Oh and thank you so much for taking your time and going at a slower pace so I could keep up with you just fine most CZcamsrs want to show off and go fast where nobody came keep up with wearing out the pause play buttons crazy
Yes my 6 position switches are the same for radiomaster tx16s. At least its consistent. You can set functions to match with a small range so I still use ~20, ~60 and ~100 for this switch.
I just ran a little experiment and set the 6p up as an input and assigned it a channel so I could see the values in channel monitor. In channel monitor I get -100, -60, -20, 20, 60, 100 So it seems something in their calibration scale is off.
@@RCVideoReviews After experimenting with some logic switches, I've come to the conclusion that it's a hardware issue with the 6P encoding chip. In the 6th position, where variable 'a' should equal 100, I got the following results: a>99 is true; a=100 is false; a
1:30 ... I had measured the current draw of the TX16S and it was 250mA to 350mA depending on which protocol you choose or if the Screen is at High output or Standby. The radio only powers either the Internal or External modules at a time.
@@RCVideoReviews Yeah for a 3200mAh Battery it would be closer to the 1c curve. I use a RadioMaster 5000mAh battery. I still need to do a Discharge /Charge test to see it's actual real world capacity.
@@RCVideoReviews Yeah you are correct 0.1C...Brain Fart...;-) At 3.2 V per cell that would be the cutoff point. The Rated Capacity of a battery in mAh would depict the run time before a charge would be needed. In your case of 3400mAh cells about 9.7 hours non stop at a constant current drain of 350mA.
I'm also getting 99 at the 6th flight mode button. If you didn't point this out I wouldn't have noticed it. It must be software related, since all these appear to be consistent at 99. One thing I still haven't figured out is if there is a way to change the clock from 24-hour based to 12-hour based with an AM/PM indication.
Doesn't look like there's an option to do that. I've never looked for one because I prefer the 24h clock. But a little googling around shows the OTX devs don't want to do it because it would require overhaul of the gui and it would break a lot of LUA scripts. Thanks for the feedback on your 6p switch.
These vids on the TX16s are incredibly helpful, especially for total newbies like me. I've bought a Mode 1, but realised 2 would be better (just personal choice). There is a vid from Radiomaster on changing over the gimbals, but it shows a completely wire free back cover. For some reason I have a few wires attached to inside of mine. Any chance of putting up a video of swopping Modes over ?
The wires are probably for the back cover speaker. They added that in a mid-cycle product update. I've been thinking of doing a gimbal mode change video for a while now. Isn't the Radiomaster video on the subject helpful?
@@RCVideoReviews the Radiomaster video is okay, no audio on it though. No attempt to flatter you, but you've a very good way of describing just what needs to be done to accomplish a goal
I suspect the 6-position switch is merely equally divided. -100 to -1 is 100 steps, as is 0 to 99. It's probably just due to the math OpenTX is doing. Also, somehow I missed how you get to this Analogs Test screen.
@@RCVideoReviews I hate to do this... But would you mind seeing the "issue"? I also noticed if I flip the switch from up to middle, each time the transmitter acts as if I scrolled right one click on the wheel. czcams.com/video/zt1JXearVy4/video.html
@@RCVideoReviews thank you for getting and sorry I didn't update on here. I was able resolve the strange behavior by Reseating the ribbon cable ends from the top board to the lower board. Not sure which side fixed it,but did both ends.
Brilliant video, thanks. How often would you calibrate? Why do you sometimes see flickering when, for example, the slide calibration is moved to the neutral point?
We just talked about this on discord. It never hurts to calibrate and it only takes a minute. That said, unless you physically change something about your hardware, it's not necessary after the first calibration. Don't worry to much about minor variances in potentiometers as there is a lot of math between the analog input and RF output. Watch your channel monitor outputs. If they aren't moving without input, then your model won't move without inputs either.
Calibrate 'n validate. More great info! I can't wait to receive the battery that was ordered so I can at least turn the T18 on! The battery is from NewBeeDrone. It's a GNB 7.4v 2s 3000mah lipo. I hope it's of good quality. So, would it be best to set the cut off at 7.6 'n 8.4?? AirHammer out!!
You should find the discharge curve or datasheet for your battery if you can. If not, and if it's a LION battery, I would use the values I gave in the video 3.2v/c = 6.4v for cutoff.
