This Lawnmower Starts & Dies And Makes A Strange noise - Let's Fix It!
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- čas přidán 26. 08. 2024
- This Lawnmower Starts & Dies And Makes A Strange noise - Let's Fix It!
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➡Lawnmower back in the shop after a service.
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I HAVE BIG RESPECT FOR YOU👍👍👍👍👍I HAVE BEEN WATCHING YOU FOR MANY YEARS✌️✌️✌️✌️✌️
For amateurs, it helps to snap a picture of the carb linkages with a cell phone just in case. Sometime the throttle, choke and governor springs/linkages can be a little confusing upon reassembly.
Just working on neighbour's old mower with tecumseh. Someone reversed the throttle rod.
Always enjoy your videos, Donny!!
We appreciate you
I'm surprised, the jet didn't look dirty at all, thanks for the lesson professor.
It had to be the gasket ring between the carb and the intake. Being warped, it allowed air to go through and make it extremely lean.
What a Friday morning treat a video from the best small engine repair shop in all of Canada. Thank you Donyboy for taking usxall on this repair. You fix problems with your technical skill andxwith avlove of repairing customers equipment. Always a pleasure to watch a real professional. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Merci docteur! I feel much braver now.
NEVER knew that recoil screw was reverse thread !! EVERY time I watch your videos, I learn !! Thanks, again !
neither did Don, he started turning in to the left first, lol. Habit I know but good job on the machine
Excellent, thorough repair on this mower. First class small engine mechanic.
After letting go of my start rope, I get that same noise. I know exactly what to look for. Thanks! Craftsman Pro 8.75 Briggs.
Thanks Donny, great advice.
I did learn a lot, thanks!
You got me on that one. That carb was so clean I would have never thought that would be it.
It doesn't take much to clog it up!
Great video Don.
Awesome fix Dony. Good work
Love me some Donkyboy videos! Well done!
Great video thanks for sharing have a great day
Great job Don
well done sir. another great information video. thanks for sharing.
Thanks Dony
Nice job. Thats experience for you. And fixed the recoil also. Above and beyond. Thanks for sharing this with us.
Once again thank-you!
Good job. Informative.
Nice work! 👍
So strange it ran great as the carb looked quite clean inside. Nice work on the recoil too. 🇨🇦👍🏼
TY for Sharing
Its pretty funny reading thru the comments. Everyone seems to want to point out one particular thing that caused the issue, or how they know the answer and you dont. What is wrong with these people?! What I really noticed is that you expertly explained and addressed ALL of the issues. The carb clean, new o-ring, new gas. Check this, check that. My takeaway is that a proper fix is rarely just one thing. Its really great to have an experienced pro like you walk us thru ALL of it.
I have the same machine, and I’m very happy that you expand on the recoil issue, Merci Donyboy
Nice job
Very cool. Thanks!
Always learn something from your videos, many thanks!
I would like to see a video on older longer carbs which are found on Tillers
Good job 😊
It's always a pleasure to watch your videos. Good quick fix! Thanks!
very informative. good job brother 👍 Thank you
Good video mate ..
good video, thank you
many years ago i had one that was so corroded (looked like milk inside) it had eaten away a section of the part that holds the float pivot pin (left index finger at 2:55) . cleaned it , formed a new one from jb weld , and drilled new hole . it worked !
Awesome video don. You definitely know your stuff that is why I keep going back to you for my small engine stuff 👍
👍👍👍.Thank you
Great job Don!! So many of these no start issues can be solved with just a bit of troubleshooting and a touch of elbow grease.
Another good one where I've learned something else. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge with us. You are a real expert in what you do and I think a real public service.
Great video! Nice seeing a metal instead of plastic carb.
U really are a great small engine tech Donny. U said next hopefully you'll get to show us a 'proper dirty' carb to repair. Well I think in today's repair the fact the carb WAS so clean inside and you didnt go arhhhh there it is as you found the blocked passage, is a lesson in itself that sometimes the smallest unseen particle is enough to prevent a carb working properly and running your micro drills and carb cleaning tool through all the jets and passages is important whether they look clean ot not. I like that passage cleaning tool u have with the coil or spring type stokers. Great job.
