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I had this issue with my 2007 toyota camry. It gets hard to start when warm and I had to wait for like 5-6 minutes before I get it started. There are times it gets hard to start when it's cool. My auto mech couldn't get it sorted out. He asked me to make a video when it happens on the road. I got the video and immediately he saw it he told me it was the fuel pump. I got a new fuel pump and I have driven the car since then and I haven't experienced the hard start since then.
My Dakota seems to have one of these issues, I'm almost certain it's a leaking injector. Your explanation was one of the best I could find. And the accent makes it entertaining for me at least thanks guys
My brother had a Chevy Cavalier that had this problem. It had nothing to do with the engine. It was a sensor in the transmission that would send a sigbal to the computer that the transmission was heating up , this was in order to protect the transmission from burning up. Once the transmission cooled down, the car would start.
Audi S5 V8 here, hard start when hot, only when I let the car sit for about an hour. I give it some gas and it goes, a bit rough for a bit and then it clears up. I smell gas from exhaust, I also have negative fuel trims. Running rich, I replaced all injectors OEM hitachi, upstream O2 sensors. Low pressure fuel pump. Plugs and coils in the last 50k kms as well as high pressure fuel pumps. New Evap purge valve. I don’t know man. ECT? Although in my dash and scan tool coolant temp is normal.
Most of the videos give all the complicated reasons for this issue overlooking the simplest reason which anyone can check and rectify. Sometimes dirt or corrosion, even what you can't see on the battery terminals will cause this issue to arise. As the car is driven the battery lead will become hot so when you try to restart the car it won't and you have to wait for it to cool down. It's very simple and not very sexy so doesn't get explained. Many unscrupulous garages can make a fortune from this and over diagnosing fictitious faults
Hi ARG guys watched this video a few times.👍 I have a class C motorhome with a Chevy chassi, and 7.4 ltr v8 We have been living with this issue. When COLD it starts Immediately. Then we stop somewhere about 20 min or more it needs to crank 4-10 seconds to start again, but always does always runs and idles very smooth. I just want it fixed! A mechanic said hes pretty sure it's the fuel pump in the Tank.we had this unit back on the road we had everything gone through new fuel pump etc.. complete pack in 2016. Why would it fail so soon. I just want this thing fixed and not paying for parts I may not need.
My 91 toyota land cruiser, starts fine cold ,when I turn off after warming and immediately start it again it starts fine now after q few minutes it won't start but if I get a jump start from another vehicle it starts fine,I have replaced starter,alternator ,ignition cylinder switch and battery so I am stumped as to ehy mine still has these issues and suggestions other then your video would be most helpful thanks
I got that problem with my 1991 toyita pickup v6 i replaced fuel pump fuel filter fuel pressure regulator, ecm computer and still have have the problem
hi im driving a polo classic 1.4 bby sometimes it starts right away sometimes i have to swig it ignition a couple of times then it takes my other problem is when temperture is at 90°c car wont start then i have to wait for the temperture to come down if if i kick start at 90°c it takes
2003 PT cruiser starts every time but if you shut it off and tried to restart it it will not start but if you wait till the car warms up and shut it off then it will restart
I have serena hybrid c26 cbu that having exact problem... try to scan with Bluetooth obd2 and the error is P00FF something called fuel/air auxillary system... which part must I do check 1st before putting all money to fix this? thank you in advance
I have a problem with my elantra 1.8 engine. When cold, it starts right up but when hot then you start it, the engine starts then die instantly but when you press the gas pedal, it continues to run with no problem. What could be the issue? Hope you can see my comment. Thanks!
I have BMW650I 2007, for the last three months I have noticed when the engine is warm sometimes the car will start with delays “funny start” when the engine is cold there is no issues. The car was taken to the garage, they said it was the battery, replaced the battery, replaced the keys battery also. The local garages are pretty useless including the BMW agent engine when it comes to electrical issue. It could be the electrical unit fixed passenger side underneath the micro filter where the starting ignition included in that unit. Your video footage was a bit confusing for DIY owners. Watching the video I felt replacement of the old engine with used would be cheaper and easier. Not sure the name of the unit in BMW650I but the cost around $120 plus labor charges. Thank you once again BUT different cars do have different electrical modular.
