Timing Chain Replacement Chrysler 2.7 FAILED TENSIONER - STOP BLOCK INSTALL
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- čas přidán 12. 09. 2024
- Seen in this video a 2007 Chrysler Sebring 2.7
timing chain rattles on startup due to a loose timing chain caused by failed primary chain tensioner.
I like what you repaired but with reservations . I did not see a change in two smaller chains and tensioners . Water pump change is always a very good idea . I would not use OE water pump but got no problems using an OE oil pump . Melling tensioner saver great insurance policy . It is not necessary at all to replace the oil pump but I would check the oil pick up screen ( which I didn't do ) . All chains , belts and hoses and water pump changed very good results clear all codes fire it up .No rattles at all . Will do compression check next time on all cylinders . Your crank test was a very good idea job well done . 😊
CZcams suggested this video to me because I've been watching many 2.7L videos lately. My Intrepid with the 2.7 got to 133,000 miles before briefly rattling and dying last week. Because of what you and many others on youtube have taught me about turning wrenches and using tools properly I've decided that this time I will try to rebuild rather than go into debt for the exorbitant price of a car now. I'm actually enjoying the experience. The engine is free of sludge due to my use of high quality synthetic oil for the past decade. There is no evidence of water in the oil. The timing chain is in tension. I've gotten all the pulleys off the front plate today and I'll remove the plate soon to get a look at the chain and pump. The mystery is great. I've got this Melling part in my Amazon cart now. If I do decide that the engine can be saved with rebuilding, I'll add it to my kit.
Great to hear! I’m glad this video was of use for
You! be sure you get the correct stop block. One is for a new chain and one is for
Use on a used timing chain.
@@JesseMarrin One question. I've got the front cover off and have not removed any components of the timing chain. The chain seems to be well in tension. The water pump sprocket is sound, with no wiggling. The old tensioner is visible with much sludge residue as shown in this video. In addition, about 1/3" of shiny silvery metal is visible as the tensioner arm protrudes from the tensioner body. Does that mean anything?
Progress has been slow in the past month. I took the oil pan off to examine the crankshaft bearing caps. They are sound. There was no evidence of metal particles in the oil pick-up tube. I removed the primary tensioner yesterday. The tensioner was extended 3.6 mm beyond the replacement indicator.
2 questions, how did you remove the belt on the power steering pump and how did you remove the power steering pump ?
Awesome Jesse!!! You are the Sebring specialist!!! ❤
Excellent work I have the same issue checking torque on 1999 tensioner . Will do compression test that works out will install Cloye timing set including stop block msb02 , quality water and oil pump and oil pick up tube . Will replace all chains may replace valve springs retainers and rubber seals or may just replace heads call it a day with pumps and chain set .
Wow, seeing this engine brings back some bad memories, lol. I'm the one you helped get through my first rebuild---a 2001 Sebring 2.7 liter. I assume this 2.7 is slightly different. Does this one also have the issue with the water pump?
Oh definitely remember! This 2.7 is quite different in a lot of ways from the intake manifolds and how it bolts on to the oil pan being larger and getting in the way and the power steering belt is a stretch belt and has no adjustment for tension like previous models
They all have the same issues unfortunately.
It wasn't just a Chrysler flaw, Audi has the same problem too. Just replaced the whole timing belt tensioner system on my 2014 Audi A6. Not a cheap job since the entire engine had to come out, ripped apart practically, and put back together again. Luckily it was under an extended warranty and I only had to pay $1,000 or an $11,000 job. BTW, how's the '78 Cordoba doing? Don't see/hear much of that lately.
In coming months that cordoba will see some garage time soon! Stay tuned!
@@JesseMarrin would you be able to do a cold start video of it?
@@PEDALFEVER of the cordoba or the Sebring? lol 😂
@@JesseMarrin Apologies, I should have been more specific. Of the Cordoba.
@@PEDALFEVER I’ll try and make that happen
My 2002 seabring just started making a slight radling noise i took of the front valve cover off but my tenchener is the back and it started raining might need a new one.up grade there parts are poorly designed.lifters and tenchener.wish me luck.