@@RCVideoReviews l just received the battery. I'm looking at it and it's as described. GNB 7.4v 2s 5c 3000mah LIPO. It's made specifically for the T16s and JT18.. I'll try to find a datasheet for it.
Hey, another great video. Liked the tip as to how to check the calibration. Also, my TX16s gives the same outputs on the 6 position switch. One last thing, how do you get the actual voltage to show on the screen beside the battery meter. On mine, I just get a flashing red text showing 0% and 0.00V
Thanks for watching. You're probably using the widget named battery. That's not the right one. You set the widget to the one that says Rud Value 0 (5th one in). When you select that one, set the source to Batt.
Excellent, thank you. I would never have thought to set it to Rudder for TX battery voltage. I guess you need to do this for each particular model?, Is there anyway to do it globally? BTW what’s the battery widget used for?
Thanks for reporting back. On the Livestream tonight I showed how even with the 1pt offset it still outputs -100, -60, -20, 20, 60, 100. So it seems to be a calibration output bug. Doesn't seem worth worrying about.
Ok, thanks for the feedback. I was a little hesitant putting a video out saying, "this is how it's supposed to be" without getting the calibration right. Thankfully I had the Jumper and saw the same issue. Appreciate the comment. I agree, gotta be software.
Same 19,59,99. weird. couldn`t count the 0? I have been calibrating my sticks wrong since day 1. Always moved around in circles, but when I got my TX16S, this caused cal issues. Changed to up/down, left/right and perfect. Thank you for pointing this out.
You're welcome. Glad you're squared away. Thanks for the feedback on your 6pos values. I googled this and saw some complaints but most of those were around adding a 6 pos pot on taranis.
Hey great video. I had a question with my opentx radio but idk if you can help me. When my radio talks, there is a hissing noise. Is there anything that I can do? Thanks!
When callibrating the right stick on the side of the radio only reaches the middle when fully up, a bit above center, the left slider reaches the top, is this a hardware or software issue? Cant find anything on it online
Ok, thanks! Phew--glad I'm not alone on that one. I've been inside that radio so many times, when I filmed that, I thought the radio was trying to tell me something.
What pins are you using with the voltage meter, do you open the battery bay and stick it to one of the pins there? I have no idea what wires you’re reading
I said in the video I connected to the XT30. The battery is connected to the radio with the balance lead so the XT30 lead is available to measure voltage.
John: I am a recent subscriber, as well as currently awaiting my registration email to join RCmodelreviews.com, as you've become an invaluable resource for me, being the proud new parent of a jumper t18! I chose this model in part based on the misleading description of the IPS screen having an upcoming feature of being a touch screen. I refer to this as misleading, because should this feature be supported in an update, we will need to purchase and install the digitizer ourselves, or have it installed. Had I known this at the time of purchase, I probably would have bitten bullet and purchased one of the more expensive RadioMaster models, however, I'm not finding the lack of touch as the deal breaker that I initially thought it might have been. Like many open source products, I'm overwhelmed by the potential of the device & software, and the learning curve is a painful process in my old age (46) but most definitely seems worthwhile, the cost savings alone over a Spektrum product with high channel count and half the features is staggering! I hope you'll be doing another live OpenTX class soon and I very much intend on donating via Patreon which I'll consider 'Tuition' for my education. Just waiting for my next paycheck! I did have one bad experience, scared the crap out of me, only had my tx a couple of days when I saw your video about the 3 calibrations one should do upon acquisition of a new tx, I had begun the battery calibration and when I touched the contacts from my my multimeter to the exposed battery contacts, smoke emitted from the tx & she went black! "OH SHIT!" I exclaimed as I disconnected everything, including the battery from the radio and when I plugged back in, nothing happened! I was starting to despair when I tried another battery and it worked fine, and it turned out that the battery had slid from the contact inside the battery holder. I haven't fainted this idea what caused this, though I'm certain I'd done something wrong, but, wow, I really thought I killed it! If I can figure out what stupid mistake I made to cause this I will update this message so that others can be warned and avoid my mistake.
