I tried the recommended service manual "sealant" (aviation style sealant) and had water in my ujoint bellows too! So I used permtex copper silicone sealant and it worked perfectly. Allignment can be tough. Some times mine just clicks right in, sometimes not. After I check the alignment, I think it is about the angle of shaft. Doesn't have to be off much to create a wrestling match. Used the silicon on the rubber bellows too! As a backyard shade tree mechanic for the last 45 years, I have found that while the service manuals are a big help, they are not always correct. Got to use your brain to figure out best path to follow.
do not drive a screw driver to split the drive. I made a stand to set drives on all you have to do is lift the drive and shake it up and down a few times it will separate. with a stand it is easy to slide the outdrive back on. use the jack tongue to raise or lower the back of the boat. lmao
Thank You Emma. I'm so sorry for your loss. Your Dad just helped me a LOT! I am grateful. I lost my little brother 5 years ago and he was my boat expert so I can't learn from him any more. I'm glad I found this video so I won't ruin my motor or stern drive. I can't reach him but he spoke to me today. :)
I have my 30ft bayliner out of the water being charged by the day. I really appreciate that you shared your experience and knowledge on here for me to learn from. I'm getting a slight vibration and knock from the outdrive, im suspecting badly worn gimbal bearing. The person next to me, with mercruiser outdrives, told me to fill from the bottom. I know now not to. thank you
hey man great video !!!! i just bought my first boat and it is a huge learning experience! i have the cobra out drive with a fried water pump from running it in low water at the dock
Things I just learned by doing this: 1: I took it off, replaced the gimbal bearing. 2: outdrive drive shaft would NOT go back into engine 3: you need an engine alignment bar/tool to align engine 4: it was really hard to align the engine. I ended up using an engine hoist to lift the front of the motor up and down while using the alignment bar tool to get the correct front engine mount adjustment. 5: it goes off and on way easier than this video shows now. 6: I put the boat in forward gear, then wiggle the prop a little to align the splines. 7: yes using a screwdriver to align the splines will increase your odds of messing up the gasket (like i did) 8: buy an engine alignment tool on eBay BEFOREHAND taking off your outdrive!!!!
Hi Jeremy. Thanks for your video. I enjoyed it and will suscribe to your channel. I've pulled the upper plug and whatever was behind it dropped into the case. Now I've got to pull the outdrive. But with your video, it will be easy. Thanks again. BR
It's a good video and very helpful but these outdrives sometimes are very hard to get off if they have corrosion inside bolt shafts. Never use a screwdriver like that on the outdrive those sides where he's putting that are very thin. The aluminum compresses very easily or could chip. If you do have any pitting or uneven surface JB Weld works great on it and then you can flatten it out with sand paper on something very flat sliding it on surface. Wiggle / shake the outdrive shake it up and down left and right and try to create a little space Use the flattest putty knives you can find and then put another flat tool in-between them. You need to take it off evenly from both sides so you need to open other side as you get it moving out. Whenever I put my marine parts together I use silicone caulk on the shaft of all bolts & some type of thread lubricant. ( It fill the space so water cant and it doesn't have any strength when you try to turn the bolt later )
lil trick i do. loosen outdrive bolts. just flush with stud treads with the bolt tip. then go hit the trim. boom. loose. then lower trim just a hair release tension. and outdrive is ready to remove :) dont lift trim much at all. dont wanna bend studs. but i never have. works on merc and omc for me. most time. it never rips the gasket too LOL :)
So on the mercs...you have to put the shift id forward before removing the outdrive so everything lines up , You don't on a omc because the outdrive connection for the fwr/rvrse/nutrl is always aligned and moves up and down...on the merc its only aligned in forward and that moves from side to side.
Since this was a new outdrive that I put on my boat I had to take the outdrive back off to do a shift cable alignment adjustment. If you do not have the tools or do not know exactly how to do a shift cable alignment adjustment then I recommend taking it to someone who does know how or you could severely damaged the lower part of your outdrive. In most cases if its the same outdrive you're putting back on that you took off you will not have to do a shift cable alignment adjustment.
also next time. lower the tongue of the boat down so you get the outdrive up off ground more. makes install lot easier once get the trick. and always put in forward gear. so you know when put back together. be in forward gear. just helpful hint :) helps to turn the prop when shoving the shaft in
I see the post below suggests use of an alignment bar. If you used your trick of putting it in gear does this eliminate the need for the bar, or does the bar serve some other purpose? Does something else need to be aligned? I'll be pulling the out drive on mine so I can do the infamous 'transom shift cable adjustment' and I'm fishing for as much info before hand as possible.
