Level Up Your 3D Printing w/ These 7 Specialty Filaments
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- čas přidán 14. 05. 2024
- In this video, we'll be exploring seven lesser known, unique 3D printer filaments for you to try out. Brought to you by PCBWay - your one-stop-shop for PCB prototypes and assemblies. Check them at jle.vi/pcbway
In this video, we'll learn about the material characteristics of each filament, the strengths and weaknesses of printing with it, its printability on consumer-grade 3D printers, and how it compares to other filaments. Then once we understand those elements of each filament, we'll look at some of the ideal use scenarios and examples so that you have a better understanding of exactly what you can and should be printing with each of these filaments.
So whether you're a relative beginner or a veteran 3D printing enthusiast, I can guarantee that you'll discover something new.
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🎥 IN THIS VIDEO: 🎥
00:00 Introduction
01:33 Polyether Block Amide or PEBA
06:41 Polycarbonate Carbon Fiber or PC-CF
10:33 Thermoplastic Elastomer or TPE & Chinchilla
16:02 Polyvinyl Butyral or PVB
19:20 PolyPropylene or PP
22:35 Co-Polyester or CPE (HG100)
25:40 NonOilen
29:09 Conclusion
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HEY there! Thanks for watching this video. I read every comment... so leave one!
shoes yes if you share the stl
No, thank you. I'll not gone watch after see that baby killers flag behind you. Don't get me wrong, that's not hate. Just truth. I can't support baby killers or their supporters because of my hearth. -Unsubed.
The script feels like it was written by chat GPT, soo repetitive
Acrylic is good for 3d printing
yes i would like to see a barefoot show if you share the file
Lots of great content here, but it seemed like there was a LOT of padding and repeated info.
As a newb to filiment it helps. remember this is for noobs. also people may jump right to a specific filiment for reference, so repeating it as needed is more comprehensive
I agree, great content but the text almost seems written by ChatGPT sometimes with the amount of repetition.
I love the idea of 3-d printed footwear. Both videos I've seen on youtube went through a single prototype and had mixed results as you'd expect. The design definitely seems to be the hard part. You'll probably want to plan on multiple prints and budget enough printer time so that you're not in a rush to attend a conference/go on vacation/get a video out the door.
Same here, interested in the peba and chinchilla filaments you mentioned. Would love it if a company brought out lightweight foaming versions of these materials.
I print with PP on a fairly regular basis. The lab I work for often prints prototypes for the local hospital and PP is a go to for us because of everything you mentioned. I find it is easier to print with than TPU as long as you can solve the bed adhesion issue. We simply wrapped a glass bed with packing tape as PP will easily stick to itself. My favorite filament we have produced at my lab, though, is a LDPE composite with a density of 0.64 g/cm3. Crazy light weight with amazing impact resistance.
yes PP will stick to itself....sometimes a little TOO well when trying to get it to let go of the bed/tape ect.
@@SirLANsalotI’d talk to a doctor for that one.
PCCF and ezPCCF also do very very well when used for 3D printer toolheads. High rigidity and low weight gives some great input shaping graphs. Not to mention the added benefit of basically never being able to melt your toolhead+ducts
I used White (titanium oxide powder) PC for the parts cooler and BL touch probe mount/protector. Printed at 6mm³/s, it's strong enough to smash into parts and stopping the stepper motors on failed prints and forgetting about a print sitting on the print bed when homing 😅 enclosed @60C for about 2 years with no signs of warping. Although I'm certain if I remove it and check there will be some warping, possibly caused by annealing.
I use PC Glass Fiber for other projects which makes it surprisingly impact resistant while stiffening it up. Not as much as Carbon Fiber, but halfway there
I use a lot of CPE from fiberlogy, it is food safe, high heat resistance around 110° and easy to print.
It's like a soft PC. I love this one.
For the PP use PP tape with no heat bed, it's cheap and so efficient.
Good video.
PP should be one of the best plastics out there. It´s 80% of all plastics worldwide and thus you could use a lot of recycled stuff. It´s also super cheap.
Hey I've been in a 3D printing rabbit hole with your stuff. Not sure if it was a recent video or not where you had to leave your home but super happy to see it looks like you're back home safe and sound
Thanks for making these awesome videos! You are a great help and please keep creating videos like this
Thanks for the video. Going to try CPE following this video. Sounds like what I have been looking for.
