Fridge not cooling worth fixing?
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- čas přidán 29. 03. 2020
- When a refrigerator not cooling or freezing the repair can cost $100-$1000. Whether it’s LG, Samsung, Whirlpool, GE, Frigidaire, Kenmore or any other brand, the Sealed System is the most expensive to fix. If compressor and all fans run, you can measure the temperature of Condenser Coil, and it should be significantly higher than the room temperature. If it’s not, the fridge maybe not worth fixing.
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![Refrigerator Not Cooling - How to Fix - What to Check [2020]](/img/n.gif)
Compressors & their sealed systems used to work for many, many decades. Many thx to LG for creating the 3 year compressor. Now that's progress.
thank you for this! it allowed me to self-diagnosis the unrepairable death of my LG fridge. The compressor was running quiet and the were fans working but the condenser coils weren't much warmer than room temp. It saved me the cost of a repairman coming out to tell me it would be too expensive to fix. I'll put that savings towards my new fridge.
Glad it was helpful!
How old is your LG? If it's under 5 years, LG may fix it absolutely free.
@@Your-SelfI am having the exact same issue with a 6 year old LG
Direct and straightforward. Thank you.
Thanks for watching!
Thank you very much. You've been most helpful.
This was good, I did fix my refrigerator with a new starter relay, however, I do appreciate this video!
This video can be referenced when the compressor is running but not cooling.
In your case, the compressor probably wasn't running at all... and that's a different problem.
Thanks for watching!
Thank you for the video.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for all the videos. They are all very useful. Saved me alot of time and future headaches of getting it fixed then failing again. I just checked my condensor coil and it was only a few degrees higher than room temperature. The linear compressor is hot and freezer is good but fridge is not cold enough with food spoiling. Ordered a new fridge. Mine was an LG with linear compressor, LFX33975ST french door with freezer at bottom. Lasted 9 years. Was hoping for 15 to 20 years. Oh well.
LG linear compressors are failing a lot, but since your freezer is good, maybe there is a different problem. I think your model has 2 evaporators, so the one in the fridge compartment could be covered in a thick layer of frost. And that may cause your symptoms, assuming the freezer is around 0°F. Check that evaporator before dumping your refrigerator.
@@Your-Self Thanks for the advise. That evaporator did have lots of ice built up about 6 months ago. Water was pudding up in the fridge. Defrosted it then no more water puddles or any trace of water. 6 months later, which is now, fridge no longer holds the correct temperature. Fridge set at 38 degree F but measured temperature is 60 degree F. At this point, the amount of time wasted exceeds the cost of a new fridge.
@@Jim-fe6gl I'm having the exact same issue. Ice build around the evaporator fan in the fridge compartment, lots of water puddling below the bottom fridge drawer, and now the fridge won't go below 55 degrees.
@@frankyoungman2101
The problem I had was the water drain got iced up so ends up accumulated in the fridge. Defrosting the fridge overnight solved the issue. Too bad 6 months later the compressor went. No water that time. Freezer just won't get cold enough. It was time for a new fridge. It's too bad because the old LG fridge still looks brand-new. Maybe defrosting will work for you. Good luck.
Hi, thank you for your work. My situation - small vine fridge overheats the overload protector after 10 seconds, taking around 9amps from the outlet before it happens, but the compressor is not humming during those 10 seconds. The condenser fan works fine, the compressor ohms seem correct - 5.3ohm, 5.1ohm and 10.4ohm. The voltage between the pins is 120v, before it shuts off. I even tried to apply the voltage directly to S pin for a sec, and then to R pin but again there was no humming/vibrating by the compressor.
Great vid! Thank you
You bet!
I replaced my icemaker and pump valve in a 2004 kenmore side by side. It made two rows of ice cubes then stopped. The next morning i checked around and the fridge was not very cold and the compressor was very hot. Im worried i moved it too much or plugged it in too soon after quick repair. It all went so well, so confused about what happened. Going to unplug it for 24 hrs, unplug the ice maker and put old broken icemaker valve back it and see. But i have a feeling turning the ice booster on killed the old compressor somehow, especially when.the icemaker appears to have stopped working mid cycle and the line is frozen.
