Raspberry Pi Pico Breakout Board
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- čas přidán 1. 03. 2021
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In this video we design and construct a breakout board for the Raspberry Pi Pico (www.adafruit.com/product/4883). I don't like that the pin names and numbers are printed on the bottom. So this breakout board puts the info on top where it can be seen and adds an OLED I2C interface. But, there is a strange problem with the OLED.
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Please add a reset button, to avoid plugging and unplugging the micro usb cable.
machine.bootloader() puts the board in DFU mode
Measure what you got on the OLED socket with a scope, with the pi plugged in an running your program
Turn the board vertical, put the left side breakout on the left side of the Pi and the right side breakout on the right. OLED on top or bottom.
Probably better if I draw it out and send photo.
I was thinking the same thing. Paul sure made it hard on himself doing it the way he did.
It looks great. Turn them in the same direction would simplify it a lot. Put the text at the outside , not between the headers. Add a reset button and pins to connect to power. Perhaps also an additional holes to put a row of male pins next to the female headers.
Well done Paul, you have picoed a lot of attention with this one, I am sure the folks at Pimoroni have the same kinds of problems and probably a few more heads thinking about the subject
all at the same time. I can't wait for version 2.
For such a large board, copper plating always seems to be a good idea.
The next test I’d do would be continued from your last setup .. bridge from your board to the oled on the breadboard. If it works then I’m guessing some capacitance is being generated by the close run tracks.
This was what I was thinking too. It is the next step from the blinky test.
My thoughts also- does it work with the OLED on the breadboard and jumpers into the oled sockets on the PCB?
Great project!
A few things to try on PCB version: solder a 4.7uF and 0.1uf across Vcc and GND on Pico connector, program Pico with display removed then add with power off, reboot and run. This has helped me in the past but it all just basic supply bypass stuff. The only difference between PCB and breadboard is the pin to pin capacitance unless there is a wiring difference somewhere.
try doing a jump from the break out header to the bread board
I was just going to make the same comment :)
Your display has pins in this order: VCC - GND - SCL - SDA as correctly shown on the PCB too.
But SDA needs to be connected to GPIO0 and SCL to GPIO1 - You may have switched the two GPIO-pins, I think.
I made a similar breakout board in a similar fashion, but I added a double header too.
Those pico boards are kind of hard to get a hold of at a good price, guess I’ll just keep trying. Great video Paul, the only thing I could think of was a stray capacitance problem or maybe a floating voltage issue, hopefully someone has the answer.
I would only add the connections for the oled, this way there isn't any issues with the board unless there from those four traces.
If your planning on using the boards. If your not going to use the boards just make new ones with better spacing between traces.
Use you osc, to find cross talk and make a video.
Why is this designed the way it is, i.e. with the breakout headers at a 90 degree angle to the pico? I'm new to all this, if I would have thought of something like this, my first idea would be to put each breakout header to the right and left of the pico so that the connections are short and straight, it would make the layout much simpler still, and it would make the pcb smaller. Or is there a reason to try to keep the distance between the rows of pins on the breakout the same as they are on the pico? Thanks.
@@andymouse HA HA!! :-)
do you have the oled the correct orientation
Love the PCB design. Try extending the OLED off the board so that it sits comfortably in a socket and try again.
...or ....put the breakout headers immediately outboard of the pico header....maybe with holes for adding additional rows of headers
I'm late to the party here but I would try male to female jumpers from your other header (not your custom i2c). Agree this board is much better with a pin marked pcb. Reset button would be nice too (how-tos all over internet)
The pins on my OLED's are different: Gnd,Vcc,Scl,Sda from left to right. On yours gnd and vcc are swapped. Is that right?
Plus-n on the reset button. IMO the ground continuity sounded "scratchy" - bad connection?
A breakout board that supported C programming via Raspberry Pi (SWD connection) would be another useful thing.
You should add a reset-button (shorts 'run' to GND) to your next layout. Than you don't have to remove the micro-USB to restart.
Reset button between GND and RUN will be a game changer for testing...
Some mounting holes would be handy.
Nice video
First thought would be to put the Pi in the center to minimize trace length, then add some space and add male and female headers for each pin. I always liked the Chinese Arduino boards that came with both header types.
When the Pico and the oled was on your breakout board they looked very close, is the oled shorting pins on the Pico?
Could the signal or clock be feeding back through the Oled onto the programming data line or something else?
Test: unplug the oled and try again
Test2: use jumpers to connect the Oled but leave it some distance from the board and try again.
Have you tried the Ili934 series LCD displays yet? Around $10 and works well with Micropython and the Pico. Thinking of doing a breakout board of my own based it.
Thanks.
Please add mounting holes in the corners
Is something on the bottom of the OLED shorting out to the pins of the pico board? It looks a little snug between them.
I think your display board might be shorting an edge out on the exposed pico pins possibly? Try programming it without the display attached? Also some local decoupling might help, try slapping a 1uF on the displays Vcc/GND pins on the back. Also speaking of, probably add some rubber feet so nothing can short on metal bits.
check p5 to sda pin looks like they are shorted.
Put a cap on vcc. The tracks are too small for power and ground. Use jumpers and see if it works on your board without using the tracks
Naaaw.... problems like that do my head in big time 🤪 Great video though Paul 👌
Wonder if you’re running into crosstalk that’s messing up with the signals when flashing. An oscilloscope might help
I’m worried that the routing around pins 2&3 and 18-20 are too close leading to the cross talk. I can’t tell on the backside of the board.
