The Leash Pressure Game FOR PUPPIES! - to STOP PULLING on leash
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- čas přidán 28. 08. 2024
- Is your puppy pulling? Teach the Leash Pressure GAME!
If there were one exercise I think every puppy and dog should learn if they have to abide by leash laws, it is this one. If you want to know why some people struggle with a dog who pulls on leash, besides the issue of over-arousal, it is because they haven’t yet trained and proofed this behavior.
The giving into leash pressure game teaches your puppy what to do when he hits the end of the leash, which is to turn around and come back to you. By training and conditioning leash pressure in small enough approximations it is possible to turn what is usually a frustrating and aversive experience into a cue that has a positive association to the dog that simply means “move with me”. A lot of people believe certain stimuli are “intrinsically” reinforcing or punishing. But this is simply untrue. It is possible through training and conditioning to change an animal’s emotional response to a certain stimuli. Instead of just relying on habituation, where dogs learn over repetition that being moved by you on leash isn’t terrible I suggest playing these training games to make it an experience where the dog doesn’t feel like it’s some sort of intimidation game. I also suggest doing the same with teaching a dog to be picked up as well as handled and groomed.
Video tutorials mentioned:
Attention Game- • The Attention Game!
Recall- • Teach ANY puppy to com...
Leash walking reinforcing for standing next to you - • Stop pulling and "Yo-y...
Direction changes- • How to stop your dog l...
Step 1
Add light pressure on the leash as you lure your puppy forward and then feed a treat.
Step 2
Put a distraction down on the ground that makes the puppy pull on leash. Use your attention noise or treat lure to get your puppy to turn around and come back to you.
2 Use a lower value treat as the distraction and a higher value treat as the reinforcer.
Step 3
Put a distraction down on the ground that makes the puppy pull on leash. When the puppy is on a tight leash, move in the opposite direction of the puppy without jerking him. Mark and reinforce when you see your puppy turn in your direction. If the puppy doesn't turn toward you within 2 seconds, use your attention noise or treat lure to get your puppy to turn around and come back to you.
Step 4
Practice with different distractions in different situations
What to do if your puppy doesn't turn around:
1 Practice from further away from the distraction (You can have a helper put down the distraction to make this easier.)
If you're doing the exercise correctly, you will find that your puppy will stop pulling all together. This is a good thing! If he keeps trying to go for the distraction it means the distraction is too difficult, too close or you need to spend more time marking and reinforcing him for staying with you after he comes back. In real life situations if your puppy starts pulling on leash you can simply back up until he is on a loose leash then wait a little bit until you have made a connection with him again before walking forward.
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Lee Gordon
Thank you to Lee and all my Kikopup members for making these videos possible!
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Happy Training! - Emily Larlham (AKA Kikopup)
#dogtraining #professionaldogtraining #puppytraining
As much as I wish I had sent my dog to Brandon for training before bringing him home czcams.com/users/postUgkx1_veP7CApJK_GWy_TczaMciuG64PqJeU I am so grateful for this down-to-earth, practical guide. His training techniques and tips really work. Thank you as well for dedicating your life's work to rescue dogs, and to rescuing those of us who want the very best for our 4-legged family members.
This is GOLD. I believe every dog owner should learn how to handle the leash without creating conflict.
Can't tell you how much I love this ! Teaching leash pressure has yet to fail me for fixing pulling. It always works for me, any collar/harness combination.
Awe thanks Tesla. I included the first step being lure and add pressure at the same time, in the same way when working with handling touch and feed at the same time, because a lot of pet dog owners might not see the signs the puppy is uncomfortable if you were simply to add the pressure first and then feed a treat after... sometimes that is too much for the dog, so this was my most fool proof method for a youtube video. Honestly I struggled for weeks to think of the wording and how to stay it that would stop a puppy from having a negative experience during this game. I hope it helps a lot of puppies and helps blossom a lot of human and animal relationships :)
@@kikopup I've had a couple of clients who's dogs would lose it with even slight leash pressure and struggled, that extra step you described is genius and will be going straight into my routine. Thank you again, for being doing what you do and inspiring me for so many years.
@@TeslaNick2 Awe thanks.
This is so helpful. My puppy would ignore me 100% of the time when we go outside. He gets too entirely distracted by just about everything and gets too overly excited when he sees other people.
You are an amazing teacher for dogs and people!!!!!
