How to Avoid Space Between Stitches - Embroidery Medic
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- čas přidán 16. 04. 2019
- In this episode of Embroidery Medic, we look at an embroidery design posted in our Hatch Facts FB group... The design's registration was off, meaning there were spaces between stitches in the artwork. In this video, John shows you how to properly register designs when stitching them out.
Thanks for watching!
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I love embroidery medic videos! Can we please have it as a regular segment? I love watching you work and also learning how you think when approaching a design that needs fixing.
We'll have more Embroidery Medic videos coming soon :) Thanks for the kind words Jay!
Thank you John, That explained it really well. Now I know it's to do with stitch direction. That's why I find little gaps in between my designs.
Thank you again.
Caroline (Redland Bay, Queensland Australia.}
The disappearing graphic is something that happens OFTEN with auto digitize. I'm so glad to see you struggling with the same issues that I have been wrestling with. I just presumed that it was due to me being a complete noob! I usually just switch the shape to hidden & use the background graphic & manually digitize it. I find I'm doing more manual digitizing now than when I started at the beginning of July. Converting the fill to an outline is a brilliant way of working without a background graphic. Great Tip! Thanks! I've learnt so much from your videos. Thanks master! You say that you can control the underlay sequence. I had a zigzag followed by an edge run. I saved my work & came back to the design and Hatch had changed the sequence to edge run first followed by zigzag. So I changed it again & saved. Sure enough, when I reloaded the emb file, it was back as edge run first again! It's driving me crazy!!!
Thank you for your videos. I really appreciate you sharing your knowledge. I have been doing embroidery for over 12 years and I still get interesting info from you.
You are the Master, appreciated all you teach us, thanks ❤️
Excellent video. Thanks John
Thank you, such an 'eye-opener' for me and as always a really great video. This one is certainly a video that I shall keep revisiting in times of need!
Glad to hear that Gill, thanks for watching :)
Thank you John, for another excellent and outstanding demonstration! But I believe this is one video that I need to watch again.
Thanks for the kind words :) Glad you enjoyed
Great and well explained video. Thank you!
Very informative video John showng how to improve the digitizing for the best possible stitchout.
Thanks for watching Linda :)
Love 😍 his greatness please make more
Hi John, I am new to all this and find all your videos really helpful. When you loose your fill have you tried removing excessive nodes? I have found when a bunch of nodes are to close, or are on top of each other it causes all sorts of issues.
Good video thanks
Thanks for another great video! Objects randomly disappear for me as well. However, I use Bernina Designer Software V7, which is also made by Wacom and is very similar to Hatch. It happens when I'm working in a new design or sometimes when I'm editing a design I created as a Native Bernina .art file so who knows why it happens. But I'm glad to see it's not just me that has gremlins in their software LOL
I find it happens when the original object has holes cut out, so the two are linked. ( I'm not using Hatch either but always learn from these types of 'correction' videos)
@@margaretrose2167 That's very interesting. I'll have to see if it's specific to holes for me or not. I do use holes regularly so that is something I'll keep an eye out for. I agree I love these correction videos! They help me so much!
Yes, happen me too. I hope they can iron out this glitch, at Wilcom.
Great video. Thanks for sharing with us. I have been digitizing for about 4 years. I have always put the edge run then the Tatami. My thought is the Tatami would have a stitch to build on to. Could you explain a little more detail why you do the Tatami then Edge run?
My guess ( is sewing the tatami run will pull the fabric together, so putting edge run first, will make it "smaller", that is, further off the edge for the final layer. putting the edge run last will sew it where it is for the final layer and thusly looks more crisp. It is a good reminder for me. Thank you John for the video.
I always have a registration problem when i use two colour really wish you could check my dst file
I particularly love the bit about working to a standard zoom of 600%. Thank you!
Can I ask why it's better to do the tatami underlay before the edge run underlay please?
Katharine Waterton the tatami underlay secures the area first and then the edge run fall exactly where I want it too.
@@EmbroideryLegacy Thank you for confirming that. I use Wilcom and the standard settings are the other way round, so now I have the courage to change them permanently.
I have purchased your Digitizing Made Easy course, and it's fabulous. Thank you very much!
I had my Logo Digitized and when it stitches out the black out line never matches up with the bottom of the wings... I need help fixing it.
Does the angle make a difference? And should the angle not be the same when stitching on top of another stitch?
How do you decide what size hole is too small to digitize holes for?
Can you please tell me why if you mask (doing the holes) the stitch count is so much higher, If done all in one, I thought it would be the same, how do you suggest I do nose and eyes, etc in a design, I obviously do not want to have very dense designs, I prefer ripple or less dense designs
Can you help me. I did 2 designs that keep ending with gaps in them. Im using hatch as well
How do ŵe hoop for the doble applique armaments?
I watched the video and yes I see how you fixed it. I was hoping to understand from a digitizers stand, what step can I take to allow for registration. Does the angle cause the gap? When I create I also look at it to make sure that one segment overlaps to compensate for that. But if you put the whole design as one angle do you not also lose the effects also? I understand compensation comes into play. Carving holes does this also help not make a bullet proof design?
Thanks
The "angle" direction of the stitches does affect the gapping. I always place my inputs base on the angle and the push and pull it will cause. Carving holes in small areas both increases stitch count and creates complex pathing within fills. I'd much rather a fill start and one side and finish on the other. When you carve holes it randoms moves to accommodate the holes. :)
Great video, but I am still lost on how to approach fixing void spaces between stiches.
What happens if it’s a stored program and you can’t adjust
John, with my regular software how do I get ride of the lines of stitches between the letters
It would depend on the program your using, editing start and stops so they connect closest point.
Is HATCH better than PE Design 10?
I personally prefer Hatch, please keep in mind that is my personal opinion. PE is a quality program.
@@EmbroideryLegacy That's a rather diplomatic answer.
I use both Hatch and PE-Design 11. Hatch for digitizing and PE to transfer the machine file wirelessly.
In my opinion PE Design is expensive bullshit and not suitable for professional digitizing.
I digitized exactly the same shapes with Hatch and PE and was shocked about the mess of stitches PE created compared to the Hatch machine file.
Hatch isn't flawless either as we can see in this video. But the results on fabric are great. That's all that counts.
It was a ready made design why you chose to correct?
JOHN. I bet the image disappears when you click on it because they used a pirated version of the software. Some software developers input little things to mess up stolen copies of software to bother the user.