I have the same issue with a BMW 320d F30.. An hour ago I stopped car. Then it wouldn't start. Waited half an hour outside the car and it restarted fine.... It's a pain in the backside. I've replaced alternator and battery and it just comes back the fault.
I replaced the starter motor with original used at a cost of $150. The battery was replaced as well later. The crankshaft sensor you might need to look at. Also the cable inside the car from the the gear box shifter and the break. Before starting the car, push on the break three to four times till it becomes harder. Then start with one push button. I have been doing the same since I had the dashboard replaced, the radio unit also. My BMW650I 2007 model. Finally the junction box where the wires are connected check you might have water 💦 leakage. It’s very frustrating, annoying BUT that’s WHY you need to get the car checked well if you are buying used BMW particularly the M class 2,3 series as these modules have much more faults with turbo. Good luck and hope this reply can help you and others.
Hi love your vids. 95 Chevy C1500 with 5.7. It only starts from cold. After it runs or even sits in the sun without running, it will crank but Not Start until it’s cold again or starter fluid is used. Any ideas?
I changed the temp sensor but still, if the engine is too hot it will take time (45 to 60 minutes) before it will start again then for a short period it will run rough. I will try to change the crankshaft sensor and see if it will fix the problem.
My 2001 ford ranger starts fine when cold but after driving wont start back up for an hour, it just cranks and spudders. It started happening after I added some high octane fuel injecter cleaner to a full tank of gas.
Does anyone else ever experience this. The engine starts absolutely fine and drives absolutely no issues whatsoever but every now and again (especially when the engine is hot) I start the engine and it starts but there is no power to the radio, fans or sat nav and no power under the peddle just an idle engine. Had a new battery and alternator fitted recently which seems to have improved the issue a little but still happening sometimes. Any advice would be appreciated
I found the problem my 95 Dodge 1500 3.9 will not start when it's hot was a defective coolant temperature switch not the coolant temperature sensor the switch thinks the engine is too hot and will shut it down do not buy the cheap Chinese switch they just don't last buy one with a lifetime warranty
Hey my problem is when car is hot it doesn't even click or crank. Have to jump it. Any help guys? I had bad coil packs before and I didn't change the ignitiom module. I'm thinking it's that. Cause it crank fine with even a small jump pack on it. It's driving me nuts.
HELP!!!!! The vehicle: 2011 Jeep Wrangler JKU Sahara 3.8l engine The issue: Starts Cold, runs great, shut off once at operating temp, will start right back up but if you wait 5-10 minutes crank no start, but if you give it just a baby shot of ether it will fire up Initial problem: pressure in the cooling system (radiator exploded) overheated, developed a misfire Parts replaced: radiator, cylinder heads including all gaskets necessary to complete the job, 6 fuel injectors, exhaust manifolds, plugs/wires, deleted EGR, replaced crank sensor and cam sensor, ignition coil As of right now no codes detected in ecm except for EGR circuit codes, I deleted EGR (with proper block off plates) after it developed the new crank no start issue, still crank no start, I’ve checked for spark, I’ve checked cam/crank synchronization, coolant temp sensor, crank speed, fuel pressure at rail, checked throttle position and everything seems to check out fine, I’m at a little bit of a loss, I will say the injectors I used were cheap Amazon injectors and I’ve replaced the o-rings with the fel pro ones provided in my cylinder head kit here are my pressure readings Cold hasn’t been running for 8hrs 1st key: 52psi drop to 34psi Start and Idle: 60psi 30min drive Engine off: 52psi 10min wait Pressure drop 44psi Key on: 54psi Crank no start: 60psi during cranking Also I have a good 5v reference at both cam and crank sensors
Thanks for your video, it’s been very handy , Actually I have Suzuki swift 2012 it’s start first time early in the morning but after driving 10/15 minutes the engine get worm , than it’s take 10/15 minutes to start again.. I have checked all it’s fuel injectors it’s working properly but still have the same problem.. any help will be appreciated, thanks
I checked your previous video on Cam Position Sensor I am having problem getting the 5v to one of my contacts ground is good and 12v on my third contact does this mean my computer is at fault or a broken wire ? truck runs good except for the slip light comping on followed with the service engine light
I drive a 2006 Suzuki gran vitara 5 speed/manual. I have trouble starting my vehicle after driving it for a few miles. It also feels "weaker" than it used to, like it requires more throttle to keep it moving. It also idles inbetween 1 and 0 rpm now in such a way that it feels like it could just stall/ or shut off at any moment. I'm not sure what I should check first.
