663/O/P2 (as it´s smaller and way lighter). And it´s WAY easier upgradeable by yourself (the Lilliput you need to send in for an firmware upgrade). Btw.: Aputure also fixed most points with the FineHD (which annoyed me with the original VS-2). But you still need to calibrate it (out of the box it´s still not usable). Don´t know why Aputure is giving such bad calibration out of the box. ^^
The Lilliput I would choose over the VS-2 FineHD though if its a fixed screen in a studio for example. Waveform is really nice to have (for greenscreen work for example - To evenly light the backdrop) - Or RGB Histogram is nice to whitebalance REALLY fast (not 100% accurate - But more or less accurate). RGB Parade would be better - But that´s not included in the Lilliput models (and also not with the VS-2 FineHD). Overall its REALLY tough (the 663/O/P2). But it´s also quite heavy. And it has the pro, that you can use 1:1 pixel crop mode (without any image degradation). With the VS-2 FineHD you get a FullHD Panel. BUT: The quality gain is marginal (don´t expect wonders) ^^. AND: There´s no way to make a center crop with the 1080P panel (if you input a 1080P signal). You need to use the zoom on the FineHD. Not a big deal - Just want to mention it (if you use that all the time).
Btw.: I hope you don´t need a screen for interlaced signals.
As for that the FineHD is still BY FAR not usable.
(Also the new FineHD model produces a HORRIBLE interlaced image!)
I think I made the choice even harder - Did I? - Sorry ^^.
LG
thanks for your thoughtful answer, AustrianGeek ... and yes :) you made it harder :)
just another one if you are so kind, regarding focus peaking and "screening" delay (time difference from the real scene and the screen) which one would you stick to??
(I hope you are doing better and if you are going to do a review on both comparing them, I ll rather wait for it to decide)
Hmm. The overall input / output delay is more or less the same with both screens (AND it´s on a quite low level with both). More important is often the delay, which the camera adds from scratch on (especially 4K cameras with 1080P output add more delay through the downscaling process which is needed to get 1080P out of the HDMI - While recording 4K internally) ^^.
So maybe test that out with a normal TV set (and also check if the output is working anyway - Many people buy a screen altough they never testet the HDMI output of their camera before). Then you can also test the delay (if it´s usable for you or not). For stills applications it´s often too much (the overall camera output delay + monitor delay). But test it out before - You just need a compatible cable and an HDMI capable TV.
Btw. - What camera are you using?
(And for what purpose you plan to get a field monitor?)
I am planning to use it on a Canon 7D and kind of documentary filming, not studio
I guess the Aputure may be more appropriate due to weight, boxing, etc, but I guess the software capabilities (histogram, zebras, volume leds, etc) the Lilliput one would be more powerful and versatile.
I really appreciate your comments.
Oh. A Canon 7D - Then forget about the Aputure VS-2 FineHD. It´s HORRIBLE with interlaced signals (the one huge weakness of the VS-2 FineHD). As far as I know the 7D is only outputting interlaced (1080i) - So it´s just not working as it should - Even if you use magic lantern. Maybe better check out the new Feelworld FW760 (also nice features overall - But the important part -> It+s PERFECTLY displaying interlaced signals which you need). And it´s also really affordable and coming with nice features like peaking, histogram, zebras and so on). Maybe the best choice in your case (as its also super lightweight) ...
The Lilliput btw. is nice yes. But the FW760 delivers a better image (higher resolution and the factory calibration is better from scratch on than any Lilliput I ever had). Beside that: The Lilliput 663/O/P2 is just too heavy and bulky for documentary work (in the field). Always keep in mind: Less is more (as it makes no sense to buy big / bulky equipment and then you leave it at home because it annoys you, using it in the field ^^).
Btw.: You could also check out the Atomos Ninja Blade. It´s a 5" panel device (with recording function). But it´s also a nice display replacement (as it´s also offering Waveform, Peaking, Zebras and even RGB parade -> Which is a DREAM to use for white balancing, greenscreens and to check the overall brightness levels of your image ^^). It´s also quite cheap available already (I got mine for 400 bucks for example with two hard drives). Only keep in mind that it´s more prone to dust (in field) AND that it´s again a little bit heavier than a normal screen.
OVERALL I think you should go for the FW760 (especially before I give you additional recommendations and confuse you even more) ^^
Have a nice day.
I just bought this screen that I use with my GH4. Im extremely disapointed because I can't playback the recorded videos on the screen.
Did you try to fixate the HDMI output to 1080P (and not let it on "Auto")? Maybe its trying to output 4K resolution over HDMI (which isn´t supported by the VS-2). Btw.: I am not talking about the "HDMI REC output" where you can set the downconvert (in the video menu) - If I remember right you need to choose the playback resolution (in the main settings menu - The one where you also set the time, format the card and so on). LG
@@AustrianGeek The HDMI setting you mention is in the menu of the Apurture monitor ?