I got the same reaction to calibrating 6P Button Bar, 19,59, & 99..also got some fluctuation on digits on left 3 locations and 2 location on the right, sometimes, but 3 left definitely all the time.....? Interference, loose connection, tapped radio gently didn't make any difference...? =)
Hello: I ve done the total calibrations with analog tests. all show100's. In my radio all my models throttle only goes up to 79%. I must have set something to make it happen on all models. inputs,curves, outputs all show 100%. Any ideas where to fix this? John
It's got to have something to do with your inputs/mixes/outputs. Somewhere along the way you added something to inhibit full travel or full output. By creating a new model and testing it with no changes, we proved out the radio and we know it's not a calibration issue. For further help, please join discord discord.gg/jSFTASU It's a much better medium for getting help than YT.
@@bstearn1653 One of the subscribers said it does work. You have to connect the RF controller via USB just like normal because RF requires one of their enumerated controllers to run. But then you can supposedly connect the TX16s to the back of the RF controller and use it like a buddy box. I haven't tried it because I don't have the futaba trainer cable they used on the RF controller.
I'm having trouble find an answer on the TX16s charging LED indicator. What does it mean when the green LED is blinking? Green when charging. LED off when compete. I plugged the radio into my cell charger block to charge back up over night (10-12 hours of being plugged in). The next morning I find the green LED blinking and the battery only at 70%.
This question came up in Discord and I asked Radiomaster. Their answer: "It means either the battery is not installed or there is a problem with the pack or its connectors OR The USB PSU is struggling." And "One other possibility: Check the cell health of the battery (check the IR). One of the cells could be lagging and the other going over so the good cell is going over 4.2 so it is stopping the charge to avoid going past 4.2v on the good cell"
I had a issue were my radio went un calibrated after flying a pack every quad was flipping afterwards when were flying. Calibrated it and it was fine why did that happen.
so i tried calibrating my 6pos switch and its all over the place I'm not sure why its freaking out. i would love some help sorting this out. its driving me nuts. I want to set my raceband channels to the 6pos switch for racing
I've got my Jumper T18 pro with GNB 3000mAh 2S 5C 7.4v LiPo Battery For Jumper Radiomaster, do you know what the readings should be on radio setup? Cut off etc? I'm new to the fpv hobby and really looking forward to getting a drone and the Dji hd googles and having freedom of flying in fpv.
3amps. You can always figure out a 1c charge rate (which is safe for all modern Lipos) by dividing the MAH by 1000. So move the decimal 3 places from the right to get your 1c amp value. i.e. 10,000MAH would be 10amp @ 1c. 2200MAH would be 2.2amp @ 1c.
I don't know if this will make a difference or not, but you may as well try it: Make a brand new model, don't change anything, and try it again. It sounds like something is broke if the stick doesn't register during calibration. You may have to take the cover off and see if any wires are loose/damaged.
@@RCVideoReviews thank you for your response. i did try to make a new model but it doesn't work. ok sir ill try to remove the cover look for a loose or damaged component. thank you!
hi What do I do if I do not have a battery meter? I got my radio today with this company's 5000 battery. I do not have a battery meter. Why does not everything come ready like the big companies?
If you're in this hobby for any length of time, you need a meter. They could probably go through every radio and calibrate it, but then they'd would increase the cost. When it comes to using radios this advanced, you need to learn to do these things for yourself.
@@RCVideoReviews How many hours of use do you use after a full charge? I will use half the time until I have and it will take a long time . I also got a faulty radio - the connector of the battery connection comes out with the filter - the company wants me to fix it myself - they think I'm an electrician
Sorry, my battery has a balance plug and XT30. I used the XT30. On my Jumper which uses the 18650's in a tray, I just stuff the leads into the +/- of the tray.
Hey Marlie, What do you mean headspace? On outputs it shows -100, -60, -20, 20, 60, 100. Wonder why they can't show it that way in the calibration screen?
@@RCVideoReviews I mean, normally values goes like 95,96,97,98,99,100,0,-100,-99,-98,-97,-96,-95... but in 6pos switch they didn't put zero, a middle position.
@@MARLIELEPPO Right, they took a range of 200 points and broke it into 5 even segments: 200/5 = 40. Pos 1 = -100 Segment 1 Pos 2 = -60 Segment 2 Pos 3 = -20 Segment 3 Pos 4 = 20 Segment 4 Pos 5 = 60 Segment 5 Pos 6 = 100 Jim S., is one of our subscribers. He opened an issue on Github with the dev team. Maybe they'll respond and inform us of what's going on.