@@MrAwad64 I'm also broke, so I haven't been able to take it to a mechanic, but I've since concluded that the way that I drive was also making the problem worse. I now drive it like a tired old lady, barely going above 3x rpm. I believe the issue is a combination of the fuel filter and the fuel pump. Now, with the way that I'm driving it, it starts up without issue. It just sucks that I now have to drive her like I'm not practicing my getaway driving skills😔.
Hi I have Nissan frontier 2014 with trouble,some time when stop it (turn key off) at hot when restart directly in rang around 5 min start normally but after 5 min the car crunk no start for around 45min than start normally. Note When i put cold water behind engine at passenger side start normally I have changed crunk sensor 3time Camsensor both side Cooling sensor Fuel pump Fuel filter Sec. Trouble cooling fan not work .i make external relay but working only high speed. So any can help what do.and if any some problem before and he get solution.
i have 2012 kia sorrento starts fine but when i get out after driving it wont stqrt will start if i leave it sit for hr changed everytyhing but the pcm thionk i should change that thankls
hi my car starts rough after its warm.For example I drive the car shut it off and then if I try to start it again after minute or two it short cranks and sounds like it cuts off in the middle of cranking and then starts. Like there is a blank mid cranking and then it starts. Im thinking it gets too much fuel or too little. What you think is the problem? Btw i think IO got bad master cylinder or brake booster I dont know if that could affect
@@blaccsilverstaff5484 you buy new one if you can find it s not easy to find. Evap valve is valve that controls fuel vapors going into the atmosphere. when it brakes it gets stuck on closed or open position so you can experience hard start when car is warm and rough idle. Its not that expensive but its not easy to find at least in my couintry
Hi, Mazda 2, 1.3L 2009, in morning it starts from first try, but a bit hard 3-4 sec. On hot it starts only from second try instantly. I tried to remove the fuel pump relay(relay works fine) and with a papper clip to connect permanent 12V to the fuel pump and in this case engine starts instantly. The question is, if this is a leak, would engine start from first try even after 1-2 weeks of no driving?? Any suggestions what could be the problem??
Hi opel astra f x14xe The car engine stops if I don't turn on the heating fan. No check error code . engine 12bar , new piston ,ring ,. egr wall , fuel system new/ filter, AC/ ,ecu lamd and solenoid ful exchanged. Fuell new extra ,injector picture ok . fuel 3bar
Hi, I have Mazda 6 2016 Car, it has the same issue when the engine is heated if you switch off the car engine and start it back after 10 Minutes it is taking so long (20 to 30 Seconds) to get start. Sometime it gets start with this time interval but sometime not. However, if the Engine is cold it will not take more than 5 seconds to starts and thats perfect. Any one can help me what could be the reason? I have had visited many local Workshops but no luck.