@@AustrianGeek I put the HDMI REC output settings of my GH4 as follow:
bit mode 4:2:2 8 bit
info display : ON
4D down convert: 1080P (previously on "auto")
Also on the menu of the aputure monitor I have activated (on) the HDSLR mode that was previously OFF.
Now when I click the play button on my GH4 I see the recorded video on the screen of the monitor but there is now way to play them, there is no "Play" button. I only see the screenshot.
Oh. That you mean ^^. Lets start with the GH4 settings: The setting you chose in the REC output are now correct for the screen (so its working guaranteed also while recording on the VS-2 and other only 1080P accepting screens). But what I meant by HDMI output settings is the main settings menu, "TV Connection" - And "HDMI Mode (Play)". You can also fixate there 1080P as output resolution - The output would then also work guaranteed on every 1080P capable screen. Its not a must have to change that too - But you can also fixate it to 1080P if you want to ^^. What you need though (to play back the images on the GH4) is the Play button ^^. Its the UP-Button on your cameras navigation wheel (the UP-Button, you also use to navigate though the menues and all the other settings). If the video is playing and you press the button again, its behaving as the Pause button. Btw.: To play videos in the video overview (if there are more scenes shown as a list, you need to select one of the videos first so its full screen - Then you can start the playback with the up button. In the overview with more scenes its used to navigate up in the overview - So you need to choose one with the middle "OK" button). Hope that helps ^^.
Btw.: The HDSLR mode is not needed for the GH4 (please disable it again in the monitor menu). ^^
so i shouldn't purchase this video monitor for my canon 7d mark ii? Would it suffer under 60p?
Edwin Lee Well. The 7D Mark II is capable of outputting progressively over the HDMI - Right? At least then the VS2 shouldn´t produce aliasing and moiré (like with interlaced signals). But the colours are always a mess (it´s not calibratable at all). So IF it´s capable of outputting progressive signals (1:1) on the HDMI (test it out with a TV for example if the TV is showing 1080i or 1080P), then better check out the MustHD screens. M601H or M701H (or the new cheaper 7" M700H). They offer multiple times better colours from scratch on.
If size and weight isn´t a matter - You could also go for the new(er) Lilliput 663/O/P2 model. They fixed a few "quirks" and now the V2 is quite usable (IF you dial down the sharpness and adjust the colours a little bit by yourself - Still horrible factory calibration ^^). The 663/O/P2 also offers nice features (you normaly see in screens above 1000 bucks). BUT: It´s pretty huge (and I LOVED the remote feature on the MustHD M501H I reviewed a fews weeks ago).
BUT check out the signal output of you camera first. As the MustHD screens are also not working perfectly with interlaced signals (like the VS-2 reviewed in this video here). Only with progressive signals the MustHD screens "shine" ^^.
Hi, how did you switch from interlaced to progressive? My camera is set to shoot in 1080p but the monitor shows 1080i straight out of the box and I can't find an option to change it in any of the menus? Thanks.
Which camera do you have?
You need to change it on the camera ^^.
Hi, I've got a Canon c100 Mikita and have been trying to reset it on the camera too but just can't figure it out...
Mark iI, not Mikita!
Go to: gdlp01.c-wss.com/gds/8/0300017408/04/eosc100-mk2-im4-en.pdf
On page 135 is a table with internal / external framerates (to see what the camera outputs with which codec option).
As you can see in the table -> If you record 24P internally, you only get 1080i output (it´s a limitation of the camera).
You need to choose 50P/60P internally (and switch the HDMI to [+1920x1080 50.00P / 59.94P] mode from [Normal].
Under Menu -> Video Setup -> HDMI -> Output). Only then it´s outputting progressively over the HDMI ...
Hi, that explains it then, and was really helpful of you to find that out for me, I appreciate it. I'm off to give it a go! Thanks again!
Hello, did you try the component input? Can you see it in 16:9 and 4:3? Does all the assistant functions work with component input? Thank you for the video.
Unfortunately not - sorry. But it should be able to display both formats (16:9 and 4:3 over component). The assist features should also work. (As those are only image overlays - It´s not important from which source they are coming.) THOUGH: Don´t expect wonders according focus peaking for example. The resolution is way too limited from the component input. And it could also include more aliasing and moiré than it´s really the case (recorded within the camera). (The scaler has it´s problems with non progressive signals - Btw.: Also the case with the newer VS-2 Fine HD model ...)
Ok thank you so much!