Thanks, Dony. Nice to see a carburettor that's fairly easy to remove/replace -- it's obviously not a .....
Good video man
Dam good job
awesome vid
You can put little carb parts like the bowl jet, emulsion tube, etc., in a ziplock bag with cleaning solution of choice, seal that and put it in an ultrasonic cleaner for a while. The ziplock usually floats with smaller parts. Not everyone has an ultrasonic cleaner, but those who do can clean things easier and faster. Larger parts can go in a larger ziplock and parts with sharp edges may need two. The ziplock allows only water in the ultrasonic cleaner, as per manufacturer specs. I guess the emulsion tube doesn't have any horizontal holes to clean.
Nice, fairly easy fix and the carb looks and works like new. Great job, Don. 👍👍
" Not everyone has an ultrasonic cleaner", you can buy one for less than $50. Good enough for small parts.
@@stanimir4197 I bought a VEVOR 3.2 Liter in December 2021 on Amazon for $85. It really only holds about 1, but it does what I need and has held up nicely, no issues.
@@100vg indeed, I've noticed the prices has increased. The offshore cleaners appear decent enough. Other than that I consider the ultrasonic cleaner a very useful tool - even a small one can clean jewelry, all kinds of electronics, bicycle/chainsaw chains, rust from small details, carbs. Aside ziplock bags even jars (plastic/glass) work well enough.
Nice work 👍 good video
Good show Dony
OK, guess I have alot to catch up on for sure. Alot has changed since my old vacu/pulsa jet carb days. Yeah, that jet didn't look dirty, but it doesn't take much for sure. Perhaps that original swelled oring was messed up and there was an air leak. I always worry about those bowl/fixed jets, seems like it would be easy for crud to hide inside that cavity even though the two side feed holes and the one metering hole are clear. Guess I would have to spend some time with that automatic choke linkage to figure out what that is all about. And yeah, that cheap plastic recoil looks pretty delicate, those pins must break frequently.
Great job sir! My Toro TimeMaster has the same recoil starter and after a while the pawls start to creep out and make noise while it’s running. I’ve found that a little dab of sticky grease like plumbers silicone grease on them helps to hold them in the retracted position so they won’t vibrate out and get noisy. Nothing’s broken on mine and I don’t know why they do it but a good cleaning and a tiny dab of grease fixes them for months.
On older machines with the needle seat , blowing air in the gas inlet will blow the rubber seat right out of the seat and be lost forever. Its best to only blow air in from the carburetor, not the inlet tube, that way you do not accidentally do that. I automatically blow the carburetor every time so as not to make that mistake. I do like using my ultrasonic cleaner on every carburetor, even a clean looking one like that one like that.
That model did not have a seat in the carb. It had the rubber tip on the needle.
I'm with ya, I consider an air compressor and an ultrasonic essentially carb tools. And the micro drill for drilling out jets, etc.
The noise is probably the .pull start system just My thoughts on the noise when you have the engine running
Its always weird how something like old fuel can cause a bad or no running engine. It can look perfectly fine. And if you throw a flame to it, will go right up. But run? Nope. But you're so right. Just dirt or grass in those jets and idle vents can cause I terrible running engine. Good little information video Don.👍
Great info, as always. If you can’t remove the emulsion tube, How do you clean the side holes? Couple things I do, cut tips off torch tips and put air through to remove the soft seats. Take care.
I noticed the deformed o-ring when you were taking the carb off as an issue but when I saw the carb I knew it was the main issue. The problem is that if you have to take a carb off you might as well look inside of it to reduce the chance of a comeback.
I am thinking that the gas was bad and would not burn! That carb looked to be in good shape. Cheers from Virginia! -KB
Great video as usual. Whenever my 8 yr-old pressure washer won't start after a couple of pulls, I clamp off the fuel line, pull the bowl and clean the seat in the little brass bolt. I usually have to do this about once a year after it's sat unused for several months. Sometimes I can see an obstruction and sometimes I can't but it works every time. Wondering if adding a fuel filter to the line would help prevent this?