Thanks that means a lot.
Kiko is a goddess.
My puppy is struggling with pulling on leash especially if she sees people or other dogs. We're working on it step by step and you made this video just in time to speed everything up, thank you!
there is another game to play if you email me at dogmanticsstore@gmail.com But also importantly, if you teach your dog to be calm around people and dogs then the pulling goes away. So doing exercises like settling on a mat around people and dogs will help a lot :)
I struggle with the same issue around other people and dogs. If they come closer than my pups threshold, all his good manners that we have trained go out the window. I would love to learn some games to help with this. At a certain distance he is great at settling and staying calm but there are situations where the distance can’t be controlled
I'm writing a comment to support your excellent channel. Your efforts are greatly appreciated!!
I'm already learning even though I'll get a puppy next year :) It's so much better to be prepared, it makes me feel caring and loving even before getting the puppy. Training it's a form of respect!
My puppy is 16 months old and this exercise has helped us so much in just a few days. After three group training sessions and a few one on one this has been the most effective. Wish I had found it earlier, but that's ok, we'll work it out now.
You know? Puppies dont remember what they learned as puppies... the same as we dont remember when we met our aunt sally on some trip etc... Some of that info gets tossed out in the trash... So most people have to do brush up training in adulthood for stuff like leash pulling. Also their motivations are so different as a puppy and as an adult its like a different dog... So you would have had to do brush up lessons anyway :) So dont fret. You got this! :)
I trained something similar, the same idea, but your details and explanation are better. We will try again adding your concepts.
Thanks for this remake! Really excellent.
This is such an important topic.
Besides Chrissi Schranz you are the only dogtrainer
who propagates this technique.
This game has helped us a lot.
I have no idea WHY people dont see the value in it... I learned it from my mentor gosh over 16 years ago... I have no idea why its taking people so long to cotton on...
I'm glad to have become aware of your channel. There are many new nouances of dog training to be found here. Thanks!
Wonderful clear easy to follow games/exercises that yields fantastic results everytime. Thanks for sharing you knowledge & experience. Your time dedication, commitment & enthusiastic approach are very much appreciated. Thank you so much.
Thanks also Lee Gordon & all of the supporting members for helping keep this channel possible. Without you all I suspect this channel would be difficult to sustain. Countless dogs worldwide are benefiting directly as a result of Emily's teaching. Educating & spreading positive training behaviours in a way only Emily knows how. Helping us all understand our dogs much much better. I feel this is particularly important in times of crisis when dogs often get neglected. Thank you everyone. Much love to all.
Yes indeed. The memberships program is making it so I can focus on my youtube channel to get the information out there for the general public :) Thanks!!!!
@@kikopup Thanks so much Emily. Your work makes such a difference & is very much appreciated. Thanks.
My puppy is 14 weeks now and we just hit a bump with the leash! He was walking wonderfully but now is a hellion if he smells something. And hitting the end of the lead just made him frustrated and begin twisting in his harness. This helped a lot!
I'm binge watching your videos. Thank you for everything ❤️❤️
Oh you are very welcome! :)
This is EXACTLY what I needed to see. Thank you!
Oh you are welcome!
Thank you so much for all your videos. This is exactly the video I needed!
You are very welcome :)
Thanks for teaching such an important skill!
Thank you for this video! We are training our Bichon Frise pup, Luna. She is an excellent dog who wants to please, but we are just learning to be dog parents. These videos are so helpful! But, it turns out Luna is easier to train than my husband. :) I'm hoping I truly understood what you mean by the dog will "generalize the behavior" and that Luna will be as obedient with hubby as she is with me. But, first I have to get hubby to use the same commands I use. He uses "no" and "stop it" for everything, but Luna understands "No" as a general corrections. She also understands "with me" (heel) "wait" (stay) and "off" (four on the floor), so it's confusing for her to be told "no" when he really just wants her not to jump on his lap, which she would understand if he said "off." I'm bell training her for going out to potty. While I work from home, I get distracted and ignore her cues (not on purpose; I'm just working) and I want to give her a simple way to let me know it's serious. She's so trainable! Now I just need to get hubby to follow through with what I'm doing.
All your videos are fantastic, Emily (as everyone's told you you're a great teacher), but this one I really have to try. My pup is crazy about sniffing when we walk around and just reinforcing walking next to me doesn't seem to be working.