Not sure if you've covered this or not -- in your video, you recommend hardened steel nozzles several times. Printing with CF-PLA, I could detect signs of nozzle wear (bottom surface flattening, bore widening) in under one 1kg spool of filament. The first mm of wear happened FAST (thinnest part of the material) and then it was slow, steady wear -- I could track it in my stadily drifting Z offset. I switched to a cheap Ruby nozzle on Amazon from MOD3DP as a test (not sponsored) and it legit has not lost 0.1mm of its tip. Pros, lasts longer than a hardened steel nozzle. Cons, slightly worse stringing. I'd be curious to hear your experience.
What an amazing video, so slick and informative! Genuinely one of the best videos I’ve seen on CZcams full stop. Great work, appreciate it! Also going to try CPE seems a no brainer.
Wow, thanks!
Thank you for these types of videos. Being new to 3D printing, I love learning about all the different types of filaments and what all they can be used for. You have become one of my favorite CZcamsrs for presenting content about 3D printers. Keep it up.
Glad you and your family are safe. Best wishes in 2024.
My pleasure! Thanks for the kind words
Agree, I dig This Channel..🤙🏻
Hey hope all is well for you and your family given the situation in your neck of the woods!
Thank you!
@@thenextlayer Hey dude. Same here. I hope you and your family are safe. I don't care about governments, or getting swept up in other people's causes. But I do care about regular folks just trying to live life. Take care!
I have printed with Prusament PVB and it prints great with no discernible smell. I also have a Polysher for smoothing it with IPA vapor. The Polysher works pretty well but has issues getting to all the surfaces leaving some areas with layer lines. I also found the vase mode PVB prints take almost a week to dry out and become as firm as they were after printing.
I noticed this as well, it stays soft for a long time. If you heat to 30-40c it will dry faster but may warp. Drying after a day or so of ambient will reduce warping/shrinkage from the active drying
Great video, another great entry in your series. FYI it’s my understanding PP is food safe as well.
Idea for another entry this series is a similar type of rundown of “all” the food safe / contact safe filaments, compare and contrast, and more specifics about what is needed to make each “food safe” material create actually food safe objects.
Again great work, keep it up. Congrats
I bought a roll of Prusament PCCF. Had it over a year before I found anything worthwhile using it for. Made a splash guard for my buddy's electric bike. Probably could've used ASA or even CF PLA but he was paying for it and it will be taking impacts from rocks etc when off roading. I figured I should test out and see if my Bambu P1S could handle it *easily* after changing to hardened parts. To my surprise, I tweaked a couple PC settings on the generic PC profile and it printed like a DREAM.
Hey man, I love your stuff. You really make my life better with every video. Thank you
Very informative. Thanks! Even more filaments to try 🙂
Just found this channel. Great content. Hoping you are safe and praying for you and your family.
Thanks and welcome
thank you for your hard work in making these videos and helping us out
Nice video! Just thinking of getting a bamboo labs printer and wanted to see about the filaments and any trouble I might encounter. You video was quite informative thank you.
Good work and good material about diffrent materials, materials that wehave miss for last few weeks. Also congrats of your road to 100k
One point maybe worth calling out for flexibles is what filaments they can bond to if any, like PLA and TPU, as that creates lots of options of combining rigidity and flexibility as required eg as is used for tpu hinges in pla prints.
I've had good success printing PETG on top of NinjaFlex for soft vice jaws. No dovetailing needed, I just swapped from NinjaFlex to PETG on a layer change. My application was also helped by my profiles for PETG and NinjaFlex having the same printing temperature.
I've used PVB by way of PolySmooth and their Polysher (a box that generates IPA fog rather than trying to mist it by hand). It does what it's supposed to, but always felt like it was better off with some initial processing first to reduce the time it needed to be exposed to the solvent. If I ran it for too long the plastic seemed to become permanently softer, though sometimes over weeks it would regain the initial hardness. It is a nice effect when it works, without having to paint and sand and paint and topcoat... You'll lose hard edges and fine details the more you smooth it, of course.
Also used a fair bit of PC-CF, in all three of my printers (Mk4, VCore3, X1C). It's good for "I don't want to care about it getting left out in the sun and deforming or breaking". No idea if I've needed it half the times I've used it, but it's worked every time from parts on the outsides of trucks and RVs to printer toolheads (I've made a few EVA3s out of it). The CF seems to have helped a lot with ameliorating PCs desire to warp in less well heated enclosures.
