I am 74 years old and I have refinished countless military rifle stocks. My favorite method to get the oil out of the stock is to place a towel on the dashboard of a vehicle, park the vehicle in the sun, then place the stock on the towel. The oil will ooze out and you turn it over every 1/2 hour. When it slows down, I wash it in hot water with Simple Green. The grain will rise and you can steam dents out with a wet washcloth and a steam iron. I use fine steel wool to level the wood and apply BLO. Normally I do 3 coats and wipe down the stock. after each coat I have used Tung oil, but I prefer BLO on American walnut stocks.
An aluminum turkey pan, chip brush, and acetone. I have removed the oil from several old gunstocks that way. You do need to refinish with boiled linseed afterwards, but it retains any character/history/scars you want to leave.
I'm doing a 303 1886 myself. It got soaked by the oil and rain coming through and getting in the wood aswell. Had a house fire so I just bout purma blue, degreaser and rusty walnut mix
Oven cleaner will draw the oils out of the wood with no fuss. It will really dry out the wood where boiled linseed oil will have to be applied so the wood will be healthy again.
I have used TSP, a household degreaser, successfully. You must wear gloves, rubber ,plastic or nitrile, or you skin will dry and crack. Painful. It takes me several tries as I do not use it full strength. Sometimes I find beautiful wood on old militaries.
I am finishing up work on a type c army hunter rifle that you sent me some dimensions on some time ago. Anxious to get it finished. It won't be an exact duplicate, but fairly close.
@@tristaneuritt9556 I'll try to do that somehow. I don't have a channel but perhaps we can exchange emails without posting them to the world and get some pics your way. I may look into creating a channel, it may not be as invasive as I think.
For removing the oil yes. I'd say so. This has been on the blackburner for me for some time but I plan to get back to it... Know that any checkering or rough finished wood (i.e. inletting) will collect the whiting and its hard to remove as the fine particules get trapped in course wood surfaces. I haven't spent a great deal of time solving that problem yet though. Something to be aware of. Also when I heated the stock to raise the oil to the surface of the wood, it came to my mind to let the stock cool just a bit as I didn't want the temperature difference shock of the cold whitting solution cracking the hot wood.
I personally don't like to use water on a wood stock in a restoration process. It depends on how much you use, but the more you use the more there is the potential you warp a stock or expand the wood or create a raised grain requiring "whiskering". The chip out in the stock in this video is the result of decades of gun oil collecting in the wrist of the stock and the wood expanding where upon the the shallow inletting at the wrist became a recoil surface with the rear tang of the receiver creating the eventual chip out of the wood. If you soak a stock in water there's the potential of it drying, warping and creating similar undesired recoil bedding points. I'm aware of people putting stocks in dishwashers to remove oil, I personally don't think this is a good idea and IMHO probably the worst water method. I think the problems with wooden m14 stocks in humid/wet Vietnam service are good evidence of why using water on a stock is better avoided. Obviously different methods work for different folks, and I'm not trying to say your wrong but rather give you my humble thoughts on water on a stock.
To add to my previous response, I think if you want to steam out a dent that's a fine use of water on a wood gun stock, though that's a very local not global problem and typically isn't in an area involved with bedding and its to be expected to "whisker" the wood, etc. after doing so.
I am 74 years old and I have refinished countless military rifle stocks. My favorite method to get the oil out of the stock is to place a towel on the dashboard of a vehicle, park the vehicle in the sun, then place the stock on the towel. The oil will ooze out and you turn it over every 1/2 hour. When it slows down, I wash it in hot water with Simple Green. The grain will rise and you can steam dents out with a wet washcloth and a steam iron. I use fine steel wool to level the wood and apply BLO. Normally I do 3 coats and wipe down the stock. after each coat I have used Tung oil, but I prefer BLO on American walnut stocks.
An aluminum turkey pan, chip brush, and acetone. I have removed the oil from several old gunstocks that way. You do need to refinish with boiled linseed afterwards, but it retains any character/history/scars you want to leave.
Looking forward to watching your progress, Tristan. Good luck to you :-)
K2R works good at removing oil from wood. Learned about it from R/C airplanes oil soaked balsa wood.
I'm doing a 303 1886 myself. It got soaked by the oil and rain coming through and getting in the wood aswell. Had a house fire so I just bout purma blue, degreaser and rusty walnut mix
Oven cleaner will draw the oils out of the wood with no fuss. It will really dry out the wood where boiled linseed oil will have to be applied so the wood will be healthy again.
I have used TSP, a household degreaser, successfully. You must wear gloves, rubber ,plastic or nitrile, or you skin will dry and crack. Painful. It takes me several tries as I do not use it full strength. Sometimes I find beautiful wood on old militaries.
@Tristan Euritt. Look forward to seeing the results. Is that your model B sporter?
Yes it is. I found during shooting when the gun gets hot the oil starts leaking out so I decided to fix it.
I am finishing up work on a type c army hunter rifle that you sent me some dimensions on some time ago. Anxious to get it finished. It won't be an exact duplicate, but fairly close.
@@timsaxer6442 you ought to post a video of your progress, id love to see it. I'm sure others working on similar projects would as well.
@@tristaneuritt9556 I'll try to do that somehow. I don't have a channel but perhaps we can exchange emails without posting them to the world and get some pics your way. I may look into creating a channel, it may not be as invasive as I think.
@@timsaxer6442 tristaneuritt@gmail.com
Just picked up some whiting for my trapdoor. The whiting arrived today, does it work well?
For removing the oil yes. I'd say so. This has been on the blackburner for me for some time but I plan to get back to it... Know that any checkering or rough finished wood (i.e. inletting) will collect the whiting and its hard to remove as the fine particules get trapped in course wood surfaces. I haven't spent a great deal of time solving that problem yet though. Something to be aware of. Also when I heated the stock to raise the oil to the surface of the wood, it came to my mind to let the stock cool just a bit as I didn't want the temperature difference shock of the cold whitting solution cracking the hot wood.
I should mention too that some of the original finish was removed but not all of it
Mineral oil works great.
So its plain ole Baking soda and degreaser cool.
Baking soda is sodium bicarbonate. He’s using calcium carbonate, which is basically an antacid.
Baking soda is sodium bicarbonate
Washing soda is sodium carbonate
Chalkboard chalk is calcium carbonate
Soylent green is people
Easy Off oven cleaner then copious amounts of water.
I personally don't like to use water on a wood stock in a restoration process. It depends on how much you use, but the more you use the more there is the potential you warp a stock or expand the wood or create a raised grain requiring "whiskering". The chip out in the stock in this video is the result of decades of gun oil collecting in the wrist of the stock and the wood expanding where upon the the shallow inletting at the wrist became a recoil surface with the rear tang of the receiver creating the eventual chip out of the wood. If you soak a stock in water there's the potential of it drying, warping and creating similar undesired recoil bedding points. I'm aware of people putting stocks in dishwashers to remove oil, I personally don't think this is a good idea and IMHO probably the worst water method. I think the problems with wooden m14 stocks in humid/wet Vietnam service are good evidence of why using water on a stock is better avoided. Obviously different methods work for different folks, and I'm not trying to say your wrong but rather give you my humble thoughts on water on a stock.
To add to my previous response, I think if you want to steam out a dent that's a fine use of water on a wood gun stock, though that's a very local not global problem and typically isn't in an area involved with bedding and its to be expected to "whisker" the wood, etc. after doing so.
@@tristaneuritt9556 The only reason I mentioned copious amounts of water is to make sure the lye is gone. Let it dry, then several coats of BLO.