Watch a bunch of videos and this one was the most helpful. My condenser coil is room temp 😭. Fridge is barely over 3 years. Sears/Kenmore. Sigh...
Glad it helped to figure the problem.
Thanks heaps, after learning the test method from you i was able to understand my 3 flashing lights to lead to me to a plug on the compressor being installed incorrectly, after rotating it around to match the symbols on the old compressor the compressor now runs. I had a technician install a new compressor today and he couldnt get it to turn on, pointing me in the direction of a new main pcb board. Compressor manufacturer spun the pins around so the plug connected sits in between vertical and horizontal position. Maybe this info will help out someone else in the future. Thanks again for the detailed video
Thanks for sharing your story!
Thank you! this helps
Glad it helped!
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
I have an whirpool inverter fridge with dc motor 3 pin,fan motor is fine got it tested but it doesn't run,what could be the problem?
Damn. Compressor is nicely warm, but coils are around ambient room temp. It's not good news, but at least this video was clear and detailed enough for me to know what the reality of my situation was before paying a service tech to come tell me it's dead.
Yep, cold condenser coils equal bad news. At least, you can put that ~$100 service call towards the new refrigerator.
@@Your-Self Is a sealed system problem likely on a 2 year old fridge? I have an LG LMXS30796S with cold coils. Never an issue until this morning. Error code 22 so I ordered a new starter relay, but now I'm thinking it may be a bigger issue.
@Matt Jones the 22 22 is not an error code. It should appear during the Test #2 only. If your compressor is running but not cooling, it's very possible the compressor is bad. If you have the purchasing receipt, call LG directly and they should replace the compressor for free.
PS. This system doesn't have a Starter Relay. It's controlled by the PCB board.
@@Your-Self I have an LMXC23796D and it shows code 22 on Test #2. It's not cold at all but all the fans are turning, the compressor is running, and room temp air is blowing in the fridge. I don't have a temp gun, but do I have any hope? Fridge is less than 3 years old...
@Randy Fortkamp, the compressor likely is damaged inside. Call LG, and they should replace it for free if you have the receipt.
Greetings - first props for posting informative and detailed videos. A question about diagnostics - an LG fridge side-by-side w/ the 1st generation of linear compressors fla150nbma (replaced 2months ago) exhibits a low cooling capacity, the temperature in the fridge is around -2C. When the compressor works, it gets hot (55C or so), the condenser coils also get warmer. The temperature decreases to -7-9C. When the compressors stops working the temperature usually rapidly increases. All the fans are working properly (except blowing not cold enough air). Is it indicative of a leak, bad compressor or some other issue?
If the temperature inside the freezer is not falling down to -17-18°C while all fans and the compressor are running, that is indicative of some sort of Sealed System problem... leak, bad compressor, partial restriction.
Was it cooling properly right after the compressor replacement 2 months ago? If so, the gas could be leaking out through a bad brazing job.
@@Your-Self true, it was ok for like 2weeks, then the temperatures started fluctuation too much, till it pretty much defrosts itself now. This was such a prompt reply. Thank you, very much, indeed!! Your video "LG fridge not cooling but running" was the one that helped with the initial fault - so again: thanks!
My fridge would cool to 60 and freezer to 40. I watched multiple videos and tried all the tips. All said and done, no change. Fans work, coil is clean and so on. Still won’t cool to where it should be. Everything is clean now and sounds normal but still won’t work. My LG French Door was built in 2017 and I called in my claim in Oct of 2022. Clearly out of warranty.
Without an argument, LG is sending someone out this week (parts and labor included) at no charge. They will also reimburse me for food spoilage (take photos of the waist).
I have the same issue with my 2017 LG french door. I live in California and when I called LG they were unwilling to pay any labor and service cost to replace the compressor. Not sure how you negotiated with LG, I am so frustrated with those expensive refrigerators that can only last for 5 years or even shorter. That is totally not environmental friendly at all. Thanks in advance for any of your inputs.
Hi there, very informative and useful videos, thanks! A quick question if you have time - I have a 2017 LG that previously stopped cooling both compartments and was warranty repaired in late 2021. Suddenly I'm having another different cooling issue. My freezer section, set to 0F tends to hover between 10F - 25F. My fridge, set to 36F, runs between 46F and 51F. I cleaned the condenser coil but got no change. When I take the temperature of the condenser coil, it hovers around room temperature so it makes me think there is a major issue. If it adds any more context, using the test modes on the PCB, everything seems to be mechanically running correctly and LG's "Smart Diagnosis" isn't finding anything wrong.