Thank you so much! I have been looking for these kind of training exercises that are solid and on point.
Thank you for your excellent training videos! I am doing a ton of puppy research before getting my first dog at the end of the year - your videos break everything down so nicely. Can’t wait to try your methods out 😊
👍Tnx for sharing,it's very helpful
Thank you👍 !
So helpful, thank you
You're so welcome!
1.for a puppy just arrived home, how many sections do I do in the same
day? and how long is each section?
2.Is it possible for the dog to associate the fact of pulling and then
being reinforced, and continue pulling to continue being reinforced?
*Forgive me for writing, I am using a translator.
that is a great question :) Yes, if the trainer let the dog pull every time and then gave a treat, the dog might learn to pull to get the treat. So it is very important to get to the point where you mark and feed multiple times before then resetting so the dog pulls again, and get to the point where you mark and feed for the dog not pulling at all. The first time the dog plays the game they might pull every time for 10-20 times, but after 1-2 training sessions I would make sure that the dog learns in 3-5 repetitions that its the leash pressure game- if the dog keeps pulling toward the distraction it means its too hard and you need to make the distraction easier or create more distance from it. Here is a video about training sessions, czcams.com/video/Wn9qtqlZguY/video.html for this exercise you could work on it for 1-2 mins max, as its kind of repetitive, but you could include it in a training session where you work on other behaviors, such as training for 5 mins and the leash pressure game just makes up 30-60 seconds of the training session.
@@kikopup
Thank you so much Emily, I understood perfectly !
Another great video! ❤
Thanks!!!!
I have a 40kg mastiff rescue who is very reactive. Picking him up is not an option and he's more than capable of putting me on the deck if he pulls and I'm not expecting it. Going to work on this. It's very similar to training techniques I've used with young ponies and horses.
Yes keep conditioning this, and when pulling starts to come back do more sessions of it. You can set up distractions in your home and yard first before doing it out and about
I'm aware that in order to walk nicely on a loose leash I should introduce distractions step by step but how can I manage puppy socialization ? Because wouldn't my puppy be rehearsing pulling cause he's not fully leash trained yet ? How can I balance these two?
Love it you are very helpful
Yay! This is actually the one exercise I think every dog should learn and yet its not very well known...
Thank you so much ...
Its very useful...🙏
With the older dog, it looks like you only reinforce him for offering the behavior after he pulls. Is there a reason why you dont reinforce for staying with you/offering eye contact? Im assuming either you were just doing that for demonstration purposes, or maybe because it would get too confusing to choose when to mark?
Thank you for the Video 💗💗💗
:) It's a pleasure!
my puppies natural tail position is tucked 😂 thank you for this advice
What should I do when my puppy lays down during our walks so she can sniff the grass? She ignores me if I say "lets go" and I always end up having to drag her away or pick her up?
Practice this game inside, and if the dog sits or lays, lure the dog forward. You can do the same when outside, add the leash pressure, then the lure with the treat. Also if your puppy comes with you, you can say "ok, go sniff" and then let your puppy go back and sniff whatever it was. This way your dog learns that your recall doesnt "end the good stuff" which could lead to the dog feeling punished when being called. If your recall, lets go, and leash pressure, means that if the dog listens hell get what he wanted in the environment it will really build the reliability of the behaviors.
Great video!!
Any idea why some dogs take longer to get this on a consistent basis? I noticed my larger breed dogs took years compared to the smaller dogs. Love the video as awlays.
If reinforcement happens for pulling (and not enough reinforcement for not) or the dog is so aroused that they dont notice they are pulling.
Thank you so much for the great video. I always love your instructions because it is easy to follow for various puppies and also rescue dogs.
About the leash pressure, I'm confused a little because some trainers use leash pressure( or opposition reflex) to train recall. Because of the pressure on the harness( or collar) the puppy gets excited to come to the handler, and I thought it might be a great technique.
At the same time, it is extremely important for a puppy to loosen the leash when she feels the pressure as you mentioned.... My questions are:
Do you use opposition reflex when you train your dogs to come to you?
If so, how do you inform your dog different situations with tight leash :when to get excited, or when to chill back(walk next to you calmly) ?