2004 Crownline, just started with heavy vibration above 1200 RPM, sounds like the ujoints or Gimble, a tiny bit of water is also leaking in somewhere under the rear of the engine. Not sure if Gimble or Ujoints or both??
It sounds like your shift cable needs to be adjusted. It is the cable that goes from your out drive to your engine compartment. You may be able to adjust it from the inside of the engine compartment but it is very tedious as one half turn on the threads could make the difference. You will know its going into forward if when the boat is not running you put it in forward and the prop locks the same when you put it in reverse and should spin in neutral.
I'm not sure what the knocking noise could be it sounds like maybe something is just rattling do to vibration or possibly coming from inside your engine compartment and only sounds like it's from your outdrive. It doesnt sound like it has anything to do with your gimble bearing. You can check your gimble bearing after you have your outdrive off put your hand inside of the bearing and it should turn very smoothly with no play. If it does turn smooth with no play then your bearing is good.
What will happen if I did fill Dom the bottom to the middle plug then filled the rest to the top I took it out an I feel like from a video I watched my gimble bearings is humming
Thanks man i just did my 1988 0mc .The fluid was black.My problem is i get this jerky feeling when I'm in forward in the water but Rev works fine. Now the boat just goes in rev. Foward is like being in neutral. What do you think it is?
This is great. But I never saw you install the bellows or water hose????? Does your boat not need them???? That is the reason I watched your video, so I could see the bellows installation procedure........
I know you changed the oil but what was the reason for removing the drive? just curious did you also have something else to do to it? Im watching this video because I am going to change my Gimble bearing once I get the alignment tool. my outdrive makes a noise like some one knocking on the case with the back of a screwdriver real fast (not loud). don't matter it is in gear or not. I have yet to find anyone that can tell me what it is without going to a mechanic. I hope to find it and fix myself
Cool video . but i was wondering in the shop manual it says it requires a engine alignment tool yet you installed it without using one. So why did you not need one? Thanks
billy bo only if u change ur gimble berring.and the inner on berring rotates thats where u need an alignment tool. to make sure that the rotating in berring is streight
Please, do not use a screwdriver to take apart the unit, because you can permanently damage the case and have a water leak. Put the out drive all the way down, and raise the front of the boat until the out drive is in contact with a wood support. **Follow this video with the exception of removing the cylinder lift bolts and don't use a screw driver on the casting** When all the bolts are out, go on board and slowly raise the out drive. The cylinders will not lift, but separate and remove the out drive for you. Good Luck! C'
If this does not work then you should have an OMC mechanic take your out drive off and do a cable adjustment for you. This should not cost much only about a 2 hour job And a $5 gasket. My advice to you is to make sure you let the mechanic no it is only a two and a half hour job and a $5 gasket. If your shift cable is not adjusted correctly you will ruin the lower part of your outdrive.
You will know that you have to do a shift cable alignment if your boat will go into reverse and not forward or forward and not reverse. If you do have to do the shift cable alignment and have a mechanic do it it should not cost any more than 180 to 200 dollars.
I tried the recommended service manual "sealant" (aviation style sealant) and had water in my ujoint bellows too! So I used permtex copper silicone sealant and it worked perfectly. Allignment can be tough. Some times mine just clicks right in, sometimes not. After I check the alignment, I think it is about the angle of shaft. Doesn't have to be off much to create a wrestling match. Used the silicon on the rubber bellows too! As a backyard shade tree mechanic for the last 45 years, I have found that while the service manuals are a big help, they are not always correct. Got to use your brain to figure out best path to follow.
Man thanks for the time teaching us I just got a 88 bayliner 21" cierra an I have to replace my lower unit.
do not drive a screw driver to split the drive. I made a stand to set drives on all you have to do is lift the drive and shake it up and down a few times it will separate.
with a stand it is easy to slide the outdrive back on. use the jack tongue to raise or lower the back of the boat. lmao
Don't do that with a screwdriver dummy
Thank You Emma. I'm so sorry for your loss. Your Dad just helped me a LOT! I am grateful. I lost my little brother 5 years ago and he was my boat expert so I can't learn from him any more. I'm glad I found this video so I won't ruin my motor or stern drive.
I can't reach him but he spoke to me today. :)
I have my 30ft bayliner out of the water being charged by the day. I really appreciate that you shared your experience and knowledge on here for me to learn from. I'm getting a slight vibration and knock from the outdrive, im suspecting badly worn gimbal bearing. The person next to me, with mercruiser outdrives, told me to fill from the bottom. I know now not to. thank you
I have a 225 sundowner doing the same thing was it your bearing
The main purpose for me making this video was to help prevent someone from ruining their out drive by changing the lower unit oil wrong.