HELLO AUSTRIAN GEEK! I HAVE A GH4 AND I ONLY SHOOT ON 4K. I GOT THE VS-2 FINEHD A WEEK AGO AND I HAVE FOUND THAT THERE IS A SECOND LAG FROM THE CAMERA IMAGE TO THE MONITOR. IT MAKES IT VERY HARD WHEN FOLLOWING MOVEMENT SINCE THE REAL IMAGE HAS AT TIMES LEFT THE FRAME IF IM LOOKING AT THE SCREEN. ANY SUGGESTIONS? I WONDER IF THAT IS A COMMON THING, THANK YOU!
+Guzmán Rosado Nosti Hello there. Hmm. One second is definitely too long. The GH4 has about 4 frames of lag on the HDMI (which I know because I am using the GH4 now with an Atomos Ninja Blade and there you need 4 frames to sync the HDMI video signal with the analog audio input of the Blade). Which settings are you using? 1080P output with 4K internal mode I guess. Is also the timecode enabled (and HDMI rec control)? Maybe that´s causing problems with the VS-2. And did you activate the 1080 30P mode on the 2nd page of HDMI output settings (where you also adjust the 4K downsampling)? Btw.: Try it with another screen - If there´s also about the same lag, then it´s definitely the GH4 (or it´s settings). ^^
+AustrianGeek I HAD TO CHANGE THE SYSTEM FREQUENCY FROM 25.OOHZ TO 59.94HZ IN ORDER TO ACCESS THE 2ND PAGE OF THE HDMI SETTINGS WHERE I COULD THEN CHANGE THE OUTPUT TO 1080/30P. IT SEAMS TO BE A LITTLE BETTER, ABOUT 0.20SEC, ABOUT 4.8 FRAMES LAG. YOU MENTION THAT THIS WAS A STANDARD LAG EVEN WITH ATOMOS. I THOUGHT RETURNING THE VS-2 TO GET THE NEW ATOMOS NINJA FLAME. WHATS YOUR TAKE IN THAT. PRO RES MAKES SENSE OVER INTERNAL RECORDING? ITS A $1000 DIFFERENCE. LOOKS LIKE A JOY THOUGH!
THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR YOUR QUICK REPLY, IT WAS REALLY HELPFUL!
PS: I TRYED IT WITH MY BMPCC AND THE LAG IS A LITTLE BETTER... OF COUSE THERE IS NO DOWNSAMPLING FOR 1080P
+Guzmán Rosado Nosti Ah. Ok. At least it´s now better. About 4 Frames is normal yes. That´s also due to the 4K to 1080P downscaling (and the GH4 internal processing). So it´s basically coming from the GH4 (and not the screen) - At least most of it. I never had the chance to check out the delay on a 4K capable recorder (maybe it´s a little bit less). But for sure the difference is not that much (as there´s always a delay on the HDMI output). About the Ninja Flame: Hmm. It needs time to check out the new models (especially according the new panel types - Because: In the sample videos I saw a little bit of backlight bleeding already - Which is often a problem of such super bright screens. So for indoor use a Ninja Assassin or Shogun is maybe the better choice. The new dual battery is nice yes. But if you use an external battery with the DC port (and one battery directly on the Assassin for example), then you also get a backup battery solution (and the prices are for sure falling -> For both - The Assassin AND the Shogun). ProRes makes sense - Though I use primarily DNxHD (in the highest 220x 10bit mode) - As I don´t want to deal with the ProRes gamma shift problems on Windows (which is still the case with a few encoders & tools). On MAC it´s fine though (ProRes). FEATURES wise the ATOMOS devices are nice - Don´t want to miss the Waveform and RGB parade anymore (which I get over my Ninja Blade now). And "real" 10bit 4:2:2 is nice to have ...
you dont seem very convinced with this screen, for about 200USD or under what would you suggest ?
IBRAHIM Ahmaid No. I am not THAT convinced with this screen (sold it already). It´s by far not perfect (especially the offset colours, the missing interlaced compatibility AND also the battery indicator are a mess). In general I would choose following screens:
5" for interlaced only cameras -> Lilliput 569/O/P or the older 569/HO/Y (or how they are called). Why? Because these are fully compatible to interlaced signal cameras (and though the resolution is quite low (800x480) they are DIRT CHEAP available sometimes. I even bought two of the older ones (the /HO/Y not the /O/P) for my two GH2s for just 160 bucks - Both together (Why? Because many new screens are not working any more with interlaced signals - As I found out in the last few months). They produce moiré and aliasing - The Viltrox DC-70 had that problem, the MustHD M501H screen AND also the VS-2 from Aputure wasn´t usable on the GH2s. Though: Keep in mind, that the 569 isn´t compatible with progressive 24P, 25P and 30P signals (only 50P and 60P) (!) So not fully "future proof".