@@kiran77342 have you solved the problem bro? i cant even go to the market, every time i turn it off, go shopping for 5-10 mins, comming back and the engine will start after 5-7 times of trying
My car starts when it cold but if I start it shut it right off when it cold won't start for bout 20 mins anyone have ideas. Been like this 1 year. I am getting cattaliic converter scan. Engine light solid. 2007 Camry 2.4
I have a Peugeot 207 and it starts cold first time every time, but will only start warm if I use a bit of throttle does anyone know what problem that would be? (edit) it has been to the mechanic and hooked up to the diagnostic machine which says everything is ok, but it still has warm starting problems.
no, it's had a new cylinder head gasket the old one started leaking near the cam shaft at 50k miles but it still has the warm starting problems.@@FilipPavlov991
I have same problem with my hyundai i20 1.4 2012 … it’s start well when it’s cold but if I drive around 5 to 7 miles then switch off the car then it’s won’t start .. I leave off for 20 mints then it’s start back and run perfectly.. anyone help what’s wrong with it???
@@octanetiger729 for sure. Unfortunately (or fortunately) it’s running right now and my mechanic can’t get the problem to repeat. He doesn’t just wanna throw a part at a guess and be wrong. Helluva guy with a “get it right the first time” attitude which I appreciate. I just hate that this is intermittent and hard to diag
Exactly my thought. Why can’t it be that there is an eroding wire to the starter that does not make contact when the car is hot, and makes good contact when engine is cold? Most of those other scenarios would be diagnosed with a computer but the partial contact wire cannot be diagnosed with that. At least that was my problem in my honda 2011 crv, after checking everything else out.
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One of the best car repair channels on YT. Thank you all guys for all that hard work and doing the videos.
Great video. You have confirmed what I thought leaking fuel injectors.
In diesels it’s an oil pressure issue. Gas engines it can be a variety of things
If oil pressure is the issue, is change oil the solution?
that’s only for heui injection systems like the 7.3 and 6.0 power stroke
Which one of these symptoms would not show up on the diagnostic machine?
Thank you so much!!!
Crank shaft sensor mostly
I had this issue with my 2007 toyota camry. It gets hard to start when warm and I had to wait for like 5-6 minutes before I get it started. There are times it gets hard to start when it's cool. My auto mech couldn't get it sorted out. He asked me to make a video when it happens on the road. I got the video and immediately he saw it he told me it was the fuel pump. I got a new fuel pump and I have driven the car since then and I haven't experienced the hard start since then.
Engine coolant temp gauge like jack smith said.
My Dakota seems to have one of these issues, I'm almost certain it's a leaking injector. Your explanation was one of the best I could find. And the accent makes it entertaining for me at least thanks guys
I have a Dakota too. Did the issue resolve?
How about the ect coolant temperature sensor ?? Thinking it's cooler than it actually is and causing a rich fuel scenario
Bad coolant temperature sensor?
My brother had a Chevy Cavalier that had this problem. It had nothing to do with the engine. It was a sensor in the transmission that would send a sigbal to the computer that the transmission was heating up , this was in order to protect the transmission from burning up. Once the transmission cooled down, the car would start.
Audi S5 V8 here, hard start when hot, only when I let the car sit for about an hour. I give it some gas and it goes, a bit rough for a bit and then it clears up. I smell gas from exhaust, I also have negative fuel trims. Running rich, I replaced all injectors OEM hitachi, upstream O2 sensors. Low pressure fuel pump. Plugs and coils in the last 50k kms as well as high pressure fuel pumps. New Evap purge valve. I don’t know man. ECT? Although in my dash and scan tool coolant temp is normal.
Most of the videos give all the complicated reasons for this issue overlooking the simplest reason which anyone can check and rectify.
Sometimes dirt or corrosion, even what you can't see on the battery terminals will cause this issue to arise. As the car is driven the battery lead will become hot so when you try to restart the car it won't and you have to wait for it to cool down.
It's very simple and not very sexy so doesn't get explained. Many unscrupulous garages can make a fortune from this and over diagnosing fictitious faults
Hi ARG guys watched this video a few times.👍
I have a class C motorhome with a Chevy chassi, and 7.4 ltr v8
We have been living with this issue. When COLD it starts Immediately. Then we stop somewhere about 20 min or more it needs to crank 4-10 seconds to start again, but always does always runs and idles very smooth. I just want it fixed!
