At 5:11 to fill the lubricator, it is best to squirt the stm oil from the top after opening the bttm drain hole. Keep on pumping the oil until oil shows up at the drain hole. Now, the lubricator cyl is free of water n air bubble. U can then suck out or stop pumping just maybe 1/8" above the bottom of the plug screw to allow steam input room in the lubricator. Yes, i understand u just ran this engine partially just B4 this video session. But still, it is better to nut (not) just drip it out and guess if the water is all out. This replenishing of the stm oil is nec. as u want to continue running the loco for more than the maker's designated run time. So goes w the water n fuel. But unless u have say, Goodall valve, or a clack valve, u can't replenish water under boiler pressure. U need to wait till the boiler cools down to 0 psi. Further more, if u c the lubricator's oil not being used or little used for the said duration run, then watch out!!!
Hi, thanks for the great video. That's a beautiful machine. As a live steam novice I'm wondering about the function of the steam oil. Is it something to do with lubricating the internal mechanism or is it something that adds to the overall quality of the steam produced? Many thanks...Tom
The steam oil (grade 460 only for model locos, nothing else) is specifically formulated for use in lubricators. As per the other reply, instead of breaking down, it’s designed to be carried with the steam to oil the valves and pistons that can’t be reached externally with the normal oil
Send her back to the maker. If u want to save some labor n shipping costs, u can remove the boiler urself off the chassis n body. Or maybe it's nut (not) the boiler dat's leaking. Maybe condensate from the cold cylinders leaked into the smoke box? Chk it out.
hi, can I ask, how long does it take to properly fill the gas tank please? I have a caradoc loco, it appears to be full after only a few seconds but I can only get about 5 mins of burning time out of it. I understand it should be 20 mins? Don't know where I'm going wrong. Thanks.
I have to say I do not have a Caradoc, but I do have a Mortimer (similar 0-4-0 layout) and that tank takes about 30 seconds to fill and indeed lasts about 20-25 minutes. The question has to be asked, are you sure it is full when you think it is? Does the gas spray out as it does on my video? I cannot see any other possible reason as to why it would only last 5 minutes when full.
Also you can try once it’s full try pressing down but not a strongly and that tends to get at least 5 more minutes on my Talgarth which is quite similar to the caradoc and ragleth.
@@AceEngineeringWorks Or, it can b a bad input vale can also b the cause. Unscrew it (need a forked wrench u may make out of a flat scrw drvr) n check it out, or just replace it. It's known as Ranson valve used for a butane cigarette lighter. RndHse shld have a spare... Also, if the tank's temperature is too cold, the gas won't go in. May try wrapping the tank w a warm soaked cloth?
DRIFT3RS consider the roundhouse basic series. They are incredibly simple, but when upgraded they are wonderful. They are also good for beginners, if you are one.
Whilst I applaud the video in general there are two specific points which I feel are potentially misleading to novice live steam enthusiasts.... Namely One. The over enthusiastic use of lubricating oil, Roundhouse themselves (and all manufacturers) warn about over lubrication which attracts metal particles and dirt which will grind into the moving parts and ultimately shorten the life of the loco. Far better to use a small paintbrush to apply oil or better still a small hypodermic syringe. And secondly lighting the gas below the boiler, this is bringing a flame into close contact with potential r/c components and paintwork. Far better to ignite at the funnel as per Roundhouse recommendations. Also developing this good habit will be transferable to other makes of loco (ie Accucraft) whereas the under boiler lighting method may not be possible! It's also been mentioned that you did not cover r/c checks when an r/c system is clearly fitted to the loco. Finally you describe the loco as being in good condition as bought, the damage to the bottom of the cylinders suggests otherwise! Happy steaming!