5" for progressive capable (or 24P, 25P, 30P output) cameras -> Then I would go for the MustHD M501H (check out the review) or the bigger models (M601H or M701H - Though they are pricier - I know). Nice features - LOVED that remote feature. The M501H also produced nearly perfect colours from scratch on (!) Nice remote feature (which you can mount on your tripod or rig handle quite easily - Nearly never touched the screen any more). BUT: It´s completely UNUSABLE with interlaced signals (had one of the M501H here and sold it too - Because it was also unusable with my GH2s. Just keep in mind: I also tested it with a GH4 and a VG30 - It´s REALLY nice with progressive signals (quite clear image reproduction for a 800x480 screen). So if you have a camera which is capable of outputting progressive signals (natively) - Check out the MustHD screens (they also offer now the M700H screen - 1024x600 7" - Maybe also an option). Huge pro: The MustHD screens are 24P, 25P and 30P compatible. So more "future proof".
Other screens bigger than 5" (and with higher resolutions than 800x480 or 1024x600) -> Just check out the IKAN VK7i or the newer 663/O/P2 (or 663/O/S2). The IKAN has a good standard calibration (and good overall quality & features). And the 663/O/P2 (or the SDI 663/O/S2 model) are now also really usable. The older models (/O/P and /O/S) were really crap (as the image sharpening wasn´t controllable with the older firmware editions - So DEFINITELY only go for the P2 or S2 if you´re buying one as you ALWAYS need to dial down the sharpening by yourself - They ALWAYS deliver a completely offset / wrong calibrated screen -.- ... Always dial down the sharpness to zero as soon as you get a Lilliput screen ^^). The new V2 models are btw. quite usable (I have the 663/O/S2 aka 663/S2 model here actually for a 2nd try / 2nd test after the original 663/O/P abd 664/O/P desasters). The V2 is not 100% perfect as always - But at this price nearly unbeatable features wise (didn´t like the 1st version primarily because of the REALLY BAD oversharpened image and the bad backlight bleeding I had with my screen). The quality is still only "average" (backlight bleeding wise also the 663/S2 suffers from it - A little bit). But hey - You cannot get everything for such a low price. At least you get Vectorscope, Waveform, RGB histogram and audio level meters at such a low price. The next step is the IKAN D5w or D7w (if you want these features) - And these screens are priced double to TRIPLE (!) Also keep in mind - there´s still no 2.5mm DC plug on the 663/O/P2 and S2 (only XLR to 2.5mm adapter). And the coating is still like sandpaper (and quite hard to clean). But they fixed at least a few of the firmware "quirks".
Oh. I forgot to mention: The IKAN screens are in general a little bit "pricier" - BUT quality wise also on a higher level overall. Especially image quality and factory calibration wise they are noticeably better (the reds on the 663 are always offset for example - So don´t trust it completely according the colours - And the IKAN normaly also don´t suffer from severe backlight bleeding - Which seems to be standard with the Lilliput 663 and 664 models).
Btw.: There´s a VERY good deal actually at Adorama USA (if you´re located there) - They are selling "like new" VK7i screens / packages for just 250 to 280$ on Ebay (instead of 499$ new):
www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_ssn=adorama&hash=item3aaca5ef72&item=252004659058&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=IKAN+VK7i&_sop=15
So if you can put 50 to 80$ on top of the 200, DEFINITELY go for such a kit if you´re located in the US. ^^ The IKAN VK7i is also 24P, 25P and 30P compatible (as far as I know).
Sorry for the long text - Should have mentioned that at the beginning - Not at the end. But at least you now also know about a few alternatives. =)
Thanks for the detailed answers, checking the ones u mentioned right away
Great video! Which would you choose out of the this and the Lilliput 665GL-70NP/H/Y ?
thanks!
+elkwyre Hmm. I think I would choose the Liliput - Just a few points which are important:
The 665/O/P is basically the same unit als the 5D-II/O/P from Lilliput.
Just repacked in another case more or less (the panel and features are the same).
But keep in sight, that only the 665/O/P or 665/P model is coming with peaking, histogram and co.
The older 665GL-70NP/H/Y Model is hardware wise the same. But it´s not coming with the advanced software features.
Btw.: Also check out the Feelworld FW759P model.
It´s coming with a higher resolution (1280x800), an IPS Panel (instead of the TN of the Lilliput) and it´s lighter (and cheaper).
I have the smaller "brother" here actually (FW759 without the P - So without Histogram for example). And It´s quite nice.
Should be also on your list - Definitely the cheapest 1280x800 IPS screen on the market (which is REALLY usable). ^^
+AustrianGeek Many thanks for the information! Ill look into these based on your recommendations. :))
Hey the VS-2 says it has a headphone input for monitoring audio but when i plug in the headphones there is no sound?