Hi Dony, my lawn mover Brigg&Straton 6.75 have issue strange noise ,please show me how to fix recoil Thanks
Certainly a good tutorial on the way to not do things i guess.
Mistakes that i thought you made as follows
1. Drain the fuel from the bowl drain screw to see if there is water in the bowl.
2. Blow the carburettor clean before removal.
2. Clean the outside of the carb before opening it up.
3. Remove the emulsion tube & clean.
4. Blow out the idle circuit & remove the internal screen filter to clean.
5, there is absolutely no reason to replace parts that have rust, just clean the rust off back to bare metal. The part you were looking at is aluminium so there won’t be any rust there anyway.
5. Remove the idle air fuel needle & clean.
Something about those NEW Briggs carbs....will look clean. But even the slightest bit of Ethanol. It will clog....and the orings need replacing seems every 2 to 3 years
I like how you say " I hope you learned something today?" Don every time we watch your videos you learn us something. Quick question? You said don't use cheap O rings, what do you recommend? Thankfully I have acquired a good bit of these O Rings from buying new carbs. Sometimes the old O rings were good
I would of started with a burn test on the old gas. I’ve had a lot of problems lately where the fuel looks fine, but it won’t burn with a blow torch on it. Symptoms would be needing starter fluid to get it going, even after warm up.
Had same problem, fixed same way.👍😁🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸✌
grouse work Donny mate a very common problem on those engines but yeah an easy by and i do prefer working on those carburetors aka carby,s as we call them here in Australia but yeah no different to our legendary Victa P/T (Power Torque) motors which also use the G4 type of carburetor too and cheers from Australia 🐨🐑🦘🌴🇦🇺 or the land down under to your area in Canada 🇨🇦 Ontario and i hope the Autumn/Fall season is doing ok in your area.
What is that green cylinder on the mower base? I've seen it on most of the mowers you work on, but don't know what its is, as I've never seen on on a mower here in the states.
Hi Donny,
are you sure it wasn't the o ring that had caused the poor runnuing? It looked pretty knakered when you took the carb off.
I've seen them like that before and they ran perfectly fine
What PSI do you use?
That was one dirty mower.
Hey Donyboy73
Now the premium gaz contain up to 10% of éthanol, on evrey gaz company
It is still recommand to use a High octan gaz for snowblower, or landmower
On my motorcycle they say to use a premim gaz for performances, (hight compression engine)
What about the small engine, whath do you recommand ?
Thank you for alls...
Sounds like recoil grabbing
Ethanol. As soon as I heard it, I thought 'fuels fubar'd'. Dude prob left the mower outside with the gas cap loose, or his gas can lives outside, near some water feature, a pool, pond, river, whatever - any source for extra humidity. Ethanol in the fuel pulls water out of the air all by its wee self.
It pulls the water out of you when you drink it too.
That's why it's best to buy gas from busier places, so it doesn't sit and age in the tank for long, and find a good source for ethanol-free for yr motors, while you can at least, before we're all forced to "upgrade" to battery operated.
And if the ethanol-free in yr area is only around 10% higher priced, fill your car with that. It might cost more, but it's 10% more fuel, it's more energy dense and yr car will love you for it.
Unfortunately for me, that only happens like once a season, but I take advantage of it when it do
The tiny moulded-in pivot pin design to hold the pawls in the starter is really poor. The pins will likely be prone to breaking off. Could have been much better if they'd made holes in the housing and used stainless steel roll pins as the pivots. If there's enough plastic thickness under the broken off pivot, maybe the housing could be drilled and a metal roll pin installed to repair the housing? Liked the video! Cheers.
Do you work on Honda GX series very much ? There extremely popular in our area on air compressor and pumps 😊
Why not clean out the fuel tank? there could be debris and gelled fuel in there also.
What would you charge somebody to do all that?
And that’s about all it takes for today’s homeowner to just say the hell with it and decide to buy another mower when they find out how much the repair bill will be 😮
Most people are cheap here
What is that noise doesn't sound good
I am think'n that the gas that "looks good" was really not so good afterall. Good "catch" on the pawl.
I would bet on bad fuel.