I should add, the compressor will kick on immediately using test mode 1 but once it finishes, it turns back off despite the hotter than expected temperature. I don't know much about refrigerator repair, but it makes me think that the fridge is not properly turning on the compressor when it should be.
What exactly was repaired in 2021, a compressor replacement? If so, the gas could be slowly leaking out from the brazing joints. They should probably redo the brazing for free.
But first, make sure the compressor is actually running during the normal mode. It should kick on about 5-10 min after the Test Mode is done.
@@Your-Self The compressor does seem to be running. If memory serves, they replaced the PCB and the compressor at that time, though I can't seem to find records. It is strange though, the fridge has now reached a new low (39 degrees) while the freezer a new high (30 degrees) since doing the self test.
If the freezer is not dropping down to 0°F, you better call that repair shop or LG back.
Either the gas is leaking out, or the new compressor is dying.
Thank you for this video! it was very helpful. I have an LG french door fridge with bottom freezer model LXFS30766 and I have ice buildup in the freezer section on the evaporator top right corner where the coolant lines come in. Do you think I have a leak? I measured the temperature of the coils and on the left side closest to the fan the temp is about 20 degrees above room temp, but on the right side, closer to the edge of the fridge the temp is about room temperature. Would that be an indication of a compressor failure? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
Ice build-up around the freezer evaporator can be tricky. Hopefully, somebody just left the door ajar for an hour or so, and that's what caused excess ice. Try completely defrosting everything first, and make sure the defrost water goes out the drainpipe easily (not clogged). Then monitor if the problem returns and after how long.
@@Your-Self Hi, thank you so much for the response. I did completely defrost the unit, checked all fans were working and the drain pipe is not clogged. LG replaced the compressor about 5 years ago under warranty and also the motherboard. Could it be the defrost sensor? The ice came back after a couple of weeks after initial defrost. The door was left ajar due to something falling in the back of the basket a couple of months ago, thats when the problem started.
If after the complete defrost, the freezer keeps a good temperature around 0°F for the first week, the compressor is good!
The ice build-up could be caused by a torn/warped gasket around the door, damaged/cracked plastic cover of the Evaporator Coils, or a bad defrost sensor on the Coils. Sometimes a combination of a few things together. Good luck!
@@Your-Self Thank you!
I have an LG thats not throwing air. What could it be?
My 2 yo LG refrigerator stop working the fan is running but the compressor has stopped working
Do you know why the compressor isn't pulling enough amps.
If there is a leak in the Sealed System, or the pump has worn-out inside the compressor, the amperage will be low. Also, if the main PCB is not sending enough power to the compressor (on some models), that may happen as well.
My fridge stopped cooling after a power outage. I found small hard pieces in the drain pan also... weird. I am not feeling a lot of air flow through the fridge, but a lot in the freezer. Both don't feel very cold. Would the top fan also stop the freezer from working?
It depends on the model. Older refrigerators had just one fan distributing the cold air from freezer to the fridge compartment. Newer, (but not all) have multiple fans for each compartment. After the power outage, unplug you fridge for one minute and plug it back in... doing this may reset and help your fridge.
@@Your-Self ours is a newer LG with French doors. I tried clearing out the dust from the coils. There wasn't much. The coil fan seems to be operating. But the coolant lines don't feel like they are getting cold. I'll see if I can take off the back panel in the freezer and see what's going on there
If yours is a newer LG with the Linear compressor, the problem could be with the weak compressor... running, but not cooling. If it's under 5 years old and you have the purchasing receipt, call LG directly, and they should replace it for free.
@@tisoymorena121 your compressor shit the bed. Under warranty for 10years. Contact LG if purchased from big box.
So many LG problems. I am another victim. 5 year old sealed system linear compressor stopped cooling both fridge and freezer. Cond fan is running, evap fan running, compressor running but cond coil is room temp. Coil was a little dusty. Ran diags and ThinQ reports no problems. Great diagnostic tool. LG closed on Sunday, great.