+Vince Tang Hi there - You need to go to the menu, other settings and raise the volume up from zero.
OR: There´s also the case that you don´t get any audio from your camera - Some cameras are not outputting the audio over HDMI (GH2, some Canon bodies and others).
Some also need to be configured (try to search for audio over HDMI or such kind of setting in your cameras menu). Hope that helps ^^.
Hi, would this monitor work ok with the csnon 70d and the 700d ?
Thanks in advance
Stephen Leathwaite Yes. It is working flawlessly on both according the signal types (according RECOGNITION of the signal). But: The VS-2 is not perfectly working with 1080i signals (1080P signals are WAY clearer). I am not 100% sure if they are both outputting 1080P (or just 1080i like the older Canon cameras). I think both are outputting 1080P signals - But I am not a Canon user (and never had a 70D or 700D by myself - At least not long enough and / or just borrowed ^^).
If you want to be sure, just plug in the cameras into a TV or computer monitor (with HDMI in or an HDMI to DVI / DisplayPort adapter). Why? Because there you can check out the output types (according clean output, overlays - which you can remove with the info button btw - AND you can also check for black borders around the image, which are also the case sometimes with Canon bodies - I think the 70D is outputting such a black border around the live view image). Btw.: Check them out while recording - As it´s important that the output is working while it´s recording internally.
With 1080P on both you can choose the VS-2. If not, then maybe check out other screen models. (Like the H056, Lilliput 5D-II/O/P, Lilliput 665/O/P or the quite nice and now "issues fixed" Lilliput 663/O/P2 ^^.)
Thanks for a great reply will test.
I want to use the sony PXW-x70 camcoder 4.2.2 - 10bit - 1920 x 1080
The video image would be continuous aputure VS-2 1920 x 1080 50p?
Hi there. Yes. The X70 supports progressive output over the HDMI. You can even select 24P or 50P/60P output (if you´re recording 24P internally). Just check out the manual ^^.
Btw.: The VS-2 accepts both (24P natively AND 50P/60P). So you can select more or less what you want (or which output is looking better & smotther on the VS-2). ^^ Though keep also in mind: The VS-2 only has 1024x600 pixels - Which is quite ok. Just don´t expect it to give you the full resolution (1080P) on the panel.
Btw.: If you want that (full 1080P 1:1 pixel output on the external screen), maybe wait for the official SmallHD 502 screen release -> It´s a brand new 5" model with advanced software features and with SDI / HDMI and a "real" 1920x1080 LCD panel - It´s even offering the mechanically more stable SDI input - Which you also have on your PXW-X70. Not THAT cheap as always for SmallHD - But if you can afford it, maybe an even better choice & solution (as it´s also damn small and lightweight for a 5" model) ^^.
AustrianGeek Thank you very much for the detailed advice.
I'll wait for the new monitor, which is recommended.
expected price SmallHD 502 ?
It Will Be 7" ?
The SmallHD 502 will be a 5" model. But I personally like that size (as it´s not too small or too big - Just something "inbetween") ^^. The price isn´t released til now. But it´s for sure above 500$ (so not super cheap - As said before).
If you want something cheap(er) NOW which is offering even better resolution than the Aputure VS-2 (i reviewed in this video) and which is also offering a better factory colour calibration (and other nice features for a good price), check out the MustHD M601H or M701H screens.
The M701H is a 7" model with 1280x800 resolution - And it´s also compatible to 24P, 25P and 30P outputs. So also as future proof as the VS-2 screen (as more and more cameras are outputting native progressive signals). And you get a nice remote control, which you can use to enable and disable the software features remotely (on your fluid head handle or even on your rig handle for example - So no need to touch the screen any more to enable the focus assist, 1:1 pixel zoom and so on ^^). Btw.: The M601H is a 5.6" 1280x800 model - So a little bit smaller (if you want something more mobile).
If you want to wait for the SmallHD: It should get released (fully incl. prices) at the NAB show in a few days / weeks. So stay tuned ^^.
AustrianGeek Very dear!
Thanks for the detailed info!
Now have you tried the V2 FINE which might address some of your issue with the older monitor
Still had no time to test it out more precise.
AND: Actually I made a video about the RX10 II yesterday (about the limitations, which are not that widespread). Should be online today ^^. I hope, that I can make the VS-2 FineHD Video soon. (The problem is a little bit, that I need time to test it more in depth - And I also need to calibrate it as good as possible - Which also takes its time.) But overall it still looks not THAT much better than the VS-2. Still way off colours (at least at the standard settings). Let´s hope, the calibration helps ... Otherwise there´s at least the new Feelworld FW760 (also with a Full-HD panel) ^^.