Whist I agree with the points raised about not checking the r/c, generally with 2.4 ghz radio systems they either work or don't. That said once you get to know your engine you will know by a quick glance whether the regulator is open or shut and sat in gear or not. Therefore the engine will simply not take off. With regard to battery level, I listen to the servos when operating. If they don't sound right, then its time to change the battery. The generous use of oil is something I often do. Yes it may create a larger surface area for collecting dirt, meanwhile it also flushes it out at the same time. A mere dab of oil will also in turn gather dirt particles that do not get flushed out if not generously applied. This is my theory and I'm sticking to it. I have engines that are 20+ years old that I have owned from new, ran regularly and not had to replace motion parts on yet. For me this system works. For lighting the burner below the smoke box. You cannot simply generalize where you light an engine. Most accucraft you open the smoke box and light inside. Be aware of what engine you have in front of you and adapt your technique to what it needs, (eg gas tanks are always filled differently, you wouldn't try and fill an accucraft ngg16 gas tank in the cab? You wouldn't light a Roundhouse Millie at the chimney?). With this particular engine lighting under the front buffer beam is easier, quicker and safer. The gas is heavier than air so it takes a while to get to the top of the chimney. Any delay in ignition will see the loco standing in an invisible puddle of gas, which will then go "pop" with all manner of interesting results when a source of ignition arrives. Lighting under the buffer beam puts the flame where the gas IS, not where it might be. May I also add that manufacturers/builders do not put perishable items directly below the smokebox alowing paint, radio or general damage to occur. We have all had smoke box fires that have not popped back properly so the area below the smoke box is in the direct firing line from this also. As for the locos general condition? She was 15 years old when this video was made so please excuse a little scuffing from the occasional derail. Surely you must have had one of those once in a while? It shows she has been used....
What's funnel? Or is it tunnel out in the track ahead? If this Lady Anne is truly a lady, then she must have her petticoat as a funnel under her boiler?
Excellent thank you, just purchased a used Lady Anne, my first proper live steam locomotive and this video is really helpful
you say "she has a few marks and scrapes", but I say "she has character, and she's a beauty!"
At 5:11 to fill the lubricator, it is best to squirt the stm oil from the top after opening the bttm drain hole.
Keep on pumping the oil until oil shows up at the drain hole. Now, the lubricator cyl is free of water n air bubble.
U can then suck out or stop pumping just maybe 1/8" above the bottom of the plug screw to allow steam input
room in the lubricator.
Yes, i understand u just ran this engine partially just B4 this video session. But still, it is better to nut (not) just
drip it out and guess if the water is all out. This replenishing of the stm oil is nec. as u want to continue running
the loco for more than the maker's designated run time. So goes w the water n fuel. But unless u have say,
Goodall valve, or a clack valve, u can't replenish water under boiler pressure. U need to wait till the boiler cools down
to 0 psi.
Further more, if u c the lubricator's oil not being used or little used for the said duration run, then watch out!!!
FWIW, would not a complete check of the on and off board be in order as well? Battery status, range check, servo function etc. ?
Hello,
Is there a hole underneath the smokebox which allowed you to light the gas burner? Would that be the oxygen supply?
Thanks!
Hi, thanks for the great video. That's a beautiful machine. As a live steam novice I'm wondering about the function of the steam oil. Is it something to do with lubricating the internal mechanism or is it something that adds to the overall quality of the steam produced? Many thanks...Tom
The stream passes through the lubricator and drags it along to the cylinders to oil them
The steam oil (grade 460 only for model locos, nothing else) is specifically formulated for use in lubricators. As per the other reply, instead of breaking down, it’s designed to be carried with the steam to oil the valves and pistons that can’t be reached externally with the normal oil
Hello My Lady Anne has a water leakage at the front of the boiler can this be fixed?
Send her back to the maker. If u want to save some labor n shipping costs, u can remove the boiler urself off
the chassis n body. Or maybe it's nut (not) the boiler dat's leaking. Maybe condensate from the cold cylinders
leaked into the smoke box? Chk it out.
hi, can I ask, how long does it take to properly fill the gas tank please? I have a caradoc loco, it appears to be full after only a few seconds but I can only get about 5 mins of burning time out of it. I understand it should be 20 mins? Don't know where I'm going wrong. Thanks.