A mechanic said hes pretty sure it's the fuel pump in the Tank.we had this unit back on the road we had everything gone through new fuel pump etc.. complete pack in 2016. Why would it fail so soon. I just want this thing fixed and not paying for parts I may not need.
change the fuel filter my friend. could be clogged
Could be heat soak starter getting too hot buy heat shield
My 91 toyota land cruiser, starts fine cold ,when I turn off after warming and immediately start it again it starts fine now after q few minutes it won't start but if I get a jump start from another vehicle it starts fine,I have replaced starter,alternator ,ignition cylinder switch and battery so I am stumped as to ehy mine still has these issues and suggestions other then your video would be most helpful thanks
Check all of your ground connections, especially in and around where it gets hot. Sounds to me like a grounding issue to the engine block or body.
I got that problem with my 1991 toyita pickup v6 i replaced fuel pump fuel filter fuel pressure regulator, ecm computer and still have have the problem
Great videos,. Where do we get those overalls ?
hi im driving a polo classic 1.4 bby sometimes it starts right away sometimes i have to swig it ignition a couple of times then it takes my other problem is when temperture is at 90°c car wont start then i have to wait for the temperture to come down if if i kick start at 90°c it takes
I'm having this issue with a 2010 Chevrolet Malibu.
You are always right, thanks for all the videos, you save me so much money and I will subscribe 👍🏾
Your awesome man,thanks.
Man your video is great .... good work ... continue whit video like this ...
2003 PT cruiser starts every time but if you shut it off and tried to restart it it will not start but if you wait till the car warms up and shut it off then it will restart
I have serena hybrid c26 cbu that having exact problem... try to scan with Bluetooth obd2 and the error is P00FF something called fuel/air auxillary system... which part must I do check 1st before putting all money to fix this? thank you in advance
I have a problem with my elantra 1.8 engine. When cold, it starts right up but when hot then you start it, the engine starts then die instantly but when you press the gas pedal, it continues to run with no problem. What could be the issue? Hope you can see my comment. Thanks!
I have exact same problem ! U found the solution?
How do I get thr right engine coolant temperature sensor for kia rio 2009
I have BMW650I 2007, for the last three months I have noticed when the engine is warm sometimes the car will start with delays “funny start” when the engine is cold there is no issues. The car was taken to the garage, they said it was the battery, replaced the battery, replaced the keys battery also. The local garages are pretty useless including the BMW agent engine when it comes to electrical issue. It could be the electrical unit fixed passenger side underneath the micro filter where the starting ignition included in that unit. Your video footage was a bit confusing for DIY owners. Watching the video I felt replacement of the old engine with used would be cheaper and easier. Not sure the name of the unit in BMW650I but the cost around $120 plus labor charges. Thank you once again BUT different cars do have different electrical modular.
I have the same issue with a BMW 320d F30.. An hour ago I stopped car. Then it wouldn't start. Waited half an hour outside the car and it restarted fine.... It's a pain in the backside. I've replaced alternator and battery and it just comes back the fault.
I replaced the starter motor with original used at a cost of $150. The battery was replaced as well later. The crankshaft sensor you might need to look at. Also the cable inside the car from the the gear box shifter and the break. Before starting the car, push on the break three to four times till it becomes harder. Then start with one push button. I have been doing the same since I had the dashboard replaced, the radio unit also. My BMW650I 2007 model. Finally the junction box where the wires are connected check you might have water 💦 leakage. It’s very frustrating, annoying BUT that’s WHY you need to get the car checked well if you are buying used BMW particularly the M class 2,3 series as these modules have much more faults with turbo. Good luck and hope this reply can help you and others.
Hi love your vids. 95 Chevy C1500 with 5.7. It only starts from cold. After it runs or even sits in the sun without running, it will crank but Not Start until it’s cold again or starter fluid is used. Any ideas?
Hey, has been this issue been resolved? If yes, what did you do to fix it. Thanks
I changed the temp sensor but still, if the engine is too hot it will take time (45 to 60 minutes) before it will start again then for a short period it will run rough. I will try to change the crankshaft sensor and see if it will fix the problem.