I have a hard time thinking any of these low priced panels are going to be calibrated properly. Adjusted yes but true calibration... seriously doubt that. Plus outside there is so much light infiltration that you should not use a monitor for absolute perfect color reproduction. Again, you are the only person to point out that the zebra settings actually move with the internal settings change rather than input signal changes alone. But for around 200 I think these are adequate monitors. I'll have a look at your RX10 video when it is out .. Never heard of Feelworld but they appear to be cheaper but small kit . It seems to be available here at a modest price mind you.
michael b Well - The FW759 is quite ok at it´s price point I have to say. Btw.: I didn´t check it there (as the calibration is really good from scratch on and I only had the standard FW759 model). BUT: Someone reported, that also with the "advanced features" FW759P model, the zebras are moving if you change the settings.
So you´re right - REAL calibration is often not possible with the super cheap models. But if a model is at least as accurate as possible from scratch on (and you need to adjust just a tad / a little bit), then it´s I think ok for most people. Even if the Zebras are off for one or two points (IRE wise) because of the small calibration.
Btw.: Have a look at them (Feelworld). At least the FW759 I reviewed / testet was really nice (at that low price point). Nothing to shoot outdoors - But really good and bright outdoor screens are from scratch on multiple times more expensive (and most of them are resolution- and features-wise by far not on par anymore - At least not the cheaper options).
The funny thing -> Often it´s even better to go for an external recorder instead of a normal monitor (Shogun Flame or Ninja Flame for example - With their 1500 nit screens). I also went for the older Ninja Blade, because it´s the cheapest 5" option with at least 1280x720 resolution and RGB parade / waveform (PLUS the option to record perfect 1080P with a GH4 and V-LOG) ^^.
Yes I did see the Feelworld video.. weird name... and truthfully it kinda looked like the same panel as the Aputure stuff but with a different name and software. Strangely enough the Feelworld is not as available online as the Aputure. I would say from my experience in the field I would prefer some sharpness over color calibration. If you think about it, and I know you certainly do alot of that, you realize that many people are shooting LOG or just flat images so color accuracy is not nearly as important to me as sharpness/framing. But for value I would say either of the two full HD monitors will be adequate for general shooting. The Aputure has a better kit in the VS2Fine so that is a plus. In all they seem like just cheap throw away monitors that will be satisfactory for a couple years or so. Too bad there is no useable film that attaches to either monitor to make them less reflective. I think that is the biggest killer for these two.
I certainly agree with your philosophy of buying a mature technology like the Blade vs a newer more hi res monitor. The Atomos are quite battle tested but too pricey for me so perhaps I will take your advice and buy an older Ninja Blade. The new BM field recorder, Video Assist 4K, is quite pricey and has some issues from what I can see.
Yes. The Feelworld are not that widespread. But you can get them (if you really want to) ^^. About colours vs sharpness: Yes. That´s true. Altough: I hope, that the VS-2 FineHD hasn´t the same interlaced issue like the old VS-2 I tested had. That´s also important (because many cameras are still outputting interlaced in some recording modes - Also the GH4.
About LOG: That´s true. Altough it´s like with the interlaced input (which looked horrible on the VS-2): You maybe don´t need it all the time. But if you need it, it´s good to have it ^^. For example: I also don´t shoot all the time V-LOG on the GH4. I often just use the natural profile (at least without the Ninja Blade). And also with sony cameras you cannot shoot S-LOG all the time (especially because of the higher standard ISO and because of the limitating 8 bit codecs). Btw.: The kit of the Aputure is nice yes (battery + charger + case and so on). But you also pay more for them ^^.
About the Atomos: Yes. The new models are also too expensive for my taste. But they offer at least the new HDR mode (to compensate most common LOG profiles). It´s working quite ok I have to say. And they also offer now the new firmware for the Ninja Blade - So it´s a really good deal. Just keep in mind: It´s bulkier than a normal screen. AND you cannot ZOOM the image with the Ninja Blade. Sometimes quite handy (if you need to pull the focus). But hey - You get more than enough for under 400 bucks I think ^^. I like especially the RGB parade to white balance (and to check clipping in the colour channels). Just enable it, hold the camera to a 18% grey card and you can easily level all three channels for a perfect white balance ^^. If you have a GH4 with V-LOG -> There it´s also nice to have (RGB Parade and Waveform), because the sensor is clipping at 80 IRE.
Nice tool overall ...
I can't find out if it has waveform available. I don't think so, but maybe there is an update available?