Ive calibrated my radiomaster tx 16s same as you, sticks pots and sliders, all it get 100% and -100%. My channels are setup AETR but in Analogs test Ali inputs are 4, should be 1, ELE shows 3 should be 2, THR is 2 should be 3 and RUD is 1 should be 4. Im learning as i go but this dont look right please explain. Thanks
I dont think so, Throttle is left stick and Ali and Ele on right, So on analog test should the values be on right channels for AETR? Ive never flew mode 1 dont want to.
As long as your inputs map to the correct physical hardware and your outputs via mixes match correctly I wouldn’t worry about the debug number. What version of OpenTx are you using? I’m on 2.3.9.
Im using firmware that radio came with but in firmware tab it says muti stm opentx 1.3.1.36.bin and opentx- tx16s- bluetooth-flexr9m 2.3.9-otx.bin maybe you could explain diffrence between these numbers, I have flew quads and parrot dico for last 10 years but this is my first build and trying to learn opentx but has not been fun, im going on 3 months trying to get stick inputs in inav 2.5 0 using this radio and R xsr receiver i have sent many emails watched many viedos and read inav wiki more than once but still no joy, i have flashed and reflashed receiver and f405 wing but still no go. But i have learned some about opentx from your videos. Thanks
Oh and thank you so much for taking your time and going at a slower pace so I could keep up with you just fine most CZcamsrs want to show off and go fast where nobody came keep up with wearing out the pause play buttons crazy
You are welcome!
Yes my 6 position switches are the same for radiomaster tx16s. At least its consistent. You can set functions to match with a small range so I still use ~20, ~60 and ~100 for this switch.
I just ran a little experiment and set the 6p up as an input and assigned it a channel so I could see the values in channel monitor. In channel monitor I get -100, -60, -20, 20, 60, 100 So it seems something in their calibration scale is off.
@@RCVideoReviews Oh wow. thanks for info.
My 6-position switch is the same, -100 -60 -20 19 59 99. Thanks for confirming that mystery!
Weird isn't it? I never found out why that happens.
@@RCVideoReviews After experimenting with some logic switches, I've come to the conclusion that it's a hardware issue with the 6P encoding chip. In the 6th position, where variable 'a' should equal 100, I got the following results: a>99 is true; a=100 is false; a
Yes my six position is reading just like yours and I just bought my tx16s max one month ago so a year later they are still reading the same
1:30 ... I had measured the current draw of the TX16S and it was 250mA to 350mA depending on which protocol you choose or if the Screen is at High output or Standby. The radio only powers either the Internal or External modules at a time.
So .1c is a good estimate for discharge rate. I knew you did this kind of work and hoped you'd chime in. Thx!
@@RCVideoReviews Yeah for a 3200mAh Battery it would be closer to the 1c curve. I use a RadioMaster 5000mAh battery. I still need to do a Discharge /Charge test to see it's actual real world capacity.
@@lasersbee Wait: 3400mah = 3.4a = 1c So .1c = .34a = 350ma right? So the .1c curve, not 1c curve. 1c would be 3.4a.
@@RCVideoReviews Yeah you are correct 0.1C...Brain Fart...;-) At 3.2 V per cell that would be the cutoff point. The Rated Capacity of a battery in mAh would depict the run time before a charge would be needed. In your case of 3400mAh cells about 9.7 hours non stop at a constant current drain of 350mA.
Great video help me out so much thanks s much.
No problem 👍
Good video. Got the same values on the 6 buttons, even after updating to the latest and greatest firmware/OpenTX version
Thanks for the report. Seems to be a thing.
You just know everything about open tx! Thanks for the information. 🙂
I've spent my time in the interface--lots of time. Glad to be able to help.
My position switches on my Radiomaster showed the same as yours!
Thanks for reporting back Michael. This one is definitely confirmed.
I'm also getting 99 at the 6th flight mode button. If you didn't point this out I wouldn't have noticed it. It must be software related, since all these appear to be consistent at 99. One thing I still haven't figured out is if there is a way to change the clock from 24-hour based to 12-hour based with an AM/PM indication.
Doesn't look like there's an option to do that. I've never looked for one because I prefer the 24h clock. But a little googling around shows the OTX devs don't want to do it because it would require overhaul of the gui and it would break a lot of LUA scripts.