I personally don't like to restrain a dog to build drive because I have worked with so many dogs who are reactive and over aroused.... I know its big in the sports world. If you were to play this game, I suggest simply resting your hands on the shoulders of the dog or puppy, and telling them a verbal cue that means struggle and try to pull forward. I really dont think its a good idea for the throat to do this exercise with the collar. Ive even seen trainers lift the dog off the ground by the collar. Sometimes choking a dog can cause arousal... so it is used for protection sports, but there are other ways to train behaviors besides getting a dog aroused by choking them.
I agree that restrain can cause a dog to be over-aroused.
II'm working with a 2yrs old rescue dog who didn't quite like her harness grabbed.
She loves attention game, recall, mat work, some other exercises you showed.
But I'm having trouble building the duration I'm holding her harness. She is OK as long as the pressure on the harness is less than 1sec.
I didn't do well with step1(light pressure with Lure) of the Leash Pressure game. She did follow the lure, but after the 2 repetition she left where she was. (She was off leash inside the house) She came back to me soon, but she wasn't attentive like usual.
She doesn't react when I hold her harness, she kind of shut her down.
When I asked the question above, I was wondering restrain-recall could give her some confidence to go forward when her harness is tight.
I'll try your "chin rest" exercise instead. Do you think it could gives her idea to keep shoulders on my hand is a good thing? I hope I'm not off topic....
We love you Emily!
Awe I needed that today! Thanks TheSoulS Colours :)
Dog Training by Kikopup I’ll say it anytime you need me to eheh!
I like your work
Oh thank you :)
My 13 week old lab puppy gets over excited with the treat aspect of training. She jumps and twists sometimes when she sees me reaching for the treats and will not walk by my side calmly. Sometimes if i try to go without treats she just sits and refuses to walk. Any suggestions?
If you want to encourage pulling on the Back end of the harness, but would like to get a loose leash walk on the front end of a harness, is this OK to do? The exercises in the video can simply be done on the front end only?
Yes indeed. A great idea :) I have done this with clients dogs and the difference of wear the leash attaches really makes it easy to understand when to pull and when not to.
Could these exercises also help with an older puppy (8mo), who already got into a bad habit of pulling with a lot of force? I wish I saw this video earlier!
Sometimes dogs start pulling again in their adolescence anyway. The behavior is very changeable. It will take some time and patience. When you think about how long the dog has been on earth... just a few months, we expect so much from dogs ins such a short time on earth than we do expect from humans. Don't stress about the pulling, it's just a matter of doing some training games and having a bit of patience on the walks. I have a playlist on youtube on all my free videos on leash walking czcams.com/play/PL7287C737FB745168.html I also have a 6 week self study course on leash walking on my website dogmantics.com/product/leash-walking-connected/
@@kikopup
Thanks for mentioning the change during adolescence- my pup is almost 8 months old, and he's become quite the teenager 😂 this gives me so much hope
Thanks for giving me new insights into leash pressure training! There where absolutely some things in this video I had not thought about.
I'm wondering about dogs that are being trained to do something where they should NOT give in to leash pressure (like tracking or cani-cross). How do we make it clear to such a dog when to give in and when to push against the pressure of the leash?
I do have my own solution which is to use a harness when the dog is allowed to pull and a collar when no pulling is allowed. It seems my dog also reads the situation fairly well so she'll often walk nicely in her harness when we're not actively tracking or running. I'm really curious to find out how others deal with this, or if someone has a fresh perspective or idea.
A verbal or situational cue. A verbal cue "Mush" or "Pull", I use "pull" Im training my borders to pull me on a scooter, dont have the scooter yet, but working on pulling and direction changes, speed changes and stopping while pulling first. A situational cue, changing the harness or simply the dog understands the environment means a different behavior. This is one reason people who use flexi leads or have the dog off leash, then try to walk the dog in the same area on a short leash will suddenly have a dog who is pulling when first in this situation, because the environment is cuing their previous behavior of running about at a different speed. With practice however dogs can learn the new cue of the shorter leash means the previous behavior is not possible.
@@kikopup Those are some good points! The cue of being in a certain environment plays a huge role for my dog, it's really something i should give more thought... How nice to hear you are also training your dogs to pull:) I hope you will make a video on it some day!
@@emmamemma4162 I hopefully will. Still need a scooter :) I think I might kill myself on a bike!