Let me know how it goes!
Didn't see you put in tensioner...or torque it...what one was hoping to see. Outside of that really enjoyed the video.
The honest truth is it is all done by feel I can even get my own eyes in there on the backside to see what I’m doing never mind a camera! Or I would have filmed it.
@@JesseMarrin what tensioner did you use, the prices are wild, from $20-100 what would you recommend, can
you provide the part number?
@@WDIO-RADIO the one i used was a melling brand. Not best quality but it was what was available at the time. the spring and ratchet mechanism isn’t very smooth it’s a bit sticky when resetting. Honestly the genuine Chrysler ones are Best but costly. at the end of the day they all suck lol 😂
Wow, you have a two-post lift! How many Sebrings is this for you now?
Honestly I’ve lost count how many I’ve done!!!! And yes see my other hoist video I made! It was time I got a real one!
Quick question i just changed all of this on a 2007 2.7 charger. it idles good but when driving takes for ever to speed up and makes a ticking noise that loud after about a mile or to oil light pops on and now im getting these codes P0522 engine oil pressure circut low and P0344 camshaft postion sensor intermediate. any help would be awsome
Good video I got 2004 sebring convertible limited same color btw ..is there any tell tale signs of timing or pump going bad ? I got 90 k on it always garage kept .anyway good job how much would you of charged same job ?
Shop parts and labour I’d expect a bill of around $1500
Check from drops of coolant below where vehicle is parked or signs of coolant level dropping. 90k you are approaching the service interval of the pump. I’ve done one as early as 92,000kms and some I’ve seen last 250k before they fail. my own vehicle i make sure it’s done before 100k
This car featured in the video I just bought and had 160k I got straight to replacing.
By 100k you should have the pump and chain serviced. I have a 2001 with around 60,000 miles. I watch the coolant like a hawk. Check it daily. There's no signs until it just starts leaking, and you'll be lucky if it leaks out of the weep hole. Most of the time it leaks into the oil
Se trocar a bomba da água
E necessário trocar o kit corrente comando.
Ou posso trocar só o tensor da corrente comando?
hello jesse so I watched your video and its very good, but i have a question for you its equal for a sebring 2007 2.7L v6 motor this replacement??
This vehicle in the video was a 2007 Chrysler Sebring 2.7 v6
Hello jesse i have another question so how long time take you to replace the timing chain kit fir this vehicle.
Best regards
Hey nice video quick question I was watching a vid and when installing new cam sprokets with the 3/8 they rotated clockwise then bolted. I have a Haynes Manuel and it say to rotate counter clockwise to line up and bolt them. I was wondering which way did you rotate the cams to line up the sprokets before bolting them in.
Hey. Great question. When setting crankshaft at the timing mark you setup the pistons so valves may NOT CONTACT. the sprockets only line up and bolt up ONE way. You cannot do it wrong or both bolts will not go in. You can turn it either way you need to in order to put it all together. it can get tricky as the cam tends to get jumpy when holding it in the correct place installing the bolts. You will not cause any harm. Good luck!
@@JesseMarrin thank you so much. I watched a video and did it the way the video did, but then my manual finally came in and I was reading through it and it said opposite of what I watched so I just wanted to double check. Thanks again for the help.
OMGGGG I JUST FIGURED OUT WHATS WRONG WITH MY CAR!! It’s on its way to auction!! It got impounded after 2 SHOPS RIPPED ME OFF!! But long story short THATS THE EXACT SAME SOUND MY CAR MAKES!!!
Do you have to have the motor with the number one piston top dead center to start the job thanks
Hey there, when installing the stop block, how were you able to activate/pry on it to extend the tensioner ? Did you insert the tensioner already extended? Thanks
it was a difficult task as there is almost no room for movement. I inserted not armed. I pried on it and it didn’t seem to arm. After the crank test it extended when oil pressure developed.
Thanks Jesse . When installing the stop block, it's going to be in the middle of the guide and the tensioner, and it seems the only way to activate the tensioner(while installed/inserted) is, to wedge a pry bar in the middle to trip the tensioner, don't you think?