Nope. Also not on the newer VS-2 FineHD model with native 1080P capable LCD panel. The Aputure VS-5 and VS-5x has it though. Or you can also search for other models: The older IKAN D7w or D5w for example (they are quite cheap available used from time to time) - Or the brand new SmallHD Focus - Or the (quite huge and heavy) Lilliput 663/O/P2. But you can also go for a used external HDMI / SDI recorder. For example all Atomos 7" recorders offer vectorscope, waveform and RGB parade. I used the Ninja Blade (5" - 1080P) model for quite a while to get RGB Parade and Waveform. And I used it also very often only as an external monitor. I also really miss the RGB parade feature with most monitors (especially the cheaper ones) - It´s GREAT to have for manual white balancing. And you can see exactly when your sensor is clipping (with the GH4 it was quite a "life safer" when using V-LOG). LG
Thank you very much for your fast reply and the options you provide.
What better screen can you get for this price range?
André Rijo Please check out the answer I sent "IBRAHIM Ahmaid (Naji)" about a day ago.
Actually Adorama is selling the VK7i (from IKAN) quite cheap in like new condition - So check it out - Great deal (as it´s normally sold for around 500 bucks!):
www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_ssn=adorama&hash=item3aaca5ef72&item=252004659058&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=IKAN+VK7i&_sop=15
AustrianGeek Thanks!!! Just bought it :)
Can I still record in 4K with my Sony A7s Mark ii with this attached?
+moose Sure. You just need to set the HDMI output to 1080P (even the "AUTO" setting should recognize it right).
Though: Would check out the quite new Feelworld FW759P instead (a test video is online in my channel since yesterday).
OR you could also check out the newest Aputure VS-2 FineHD edition (with full / native 1080P capable IPS panel).
Maybe it´s one of the screens I will check out next - Hope they fixed most of the issues.
P.s.: The FW759P is many times more colour accurate than the VS-2 (and VS-3).
(At least with the firmware editions I used.) And it´s also coming with an 1280x800 IPS panel (at a cheaper price point).
+AustrianGeek Thank you very much!
When you hate the aputure but they make you do a review on it 😂😂
*g*. Nope. I bought it by myself - So no review unit. They would have regretted it (sending me the unit in this state). ^^ But hey - Some of the issues are maybe fixed now (as it´s firmware upgradeable by the user directly - Over the USB Port and a USB stick). Though: The interlacing issue and the quite bad colours are for sure still a problem. I have the VS-2 FineHD lying here for example. Better in many ways than the original version - But still: Not THAT good colours (even after calibration) and still having the same interlaced signal issue, where it adds moiré and aliasing to the picture - Which is quite annoying. There are still many cameras only outputting an interlaced signal over the HDMI (and most people don´t even know what exactly the HDMI is outputting). Not without any case I like the Feelworld screens. Good stock colours and calibration - PLUS: Absolutely no issues with interlaced signals (or progressive signals which are packed into an interlaced stream - PsF = progressive segmented frames). I like Aputure (especially their lights) - But the monitors are by far not their strongest department ^^.
Do like this better then the H056?
To be honest - NO. The H056 is working WAY better with interlaced signals, offers a higher resolution from scratch on (1280x800 vs 1024x600), a WAY more rugged enclosure, it´s better calibratable AND I also like the not THAT reflective panel more.
But keep in mind, that the H056 (V2) is NOT working with all progressive modes flawlessly -> As it´s adding more ghosting as soon as you´re using a progressive source (and it has a little bit of image ghosting from scratch on). So just use it with interlaced sources (or sources, where you can select an interlaced output as an option).
Btw.: If you have a GH4, A7s, Blackmagic Pocket or any other camera, where it´s possible (and sometimes necessary) to have a fully progressive compatible screen, better check out the MustHD models. Especially the M601H or M701H are feature wise actually the most interesting ones (not THAT dirt cheap - I know - But worth every cent). At least the M501H I have now here is one of the best calibrated screens I´ve ever seen (though that model just uses an TN panel - Which is even more impressive then) - Needed just minor adjustments to match my GH2.
AND even more impressive: At least the M501H is working EXTREMELY well with progressive signals (I tested it out with a GH4) - But it has the same problem as the Aputure VS-2 -> It´s also adding aliasing to the image (which is lowering the image "clarity") when using it with interlaced signals. So use the MustHDs only in progressive mode if possible ^^. Overall built-quality is btw. also better than on the Aputure - Though it´s not as rugged as the H056 - AND I like the remote feature on the MustHD screens (so there´s no need to grab the screen any more - Just use the remote to enable and disable software features).
So you see - Every screen has it´s pros and cons ^^.
AustrianGeek Thank you!
It is working with Nikon D7000??
Hi there. Should work yes. But don´t forget to disable "Device control" to OFF in the HDMI menue of your camera (otherwise it´s not outputting a live feed over the HDMI). Btw.: You can also modify your D7000 to higher video bitrates, clean HDMI out (so no control overlays shown), remove the video record time limit and so on. Check it out here: simeonpilgrim.com/nikon-patch/nikon-patch.html (and check out the infos here: nikonhacker.com/).