Looking at playing with a new thing called PETG Polyhex from IC3D. They are claiming it has PC-like performance and chemical resistance without the warping and other eccentricities. Supposedly designed with the Army for easy printing and durability in the field.
This is one of the the better unique filament compilations.
I would love to find a filament that is like rubber in terms of being naturally grippy. TPU just isn’t naturally grippy, and there are so many applications for the extra grip. Tires, shoe soles, drive belts, clips.
As always, great video. I might actually use some of those in the future.
Can't wait for the shoe video (I kind of wanted to make some myself from my very first flexible print).
You are getting a little better at saying the names of molecules 😂
17:04 for a good clear rigid material, amphora 3300 is phenomenal. It's a co-polyester that maintains really good rigidity, while printing absolutely transparent components. It's a little pricey, but it actually was a ground breaking filament when it initially was released
What would recommend for printing prosthetics? PEBA or chinchilla ? I use TPU for sockets that go in the finger stub but also for the finger tips. The prosthetic I print is the Knicks Finger prosthetic
Chinchilla is great for making buttstock pads. Anyone that does 2A 3D printing, it's nice to have a sample to make the occasional buttstock cushion
I finally got a 3D scanner, so I'd love to see a video on making footwear! Especially considering i have some of those orthopedic insoles
Thanks man! Nooilen looks rad and now I have to get some!!
You bet!
14:54 the chinchilla looks like a great material for a pad for our diaper bag. It’s just a mech fabric right now so on one shoulder it slips a lot. This could help with that.
I've been looking into getting a roll of PP because it's one of the few filaments that has proper resistance to gas and oil. It's the ideal filament for printing things like oil funnels or gas can attachments
When i first started printing ive heard of pvb. It was advertised that it prints like pla or petg but als you mentioned it can be smoothed with ipa. So i bought one roll and started going. I also noticed that smelly smell and extremly bad layer adhesion and it didnt took me long, to throw it in the corner. Also had issues with the filament being satred with water and i didnt had a filament dryer at that time.
Yep. I kind of hate it.
*UPDATE*
Received a roll of PC-CF in the mail yesterday and my god am I in love with this stuff! Prints easy on my P1Ss, amazing mechanical properties, and that finish looks absolutely beautiful. Did a Benchy to torture test with a hammer and torch compared to a PETG and PLA one, and doing some motorcycle helmet comms mounts out of it right now and they look top notch
I've had several printer/toolhead parts from PA-CF and had to reprint them using PC-CF because PA-CF parts becomes by time (about a year) too flexible (almost like a rubber). Although all the parts could be printed from ABS/ASA, the PC-CF remains to me as the only high temperature resistant material which can be easily printed on open printer (basically no warping and still good layer adhesion, at least the Prusa flavour of PC-CF).
PC-CF (still talking about Prusa flavour, I've never tried any other PC-CF vendor) is hydroscopic, yet printing from filament dryer is not mandatory (it is slightly higher hydroscopic than e.g. PETG, so no torture like Nylon or so).
BTW. Most of the PC-CF (about three spools or so) were printed using nickel plated copper nozzle :-). The nozzle is still fine. But on my second printer, with Revo hotend, I even didn't tried to print it with brass nozzle (I immediately ordered obxidian nozzle) since brass is really soft in compare with nickel plating.
Prusa PCCF sounds really nice! I've heard that 3DXTech PCCF is really hard to print and requires a heated chamber, which makes it impossible for open frame printers.
How was your experience with nickel plated nozzles? I never tried them for abrasive filaments. Three spools of CF filament is pretty insane. What brand do you use?
@@leonjiang2882 not prusament pc-cf but I put maybe 2/3 of a spool through a phaetus nickel plated copper nozzle in my rapido and the end of it is very visibly worn down. That nozzle is now great for ironing haha
@@leonjiang2882 Uh, I don't see my answer from yesterday :-/
in short, the nozzle was (actually is, but I switched to the Volcano type nozzle) T-V6 by Trianglelab.
Hi, Thanks for the video.
Can you put the videos sources for all the clips in your videos
Is there any guidance on the UV resistance of these? I often have the need to print plastic for outside and the Sun is a huge enemy. Maybe skip the shoes, the risk of tendon and ligament damage from the tarsals to the lower back is real. It will need a /lot/ of prototyping to get pain free.