Thanks again
@@masi1548 yes traditional way is a small pry bar or usually a nice big flat blade screw driver is usually the ticket. But this case I honestly feel install of the tensioner not armed and allowing oil pressure to develop will arm the tensioner after anyways. all instructions say “engine damage” will occur if tensioner is not armed. but that’s without a stop block. I’ve driven this engine 10,000km since the repair. With no issues rattles etc.
Wow, very Interesting . Because of the block, the tensioner armed itself /extended on its own due to the oil pressure (I wander why).
I'm still going to pry on it , just to be safe .
Thanks again
@@masi1548 and I did the same cause I was quite Leary on it not being armed. good luck!
So the camshaft tensioner is like a lifter but for the timing chain ?
please help me.
Is it possible to just change the tensioner without the need to disassemble the water pump?
they put a water pump and aftermarker tensioner on my 2.7, after a while, it started to make the noise you are talking about when starting it in the mornings, so I would like to know if replacing only the tensioner can solve the problem.
Is it imperative to tune the vehicle first, or can I just remove the aftermarket tensioner and put the new one (mopar)?
thank you very much in advance
this car had the same issue. It is possible to replace just the tensioner. However at min you need to remove top rear valve cover and timing cover to set engine to top dead centre and be able to activate tensioner. No water pump removal is required however with how Involved the job is and how notorious the water pumps are for failing. You will kick yourself when it fails 5,000km down the line.
@@JesseMarrin Hey Jesse, thanks for responding.
another question, to remove the timing cover is it necessary to drain the coolant?
If so, it really is a long job to refill the system with coolant and make sure there is no air left inside, by the way, do you have any video on how to properly fill the coolant system of the 2.7?
cheers!
@@ignacio6117 if you are careful you can get away with it. But when you are removing the engine mount to get the timing cover off you will find it hard to remove without taking top coolant hoses out of the way. I’ve done it though.
@@ignacio6117 refilling system really isn’t a big deal. I can coach you through it
@@JesseMarrin ok, thanks a lot for your support.
Greetings from Chile
I have a 2007 Chrysler 300 was told it was timing belt. I did the work to see if the timing belt snapped and it’s still intact , what could be the problem?
I got at 2008 Chrysler 300 Lux and the left time chain the upper one the smaller one the bottom bolt part brok off the guide so I’m trying to get it off and but the new one on but do I have to go up through the bottom to put is on or ?
How’s the Cordoba coming along?
valves were bent??
Can I do this the same way for a 2008 Chrysler 300 i wish I had some to do it or put it on for me be I’ve ask around where I live and a lot of people say that don’t know so I guess I’ll have to do it myself just like this
You didn't show me how to install the timing chain tensioner at all
I would like to know how you get that Timing chain tensioner block in place I've tried and I can't lineup the holes
That was the funnest part! That took a while. It was definitely a tight fit. I think I removed the primary chain guide and tensioner installed and then put it all back together. Arming the tensioner was nearly impossible after the fact.
I think I will just skip that
@@thomasharrington8199 did you get the correct stop block? One for new chain and one for used
Well the primary tensioner failed so I figured I replaced that and install a stop block old chain
So your not gonna show how to remove the chain
Can you change my water pump? I got a 2.7L 2002
If your in Manitoba sure 👍👍
NEVER turn the engine on by key like that to test everything's correctly lined up! Do this by hand
Turned by hand 2 full rotations and then proceeded to turn over with starter to prime tensioner with oil to ensure chain stays tight
I got a 2008 Chrysler 300 lux and I need to put my timeing guide the top left one the little one on and I might howl to do all this to new water pump and I got that chain not the belt I’ve been looking for a week and a half to see if anyone will ship on CZcams step-by-step to but a timing chain guides on
Really?! Nothing whatsoever about how the tensioner goes in or out of the engine. What tools do we need to remove the tensioner?
Fix my 300 for me I’ll pay u
2008 Chrysler Sebring 2.7L. I have P0340 and P0344. Replaced cam and crank sensors. Car has long crank time, delayed acceleration & jerky deceleration at high speeds (over 70km/h). Is it the timing components, do you think?