I have the same problem as well. All that you did, Mr Johnson I did too! I can't do anything until Monday!
adrian clinton sorry to hear that. I just learned there is a class action lawsuit regarding these compressor failures. Google for the link. Good luck.
@@tburton5510 Thank you, Sir!
LG extended the Linear compressor warranty from 1 year to 5 years parts and labor free replacement. If your warranty is a little over 5 years, you may be able to smooth-talk the customer service rep into covering you as well. Good luck!
@@tburton5510Mr. JOHNSON, I wanted to give you a update today June 8th. I called customer service and they will be send a repairman out to service my refrigerator. Everything is under the 5 year warranty with the free labor extended. I thank you for sharing your info which helped direct me and actually eased my nerves! I pray your situation gets resolved as well. God bless!
The coils are about 10-12 degrees fahrenheit higher than room temp, condensor is giving the slight vibration as noted from video, what would you say in this case? Issue is the freezer is not freezing evenly in some areas it seems, while in other areas of the freezer it freezes fine. It is a french style door fridge. On the back wall where the freezer doors pull out from, there is a small patch of "snowy frost" on it. Any ideas?
It could be a Freon leak, air leak, defrost issue... etc. If you could take a good picture of that "snowy frost" location, post it on a photo-sharing site and provide the link here, I may be able to narrow the issue down.
Just by looking at the picture, looks like an air-leak. Could be a one-time problem due to the door left ajar. I'd defrost everything, and make sure the Evaporator Coils behind the plastic wall with frost, is also completely defrosted, and the water runs out behind the fridge. If it happens again, you may need to call a tech to investigate.
@@Your-Self Thanks for the video and advice you gave in the comments. I confirmed the compressor and fans were good about a week ago after thoroughly cleaning the condenser coils. I will try defrosting to see if I can get temps back down, as the freezer is not consistently making ice. I also just stumbled upon the LG class action lawsuit for compressor failure which is.. great. The unit is 6 years old, and I definitely won't replace the compressor if it fails, it's going straight to the landfill, which is pathetic because I have a 17 year old Kenmore in my basement that still works as good as new.
How do I know if it's a freeon problem?
The only way to find out if it's a Freon or some other Sealed System problem is to attach a gauge to measure the pressure inside.
Hello I have a kenmore elite/lg 795 with dual evap... the fridge gets down to temp and freezer only gets down to like 20 degrees .... all fans work freezer evap only has half frost patterned ... of course it’s only two years old and sears wants to charge 600 to replace every seal component .... I would like to find the actual problem
Nice unit, but dual evaporators typically develop a gas-leak in the Fresh Food compartment. Check the fridge evaporator for oily residue. Also, if this Kenmore has the LG Linear compressor, the internal reed valve could be weak, and crack or break within the first 3 years. In either case, you can observe the half-frost pattern on the freezer evaporator. Good luck!
YourSelf thank you for the reply!! If I tap the low side will the reed valve show vacuum or low pressure like a like would show? Or code a have a restriction for this condition also... thank again for the reply
It's best to tap both sides to see the "full picture." The broken reed valve will show higher than normal pressure (while running) on the Low side (around 20 PSI), and lower than normal pressure on the High side (around 90 PSI.) The broken reed valve may create debris, and cause the restriction on the High side as well. However, if the Low side pressure is around 0 PSI, and the High side is lower than 100 PSI, you probably have a leak. If a shot of fresh refrigerant improves the temperature, you definitely have a leak.
Repairman said not worth fixing. I solved the problem by buying a 10.1 magic chef (my back up fridge)... and ordering a whirlpool side by side.
LG has a 10 yr manufacturer warranty just u might need to pay the labor for a new compressor. There's a sticker inside the left of fridge call and give em all the info they can guide you.
Just found the LG class action, unfortunately mine was just passed 5-year mark. However, it was repaired once for the exactly same reason before with-in 5 years. Now the temperature of the condenser coil is around 84F (10 F above room temp) and the discharge line close to the compressor is around 100F, inlet to compressor is around room temp, does that mean the compressor is bad?
I called the LG customer care, they said the compressor is under 10 year warranty, but I have to pay the labor by myself. @YourSelf, pls help to comment to see if it worth to contact the technician to replace the compressor.