Peba is so interesting, and the shoe concept is what popped in my mind before you even mentioned it. How cool would it be to print out a whole thing of shoes for a charity drive?
Super tempted to try it on my k1 max, i hope it gets adtoped more so it can go down in price first at least. Lol
awesome video!!! Thank you sir
Cool, do you know what type of material Wilson used to make the airless basketball?
Is there a UHMW version of 1.75mm filament? I haven’t found anything except articles for comparing Nylon PA6 to it or just saying to use it instead. The only filament hit I had on google was filament sales for high strength synthetic ropes.
This was really interesting, I hadn’t heard of a few of these of these filaments like PEBA and Chinchilla, I think you should try PEEK if you haven’t already, it is one of the strongest materials out there, however it is difficult to print and quite pricey at around $600-$700 USD a Kg. PEKK lacks some of the properties of PEEK but is significant easier to print being around as difficult as PETG, it is at the higher end of the price range before at around $700 USD a Kg. Excellent video and very informative👍.
big monies
This channel isn't vision miner lol but, seriously the price for a machine to properly print peek is ridiculous, not to mention the price of the filament itself. You can build a capable machine but, that's outside most peoples wheelhouse and there are not a lot of use cases where it even makes sense in an industrial setting certainly not for a hobbyist.
@@thirtythreeeyes8624 I took a peek at your comment and I agree tbh
Yeah I agree with the impractical nature of Getting the right machine to print PEEK and the price of the filament itself is insane but if he could justify it done the line it would make an interesting video, but this is highly unlikely.
I've got some tpe but can't get it to print it slips out of the track on my snap maker j1 and there is barely any room for it to get out but it does.
Good video, though I think the constant asking for comments is a little annoying. I get that you want engagement but I think asking after literally every filament is a bit much
I had problems with PC-CF in high temp environment (93c dental cleaning machine) and a little bit of mechanical stress (a couple 100g), It started to deform. Switched back to PC and it was good. Prusament PC blend and Prusament PC-CF blend. 100% infill.
Thanks for sharing
I used PP for a medical prototype for a senior design team. pp is a command material in the medical industry and it was possible to get medical grade versions. Problem is that warping is really bad. Even with a bed at 90-95c and PP pro bed glue. It almost completely messed up the threads. I used it on a bambu labs p1s
PP is also used in laboratories, where you need to autoclave medium to ensure is steryl..
@TheNextLayer - Out of curiosity, what is that loud whirring noise mixed with a clicking sound that I hear in each of the shots showing your printer? It almost sounds like your StealthBurner has a loose valve rocker/lifter (found on the valves of a normal car engine).
That’s me showing the extruder skipping with flexible filaments
PEBA is indeed a top tier material for elite running shoes due to its compliance and resilience, usually combined with a carbon plate to stabilise. However in running shoes it is used in a foamed version, I don't think it could be printed with the same properties, and even in the foam form there are huge differences between different versions.
When it comes to the processability of PEBA filament in FDM printing, especially for midsoles of shoes, we have verified it not only experimentally but also in custom shoe production. The verification was conducted in collaboration with the Footwear Design Studios of the University T.Bati, utilizing hollow structures to achieve comparable or better properties than in mass shoe production. While the efficiency for mass production with FDM is limited, it serves its purpose for verification or custom manufacturing.
PEBA filament is not exclusively intended for footwear; it makes sense primarily in the technical engineering field. Thanks to its high abrasion resistance, temperature range, and chemical resistance, combined with its elastic behavior, it is truly an exceptional material, and I'm pleased that this excellent video has introduced it to users.
I basically never heard of any of those special filaments, well except PC or PC-CF. CPE sounds nice. Would be nice to print stuff in something that has the strength of PLA, and heat resistance of PETG or even better. Also UV resistance would be nice. I was considering trying out ASA (have a roll or two purchased recently) but with the health considerations in mind when doing so. If there instead one of these filaments in this video could combine all these properties, and at the same time print more easily, and better for the health, it seems to be a non-brainer. Of course taking the cost into mind as well.
3d printed footwear was my first thought. some sandals made from a 3d scan of my hairy, ugly stompers may very well be worth it to me!
I appreciate the work you put into these videos, but I offer some constructive criticism to make them more interesting for me to watch (i.e., these are just my opinions).