Try to spray some parts (one by one) with freezing spray (when engine is hot and no starting) and crank to check which is broken.
@@-_Robert_- I will try this! thanks!
@@-_Robert_- is there something that you can recommend I use specially for BMW? 🙂
@@channeld3531 Check DiagnoseDan channel. He rulez.
@@channeld3531 hey let me know how it goes please, got the same problem on series 3 2006
My 02' Blazer ZR2 4.3 had the same issues & it was my Camshaft Position Sensor
I’m having issues with my 2013 Hyundai Veloster. Was your Blazer starting fine on a cold start, but then it would have a hard restart when warm?
Same problem with my Toyota passo
Great video ✌
My 2001 ford ranger starts fine when cold but after driving wont start back up for an hour, it just cranks and spudders. It started happening after I added some high octane fuel injecter cleaner to a full tank of gas.
Hi my Corsa lite 2021 model sometimes will only crank but it start with push but it happens only sometimes please help
Does anyone else ever experience this. The engine starts absolutely fine and drives absolutely no issues whatsoever but every now and again (especially when the engine is hot) I start the engine and it starts but there is no power to the radio, fans or sat nav and no power under the peddle just an idle engine. Had a new battery and alternator fitted recently which seems to have improved the issue a little but still happening sometimes. Any advice would be appreciated
Relays
Check for blown fuses first, if all checks out then swap relays to see if anything changes, if that doesn’t help check for bad wire connections
My 79 Chevy Truck did that .
I found the problem my 95 Dodge 1500 3.9 will not start when it's hot was a defective coolant temperature switch not the coolant temperature sensor the switch thinks the engine is too hot and will shut it down do not buy the cheap Chinese switch they just don't last buy one with a lifetime warranty
What is different bwt switch or sensor
Hey my problem is when car is hot it doesn't even click or crank. Have to jump it. Any help guys? I had bad coil packs before and I didn't change the ignitiom module. I'm thinking it's that. Cause it crank fine with even a small jump pack on it. It's driving me nuts.
HELP!!!!!
The vehicle: 2011 Jeep Wrangler JKU Sahara 3.8l engine
The issue: Starts Cold, runs great, shut off once at operating temp, will start right back up but if you wait 5-10 minutes crank no start, but if you give it just a baby shot of ether it will fire up
Initial problem: pressure in the cooling system (radiator exploded) overheated, developed a misfire
Parts replaced: radiator, cylinder heads including all gaskets necessary to complete the job, 6 fuel injectors, exhaust manifolds, plugs/wires, deleted EGR, replaced crank sensor and cam sensor, ignition coil
As of right now no codes detected in ecm except for EGR circuit codes, I deleted EGR (with proper block off plates) after it developed the new crank no start issue, still crank no start, I’ve checked for spark, I’ve checked cam/crank synchronization, coolant temp sensor, crank speed, fuel pressure at rail, checked throttle position and everything seems to check out fine, I’m at a little bit of a loss, I will say the injectors I used were cheap Amazon injectors and I’ve replaced the o-rings with the fel pro ones provided in my cylinder head kit
here are my pressure readings
Cold hasn’t been running for 8hrs
1st key: 52psi drop to 34psi
Start and Idle: 60psi
30min drive
Engine off: 52psi
10min wait
Pressure drop 44psi
Key on: 54psi
Crank no start: 60psi during cranking
Also I have a good 5v reference at both cam and crank sensors
Thanks for your video, it’s been very handy ,
Actually I have Suzuki swift 2012 it’s start first time early in the morning but after driving 10/15 minutes the engine get worm , than it’s take 10/15 minutes to start again.. I have checked all it’s fuel injectors it’s working properly but still have the same problem..
any help will be appreciated, thanks
I checked your previous video on Cam Position Sensor I am having problem getting the 5v to one of my contacts ground is good and 12v on my third contact does this mean my computer is at fault or a broken wire ? truck runs good except for the slip light comping on followed with the service engine light
I drive a 2006 Suzuki gran vitara 5 speed/manual. I have trouble starting my vehicle after driving it for a few miles. It also feels "weaker" than it used to, like it requires more throttle to keep it moving. It also idles inbetween 1 and 0 rpm now in such a way that it feels like it could just stall/ or shut off at any moment. I'm not sure what I should check first.
