When a capacitor goes across the (+) to (-) like the 68uf, it actually shunts the frequencies above, in other words cuts out the higher frequencies. The single coil on the woofer would make the slope roll off at 6db per octave, and by adding the capacitors it doubles the steepness of the slope to 12db per octave. Nedlab capacitors sound good for horns.The inductors like the 0.16mh going across the tweeter terminals (+) to (-) actually do not filter high frequencies but rather filter low frequnecy...same concept as mentioned above but in reverse.
I'll have to point this out to my buddie who like modding on crossover and keep having questions about it. I know the basics, but not the in depth math.
When desoldering I find solder wick cleans the board nicely. Also isopropyl alcohol should be used on the board, cap leads and the solder for a much cleaner connection. As far as speaker health, if the caps are being changed the tweeter should be too.
Ah yeah, I have solder wick, I keep forgetting to use it unless I'm working with SMD parts. Are you suggesting alcohol on the connections BEFORE soldering ? This would be redundant. Yeah these speakers were all over the place, is was the start of a restoration project for the client. They weren't mine. Honestly I wouldn't even want horn loaded for a home system.
Useful info as usual. I am recapping some of the caps on a Gigabyte Sinxp1394 motherboard tomorrow and will also glue the DPVRM daughter board to the motherboard as it feels loose and I think it may have gone some way to destroy the caps which are blown (split at the ends). I have a socket 478 3.06Ghz P4 to run in it, so it should be pretty quick.
The repaired speaker is the replaced one. The other undamaged speaker is the original. I just put up a video with my Heresy II's. Love my vintage klipsch!
The inductor across the squawker is an autotransformer. It’s purpose in this circuit is to attenuate the signal to match its output to the other drivers in the speaker. Auto transformers essentially pass the signal to the driver without altering the frequency or dissipating heat.
Oh, it's not part of the filtering ? Interesting. I'm well familiar with auto transformers, and now that I think of it, I have seem them in speaker attenuators before, like the Marshall Power Break for guitar amps, I think uses that technique.
Well, that's a tricky one. The sonicaps came with a kit the client bought, I don't think it broke the bank. For "These speakers" not sure. I'm not a fussy audiophile, but I do insist on having a decent stereo, and have been an audio tech for many years. The way I look at it, there are a lot of links in the chain. You have your Dac, your amp, and even your original sound source/file to consider, and I think you'd need to be running a pretty high end setup before you'd hear the difference in the caps of a simple xover, at that point, you probably aren't using "these speakers". I've heard big improvements from a DAC upgrade in the past, even using cheaper speakers. If it was me, I'd probably just sound out some generic, but decent quality name brand(ish) caps from digikey or mouser, instead of using boutique caps in "these speakers". I can totally stand behind the concept of replacing old caps. I do it all the time in gear I work on. I did hear a difference when I changed these out. The question, were the old caps still good, and I heard a difference in cap quality, or were the old caps worn, and I heard a difference in fresh caps, on that, your guess is as good as mine.
Couldn't tell you off the top of my head, I don't know that much about crossovers. Mostly just a tech with speakers in to shop for the upgrade. I know in principle how they work, and I could probably roughly design a basic one, but not the terminology.
I've done this with many pairs of klipsch. Each time, I got vastly improved sound than the factory crossover. Electrolytics do not belong in the audio path. Power supply of an amp...ok.
Foil caps do seem more appropriate for this kind of thing. I was surprised bi polar electrolytics even exist thb. Polar Electrolytics are used in audio circuits all the time however, in the low level signal paths, seem to work fine if you use the right grade ones. I admit, I'm not the biggest audiophile tho.
Ah, did I not do some before ? Either way, yeah, it doesn't translate well in a video recording. It'd be really trick to record a speaker in such a way. The concept of a cap change does have some legit science behind it. Especially when it comes to power supplies. Electrolytic caps contain moisture and do dry up over time. Film caps, not so much. They last much longer but there are cases where ones that are very old straight up short out, now mind you, that could be in equipment from the 40s to 60s.
😅😅to upgrade the crossover is to optimize all. A 68uf mkp cross cap jantzen is for 18€. A alternative type 400v for 15€. Air inductors for the tweeter is must have. And change the position under the inductotrs. Allmost 90° under all in Position.👍👍🇩🇪
Yeah I'm aware. In this case the schematic, had polarized caps, but the ones in the kit were non polarized. I imagine a polarized cap could be used in this application, I see them in audio circuits all the time, usually at lower levels, at output levels, I'm not so sure. Is that schematic suppose to be polarized ? I havent' known crossovers to use polarized caps, if that's the case, then the schematic is bad form.
I guess it depends on the formulation and application. I don't trust it personally, but I'm sure they might have solved some older problems with it in newer versions.
I dig the way you speak. Chill and inventive with language. Thank you for the tutorial hombre Cheers from Austin, TX
Hey, your welcome. Thanks.
When a capacitor goes across the (+) to (-) like the 68uf, it actually shunts the frequencies above, in other words cuts out the higher frequencies. The single coil on the woofer would make the slope roll off at 6db per octave, and by adding the capacitors it doubles the steepness of the slope to 12db per octave.
Nedlab capacitors sound good for horns.The inductors like the 0.16mh going across the tweeter terminals (+) to (-) actually do not filter high frequencies but rather filter low frequnecy...same concept as mentioned above but in reverse.
I'll have to point this out to my buddie who like modding on crossover and keep having questions about it.
I know the basics, but not the in depth math.
When desoldering I find solder wick cleans the board nicely. Also isopropyl alcohol should be used on the board, cap leads and the solder for a much cleaner connection. As far as speaker health, if the caps are being changed the tweeter should be too.