Thanks for the feedback on your 6p switch.
Thank you , your videos are very helpful. Same 99 on that value ,
Thanks for watching and for the report. Appreciate the comment.
Same here, 99 and not 100 on the 6 position switch. Just live with it I think.
Yeah, I think so. As long as the switch works I don't see an issue. If this were a control surface I would have a complaint.
Making it easy for us as always! Thanks! 👍
You bet!
These vids on the TX16s are incredibly helpful, especially for total
newbies like me. I've bought a Mode 1, but realised 2 would be better
(just personal choice). There is a vid from Radiomaster on changing over
the gimbals, but it shows a completely wire free back cover. For some
reason I have a few wires attached to inside of mine. Any chance of
putting up a video of swopping Modes over ?
The wires are probably for the back cover speaker. They added that in a mid-cycle product update.
I've been thinking of doing a gimbal mode change video for a while now. Isn't the Radiomaster video on the subject helpful?
@@RCVideoReviews the Radiomaster video is okay, no audio on it though. No attempt to flatter you, but you've a very good way of describing just what needs to be done to accomplish a goal
@@kglas I appreciate that. I'll see if I can put something together. I've been thinking of this one for a while anyway.
@@RCVideoReviews Thanks very much. I will eagerly wait for that.
Another great and informative video thanks again mate 👍
No problem 👍 Thanks for watching.
@@RCVideoReviews Thanks for all your help with your vids I just ordered the Radiomaster Tx16s with hall Gimbals 👍
I want this red ring that i see on your gimbals haha.And thanks for your help, im trying to learn opentx now
You can do it! Here's the link for the 3D printed spacers: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4493751
Great stuff, thanks for the share!! 😉👍
Thanks for watching!
I suspect the 6-position switch is merely equally divided. -100 to -1 is 100 steps, as is 0 to 99. It's probably just due to the math OpenTX is doing. Also, somehow I missed how you get to this Analogs Test screen.
This comment runs off another video, but thanks for linking me to here. I'll be starting from scratch after a factory reset on that radio.
Good plan!
@@RCVideoReviews I hate to do this... But would you mind seeing the "issue"? I also noticed if I flip the switch from up to middle, each time the transmitter acts as if I scrolled right one click on the wheel. czcams.com/video/zt1JXearVy4/video.html
@@ronh129 That's obviously not correct. You need to contact Radiomaster. Send them the link to your video.
@@RCVideoReviews thank you for getting and sorry I didn't update on here. I was able resolve the strange behavior by Reseating the ribbon cable ends from the top board to the lower board. Not sure which side fixed it,but did both ends.
Brilliant video, thanks. How often would you calibrate? Why do you sometimes see flickering when, for example, the slide calibration is moved to the neutral point?
We just talked about this on discord. It never hurts to calibrate and it only takes a minute. That said, unless you physically change something about your hardware, it's not necessary after the first calibration. Don't worry to much about minor variances in potentiometers as there is a lot of math between the analog input and RF output. Watch your channel monitor outputs. If they aren't moving without input, then your model won't move without inputs either.
Calibrate 'n validate. More great info! I can't wait to receive the battery that was ordered so I can at least turn the T18 on! The battery is from NewBeeDrone. It's a GNB 7.4v 2s 3000mah lipo. I hope it's of good quality. So, would it be best to set the cut off at 7.6 'n 8.4?? AirHammer out!!
You should find the discharge curve or datasheet for your battery if you can. If not, and if it's a LION battery, I would use the values I gave in the video 3.2v/c = 6.4v for cutoff.
@@RCVideoReviews l just received the battery. I'm looking at it and it's as described. GNB 7.4v 2s 5c 3000mah LIPO. It's made specifically for the T16s and JT18.. I'll try to find a datasheet for it.
@@airhammer6203 You'll be ok to start with 6.4. That's safe while you look to tune it for your battery.
Hey, another great video. Liked the tip as to how to check the calibration. Also, my TX16s gives the same outputs on the 6 position switch. One last thing, how do you get the actual voltage to show on the screen beside the battery meter. On mine, I just get a flashing red text showing 0% and 0.00V
Thanks for watching. You're probably using the widget named battery. That's not the right one. You set the widget to the one that says Rud Value 0 (5th one in). When you select that one, set the source to Batt.