I did just kill me
Good show. No b.s. I have an OMC and with service it now. Thanks.
Extremely helpful! Thanks!
hey man great video !!!! i just bought my first boat and it is a huge learning experience! i have the cobra out drive with a fried water pump from running it in low water at the dock
Things I just learned by doing this:
1: I took it off, replaced the gimbal bearing.
2: outdrive drive shaft would NOT go back into engine
3: you need an engine alignment bar/tool to align engine
4: it was really hard to align the engine. I ended up using an engine hoist to lift the front of the motor up and down while using the alignment bar tool to get the correct front engine mount adjustment.
5: it goes off and on way easier than this video shows now.
6: I put the boat in forward gear, then wiggle the prop a little to align the splines.
7: yes using a screwdriver to align the splines will increase your odds of messing up the gasket (like i did)
8: buy an engine alignment tool on eBay BEFOREHAND taking off your outdrive!!!!
Thanks man that was very helpful.
Thank you very much !! I will do it tomorow for the first time... thx !!!
Hi Jeremy. Thanks for your video. I enjoyed it and will suscribe to your channel.
I've pulled the upper plug and whatever was behind it dropped into the case. Now I've got to pull the outdrive. But with your video, it will be easy. Thanks again. BR
L
It's a good video and very helpful but these outdrives sometimes are
very hard to get off if they have corrosion inside bolt shafts.
Never use a screwdriver like that on the outdrive those sides where he's putting that are very thin. The aluminum compresses very easily or could chip. If you do have any pitting or uneven surface JB Weld works great on it and then you can flatten it out with sand paper on something very flat sliding it on surface.
Wiggle / shake the outdrive shake it up and down left and right and try to create a little space
Use the flattest putty knives you can find and then put another flat tool in-between them. You need to take it off evenly from both sides so you need to open other side as you get it moving out.
Whenever I put my marine parts together I use silicone caulk on the shaft of all bolts & some type of thread lubricant. ( It fill the space so water cant and it doesn't have any strength when you try to turn the bolt later )
It looks sooo easy - it always does LOOK that way - thanks for sharing
lil trick i do. loosen outdrive bolts. just flush with stud treads with the bolt tip. then go hit the trim. boom. loose.
then lower trim just a hair release tension. and outdrive is ready to remove :) dont lift trim much at all. dont wanna bend studs. but i never have. works on merc and omc for me. most time. it never rips the gasket too LOL :)
Good info. 👍Thx for this
So on the mercs...you have to put the shift id forward before removing the outdrive so everything lines up , You don't on a omc because the outdrive connection for the fwr/rvrse/nutrl is always aligned and moves up and down...on the merc its only aligned in forward and that moves from side to side.
Since this was a new outdrive that I put on my boat I had to take the outdrive back off to do a shift cable alignment adjustment. If you do not have the tools or do not know exactly how to do a shift cable alignment adjustment then I recommend taking it to someone who does know how or you could severely damaged the lower part of your outdrive. In most cases if its the same outdrive you're putting back on that you took off you will not have to do a shift cable alignment adjustment.
also next time. lower the tongue of the boat down so you get the outdrive up off ground more. makes install lot easier once get the trick. and always put in forward gear. so you know when put back together. be in forward gear. just helpful hint :)
helps to turn the prop when shoving the shaft in
I see the post below suggests use of an alignment bar. If you used your trick of putting it in gear does this eliminate the need for the bar, or does the bar serve some other purpose? Does something else need to be aligned?
I'll be pulling the out drive on mine so I can do the infamous 'transom shift cable adjustment' and I'm fishing for as much info before hand as possible.
ive only needed alignment bar when its a fresh engine install and things arent lined up perfect.
Thanks!
Ok, what I need to know is what did u do when u shut the camera off to get the joint through the bellow opening.
2004 Crownline, just started with heavy vibration above 1200 RPM, sounds like the ujoints or Gimble, a tiny bit of water is also leaking in somewhere under the rear of the engine. Not sure if Gimble or Ujoints or both??
I changed my lowerer unit oil on my 1991 Chris Craft as well, the wrong way.
I am stocked in of taking out these two hydraulic pistons.. working with volvo penta.. any ideas?