1. Your title is deceptive as you did not print all of these filaments. (Okay, you fixed this one already.)
2. Good videos are more “show” than “tell.” You use a too-high percentage of irrelevant and borderline deceptive stock footage. You also play the same b-roll clips over and over; I would rather watch a talking head than b-roll of you spraying alcohol on a PVB vase a half dozen times. Thank you for the kittens, though. I want to see more things that you print, not a half-finished 3DBenchy, and it is not at all clear if the watch strap you showed was yours or stock footage. Please show footage of 3D printed items rather than injection molded mass-produced parts. Yes, filament is expensive, but many manufacturers offer free or inexpensive samples, especially to CZcamsrs.
3. As you are largely talking about products you have zero or little practical experience with, do more research. Bad information is worse than none. For example, you said that NonOilen was the only food safe filament (you did admit you found another), but you ignored colorFabb nGen, Tauman t-glase, Filament.ca TRUE Food Safe PLA and PETG, and quite a few others. Food safe filament is not uncommon. Another example is that polypropylene will not stick to blue tape as you showed, but common polypropylene packing tape works well.
4.Reduce redundancy. You have a template for discussing filaments consistently, which is good, but you mention some things repeatedly without benefit. One example is when you mention moisture absorption for a filament multiple times. Once is plenty. And I could not count the number of times that you said that TPU is stretchy, same for TPE and PEBA.
Overall, tightening up your script to about 15 minutes would make this video more watchable (and less work for you searching for stock footage).
I hope you find this helpful, I want your channel to do well.
Very nice video! btw, did you cover PCTG in any of your videos?
I’m wondering is cpe is just a branded pctg. Pctg seems much more mainstream and the benefits are verbatim to the states benefits of cpe.
Fairly new to this, One thing I've been trying to do is print mirrors, PVB looks like it might work
I’d even be tempted to wear said shoes
Recreus (maker of FileFlex elastic filament) might have a good shoe design to download. I've gotta try printing FilaFlex again, it has been around before TPU even became popular. I think I bought mine when I still was using a Makerbot Thing-O-Matic.
Super interesting, probably won't be using most of these anytime soon.
Been watching since your first video about gridfinity, and this is the first minor criticism I've ever had, and the simply how repetitive asking the audience about their use of each filament individually instead of just asking for input all at once at the end, or maybe once before ad and once at end.
Keep up great work, stay safe, and will continue to comeback to see what you do next.
Good feedback! Thanks!
Hey ✌️ I'd love to see an airless Basketball (Wilson Gen 1) made of PEBA, but it's really expensive 😬
Can you make that happen and test its bounciness? 😁
Treat Nonoilen like ABS minus 60 degrees.. It loves to warp and is easy to overcool. But when you tune it in, it's beautiful.
During Covid19 I used PP-filament to print ear savers for face masks. I used some PP - packing tape (transparent) on the heatbed to avoid warping and was able to print without heating the bed.
Loving the recent videos 👍
Is that an ERCF I see on top of the Voron 2.4?
I have used Chinchilla in many projects over the years… Never printed it though lol. I use it as gasket material. I don’t know why, but I’m scared to try and print it!
It's been awesome watching your channel grow and evolve. I am glad you and your family are safe. I look forward to seeing this channel pick up even more speed in 2024. Cheers and keep up the hard work!
What about ASA-CF missed I'm your carbon vid? Since ASA is great for outdoor use , UV resist and Heat and rigid and is the favourite outdoor material than is the CF version even better outdoor ? :o
PEBA = This is perfect to print a flexible case for my bicycle tools.
You should definitely make a video about the new Multiboard from Keep Making! It is like the HSW but it seems better or more complex(especially with the threads).
Yep. Considering it!
I also am interested in Multiboard. If only I hadn't finished printing a ton of HSW wall plates...
Nice video. Would love to see a test of the new Banbu Lab PA6-GF
Glass Fiber Reinforced PA6 (Nylon 6)
I didn't realize polypropylene was so flexible and jammed up the AMS on my X1 :P seems like it made some nice prints before that though.
I thikn it would have been worth mentioning that the adhesion problem with the otherwise excellent PP comes from the fact that it almost exclusively sticks to itself. That's why people typically use regular packaging tape that is often made from PP or buy specific build plates with a PP toping. Those tend to be quite expensive though.
Otherwise thanks for another entertaining video!