I have to say I do not have a Caradoc, but I do have a Mortimer (similar 0-4-0 layout) and that tank takes about 30 seconds to fill and indeed lasts about 20-25 minutes. The question has to be asked, are you sure it is full when you think it is? Does the gas spray out as it does on my video? I cannot see any other possible reason as to why it would only last 5 minutes when full.
Thank you for your reply. I probably don't fill it for 30 seconds (seems longer than you think), i'll give it another try and see. Many thanks.
Also you can try once it’s full try pressing down but not a strongly and that tends to get at least 5 more minutes on my Talgarth which is quite similar to the caradoc and ragleth.
@@AceEngineeringWorks Or, it can b a bad input vale can also b the cause. Unscrew it (need a forked wrench u may make out of a flat
scrw drvr) n check it out, or just replace it. It's known as Ranson valve used for a butane cigarette lighter. RndHse shld have a spare...
Also, if the tank's temperature is too cold, the gas won't go in. May try wrapping the tank w a warm soaked cloth?
What is price?
They Are an awful lot of money, even second hand. Any cheaper companies?
DRIFT3RS consider the roundhouse basic series. They are incredibly simple, but when upgraded they are wonderful. They are also good for beginners, if you are one.
Whilst I applaud the video in general there are two specific points which I feel are potentially misleading to novice live steam enthusiasts....
Namely One. The over enthusiastic use of lubricating oil, Roundhouse themselves (and all manufacturers) warn about over lubrication which attracts metal particles and dirt which will grind into the moving parts and ultimately shorten the life of the loco. Far better to use a small paintbrush to apply oil or better still a small hypodermic syringe.
And secondly lighting the gas below the boiler, this is bringing a flame into close contact with potential r/c components and paintwork. Far better to ignite at the funnel as per Roundhouse recommendations. Also developing this good habit will be transferable to other makes of loco (ie Accucraft) whereas the under boiler lighting method may not be possible!
It's also been mentioned that you did not cover r/c checks when an r/c system is clearly fitted to the loco.
Finally you describe the loco as being in good condition as bought, the damage to the bottom of the cylinders suggests otherwise!
Happy steaming!
Whist I agree with the points raised about not checking the r/c, generally with 2.4 ghz radio systems they either work or don't. That said once you get to know your engine you will know by a quick glance whether the regulator is open or shut and sat in gear or not. Therefore the engine will simply not take off. With regard to battery level, I listen to the servos when operating. If they don't sound right, then its time to change the battery.
The generous use of oil is something I often do. Yes it may create a larger surface area for collecting dirt, meanwhile it also flushes it out at the same time. A mere dab of oil will also in turn gather dirt particles that do not get flushed out if not generously applied. This is my theory and I'm sticking to it. I have engines that are 20+ years old that I have owned from new, ran regularly and not had to replace motion parts on yet. For me this system works.
For lighting the burner below the smoke box. You cannot simply generalize where you light an engine. Most accucraft you open the smoke box and light inside. Be aware of what engine you have in front of you and adapt your technique to what it needs, (eg gas tanks are always filled differently, you wouldn't try and fill an accucraft ngg16 gas tank in the cab? You wouldn't light a Roundhouse Millie at the chimney?). With this particular engine lighting under the front buffer beam is easier, quicker and safer. The gas is heavier than air so it takes a while to get to the top of the chimney. Any delay in ignition will see the loco standing in an invisible puddle of gas, which will then go "pop" with all manner of interesting results when a source of ignition arrives.
Lighting under the buffer beam puts the flame where the gas IS, not where it might be.
May I also add that manufacturers/builders do not put perishable items directly below the smokebox alowing paint, radio or general damage to occur. We have all had smoke box fires that have not popped back properly so the area below the smoke box is in the direct firing line from this also.
As for the locos general condition? She was 15 years old when this video was made so please excuse a little scuffing from the occasional derail. Surely you must have had one of those once in a while? It shows she has been used....
What's funnel? Or is it tunnel out in the track ahead? If this Lady Anne is truly a lady, then she must have her petticoat as a funnel
under her boiler?