Hi, we have a 13 month old fox red lab (entire male). He had surgery on both front legs for elbow dysplasia when he was 5 months old. One leg still gives him bother from time to time. He pulls really really hard on his harness, collar, gen con - it doesn't matter what we try on him he still pulls with great strength. In turn, this pushes down through his elbow and he quite often ends up needing prescribed pain relief. I feel that if we could teach him loose leash walking this would help his leg greatly and of course make walking him much more enjoyable. Could you please advise which download we would be best to buy/download. Thank you very much.
This exercise will of course be of great help. I have a video with an adult dog doing the exercise. czcams.com/video/Q4vEayrRyB0/video.html As for courses I have a 6 week self study course on leash walking dogmantics.com/product/leash-walking-connected/ 1 Thing to do is to walk back and forth instead of in a circuit as this will cut down on the excitement to move forward as the dog will have checked out the areas already. I suggest first starting out by walking back and forth 10-20 feet and then expanding how far you walk as your dog relaxes. Another thing you can do is get your dog to settle on a mat, walk away from the mat and then return and work on the settling behavior.
@@kikopup Thank you so much for your reply. Very much appreciated :-)
I'm really struggling with my little chihuahua who is 18 months old. When he was 12 weeks old and should have been out having his puppy socialisation he was on strict cage rest for 4 weeks after having heart surgery which he had to have at that age or he would have died within a month or so. When he was given the all clear and I started to take him out with my other dogs, 4 chihuahuas, he was so anxious and just wanted to run it didn't matter if we were heading out or heading home he just tried to run as though he was frightened of everything and wanted to get away. I had a behaviorist in to see him when he was 6 months old and I wasn't getting anywhere with him and she couldn't figure out what was wrong with him or what was frightening him. My other dogs are so well behaved and I can let them off lead and they all come back immediately they're called and it makes me so sad that I cant let him off too as I know he would disappear. If he is pulling really hard I stop for a moment and he frantically looks around although no idea what he's looking for. It breaks my heart that he is so frightened and I can't seem to help him, do you have any videos that you could recommend me to watch so that I can possibly find a way to help him. He is perfect in the house and garden and is so full of confidence but beyond that he is a nervous wreck.
I suggest teaching a settle on a dog bed, then bring the bed places and just work on being calm without also moving at the same time in new places, you can also bring a carrier for him to learn to relax in when out and about .
What about adult dogs? For instance, in my case, I got a dog that is reactive and easily excitable at the same time. I worked with her as a puppy (following your earlier videos) and she turned out fine as long as she is calm. When stress levels or excitement kicks in, on the feel of pressure, she will instantly pull like Newton's 3rd law of motion (equally strong and in the opposite direction). Do you think that this game, could be used in a case like this?
I do have my leash walking course on my website that is made just for dogs in this situation and also this free video on leash pressure using a reactive adolescent dog - czcams.com/video/Q4vEayrRyB0/video.html
Hello Kikopup, can I ask for an advice? I'm thinking about following your protocol with our 11 week old belgian, but we want to do canicross in the future, in both of which the dog has to pull on the harness...so I worry that if we build a conditioned response to turn to me when he pulls, I'll have problem later on when we will want to do both of those sports..what are your thoughts on this?
hi great video! just wondering what is the reason for putting the treat on the ground in the game at 2:25? thanks :)
Great question! For training walking at your side, if you put the treat down on the ground before you take a step forward, it gives you time to get ahead of your dog. If you feed your dog at your side (with a bigger faster dog) and then take a step, some dogs will already be ahead of you and even hitting the end of the leash.
I am a beginner with dog training and I have been watching all your vids to prepare for my new puppy. Do you recommend any harnesses? I don’t know which to buy or how to choose one... Is there anything I should be looking for on a harness? I’m scared of buying something that will be uncomfortable or normt durable, is there any recommend brands? Thank you!!
Why do you put the treat/reward on the ground instead of giving it directly to the puppy?
It depends on the situation but usually If the puppy is still taking treats hard
@@kikopup thank you!
We can't see the subtitle blocking the dog
You can turn them off at the bottom of the screen
I’ve been Trying to teach my dog “let’s go” to get him walking on a leash. It works the majority of the time but sometimes I cannot get him to go. But I’ve noticed if I say “good boy” even when he’s not doing the right thing he will usually snap back into doing the right thing. Is this teaching him a bad habit to say good boy before he actually is one? Or do the ends justify the means?