Good point! PP is racist AF
Definitely interested in a PEBA shoe video!
Greentec Pro from extrudr is also an interesting filament. It is environmentally friendly and has good mechanical properties
Have you come across any "food safe" flexible filaments that can reliability be used for food container lids? A video about the post processing requirements for making food safe prints out of various materials would be really neat.
I second this, imagine being able to print your own tupperware and not having to worry about losing lids!
Unless your printer doesn't print any not food safe filament, any food safe filament you put in will be contaminated
Unless you're cool with food getting into the microscopic cracks of fdm printing there's no such thing as food safe filament.
You would never store food in something that has hundreds of microscopic holes that can harbor bacteria.
Part of the issue of food safety can't be addressed by the filament material. The process of FDM printing creates small holes and valleys where bacteria (and/or bacteria food) can reside and be difficult to clean.
No filament is truly food safe just because of the layer lines, the material is food safe the product made with the material (also brass nozzle) is not.
I’m new to serious prints and would like help!! After getting bambu x1 I’ve printed like crazy. Before I rarely did anything because it was too time consuming or never worked. ANYWAYS
What’s a good next step from pla I’d like to make functional parts (boring hinges or replacement parts). I also like to design my own stuff like I’m working on a spring load backpack attached yeti holder but don’t know where to look. Any suggestions are appreciated!
Try PETG next
@@thenextlayer thank you ! I’ll try out the PETG I’ve enjoyed the video !
Yes I use PC-CF and Nylon-CF filament for making horse shoes which we glue onto the hoof of the horse, we do a 3d scan of each horses hoof, so we can tailor the shoe for the horse, due to this method we the horses hooves are healthier making the horse healthier, we can also leave the shoes on longer.
You should take that Chinchilla TPE and print a Purple Matress-like pillow out of it and see how it holds up.
Is PEBA good for BattleBots?
can you make a next video in this series about filaments like PEEK/PEI/etc (you don't have to print them, I just want to know properties and I believe that others would too and I am curious)
If more people request it I’ll do it!!
or.... make a colab with zack freedman (voidstar lab)
@@thenextlayer I would second this request.
Speaking about rare filaments, whatever happened to FilamentOne???? They were my go to for filament, I had the best results with their filaments. Thankfully, I bought like 6 or 8 of their "ultramarine blue" in PLA Pro, and one roll of ASA, I love that color!!!!. I also bought a few other colors of their PLA Pro, but that was just 1 or 2 rolls. If anyone knows who carries a color close to that ultramarine blue, I would love to hear about it.
T-Glase from Taulmans is made from PETT and is FDA approved for food contact and storage!
How many of these can the x1c print
PPS and PPS-CF are also very weird and cool!
Excellent video and thank you so much! I haven't looked into the filaments that are better suited for industrial apps. Something I've been meaning to do, as I will be making parts for that niche. This was a great introduction. One thing I wish you had included was the UV resistance of each filament for use in outdoor parts. That's a critical requirement for some items I'll be making in the next couple of months. Thanks for all of your effort.
Maybe there are others interested in a video on the best 5 or 10 filaments that can be used in outdoor applications; covering UV resistance, temperature ranges, and water resistance? Thanks again.
You got me thinking when you said that PEBA is more chemically resistant than PLA or ABS. I've actually found PLA to be quite chemical resistant, or at least to gas and oils, acetone, IPA, and a few others. But that got me thinking that it would be cool if you did a series of videos on the chemical resistance of each filament to show what they like and don't like, so people can make a better choice when chemicals are going to be part of the environment.
Have you heard of SBS? It prints super easy and works well for aesthetics as well.
I use PVB specifically for it's low residue after ignition. This means that I don't use PVB filaments with colorants, as those increase residue. The fact that it can be vapor smoothed with not only isopropyl alcohol, but also ethyl alcohol, it can be smoothed much more safely and this lends to fewer layer lines in final parts which is necessary for my uses.
If you are going to do the shoe video, could you please explain how supports should be set so it prints nicely but not impossible to remove?
Have you tried PBT one?
do you have anything on tritan?
No but stay tuned for something very similar soon.
Definitely interested in the shoes. Live out in the desert and would love to wear barefoot shoes that stand up to cacti 🌵 😂
Should talk about texture more. I believe that pp has some of the lowest friction coefficients of plastics.