I wonder if Paul has an oscilloscope for that test 🤣
@@BruceAllgire
Thanks.
Paul has a scope. I think it's attenuation or crosstalk.
Hi
Maybe as others have suggested it's somesort of stray capacitance created by the close tracks ?
What happens if you just keep the oled on the breadboard & use jumper wires to connect from the Pico on the breakout board ?
Hope you get to the root of the problem soon , must be very frustrating for you ?
TTFN
Timing. Noise in the trace? Put your scope on breadboard, look at data, vcc, timing and compare to your board.
For the next iteration (as other have mentioned) would love to have a spot for optional reset button, an sd card slot, and also maybe add the labels for the pins on the outside of the female pins the top row of the breakout is on the inside and for pico "hats" that would cover the top labels since they are on the inside. Looks great for a first iteration!
That's a great idea!
Nuthin' up ma sleeve
I gotta get me a new sleeve.
Alright Bullwinkle J. Moose. 😁
Check to make sure none of the pins are some how connected together in some way.
By a closer look I see the trace labeled as P0/SCL is connected to the first pin0 of the PICO which is DATA and not CLOCK... maybe that is an issue ?
nice vid
What pcb package you are using.
Have you checked the OLED works via the normal breakout pins (horizontal ones at bottom) rather that just the extra OLED header you added at the top of the board?
No, I didn't. But I will now
Question, what do you use for designing the PCB layout? Software name, manufacture. Again thanks for your video's.
Easyeda
@@learnelectronics Thanks, keep up the great video's.
Regarding the OLED header, why not turn it 90 degrees so you can use longer screens also.
Sorry I don't know python, my Pico's are 2 weeks out and I'm yet to start learning.
I have a i2c analyzer.
Arggg, python. Only because i have'nt learnt it. Confusing enough switching to different coding. Thanks for the upload. My dad used to tell me measure twice, cut once. Looking forward to v 2.0 of your board. Liked your vid of course ;) have you tried plugging it in the other way?
Love it....how bout adding a reset button.... between 28 and 30
Next iteration
Why don't you run the pin headers parelell to the pico, one on each side? Then the routing is simple.
I had an OLED do the same with an ESP32 breakout board.
i2c needs pull-up resistors to work correctly, maybe the wires and the breadboard provide a kind of that but your PCB does not ?
Could be
can be done in software .PULLUP
I've gotten a similar error using the OLED and it's something about the connection between the OLED and the Pico. I've connected the same exact OLED to an Arduino UNO and NANO with the same wiring and it works fine. I don't know if it's a hardware issue within the Pico or a software issue within Micropython.
Thanks, good to know someone else is having this issue
I wonder if a two layer board would help Paul with left side tracks on the bottom and right on the top or vice versa? You could then have the breakout pins run in parallel as well so they are like for like and oled in between! Just a suggestion.
And maybe put all ground tracks on the bottom layer and power on the top.
@@stevetobias4890 spreading the tracks top and bottom would make routing easier and avoid the issue of tracks being bunched up together.
@@gartmorn yes, I agreed, I added AND seperate the Ground and VCC tracks to avoid capacitance issues.
@@gartmorn maybe should have said I agreed however..
@@stevetobias4890 wasn't disagreeing just the layout I was suggesting perhaps would spread the tracks a bit more evenly but we're both on the same page I think! 🤣
While i can understand you want simple pcbs but damn dude these are too simplistic
I would add caps, reset button definitely
I have a question someone please let me know. How exactly do we know the width of the micro controller? Like I want to design a PCB for am ESP32 board but I don't know how far apart should the female headers should be so that the ESP32 fits perfectly in them.
Sorry if this is too noob of a thing to ask, but I don't know how to do this
If the board is "breadboard friendly" the spacing will be in 0.100" or 2.54 mm increments. Calipers or even a good ruler should get you what you need.
I use a set of cheap calipers.
solder jumper wire see if that works ..
Why not just turn the oled 90deg
OS error? Are you sure about shorts? Might not be one pin next to another short, could be one pin shorted to ANY pin.
So, beeper to pin one and check against all the other pins. Then, beeper to pin two and check again, keep repeating.
No shorts
@@learnelectronics
Traces crossed? Look upside down and forget Left is Right and Right is Left?
Ground and Vcc and SDA SCL are reversed on the original drawing from all of my 1386 OLED pcbs? - that's translated to the PCB design. Odd that your board on the OLED is different. However SCL & SDA are the same on pins 3 & 4 on the OLED but they go to 1 & 2 on the Pico where they get crossed over. SDA is 1 on Pico SCL is 2 on Pico.
Capacitance between tight traces.
Could be
Discalimer:- This is guess work and completely without any knowledge. :-)
Inter PCB Track Capacitance? I THINK I noticed some parallel tracks for the Display when you were showing your design.
Design No-2 question/suggestion. Why do you not simply lay out the Headers in parallel with each other and just bring out the tracks horizontally across the board. That would be on one layer, the Display can go on the other layer at right angles to the main track?
There was going to be more things on the board. But since its not working right, I will probably scrap this design
@@learnelectronics Look forward to Version-2 :-)
change the frequency to 200000
Keep the wheels and replace the car... problem solved. Lol
For some strange reason I just can't fathom, I always need to pee when you switch to this microphone 0:28