Ah yeah, I have solder wick, I keep forgetting to use it unless I'm working with SMD parts.
Are you suggesting alcohol on the connections BEFORE soldering ?
This would be redundant.
Yeah these speakers were all over the place, is was the start of a restoration project for the client. They weren't mine. Honestly I wouldn't even want horn loaded for a home system.
Useful info as usual. I am recapping some of the caps on a Gigabyte Sinxp1394 motherboard tomorrow and will also glue the DPVRM daughter board to the motherboard as it feels loose and I think it may have gone some way to destroy the caps which are blown (split at the ends). I have a socket 478 3.06Ghz P4 to run in it, so it should be pretty quick.
Hah, I have a video coming of me recapping a motherboard. Just a few that were puffy tho. I didn't need to board, it was mostly for the lols.
The repaired speaker is the replaced one. The other undamaged speaker is the original. I just put up a video with my Heresy II's. Love my vintage klipsch!
Ahh, cool.
The inductor across the squawker is an autotransformer. It’s purpose in this circuit is to attenuate the signal to match its output to the other drivers in the speaker. Auto transformers essentially pass the signal to the driver without altering the frequency or dissipating heat.
Oh, it's not part of the filtering ?
Interesting. I'm well familiar with auto transformers, and now that I think of it, I have seem them in speaker attenuators before, like the Marshall Power Break for guitar amps, I think uses that technique.
Do you think the sonicaps are worth the price for these speakers? Or do you think something much cheaper from Dayton would suffice?
Well, that's a tricky one. The sonicaps came with a kit the client bought, I don't think it broke the bank. For "These speakers" not sure. I'm not a fussy audiophile, but I do insist on having a decent stereo, and have been an audio tech for many years. The way I look at it, there are a lot of links in the chain. You have your Dac, your amp, and even your original sound source/file to consider, and I think you'd need to be running a pretty high end setup before you'd hear the difference in the caps of a simple xover, at that point, you probably aren't using "these speakers".
I've heard big improvements from a DAC upgrade in the past, even using cheaper speakers.
If it was me, I'd probably just sound out some generic, but decent quality name brand(ish) caps from digikey or mouser, instead of using boutique caps in "these speakers".
I can totally stand behind the concept of replacing old caps. I do it all the time in gear I work on.
I did hear a difference when I changed these out. The question, were the old caps still good, and I heard a difference in cap quality, or were the old caps worn, and I heard a difference in fresh caps, on that, your guess is as good as mine.
@@DATT thanks for the reply and insights!
Nice video. What is the difference between a third order and a fourth order cross-over, and what is a butter Werth filters
Couldn't tell you off the top of my head, I don't know that much about crossovers. Mostly just a tech with speakers in to shop for the upgrade. I know in principle how they work, and I could probably roughly design a basic one, but not the terminology.
FYI the bottom speaker has the stock woofer. The top one(repaired) is the one that has been changed.
Ah thanks. I think buddy has since replaced both of them.
He was telling me about how people were putting eminence in them.
I've done this with many pairs of klipsch. Each time, I got vastly improved sound than the factory crossover. Electrolytics do not belong in the audio path. Power supply of an amp...ok.
Foil caps do seem more appropriate for this kind of thing. I was surprised bi polar electrolytics even exist thb. Polar Electrolytics are used in audio circuits all the time however, in the low level signal paths, seem to work fine if you use the right grade ones. I admit, I'm not the biggest audiophile tho.
11:17 possible the schematic was right but he wanted to use those non polarized caps?
AH, I doubt it, cause I think those would be the wrong kind of caps. I think he probably just used the wrong symbols.
Too bad we can’t hear before and after. I wonder how many caps get replaced unnecessarily.
Ah, did I not do some before ? Either way, yeah, it doesn't translate well in a video recording. It'd be really trick to record a speaker in such a way.
The concept of a cap change does have some legit science behind it. Especially when it comes to power supplies. Electrolytic caps contain moisture and do dry up over time.
Film caps, not so much. They last much longer but there are cases where ones that are very old straight up short out, now mind you, that could be in equipment from the 40s to 60s.
😅😅to upgrade the crossover is to optimize all. A 68uf mkp cross cap jantzen is for 18€. A alternative type 400v for 15€. Air inductors for the tweeter is must have. And change the position under the inductotrs. Allmost 90° under all in Position.👍👍🇩🇪
Yeah, bud is still tinkering with these units to this day.
A polarized cap will be indicated with a +….. the cap symbol is acceptable. Component markings always mount readable.
Yeah I'm aware. In this case the schematic, had polarized caps, but the ones in the kit were non polarized. I imagine a polarized cap could be used in this application, I see them in audio circuits all the time, usually at lower levels, at output levels, I'm not so sure. Is that schematic suppose to be polarized ?
I havent' known crossovers to use polarized caps, if that's the case, then the schematic is bad form.
Can I hire you to do my Heresy’s ?
I suppose it's possible. I'm in Northern Ontario Canada however. Not sure how close that is.
Why?
RoHS solder is fine for longevity.
I guess it depends on the formulation and application. I don't trust it personally, but I'm sure they might have solved some older problems with it in newer versions.
Polarized caps would filter AC
Yeah, if someone didn't have the kit, but followed that schematic as drawn, they'd and up with a bad circuit.
Maybe that's part of the plan.
@@DATT "Quality you can hear!"
I don't know if you know or not but alcohol will make hot glue fall right off.
No I didn't know that. I'll have to give it a try.
@@DATT I learned that from Mr Carlsons Lab
Ah, not sure I've watched much of him.
take the front speaker out man!
:)
What do you mean ?
You talk too fast
To fast ? Or is my editing style cut too rapidly ?
@@DATTperfect for me 😅
@@gdwlaw5549 Hah, nice !