Thank you I had the exact same question
@@nastynine48 You're welcome.
Excellent, thank you. I would never have thought to set it to Rudder for TX battery voltage. I guess you need to do this for each particular model?, Is there anyway to do it globally? BTW what’s the battery widget used for?
Same, 19, 59, 99 on my Jumper T18.
Thanks for reporting back. On the Livestream tonight I showed how even with the 1pt offset it still outputs -100, -60, -20, 20, 60, 100. So it seems to be a calibration output bug. Doesn't seem worth worrying about.
Brilliant channel. 👍
Thank you!
Great info as always just looking at TX16s specs which says operating voltage is 7v to 8.4v
Shouldn’t this be the battery range setting 😊👍
It works fine down to 3.2v/c from the manufacturer.
I get exactly the same numbers on mt TX16S, so I think it's Open TX firmware related.
Ok, thanks for the feedback. I was a little hesitant putting a video out saying, "this is how it's supposed to be" without getting the calibration right. Thankfully I had the Jumper and saw the same issue.
Appreciate the comment. I agree, gotta be software.
I saw a chap calibrate the 6 buttons like this start on 3 go 21 then 456 instead of 123456 ?
Good idea--I did that in one of the multiple off screen calibrations. Started with 1, 3, 4, and 6.
Same 19,59,99. weird. couldn`t count the 0?
I have been calibrating my sticks wrong since day 1.
Always moved around in circles, but when I got my TX16S, this caused cal issues.
Changed to up/down, left/right and perfect.
Thank you for pointing this out.
You're welcome. Glad you're squared away. Thanks for the feedback on your 6pos values. I googled this and saw some complaints but most of those were around adding a 6 pos pot on taranis.
Hey great video. I had a question with my opentx radio but idk if you can help me. When my radio talks, there is a hissing noise. Is there anything that I can do? Thanks!
What firmware do you have?
@@RCVideoReviews actually I just fixed it. I think there's a glitch if you have your brightness too low, then you'll get hissing sound
My right stick does not center at 0. Visually it is in the middle but on the screen its not centered and all my quads tilt to one side
Run the calibration again. It should read 0 when you're done.
When callibrating the right stick on the side of the radio only reaches the middle when fully up, a bit above center, the left slider reaches the top, is this a hardware or software issue? Cant find anything on it online
Yep 99 on the 6position switch
Ok, thanks! Phew--glad I'm not alone on that one. I've been inside that radio so many times, when I filmed that, I thought the radio was trying to tell me something.
@@RCVideoReviews ye , no idea why but imo it's not that big of a problem coz it ain't a linear switch . Idk
What pins are you using with the voltage meter, do you open the battery bay and stick it to one of the pins there? I have no idea what wires you’re reading
I said in the video I connected to the XT30. The battery is connected to the radio with the balance lead so the XT30 lead is available to measure voltage.
John: I am a recent subscriber, as well as currently awaiting my registration email to join RCmodelreviews.com, as you've become an invaluable resource for me, being the proud new parent of a jumper t18! I chose this model in part based on the misleading description of the IPS screen having an upcoming feature of being a touch screen. I refer to this as misleading, because should this feature be supported in an update, we will need to purchase and install the digitizer ourselves, or have it installed. Had I known this at the time of purchase, I probably would have bitten bullet and purchased one of the more expensive RadioMaster models, however, I'm not finding the lack of touch as the deal breaker that I initially thought it might have been. Like many open source products, I'm overwhelmed by the potential of the device & software, and the learning curve is a painful process in my old age (46) but most definitely seems worthwhile, the cost savings alone over a Spektrum product with high channel count and half the features is staggering! I hope you'll be doing another live OpenTX class soon and I very much intend on donating via Patreon which I'll consider 'Tuition' for my education. Just waiting for my next paycheck!
I did have one bad experience, scared the crap out of me, only had my tx a couple of days when I saw your video about the 3 calibrations one should do upon acquisition of a new tx, I had begun the battery calibration and when I touched the contacts from my my multimeter to the exposed battery contacts, smoke emitted from the tx & she went black! "OH SHIT!" I exclaimed as I disconnected everything, including the battery from the radio and when I plugged back in, nothing happened! I was starting to despair when I tried another battery and it worked fine, and it turned out that the battery had slid from the contact inside the battery holder. I haven't fainted this idea what caused this, though I'm certain I'd done something wrong, but, wow, I really thought I killed it! If I can figure out what stupid mistake I made to cause this I will update this message so that others can be warned and avoid my mistake.
