Shock Bands, Shock Length, and Tire Mods - TRX4 High Trail Tuning Discussion
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- čas přidán 18. 03. 2023
- Bench review of recent modifications to my Traxxas High Trail K10 truck, tires - foams and mods/cuts, shock length, articulation, spring rates, and shock bands setup.
Long arm lift kit functions as a long travel setup with some work and tuning.
Run test on the woodpile with this setup:
• Woodpile vs TRX4 High ... - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Very good video I’m new to your channel
good information
Thank you
Very informative. Definitely gotta come back when I'm getting new shocks!
Thanks! I've seen that Silver truck of yours jumping and having fun... Great Videos! This is such a fun hobby!
Awesome thank you! I wish I had started sooner! I love it!
Body lift !! Great idea, I build TJs, crawlers and shy away from body lifts (anything over 1.25” anyway) but that is an awesome idea.
Thanks! It worked, minimized the trimming
Don’t insult Tennessee like that! 🤣 I’ve only heard of it as the Carolina squat and I’m closer to Tennessee than the Carolina’s.
Great video! I just got a trx4 and am still learning, What is the part called that has the brake caliper and brake rotor called? Also do you have a link to the front and rear set you are using, or just the name of them! Thanks in advance
Thanks! And sure, I can share what they are. But since you mentioned you just got the truck, are you looking to add weight (brass) for functional reasons, or do you just want the look of the disc brake & rotor? Samix is one manufacturer that makes decent quality brass & aluminum upgrades, Treal is another. I have a brake rotor set from each of them, Samix in the front, Treal in the back. I was buying for functional reasons, looking at the weights of the other parts to dial in an axle weight. I ended up with heavy weight portal covers in front and lighter weight in the back. If you’re buying brass for the first time, it gets pricey quickly. Do your research and consider your longer term build goals. There are complete kits available that offer savings over buying separately.
www.rcsamix.com/index.php/forrccar/traxxas/trx-4/trx4-4413c2h-trx-4-brass-portal-knuckle-heavy-cover-scale-big-brake-rotor-caliper-combo-set.html
trealhobby.com/products/treal-trx-4-brass-outer-portal-covers-42g2pcs-black-with-brake-motor-set
I'm thinking of getting desert lizard for the high trail due to customization of the droop. Based on your comments, for rear shocks would the 120mm versions mounted in the front hole be the best for this? Sounds like the 110mm version would be the right choice for the front shocks.
Yes, for uncompressed length those numbers sound good. But you’ll need to consider the compressed length also. I don’t have a set of Lizards to measure, but I looked them up. Assuming both the 110s and 120s are similar travel to the stock GTS shocks at 35mm travel once you get the springs setup for droop, you’ll have to keep an eye on how much tire interference you have. And in the front, with the pan hard/diff interference you’ll be hard pressed to use even that much travel. I lengthened my upper link to improve driveshaft angle, and removed LOTS of plastic with a Dremel on the diff and I ended up with about 30mm of useable shock travel in the front. I had to put limiters in to keep it from bottoming and binding. It’s a 3 way battle between link end pivots, panhard, and driveshaft universal. I like to set up the shocks so they carry the load. Flipping springs around on the lizards may change the full compressed & uncompressed lengths a few mm. I’d def start with the ones you are looking at. 110s up front, 120s in the back.
Great video. Does anyone ever talk about how far off the wheels are to the wheel arches?
I just got one of these and the ratio is way off. The front wheels are way too forward and the rears are way too back wards.
No wonder the wheels catch on the arches when crawling.
Someone please agree with me something is off here?
I’ve always thought the front axle sets too far rearward. The links are adjustable, so you can move either axle forward or back a few mm to suite your eye. But I think the real issue with the front is the portal box king pin position is really inwards so far that it makes the tires look either way forward or way rearward whenever you’re steering (a lot of scrub). Also very few 1:1 trucks have anything approaching the level of articulation we take for granted in hobby. That exacerbates the axle position issue. I wonder if anybody has done a leaf spring conversion on a TRX4. I’m sure somebody has! That would look sweet but have to trade a ton of flex for it.
Do you have a link for the rod ends you bought?
AMain has them. Frixion Rekoil +5mm
www.amainhobbies.com/frixion-rc-rekoil-shock-5mm-bottom-rod-ends-8-frxbr50/p1280208
cut your nails dude!