It's difficult to say if the problem is with the compressor or a refrigerant leak without installing gauges to check the pressure inside.
Also, the problem could be with the Evaporator being heavily frosted due to a Defrost Issue. That you could check yourself. Remove everything from the freezer, and if there is a lot of frost and ice buildup on the evaporator, that's fixable.
But if there is no frost or just a little on the top of the evaporator coil, that would be a serious Sealed System problem... leak, clog, or bad compressor.
If the new compressor was installed less than a year ago, the same company should probably reinspect it for free. Otherwise, you are kinda on your own... sorry.
@@Your-Self Thanks a lot for your comments! I'm leaning to not fix but I'll try several of your advice and also contact LG again. I'll share my story later.
I am not sure i have a condenser coil... but I need help!!
The condenser coil could be on the very bottom of the fridge, behind the compressor. Sometimes it's easier to see the condenser from the front of the refrigerator.
Can you just do this by touching the coils immediately after unplugging the fridge? My new linear compressor is 1 year old (replaced on a 2018 LE fridge last year). I just tried this and the coils don't feel warm at all. Straight up like room temperature.
If this is the case, the coils can't just be replaced?
If the compressor was replaced a year ago, it's possible that the refrigerant gas has slowly leaked out through one of the seams. Or the new compressor has died again. The next step would be for a technician to attach a gauge to check the pressure. If no pressure, the gas is gone. Will need to fix the hole and refill.
@@Your-Self Thanks for the response and help on these things mate! Luckily, it's still under warranty! I just have to wait for 5 days...
Great information. I have a 12 years old LG french door that's not cooling. Ferrezer is at 30 degrre F and fridge is 42 - 44 F. The compressor is very hot and condenser is 130 degree F. Is this too hot.
Yes, the condenser at 130°F is too hot. That usually happens when regular air gets sucked inside the Sealed System due to a leak of refrigerant... it's an expensive repair if you wish to fix it.
But you could check the freezer Evaporator Coil. If it has a thick layer of icy frost, that could be a Defrost Problem... relatively cheap repair.
I'm assuming all fans are running fine.
@@Your-Self - Thanks for a quick reply. I visual check all moving parts and all checked out. No ice built up in evaporartor. I forgot to mentioned, a LG tech replaced the compressor a couple of years ago right before the 10 years warranty expired so we just had to pay labor cost. I saw some light green residues in a couple of areas of the suction line of the pipe so I think the oil is leaking. Last night I ended up refilled about 1.2 oz (capacity 4.94oz) of refrigerant in the system via the service valve (even though it barely open 'cause that LG tech installed the new compressor and bent the pipe after he done!) and noticed the temps drop 15 degree in about 4 hours in both the fridge and freezer and by morning, all temps are at set temps (36F & -2F)! This afternoon, I checked the compressor tank temp at 150 degree F and the condensor coil at 130F near the compressor, and at 75F on the far end near the cooling fan. What do you think of these temps? Thanks again for your inputs.
There is definitely a leak since it works better after adding some refrigerant.
The condenser coil temperature on the sides is not that important. If the middle of the condenser temp is closer to 100°F, that's pretty good.
So, I guess, keep using the fridge while it works. It may last for another year or a month... just keep that in mind.
@@Your-Self Yes, I think it's leaking from the light green residues I saw on the suction line. I'll keep an eye on this from now on. If I have to add 1oz of refrigerant every year then I may keep it for a little while, if it's getting bad again in a few months then I thnk it's time for a new fridge! Thanks again for your quick reply.
Helpful video! I have a 2015 Kenmore/LG Elite 795 that I bought used in 2018. After working perfect for 3 years, sudden power shut down. Replaced board, then replaced blown power fuse on board. Compressor checks out but was surprised to see that it was not the original. I replaced start relay and run cap. Unit works normal for about 5 hours then blows the board fuse again. The led on board blinks 3 times then pause then 3 times again and again etc while unit running. Coil reads at about 86 which is 10 over indoor temp. I'm puzzled. Any help greatly appreciated.