What you are experiencing is that the "good boy" has a knee jerk reaction because you created a stimulus response association because of your awesome conditioning (like when we see green lights and just go), and the "let's go" does not yet have this. You really want to reinforce the behaviors you like. So when approaching things BEFORE your dog pulls, say when your dog first notices a person or dog, you can say "good boy". And for lets go and leash pressure, just make the scenario easier where your dog can start to have successes and a stimulus response association will be created.
I have used this technique on a Brittany Spaniel: he does come back and it reinforced his pulling. He comes back and pulls again as a chain behavior. What to do?
How do I stop my 14 week old lab jumping up at every person she sees? She is so excitable, I already feel I have lost control of her on a leash. She is going to be so big and strong that leash walking petrifies me. I am trying asking the stranger to ignore her, then treat when all 4 feet on the ground. I am literally despairing even though very early days!
Do you have a solution for if your dog just doesn't want to leave the house to use the bathroom, walks, ect. ?
Hello dear Emily,
I have a question about dogs barking. Why does a dog bark? And when does dog bark?
And is it harmful for dog not to bark?
I hope you can help me with this matter 😊
Dogs bark for many reasons. They could bark because they get startled, because excited, because they want to initiate play, because scared etc. Some dogs are more vocal than others. Some dogs bark when they are much calmer, other dogs bark only when over threshold... If your dog is scared or startled and you train your dog to be comfortable instead the side effect of barking goes away... So the dog stops barking, this is not harmful. But if a dogs barking is punished and the underlying emotional issue isnt addressed then I believe it can be harmful. That is why I dont suggest using punishment to stop barking. Hope that answered your question. I personally like to get my dogs to bark and howl as a trick or to music sometimes when the singer has a high pitched voice so that they can all join in barking for fun.
Wow,
Thank you so much for explaining the barking. I was worry about it. Thougt it was a bad thing 😃
I am planning to get a puppy in 10 months from now....because i have to save money for it. Within the 10 months i am planning to get every month a puppy / dog needs like a bench, a bed, potty pads, some toys, feeding supplies, a leash, a clicker, a safety fence i believe and some rugs because i have wooden floor, so it will be to slippery for dog....omg so many things for a dog. Its like having a baby 😁
My youngest brother is planning to get a husky...if you have any advise for me to give him as a first time dog owner please do.
I hope you will/can if you have opportunity to make a video about the barking....like you explained in words?
Love your work!!!! Take care ❤❤❤
Oh btw i am in love with king charles spaniel....i think its a good dogbreed for beginners. Hope you agree?!
Kikopup
Can you please say what you think in regards to this video and a almost 3 year old labrador who is extremely smart and learns pretty much everything right away but when it comes to pulling she literally just will not stop pulling. I've taken her to multiple training classes with many different dog trainers and they all tell me that they can stop my dog from pulling and now almost 3 years later and I don't know how much money wasted on training classes for pulling my labrador is still pulling me just as much as she always has.
Thank you very much for any help you might be able to give me 🙂🐾👍✌
Yessss 👐🙏
:)
Please help. We have a gorgeous 4mo GSD who is doing really well with your loose leash training. The problem is she goes nuts anytime a car drive by. She lunges at the car with very aggressive barking and snarling. How do we change this behavior? PS We ❤️ your vids.
Email me at dogmanticsstore@gmail.com for the moment AVOID cars and things that move fast like bicycles and joggers, if you see a car or fast moving object or person coming near turn around quickly and dont let her see it, because the dog is over threshold and it can make the problem much harder to get rid of and might show up later in life. The key is to stop it happening completely by not letting her see these fast moving things besides in training sessions where they are far enough away that you can teach her to ignore them. This is very typical of herding breeds.
will this work with an older puppy (11 mo) who has developed bad habits/isn’t responding to recalls anymore etc?
What age should this start?
After 8 weeks it doesnt matter as long as you get those 4 first exercises down so you build the reinforcement value of moving toward you first.
My puppy is doing good in the house with this but when we go out to potty he still pulls.
Is it good to feed so much treat to your dog? Would they be so used to it that they need treat everytime?
You can use their daily ration of food. The goal is to make access to the environment contingent on doing appropriate behaviors so for all leash walking exercises the reward becomes getting to sniff and explore. For my own puppy I repeated this exercise just 3 times and then never needed to do brush up training sessions with treats, but for other dogs who have a lot of things they are over excited to pull toward you might need to go back and proof with those distractions.