Did you get the solution? As am experiencing the same issue.
@@MrAwad64 I'm also broke, so I haven't been able to take it to a mechanic, but I've since concluded that the way that I drive was also making the problem worse. I now drive it like a tired old lady, barely going above 3x rpm. I believe the issue is a combination of the fuel filter and the fuel pump. Now, with the way that I'm driving it, it starts up without issue. It just sucks that I now have to drive her like I'm not practicing my getaway driving skills😔.
That sounds like a vacuum leak!
My car a manual . It starts fine when cold and doesn't start when hot, so when this happens I push it and it starts and runs.
Hi did you find the problem?
Hi
I have Nissan frontier 2014 with trouble,some time when stop it (turn key off) at hot when restart directly in rang around 5 min start normally but after 5 min the car crunk no start for around 45min than start normally.
Note
When i put cold water behind engine at passenger side start normally
I have changed crunk sensor 3time
Camsensor both side
Cooling sensor
Fuel pump
Fuel filter
Sec. Trouble cooling fan not work .i make external relay but working only high speed.
So any can help what do.and if any some problem before and he get solution.
I have problem with my Toyota quest 1.6 is not starting when is hot bt in the morning is starting anyone knows or I can say when is cold is starting
I have a Mazdaspeed6 that starts and runs then acts like the pump turns off.... in tank fuel pump replacement?
f150 2005..... engine cranks over. starts idles only with starting fluid. runs drives. turn it off and crank no start? fuel rails getting gas.
I have same issue with my chavvy cruze 2011, can you please help on this issue, i am from India.
I am From India
i have 2012 kia sorrento starts fine but when i get out after driving it wont stqrt will start if i leave it sit for hr changed everytyhing but the pcm thionk i should change that thankls
hi my car starts rough after its warm.For example I drive the car shut it off and then if I try to start it again after minute or two it short cranks and sounds like it cuts off in the middle of cranking and then starts. Like there is a blank mid cranking and then it starts. Im thinking it gets too much fuel or too little. What you think is the problem?
Btw i think IO got bad master cylinder or brake booster I dont know if that could affect
Did you figure it out?
@@blaccsilverstaff5484 probably evap valve. Especialy if your gas gun shuts off while you pump gas
evap or also called purge valve
@@999momak ok perfect. What do I do just empty it?
@@blaccsilverstaff5484 you buy new one if you can find it s not easy to find. Evap valve is valve that controls fuel vapors going into the atmosphere. when it brakes it gets stuck on closed or open position so you can experience hard start when car is warm and rough idle. Its not that expensive but its not easy to find at least in my couintry
Crankshaft sensor
My f150 does this but then I have to use jump pack to restart. It’s so annoying
Hi, Mazda 2, 1.3L 2009, in morning it starts from first try, but a bit hard 3-4 sec. On hot it starts only from second try instantly. I tried to remove the fuel pump relay(relay works fine) and with a papper clip to connect permanent 12V to the fuel pump and in this case engine starts instantly. The question is, if this is a leak, would engine start from first try even after 1-2 weeks of no driving?? Any suggestions what could be the problem??
Hi opel astra f x14xe The car engine stops if I don't turn on the heating fan. No check error code . engine 12bar , new piston ,ring ,. egr wall , fuel system new/ filter, AC/ ,ecu lamd and solenoid ful exchanged. Fuell new extra ,injector picture ok . fuel 3bar
my navara engin start ok when cold ,but after 15 min drive it does not start what is the cause please?
Thoroughly explanation sir, thanks!, Longtime sub here.thanks again!.