The blown fuse on the board is probably caused by a shorted AC load. For instance, a water valve when you use the water dispenser or icemaker. Could be the defrost heater when it's time to defrost. One of the fans (if it's AC voltage) but without a diagram, I'm not sure if it's AC or DC. The compressor could be shorted as well when it's getting hot. And the 3 blinks, are pointing towards the bad compressor or the board itself. It could be difficult to figure it out if it's an intermittent problem.
@@Your-Self I discovered I had a bad start relay. Been running for 7 hours but the blinking light is still there. You’ve helped narrow it down a lot. Very cold at 0 and 36. Your suggestion regarding the defrost heater gives me a gut feeling that it might be the problem. I the meantime I’ll check out your other suggestions if I can figure it out. Thank you so much for your help and quick response!
@@joelboldrey2523 I had the same model that was about the same date as yours. Just stopped working this morning as the fridge section fan not running but the bottom on blows air out @ 55F with 73 ambiance.. There was loud audible clicking from the fridge before it goes out and stop cooling. I just clean out the radiator fins and remove water from the tray but so far no luck. Will try the starter relay next.
I have an LG Fridge. My ambient room temp is 75F and my condenser coil is around 85F. Seems like it should be higher. Would you agree?
The condenser temperature should be higher on a single-evaporator unit. But if you have a dual-evaporator, this could be normal.
Also, if the evaporator is covered in a thick layer of frost due to a defrost problem or the freezer fan is not working, this temperature could be normal.
@@Your-Self Thank you kindly for your response. The unit I have is an LG LFX25978ST. I assume it's a single evaporator unit. There is no frost on the evaporator, it's clean of any dust/dirt, and the fan is working. The unit hadn't been run for around two weeks, so everything was room temperature and after 20 hours of running the unit, the refrigerator is around 50F and the freezer is 43F. Everything "sounds" normal and the compressor has been running continuously. I'm still seeing around a 10F differential between the ambient room temp and the condenser temp. Any other suggestions? I'm inclined to think the linear compressor has gone bad; a typical problem with LG, unfortunately.
I think your model has 2 evaporators. But regardless of that, after running for 20 hours, the temperature in both compartments should be lower. There is a small chance that one of the temperature sensors is bad and throwing off the algorithm. But in that case, the compressor would stop running "thinking" it's already cold enough. So if your compressor is continuously running, it's trying to cool, but can't. That probably means the refrigerant gas is leaking out or the compressor is dying. To prove it, a tech needs to install gauges to check the pressure.
LG usually replaces the compressor absolutely free for the first 5 years. After that, you'll pay the labor cost.
Hello I bought one use fridge to repair in the back the Cooper pipe close to compressor it's broken,what I can do to repair the fridge ? the last orner he checket with the technician and he cut the cooper pipe in the back ,after the orner decide to sell the fridge
I think the technician told the orner the cost to fix it's to much
But I want to fix the fridge
Thank you very much.
Yes, any Sealed System work costs a lot of money and requires special equipment and knowledge. You will have to replace the filter/drier, possibly the compressor, evaporator, condenser, and if it's an LG, you will have to program the main PCB with a special LG software.
I have LG LFC23760ST, compressor starts then after 5 seconds the relay clicks and the compressor shuts off. Is it worth fixing at all ?
If the compressor is not shorted to ground and has good resistance in ohms as on this video: czcams.com/video/zYIC7LMkKak/video.html
it's worth replacing the Start Relay. (Looks like you have an old-school compressor, not LG linear.)
@@Your-Self yes, I don’t think it’s the linear crap. I’ll try that. Thanks.
@@Your-Self just checked, it’s 6.7 on one side, 5.0 on the other and top is 11.4
No short as well. But the compressor is hot while running.
If it’s not blowing air inside the fridge what’s the problem ? Where is the fan located that blows air inside the fridge
Every refrigerator model is different, so you may have a single fan inside the freezer (behind the liner wall) or multiple fans in each compartment.
If your compressor is running, the fan(s) inside the refrigerator should be running as well. Did you activate the door switch and held it for a minute to verify the fan working? If the fan is still not working, the fan-motor or the mainboard could be going bad.
@@Your-Self Yes, I found your magnet trick and the fan is running, but blowing room temperature air. Should I have LG to schedule or find a repair tech on my own that they will cover?