I got the same reaction to calibrating 6P Button Bar, 19,59, & 99..also got some fluctuation on digits on left 3 locations and 2 location on the right, sometimes, but 3 left definitely all the time.....? Interference, loose connection, tapped radio gently didn't make any difference...? =)
It hasn't impacted anything I've tried to do with it including two iNav setups using all 6 positions. It's more if a nit-pick than anything.
Hello: I ve done the total calibrations with analog tests. all show100's. In my radio all my models throttle only goes up to 79%. I must have set something to make it happen on all models. inputs,curves, outputs all show 100%. Any ideas where to fix this? John
Create a new model, don't change anything, see if you get the same result.
@@RCVideoReviews doing that now
@@RCVideoReviews did that and it showed 100 both ways
Anyway to reverse what I did in the old models?
It's got to have something to do with your inputs/mixes/outputs. Somewhere along the way you added something to inhibit full travel or full output.
By creating a new model and testing it with no changes, we proved out the radio and we know it's not a calibration issue. For further help, please join discord discord.gg/jSFTASU It's a much better medium for getting help than YT.
Which cable does the Radiomaster need to connect to a simulator? The radio end looks like 1/8"? Love the videos!
I just use the USB-C cable that came with the radio. It should show up as a Joystick in most simulators (not RF).
@@RCVideoReviews OK I was going to use it with Real Flight 9.5 when it is released. Will it not work with it?
@@bstearn1653 One of the subscribers said it does work. You have to connect the RF controller via USB just like normal because RF requires one of their enumerated controllers to run. But then you can supposedly connect the TX16s to the back of the RF controller and use it like a buddy box. I haven't tried it because I don't have the futaba trainer cable they used on the RF controller.
@@RCVideoReviews Ok Thanks for checking. Maybe content for a new video? :-)
I'm having trouble find an answer on the TX16s charging LED indicator. What does it mean when the green LED is blinking? Green when charging. LED off when compete. I plugged the radio into my cell charger block to charge back up over night (10-12 hours of being plugged in). The next morning I find the green LED blinking and the battery only at 70%.
This question came up in Discord and I asked Radiomaster. Their answer: "It means either the battery is not installed or there is a problem with the pack or its connectors OR The USB PSU is struggling." And "One other possibility: Check the cell health of the battery (check the IR). One of the cells could be lagging and the other going over so the good cell is going over 4.2 so it is stopping the charge to avoid going past 4.2v on the good cell"
@@RCVideoReviews you have been my go to for all my tx16s and edgetx tutorials. Great work and thanks for fast response back 👍
I had a issue were my radio went un calibrated after flying a pack every quad was flipping afterwards when were flying. Calibrated it and it was fine why did that happen.
No idea.
so i tried calibrating my 6pos switch and its all over the place I'm not sure why its freaking out. i would love some help sorting this out. its driving me nuts. I want to set my raceband channels to the 6pos switch for racing
I'm not sure what you mean by all over the place. Do you press all 6 buttons during radio calibration? I've yet to see the 6p fail calibration.
i love yoouuu
Thanks. Happy Valentine's Day to you too.
I've got my Jumper T18 pro with GNB 3000mAh 2S 5C 7.4v LiPo Battery For Jumper Radiomaster, do you know what the readings should be on radio setup? Cut off etc? I'm new to the fpv hobby and really looking forward to getting a drone and the Dji hd googles and having freedom of flying in fpv.
If it's a LIPO set it 7.2v. Below 3.3v/cell and you permanently damage the cell. 8.4v is still the top end.
@@RCVideoReviews GNB 3000mAh lipo 5c/10c 2s 7.4v 22.20wh. What amps do i set it at, for charging on a Sky rc 65 charger?
3amps. You can always figure out a 1c charge rate (which is safe for all modern Lipos) by dividing the MAH by 1000. So move the decimal 3 places from the right to get your 1c amp value. i.e. 10,000MAH would be 10amp @ 1c. 2200MAH would be 2.2amp @ 1c.