Do you have any advice for if your puppy lays down and refuses to move even with treats?
This can at times mean the puppy is tired, but if you dont think this is the case, you can try using a longer leash, puppies tend to follow if you move fast away, but if you are stuck next to the puppy on a short leash its hard to created interest in moving with you. So you could use a long line and have it bunched up as you walk, then if the puppy stops you move fast and make enticing noises like "pup pup pup" as you move away and some puppies will come if you crouch further away to entice them.
Can I ask what you mean by "tug the tail"? I keep rewatching but I don't understand what the motion is. Is it just the dog pulling backwards to refusing to move?
Can you tell me the time in the video which is confusing in minutes and seconds? I am not sure I understand.
She’s saying if the puppy is tucking its tail.
Is it okay for my pup to walk in front of me, on a loose leash. or should he always walk beside me or behind me to show that i'm the leader?
I personally like my dogs to walk slightly ahead of me so I can see their moods, and because I have smaller dogs, so I dont step on them. Walking next to you is good for busy cities where you might need to suddenly make a turn into your dog, if your dog is ahead of you then its hard to turn. Also when the dog is next you you can block other people from petting or letting their dog come near when they pass, if the dog is out in front they might help themselves...
@@kikopup Okay so walking in front of me won't be confusing for him as to pack order? I agree that i prefer them in front of me so i don't constantly have to look behind me to see what he's doing. But was wondering if that may make them think they rank higher than me
@@amkeVH pack theory has no scientific backgrounds. Dogs consider humans and other dogs more as colleagues, than as boss. Idea of rank has no sense in between species at all and precisely for dogs they don't have a rank in their dog groups. They do the tasks accordingly to situations which appear in their environment. I grew up in a country with plenty of stray dogs and trust me, they don't have packs, they just are some kind of commune or cooperation team! It's just visible.
My pup (4.5 months) automatically jumps in front of me for his reward. Will that become a habit?
Yeah, i think it will become a habit. You can put the treats below him instead of putting the treat on your hand. So that ur pup can expect the treat below him. (Or her)
i would love to leave my dog with you for months and let you to 'fix' his bad habits - I'm losing my patience already... after months working on him, still cannot get rid of his running after others or either get his attention when distractions are around such as - toys (BALLS) other dogs, its getting better with a cars and other people :(
regarding the pulling leash he walks nice when we are in the quiet places, if it comes to the busy roads/ parks etc he goes mad and starting pulling also he very easily getting scared by sounds
We all feel like that. Caring for any dog can feel overwhelming and frustrating. We expect so much from dogs when they have barely been on the earth for very long. I mean we dont expect much from a human of the same age. Its good to understand that when the dog is a baby (a puppy), and an adolescent they are growing and learning and struggling to know what is going on in their world and training wont always go smoothly, there will be set backs and also achievements.
How do you hold your treats leash and clicker? Haha
That is a good question! I made a video on it. czcams.com/video/CVv_aeY9RP0/video.html I suggest using the clicker during training sessions, then in real life using a verbal marker for behaviors you already trained in training sessions.
@@kikopup
I see! I notice you use like a 2m leash, but I was recommended to use a 5m leash so that my dog has more freedom to move around. What are your thoughts on leash length? :)
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leash pressure is not all positive, you know. Theoretically, any kind of pressure is not positive reinforcement.If you are positive reinforcement trainer, you are not allowed to use a leash pressure, or any kind of pressure, am I right? Cause if you do, than you are a balanced trainer, right? You lose your place in the positive reinforcement sect.
I don’t understand what you’re saying. A reasonable amount of light pressure is not negative or positive. It’s what you attach to that pressure, the conditioning aspect, that can be negative or positive. For example, if you encourage and reward for the dog coming toward you when you apply light pressure, that experience is positive. If you apply pressure and then yell or then yank the leash, that’s negative. I think you’re confusing light pressure for aggressiveness, but that’s not the case. The pressure is a cue and you charge that cue with a value.