@Matt Jones call LG directly, and they will transfer you to an authorized LG technician.
@@Your-Self Thanks, on the phone now. I've never had anything covered under warranty in my life. This will be cool if they actually cover it. ;) Very much appreciate your videos and your help. Do you have a venmo or BTC address I can send some appreciation?
@Matt Jones I have a PayPal account for this channel and any help is appreciated www.paypal.com/donate/?hosted_button_id=WWYV2GPVZARJE
LG quoted me $630 to have a tech come out to replace the compressor. Fridge was bought in Dec 2016 for ~$1300 after tax. Not sure if repairing is worth it. LG got a good scam! I had an old Frigidaire that lasted ~18 years before I gave it away and only because the door gasket would not form a good seal when closing the door. My LG French door didn't even last 7 years.
I have an LG that isn't cooling as well as it should. I took the back off to vacuum out the compressor coil. I was surprised to find what looks like lots of black plastic bits underneath the coil and the fan. Any idea what this could be? Thanks so much for your videos!
It's difficult to say what those plastic pieces are without inspecting them. But cleaning the condenser coil from dust is a good first step. If it doesn't help, you may need to remove everything from the freezer to look at the evaporator coil and see the frost pattern. Thick layers of ice and frost may indicate Defrost Problem. No frost at all or just a little on one side only may indicate a Sealed System problem. Good luck!
@@Your-Self Thanks for the quick response. I didn't see any ice or frost. My LG is 15 years old. Could it be it needs more coolant?
Investing a lot of money into the 15-year-old fridge probably not worth it. So if you are comfortable piercing the tube and adding the refrigerant to the system a little at the time, go for it. This may or may not work, and if it works it may last a week or a year. Since you don't have much to lose, why not!
I saw the same little black plastic pieces after investigating a failure which I suspect is the compressor.
I bought my LG for 2K and shipped oversees in August 2016 . It has a 10 year warranty on the Linear compressor. The fridge all of a sudden stopped cooling back in December 2021 Had 2 local techs looked at it both saying its the compressor. The 1st person came, plug it in, couldn't hear the compressor and he clipped the copper tubes both sides of the compressor and then told me its the compressor that's not good. Nobody opened the PCB board to check. I went ahead and bought a new compressor ($200.00), however I was told by the 2nd technician the new compressor is not good either. So I brought it back. I wonder if I can check it out myself and would like to know what should I take into consideration?
I sent emails to the store I bought it, they referred me to LG, I told my story to LG, but from there no cooperation, they don't answer my emails.
Needless to say I am stuck with this expensive fridge and don't know what to do next. any suggestions?
Thanks, Jenny
You need a competent technician who understands how computer-operated refrigerators work.
LG linear compressors usually fail to cool but can still run. If your compressor didn't run at all, it could be an electrical or an electronic problem with the PCB. Or, obviously, a bad compressor.
Since your compressor is already cut out, there is nothing you can do yourself. Try to find a tech who knows the difference between Linear and other compressors.
@@Your-Self thanks alot! Am trying but difficult here on the island. Will keep checking around.
mine isnt even 3 months old and has this issue
Hope you have the purchasing receipt for the warranty call.
damn it i got to buy a new fridge. my coils are almost cooled.
That's too bad :(
But at least you didn't have to pay a technician to tell you that you need a new fridge.
LG now pays labor on top of parts for the 10 yr warranty on sealed system.
While the warranty on the cooling (Sealed System) is 10 years, only the first 5 years absolutely covered by LG. After that, you'll have to pay for the labor cost.
What if they gave me one for free, they had just bought it, less than a year ago, would i be able to call and get the repair for free with the warranty? Seems like it is a cooling problem
@@jeffreyorozco9012 you can get it fixed. They won't just give you a new one.
Yeah thats what i was asking, so they will fix it for me ? For free ? What info would i need to give them ?@payit
@@jeffreyorozco9012 contact where you purchased. Or LG. Will need original invoice info with date of purchase, model, and serial number. LG will find you LG certified tech for sealed systems
So what causes this though
A Sealed System problem could be due to; a refrigerant leak, clog, or a bad compressor.
Any of those repairs will be expensive unless it's under warranty.