Hi! Would you know when im doing calibration my ail won't work it stays at -100 no movement thanks!
I don't know if this will make a difference or not, but you may as well try it: Make a brand new model, don't change anything, and try it again.
It sounds like something is broke if the stick doesn't register during calibration. You may have to take the cover off and see if any wires are loose/damaged.
@@RCVideoReviews thank you for your response. i did try to make a new model but it doesn't work. ok sir ill try to remove the cover look for a loose or damaged component. thank you!
hi What do I do if I do not have a battery meter?
I got my radio today with this company's 5000 battery.
I do not have a battery meter.
Why does not everything come ready like the big companies?
If you're in this hobby for any length of time, you need a meter. They could probably go through every radio and calibrate it, but then they'd would increase the cost. When it comes to using radios this advanced, you need to learn to do these things for yourself.
@@RCVideoReviews How many hours of use do you use after a full charge? I will use half the time until I have and it will take a long time . I also got a faulty radio - the connector of the battery connection comes out with the filter - the company wants me to fix it myself - they think I'm an electrician
How did you measure the battery voltage in the radio please? It is not clear what your voltmeter was plugged into. Thanks
Balance plug, after you open the battery lid.
@@RCWilliam123 Thanks
Sorry, my battery has a balance plug and XT30. I used the XT30. On my Jumper which uses the 18650's in a tray, I just stuff the leads into the +/- of the tray.
Why isnt my S2 pot more than 54?
Did you calibrate it correctly? Center it before you start..?
6pos switch! It doesn't have 0 headspace between -100 and 100 so it counts 1 as it, and therefore every value to the right from center scips 1!
Hey Marlie,
What do you mean headspace? On outputs it shows -100, -60, -20, 20, 60, 100. Wonder why they can't show it that way in the calibration screen?
@@RCVideoReviews I mean, normally values goes like 95,96,97,98,99,100,0,-100,-99,-98,-97,-96,-95... but in 6pos switch they didn't put zero, a middle position.
@@MARLIELEPPO Right, they took a range of 200 points and broke it into 5 even segments: 200/5 = 40.
Pos 1 = -100
Segment 1
Pos 2 = -60
Segment 2
Pos 3 = -20
Segment 3
Pos 4 = 20
Segment 4
Pos 5 = 60
Segment 5
Pos 6 = 100
Jim S., is one of our subscribers. He opened an issue on Github with the dev team. Maybe they'll respond and inform us of what's going on.
@@RCVideoReviews wait, isn't the discussion over whay pos4 = 19 pos5 = 59 pos6 = 99???
@@MARLIELEPPO Yes, they should be 20, 60, and 100.
Ive calibrated my radiomaster tx 16s same as you, sticks pots and sliders, all it get 100% and -100%. My channels are setup AETR but in Analogs test Ali inputs are 4, should be 1, ELE shows 3 should be 2, THR is 2 should be 3 and RUD is 1 should be 4. Im learning as i go but this dont look right please explain. Thanks
Are you mode 1?
I dont think so, Throttle is left stick and Ali and Ele on right, So on analog test should the values be on right channels for AETR? Ive never flew mode 1 dont want to.
So is this a problem in the analog test or is it ok, in mixer everthing is correct. Thanks
As long as your inputs map to the correct physical hardware and your outputs via mixes match correctly I wouldn’t worry about the debug number. What version of OpenTx are you using? I’m on 2.3.9.
Im using firmware that radio came with but in firmware tab it says muti stm opentx 1.3.1.36.bin and opentx- tx16s- bluetooth-flexr9m 2.3.9-otx.bin maybe you could explain diffrence between these numbers, I have flew quads and parrot dico for last 10 years but this is my first build and trying to learn opentx but has not been fun, im going on 3 months trying to get stick inputs in inav 2.5
0 using this radio and R xsr receiver i have sent many emails watched many viedos and read inav wiki more than once but still no joy, i have flashed and reflashed receiver and f405 wing but still no go. But i have learned some about opentx from your videos. Thanks
I watched this video twice, only to figure out that my axis was offset by the trim.
Yep, seeing 99 on 6-position as well. All exactly the same as yours. Must be a software issue.
Thanks for the report.
I see 99
all the same 99
Ok, thanks. It's confirmed now. Appreciate the follow-up.