Hi,
I have Mazda 6 2016 Car, it has the same issue when the engine is heated if you switch off the car engine and start it back after 10 Minutes it is taking so long (20 to 30 Seconds) to get start. Sometime it gets start with this time interval but sometime not.
However, if the Engine is cold it will not take more than 5 seconds to starts and thats perfect.
Any one can help me what could be the reason? I have had visited many local Workshops but no luck.
Hi did your problem solved? Having the same problem
@@kiran77342 have you solved the problem bro? i cant even go to the market, every time i turn it off, go shopping for 5-10 mins, comming back and the engine will start after 5-7 times of trying
@@dinasblt4917 nooo, did a lot of things did not help, i am selling the car now😔, can afford to spend more money
anyone experienced this on a 96 civic ? im facing this problem right now
Currently same. No fix yet. Replaced starter & battery
I have a 07 Mitsubishi galant and it runs great when cold but when it reaches normal running temperature it quits running
Did you find out what was wrong?
The car runs great but when I turn it off it takes a while to start back up but the temperature gauge isn’t going up.
Did you ever find the problem?
My car starts when it cold but if I start it shut it right off when it cold won't start for bout 20 mins anyone have ideas. Been like this 1 year. I am getting cattaliic converter scan. Engine light solid. 2007 Camry 2.4
Hello my polo 6 jst started dat few months Ago. Only wen its hot outside. Pls help
What was it??
I have a 91 bronco starts fine but when I drive for about 15 min i turn off ,it won't crank but ones it cools off cranks fine . Help please .
Maybe it's your starter.
I have a Peugeot 207 and it starts cold first time every time, but will only start warm if I use a bit of throttle does anyone know what problem that would be?
(edit) it has been to the mechanic and hooked up to the diagnostic machine which says everything is ok, but it still has warm starting problems.
no, it's had a new cylinder head gasket the old one started leaking near the cam shaft at 50k miles but it still has the warm starting problems.@@FilipPavlov991
I have same problem with my hyundai i20 1.4 2012 … it’s start well when it’s cold but if I drive around 5 to 7 miles then switch off the car then it’s won’t start .. I leave off for 20 mints then it’s start back and run perfectly.. anyone help what’s wrong with it???
I’m having the same problem with my 2013 Soul. Any help with this is greatly appreciated
@@dethangel2010 yeh mine got starter motor problem so I replaced with new one it’s fine now….
@@octanetiger729 I don’t think mine is the starter motor because when they tested it it was fine. I really thought it might be the fuel pump
@@dethangel2010 yeh might be fuel pump .. you should replace it
@@octanetiger729 for sure. Unfortunately (or fortunately) it’s running right now and my mechanic can’t get the problem to repeat. He doesn’t just wanna throw a part at a guess and be wrong. Helluva guy with a “get it right the first time” attitude which I appreciate. I just hate that this is intermittent and hard to diag
He should try recording the video without drinking a cup of water
How many guys do you say
Nothing works because it's hot lol
Never said anything about ground wires 😂
Exactly my thought. Why can’t it be that there is an eroding wire to the starter that does not make contact when the car is hot, and makes good contact when engine is cold?
Most of those other scenarios would be diagnosed with a computer but the partial contact wire cannot be diagnosed with that.
At least that was my problem in my honda 2011 crv, after checking everything else out.
Bg
No offence but you say too may times the ''OK'' when it does not need to do it.
Deez
You right, do you understand him? I don’t wtf
ok
What does not need to do it?
@@joaniepeters2565 : What's the reason? What's the gain?
Weak video that.
I can’t listen this guy speaking English, sorry but no
But you came to his video to get help. I personally dont see anything bad with his English, maybe accent is a bit funny.
I have to differ, he speaks well enough English that i can understand him. No problem here!
No issues understanding him on my end. I came here to troubleshoot an issue, not to critique his oratory skills.
Homeboy
Just Shat on my iPhone. Thanx crazy Russian hacker
My f150 does this but then I have to use jump pack to restart. It’s so annoying