It sounds like your shift cable needs to be adjusted. It is the cable that goes from your out drive to your engine compartment. You may be able to adjust it from the inside of the engine compartment but it is very tedious as one half turn on the threads could make the difference. You will know its going into forward if when the boat is not running you put it in forward and the prop locks the same when you put it in reverse and should spin in neutral.
i have an omc out drive on a 3ltr merccruse and have water comeing in around the shift cable any idea on how to fix this problum thanks bruce
I'm not sure what the knocking noise could be it sounds like maybe something is just rattling do to vibration or possibly coming from inside your engine compartment and only sounds like it's from your outdrive. It doesnt sound like it has anything to do with your gimble bearing. You can check your gimble bearing after you have your outdrive off put your hand inside of the bearing and it should turn very smoothly with no play. If it does turn smooth with no play then your bearing is good.
how do you change a a seal on the outdrive?
What will happen if I did fill Dom the bottom to the middle plug then filled the rest to the top
I took it out an I feel like from a video I watched my gimble bearings is humming
Thanks man i just did my 1988 0mc .The fluid was black.My problem is i get this jerky feeling when I'm in forward in the water but Rev works fine. Now the boat just goes in rev. Foward is like being in neutral. What do you think it is?
Never use a screw driver to pry it open that's how you ruin the mating surface
have you done the shift cable
Now you've seen how not to remove your drive
What about the o-rings you mention in the gasket kit?
swtnlnly the three round rings go on drive shaft and sit in gimble berring
Thanks
This is great. But I never saw you install the bellows or water hose?????
Does your boat not need them????
That is the reason I watched your video, so I could see the bellows installation procedure........
Yeah i ruined my outdrive last fall because of not having gear oil in the upper had it in the lower but didnt know of the upper. Do now though
I know you changed the oil but what was the reason for removing the drive? just curious did you also have something else to do to it? Im watching this video because I am going to change my Gimble bearing once I get the alignment tool. my outdrive makes a noise like some one knocking on the case with the back of a screwdriver real fast (not loud). don't matter it is in gear or not. I have yet to find anyone that can tell me what it is without going to a mechanic. I hope to find it and fix myself
WATCH OTHER VIDEO ON WHAT SCREW TO NEVER REMOVE ON A SX COBRA OUTDRIVE!
How to change spider gear in OMC king cobra
You way is bullshit! Thanks for fucking up my boat -
Hook ramback up raise lower unit up little bit put piece wood between transom n unit lower it with switch come right off easy peasy
Backyard mechanic way.
Did you get it fixed? What was it?
This is EXACTLY WHAT NOT TO DO..... JESUS!
Cool video . but i was wondering in the shop manual it says it requires a engine alignment tool yet you installed it without using one. So why did you not need one?
Thanks
billy bo only if u change ur gimble berring.and the inner on berring rotates thats where u need an alignment tool. to make sure that the rotating in berring is streight
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Please, do not use a screwdriver to take apart the unit, because you can permanently damage the case and have a water leak. Put the out drive all the way down, and raise the front of the boat until the out drive is in contact with a wood support. **Follow this video with the exception of removing the cylinder lift bolts and don't use a screw driver on the casting** When all the bolts are out, go on board and slowly raise the out drive. The cylinders will not lift, but separate and remove the out drive for you.
Good Luck!
C'
hey where do you live could you help me with my omc cobra oitdrive and I have the upper gears that burnt out and need to change.
Keli Weatherly did you fix it yet? I just got done rebuilding mine today. Just having a problem getting driveshaft to slide in.
Y’all should stop commenting because he’ll never see it. He’s was my dad and he died years ago. Soooo good luck reaching him 😂😢
Sorry 😞 . Very sad
Sorry for your loss 😔
I hope u are doing well
Live near Midland NC I work on them. You need work done contact me we are reasonably priced. No body else around here works on them anymore.
Do I need to drain the oil if I want to remove my outdrive just to check the alignment?
No
Never never use a screw driver to break the to apart your out drive
If this does not work then you should have an OMC mechanic take your out drive off and do a cable adjustment for you. This should not cost much only about a 2 hour job And a $5 gasket. My advice to you is to make sure you let the mechanic no it is only a two and a half hour job and a $5 gasket. If your shift cable is not adjusted correctly you will ruin the lower part of your outdrive.
Not recommended to put any type of gasket sealer etc or you’ll be there scrap n sanding the old gasket off next time.
You will know that you have to do a shift cable alignment if your boat will go into reverse and not forward or forward and not reverse. If you do have to do the shift cable alignment and have a mechanic do it it should not cost any more than 180 to 200 dollars.
Jolly Llama
Nothing like a shade tree that has no idea what he's doing posting videos on CZcams
glastornjet73 i want him to work on my boat not!!!!!!!!! is kinda funny but truly sad that he posts stupidity
These look like a huge pain in the balls