This is written in the description, as it is a common misconception: A lot of people believe certain stimuli are “intrinsically” reinforcing or punishing. But this is simply untrue. It is possible through training and conditioning to change an animal’s emotional response to a certain stimuli. Instead of just relying on habituation, where dogs learn over repetition that being moved by you on leash isn’t terrible I suggest playing these training games to make it an experience where the dog doesn’t feel like it’s some sort of intimidation game. I also suggest doing the same with teaching a dog to be picked up as well as handled and groomed. (With these types of games, the focus is on conditioning a positive emotional response with classical conditioning as well as reinforcing a specific behavior. The antecedent is the leash tension, the behavior is the dog coming back to the person, the reinforcer is a treat. To make sure the animal is not finding the leash pressure an aversive you really can only tell by their body language. czcams.com/video/oAk8eMRHYjU/video.html I made a video on that :) Hope that helps. Heres my manifesto- the goal with training is to not intentionally use physical or psychological intimidation. Turning leash pressure into a conditioned punisher would be an intentional use of it as a punisher, but instead of that I condition it like you would handling and grooming. dogmantics.com/progressive-reinforcement-training-manifesto/
@@rubyrayne8 Some people have been let to believe that certain stimuli are intrinsically reinforcing or intrinsically punishing. This video I linked is a great example of how you can turn a punisher into a reinforcer and turn a reinforcer into a punisher. This is why it’s extremely important to understand that you can’t just label things as being intrinsically reinforcing or intrinsically punishing to dogs. Everything is subjective and fluid. Only the dogs brain decides what is reinforcing and what is punishing, not the trainer.
czcams.com/video/71T6K9IU9P0/video.html Everything is subjective, one dog could find a tiny touch of putting on a harness more "punishing" and a negative experience than another dog running out hitting the end of a leash at full speed.... The video will help.
Some people have been let to believe that certain stimuli are intrinsically reinforcing or intrinsically punishing. This video I linked is a great example of how you can turn a punisher into a reinforcer and turn a reinforcer into a punisher. This is why it’s extremely important to understand that you can’t just label things as being intrinsically reinforcing or intrinsically punishing to dogs. Everything is subjective and fluid. Only the dogs brain decides what is reinforcing and what is punishing, not the trainer.
czcams.com/video/71T6K9IU9P0/video.html Everything is subjective, one dog could find a tiny touch of putting on a harness more "punishing" and a negative experience than another dog running out hitting the end of a leash at full speed.... The video will help.
@@kikopup Look, what you do is avoidance training. NEPOPO. You teach the dog how to avoid unpleasant experience and get a reward.The dog hits the end of the leash, feels pressure on the chest/neck,(negative) the dog turns to you, the pressure is gone(positive), the dog runs to you and gets the reward, (the second positive). That is how all balanced trainers teach leash pressure too, you know. Nobody has ever said that to be a balanced trainer you must yank on the leash and scream to the dog or make him feel pain or something. The training of the good balanced trainers looks more like yours than you think. This stupid battle between allpositive and balanced trainers is stupid in my opinion. There is no way the dog can feel only positive experiences. Even if you never correct it, the environment and other dogs will be negative for him in some situations. You are a good dog trainer, and I admire you and your work, I have learned many things from you over the years. But, as soon as you get a big dog with serious aggression issues you will see that your methods are not enough. For border collies they are awesome, these dogs are notoriously soft and sensitive, but there are millions of dog out there that dont want to work for food or toys, all they want you is to eat you. It happened so that a older woman asked me one day to help her with her pitbull, who was aggressive towards dogs. When we were entering in the yard, the dog slipped between us unexpectedly and bited the neighbours dog, basically locked his jaws on his neck. There is no positive way to make a pitbull who was never trained to let go. I can tell you about 20 different situations in my life when the only option to save a dog or a human from a dogs jaws was not positive. Life is not all positive. Its all about a balance. And a good trainer prepares the dog in his first year for the moment when the correction is inevitable. You are doing great job sharing your positive techniques, and I dont see nothing bad in this, it is part of balanced training too, I just wish that you stay open minded. Anyways, I didnt mean to be mean, I really like you and your channel, allpositive works for dogs that are under 30kg with no aggression issues, and I really subscribe to the idea that we can train dogs without the use of pain or cruel old techniques, but without using pressure, its not possible. This is from a guy who has had 5 dogs over 40kg, one of which was a very aggressive rottie, that was thinking that he should bite anyone without concequences. This is my opinion, and I wanted to share it because most people on this channel are with a completely different viewpoint, so I think there is a value to see my different perspective. Dont take it personal, youre cool.