Set Up A Bike's Cantilever Wheel Rim Brake
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- čas přidán 23. 07. 2024
- A traditional cantilever brake has two arms like modern v-brakes. Both arms are pulled by a short straddle cable that is pulled by a yoke mounted on the main brake cable. The brake arms mount on bosses on the bike frame.
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00:06 Step 1 - Prepare The Bosses And Bolts
Clean the threads on the inside of the bosses and the matching threads on the cantilever brake bolts. If they’ve been used before, acetone is the best substance to remove old thread-lock glue. Handle acetone with care it’s volatile and flammable. The inside of the bosses need to ‘sticky’.
00:25 Step 2 -
Clean the outsides of the bosses. The outside of the bosses need to be ‘slippery’.
00:40 Step 3 - Grease Cantilever brake bosses
Lightly grease the outside of the bosses. Don’t get grease the on threads inside the bosses.
01:14 Step 4 - Spring Position
Each arm has it’s own return spring. One end of the spring sticks out of the back of the arm and locates in a plate at the base of the boss. If the boss has three holes make sure the springs on each side are located in matching holes. The top hole gives a sharper return action. The bottom hole makes the cantilever brakes easier to pull on, but in this position they return with less force.
01:42 Step 5 - Bolt On The Arms
Mount the arms on the bosses with the springs in matching holes. Carefully apply a small amount of thread lock adhesive to the inside of the bosses and then screw in the bolts to lock the arms on the frame. The bolts need to be as tight as possible but still allow the arms to pivot.
02:43 Step 6 - Block Position
If the wheel is out of the bike, replace the wheel. Mount the blocks symmetrically so both hit the rims flat. Check for symmetry with your head on the bike’s centre line. Some systems allow you to toe-in the cantilever brake blocks. If the front of the shoe hits the rim slightly sooner than the back the cantilever brakes may be less likely to squeal.
03:12 Step 7 - Cable
Set-up the main cantilever brake cable. Thread the yoke onto the main cable and clamp it in a position where the straddle wire will rest in the yoke angled roughly 45 degrees above horizontal.
Pro Tip
Open the barrel adjuster a millimetre or two before setting up the straddle wire, then if you set the blocks too close to the rim you’ve got a little bit of wriggle room to play with.
Pro Tip
Purpose-made straddle wires have over sized nipples to simplify opening and closing the cantilever brake. In practice, the nipple-end of any cantilever brake cable will do the job.
04:02 Step 8 - Set-up The Straddle Cable
Hook the nipple end of the straddle cable into one arm. Run the straddle cable over the yoke and thread it under the cable clamp. Pull the straddle cable through while holding the cantilever brake arms in the ready position with the blocks close to the rim. Clamp the cable.
04:50 Step 9 - Balance The Arms
One or both of the arms may have a small screw to adjust the pre-load on the spring. Screwing in the balance screw makes the arm it’s in more active. Unscrewing the balance screw makes the spring work more gently. Adjust the screw - or screws - until both arms move the same amount.
05:33 Step 10 -
Cut and cap the ends of the main cable and the straddle cable leaving plenty of room for adjustment.
Pro Tip
Take the bike for a ride then fine tune the position of the yoke and the length of the straddle wire if necessary. If the lever travels too far lengthen the straddle wire and move the yoke towards the lever. If the cantilever brake comes on too sharply shorten the straddle wire and move the yoke towards the cantilever brake.
#BikeRepair #HowTo #BicycleMaintenance - Jak na to + styl
You installed the main brake cable on the wrong side of the straddle wire hanger. The fixing bolt should be reversed, and the cable run through on the same side as the straddle wire. The tail end should go over the staddle wire and through the small indentation in the hanger. This functions to correctly allign the main cable pull and straddle wire tension, as well as providing some protection from the staddle wire getting displaced out of the hanger slot.
he hasn't caught on yet
Slow, concise and well produced. Best instructional vid I've seen on these.
It left out the adjustment of the brake blocks themselves. Kinda tricky on cantelevers.
it'll help me a great deal once i set up my first bike. thx!
нихрена не понимая языка -- все прекрасно понятно и доступно -- ВЕЛИКОЛЕПНО браво .
Thank you, i was wondering what that one screw was for pn the left of my brakes
This video really helps
Thanks for a very clear video.
Very good job, thanks!
Brilliant - thanks
Many many thanks for that video.
Best regards from Italy.
Perfect! Thank you very much!
Our please Rubens, hopefully you got your brakes installed correctly!
Awesome! Thanks.
great video thanks! 😀😀
any tips for a rebuild of cantilevers w/ the actual spring? Love this video, very great. Subscribed.
Fantastic! Thanks 🙏
Thanks from Argentina! Useful for me. I have the same adjustable piece (don´t know the proper name, the yoke?) intermediate of the middle for three wire enters or exits, that is different from the original round piece with plumb colour.
Any special advices for steel rims using these brakes?
Very interesting video thank you.
I have Sachs Classic Cantilever brakes on my bike and I can´t find this tension adjustment screw on neither side... what can I do?
when setting up the main cantilever break cable, what does the narrator mean when he "roughly 45 degrees above the HORIZONTAL". specifically, i'm not sure what is meant by the "horizontal". thank you in advance! great vid!
Buen día a ¿se podría instalar en este sistema de frenos una luz de stop? Compré un juego de luces traseras con luces direccionales o de giro y de stop pero no logro ver donde se coloca la pieza que acciona la luz de stop. El sistema de luz de stop se acciona con una pieza de plástico corrugada (con pliegues tipo acordeón) que no se dónde ni como colocarla.
Y para visi d montaña como se ponen
What's the complete name of product, Shimano .. ?
made it look easy, i hate brake maintenance
can anyone help mee!!!!
my chain falls down regularly and my bycycle is a 6revoshift one plz help
U need to regulate the range of the front and rear gear shifter with the screw.
@1:56 you add a washer to the bolt that Simano does not include or suggest --- not sure why. Why?? That said, I love the sticky inside/slippery outside commentary. For other viewers learning canti setup, you have to watch several - they each make different points all together excellent for learning---V-brakes are a bore and an eyesore while the art of fine-tuning cantilever brakes is pure finesse and poetic geometry. Here is the also excellent and best IMHO Park Tool vid:
czcams.com/video/j8qMBsWLwN4/video.html
Be sure to read up on sheldon brown also.
What about pad aliment??? Why so much excess wire?
Adjustment.
Funny how the mountings in the video only have one position for the return spring. Mine have a choice of 3 holes so you can get the back-tension equalised.
Well spotted Victor. Yes that's right, different bikes can have slightly different configurations, but the general procedure remains the same.
Non è capesc na capocchij
after all that and it still won't stop good. Why don't you just upgrade to V brakes. they will cost you less than 20 bucks on eBay. the difference between the two is mind-blowing
Crap O Lever brakes suck for power.....upgrade to V-Brakes. Better power, stop you on a dime.
It all depends on how you set them up.
Acetone is also a major carcinogen.
And where did you read that?
True but it works well