Btw.: Keep in mind, that with the overlays (of the original firmware from Nikon) you only get a non widescreen Image (you just get the same image as on your screen) - So on a 16:9 screen like the VS-2 you get then black bars left and right of your image (you need to hack your body to get full 1080P or 720P output over the HDMI). Also keep in mind, that the VS-2 don´t produce the best image with interlaced signals - So try to output a progressive signal if you can (maybe also check it already with the original firmware).
I don´t have a D7000 here (hacked / modified) to test the HDMI output.
So you need to check this by yourself ^^.
Hope that helps ^^
LG
AustrianGeek Thanks for the quick response! Very helpfull!! Cheers!
AustrianGeek I start using the monitor. Working good... but i have only one problem... The video does not fill the screen... how can i set up?
Don´t forget the Hack (which enables the full screen image without overlays). Without you maybe only get the 4:3 or 5:4 image on the HDMI out, which is also shown on the LCD screen of the D7000. ^^
LG
AustrianGeek The Hack is safe? Like the Magic Lantern on Canon DSLR's? I don't wanna fuck up my camera befor my California trip XD
if i shoot 60p will it work?
As far as your camera outputs 60P over the HDMI -> Then YES. But better check out the newer VS-2 FineHD model instead of the older non-FineHD (it got alot of fixes and also a few new features). Or check out the even cheaper Feelworld FW759 or FW760 (they offer better colours and are also compatible to interlaced singals - If that´s important to you). At least the FW759 I also reviewed - And it´s a very good unit for the low price point ^^.
Thank you for answer.I am confused, VS-2 or FW760 ? both full hd, same constrast and brightnes
Tough choice. But I think I would go for the FW760. Why? Because it´s cheaper, has way better colours out of the box (the aputure is adjustable also to a good level - But not as good as the Feelworld) - And the FW760 also supports 4K input signals. The Aputure on the other hand not. That´s important if you shoot with a camera which slows down the AF if it needs to downscale the interal 4K to 1080P (like with the Panasonic GH4). Or its also important if you like to zoom into the image (to easier pull the focus). With the Aputure VS-2 FineHD you need to use the zoom as it only accepts 1080P over the HDMI (1080P on 1080P panel = zoom has to be digitally / scaled). With the FW760 you can input 4K resolution (which is 4 times the resolution of 1080P) and you can still use pixel-to-pixel zoom (the device only outputs the center crop of the 4K image - Which doesn´t need a digital scaling / zooming - So you get a better image). Beside that the FW760 also supports interlaced signals (without any issues). The Aputure not.
On the other hand: Don´t oversee that the Feelworld isn´t upgradeable by yourself, the sunshade is not as stable with the FW760 (though it´s fully usable and "ok") AND the Aputure screens are coming with accessories already. The magic arm, hard case, battery + charger and so on. You need to purchase at least the battery + charger seperately for the FW760.
LG
Btw.: I forgot to mention -> Maybe it´s the best to buy from Feelworld directly (over their Aliexpress dealers). Why? Because then you have the guarantee to get the newest firmware model. AND it seems like there are two models available -> An older FW760 without 4K input support. And a newer one WITH 4K support. Even if you don´t need the 4K support now it´s maybe useful in the future. ^^
Has anyone tried this with the sony a7s? Thanks!
+SelimHammi Should work fine (as the VS-2 is also working with the 24P mode of the GH4 flawlessly). ^^
+SelimHammi Im also curious about it. on aputure website, there's a suggestion to set the HDMI signal output on the camera to auto or 1080p.
I wanna buy one too
+TheOrisya If you want something better, check out the new Feelworld FW759 (or FW759P with additional histogram, zebras and false colour). The peaking is not THAT useful on it - But picture quality wise (and colours wise) it´s WAY better than the original Aputure VS-2 (and it´s also offering a 1280x800 IPS panel). The video / hands-on / test about it is coming online soon.
Btw.: To make it clear already - Also the FW759 (and FW759P) has full 24P support.
(So it´s working fine on the Sony A7s for example.)
You have a bad unit...return it and get a new one
+Mark Hazlitt Maybe the buzzing yes - But the rest of the cons / problems should be the same on all units ^^.
Maybe they fixed most on the new native 1080 capable FineHD models (the "VS-2 FineHD" for example) - At least I hope so ...
Your monitor is bad
+M Y S T E R Y If you mean that it´s defect -> Maybe the buzzing yes.
But all the other cons (interlaced problem, exposure assist shifting, bad colours and so on) are always the case.