@@Your-Self my compressor seem to be running and everything seems normal fans and capacitor checked out good but I have nothing to read temp on coils I have hvac gages but o don't guess there's a niple
Yep, sounds like an inefficient (bad) compressor, or there is a leak in the system. To hook up the gauges you'll need to pierce the tubing, but that voids the warranty.
Well my coils are about 77 is that spelling DEATH? what would be the fix?...new frig obviously wtf only got in 2017 everything made of garbage these day I can see 10 years but 4?
The room temperature coils spell out a bad compressor, Freon leak, or a clog... expensive repair. If it's an LG with a Linear compressor, they should fix it for free for the first 5 years.
@@Your-Self thank you call Lowes found out I have the 5-year protection plan I ain't coming out till next week boohoo
No voltage test for any parts. It appears that you don't know how to fix it other than measuring the temperature.
If the compressor and all fans are running, there is no need for a voltage test because they all have power.
But not many people know about this temperature differential trick that points at a Sealed System problem that is expensive to fix.
Eh didn't tell you to check the starter relay could be a very cheap fix Whirlpool won't you to buy a new refrigerator yeah
The start relay helps the compressor to start. So if the compressor is already running, there is no need to replace the Starter Relay.
Pol
L
Pakistani lg probla
Kharashow
I think my fridge compressor may be tired. I tested all parts and they are good. I cleaned the tiny amount of dust off the open condenser. Put a small floor fan on low, pointed upward from the condenser line, and re-checking. So far so good...1 hour into test.
This is what I have, does it indicate a bad relay?
Whirlpool WRT111SFDW03. 7 years old. 11.2 cu ft size. Freezer on top.
Start relay
P/N: WPW10448874,
aka W10448874.
Capacitor ("cap") P/N: WPW10662129
Test relay connections with capacitor on the relay.
Results: when together I can get cap to charge and discharge thru the start relay, just like it does when it's off the relay.
With cap off and on, neither of the lower holes have continuity with each other. The hole on lower left has 0.0 ohms resistance thru the bottom blade of the back of the plug.
The lower right hole has no continuity with anything but can be used to charge the capacitor for testing.
The upper hole has 0.1 ohm resistance to the top blade on the opposite side.
Remove relay cover and visually check. I cannot get combination relay apart without breaking it, so I haven't committed to that, yet.
Ohm test the fridge compressor pins again. Make sure the Common (top) and lower pins are within 3 ohms. And the two pins at bottom should read about the sum of the Common with the Start and Run pins. See CZcams video...
Results:
Top and Lower Right : 4.4 ohm.
Top to Lower Left: 6.0 ohm.
Two bottom pins: 10.4 ohm.
None of the pins are shorted to ground.
My problem is it suddenly stopped cooling without noises or warning, but I caught it from hearing loud buzzing noise from compressor and relay area, and compressor was very hot. No smoke or smells though, and wires did not seem to be hot.
Do you think it's the combination relay? Thanks!
If you have the gray color combination start relay, usually, it's not testable with a multimeter. Because it has a circuit board inside.
A typical symptom of this relay going bad is when the compressor starts and runs for a few seconds. And then clicks off because it gets too hot.
Try replacing that relay.
@Your-Self what should be minimum and maximum compressor temps and first 18" of condenser line should measure? I'm getting up to 171 deg F on one side of compressor, and about 130 deg F on the first 18" of condenser line. With no fan. And it's about 10 to 15 deg cooler with the fan on the system for 1 hour. Thanks
The compressor should be warm but not burning hot to the touch. There is no actual temperature standard.
The hottest spot should be in the middle of the condenser. Take your ambient temperature and add 30°F for a healthy system. So, about 100-110°F is good.
The compressor and the line are too hot, probably because the start relay is not disengaging the second winding. If you keep the refrigerator plugged in, the compressor or the oil inside will most likely burn out. It's best to unplug it for now.
@Your-Self if relay or control was bad, would it shut off? It shut off when fridge temps were reached. It only took it 2.5 hours to get fridge to 39F. And freezer was at -10F. And it came back on when I lowered fridge temperature by turning the thermostat control. So would this indicate bad relay?
I guess it's cooling well now, and the buzzing has stopped?
If so, the relay could be failing intermittently... I'm not sure.