Great vid, thanks. Have you had any experience with OBC Polyethylene? When I saw the title for this video I so hoped it would be part of it. 🙈
Haven’t even heard of it. Who makes some? Maybe I’ll do another video.
@@thenextlayer Add:North. I came across a roll recently and tried to print with it but failed. To my defence…. It was with a horrible printer (klp-1)
SBS is also certified food safe. Fil-X in South Africa manufacturers SBS filament.
Haven’t heard of it? Maybe I need to do a fourth video
5:56 in the gasket world 260c is pretty tame, wouldn't call it extreme.
'Yay' for the shoe experiment.
@thenextlayer please try not to fall for manufacturer's marketing BS.
1) CPE is the same non-term as "PLA+". It means nothing. At most it just means "blend". Commonly CPE is PETG+something, but like with PLA+, it could be simply as good (or bad) as any other ordinary PETG, but calling it "CPE" gives it more credibility. What matters is the datasheet (assuming it doesn't lie).
2) NonOilen is PHB (=PHA?), so nothing special. For example Colorfabb PLA-HP is the same thing. But I get it, calling it NonOilen sounds cool and I keep it in stock for various prints because that marketing made me buy it over other PHA/PHB filaments in the past. Also I wonder why it didn't stick to the bed for you, I have trouble getting it of and need to use glue stick as a separation layer. It ruined part of my black Textured PEI sheet from Bambu as I had to literally scrape it off...
3) Food safe filaments are plentiful. Again - making it sound important is mostly marketing BS. If you really care about food safety then you need to make the "product" food safe, and that's not (just) about using food safe materials. I would guess that most filaments out there coming from better manufacturers are food safe, but it really means very little. Btw PP shoud be more food safe in practice as it should be less porous and more likely to produce watertight parts etc.
4) Polypropylene is actually not that bad when it comes to printing. It doesn't warp, so as long as the first layer sticks and isn't too narrow then you are fine. Magigoo PP works great of course. If you want a challenging filament, try Fillamentum Flexfill TPE 90A (Sky Blue is what I have). It sticks to nothing and warps like crazy.
Full disclosure - I actually like Fillamentum CPE HG100 a lot , but please don't talk about CPE in general as if it meant something. And I also like NonOilen, though it's just too expensive, probably because of marketing costs :P I also have my doubts about biodegradability... If manufacturers truly cared about the environment they would buy (or at least take) back filament and failed prints from public to recycle.
personally i sadly haven't had the chance of trying any of these filaments so far... i absolutely will in the future especially after now knowing how insane those filaments are...
Love the NonOilen as well, currently i am mainly printing with PLA (+) because it is based on corn and therefore renewable and not from oil... sadly it misses the ability to just be thrown on any compost, which would be useful for some prints...
"Food safe" in my opinion is useful for one time use (compostable feature for throwaway comes in handy) because the material itself can be food safe, but as long we don't have a solution to smooth them, bacteria will grow in the layer lines which doesn't make it safe any more.
About the soft filaments i am having issues with the CW2 on my stealthburner of my Voron 2.4 and can print it at a max of 4mm³/s at maximum tension ... i have a slight idea what could fix it or else i am searching for solutions (mainly extruders) to print soft filament faster because on the other hand i am working on a fast Voron 2.4.
what was your maximum flow and therefore resulting speeds with TPU, chincilla and PEBA ?
thank you very much for your informative and educating content, appreciate it
and sorry for the long comment, couldnt make shorter... i know you have hundreds of comments to read if you read every single one 😅
I think I was able to print at 8mm/s!
@@thenextlayer I see a unit mismatch. 3DPrinterWolf was describing his flow as a volumetric flow (cubic mm per second). You are describing a linear flow (mm per second). Is one a typo, or are you guys talking apples and oranges?
My filament strategy is avoiding costs. So I store alays only 2 basic colord (black & white) and I use 95% PETG the rest being PLA (only because it is slighly cheaper).
Initially I wanted to use translucent material for everything which is color in while printing with a marker on a holder, but I honestly didn´t feel like it and just stored 2 colors. I can color in the white with all sorts of paint if I want to, everything else is a waste of space and money.
I used to work in the Injection molding industry, and we used some CC. It was PBC, For dental parts. AND IT SUCKED. Every new batch we got in was a different blend, So we had to redo the process every time. Sometimes it would very in a batch. Even the color wasn't consistent.
Or was that PBT, I cant remember.