Creating a leather glove pattern part 1: The trank
Vložit
- čas přidán 11. 09. 2024
- This is the first of three videos about creating a leather pattern for a pair of gloves. I have divided the process into three parts and I describe in detail how I create my glove patterns. This video covers the trank, this is the bit that covers most of your hand. The second video creates the thumb piece and the third video looks at creating the fourchette, the bit that goes down between the sides of the fingers. The videos will be released weekly.
This is not a quick process. It is really important to take accurate measurements and take the time to draft your pattern. Whether you are making a pair of gloves for yourself or for a friend I would always advise making a mock up of the gloves to check for fit first. Always take the measurements yourself whenever possible. I would also advise using a leather that is similar to that you plan to use on the gloves. I like using lamb nappa for my gloves.
Note for when you reach 17min and 55seconds in the video: I mention 0.65cm and I forgot to explain how I reached that measurement. I am very sorry about this. My index finger has a depth of 1.3cm, half of which is 0.65cm. The 0.65cm is then added on so that when the pattern as opened out the depth will be 1.3cm against the index finger. (The glove folds around the finger at the trank. At 17min 55secs, if you look at the paper pattern you will see I've drawn an extra line to the left of the index finger and made a mark with an additional vertical line by my fifth finger. As there is no fourchette on the outer index or fifth finger we need to accommodate the depth of the finger within the pattern and then distribute the remaining excess as explained in the video. Once I started to work out how to distribute the excess I wanted to add an allowance that balanced the pattern adding a similar allowance to all fingers, so added the same figure to the fifth finger too.
If you have larger hands you may find it helpful to add additional length to the fingers to accommodate the depth of the finger. For example, when I reviewed my mock up pair and pattern this was an additional 0.6cm to my middle and fourth finger. When drafting your pattern make sure you push right down into the base of the finger webbing as this can also affect the length of the finger. For example, if too shallow when drafting, the finger will feel too short. I did end up moving the base of my fingers down a few millimetres when I reviewed the pattern too. (You can always trim an excess when fitting and making the glove, but can't you add it on).
After creating the pattern, the next set of videos will focus on how to cut out and construct the gloves by hand stitching them together. I will show you my tips and tricks to make the construction easier.
Thank you for watching. I run online and face to face glove making workshops, details on my website thesmartstitcher.co.uk
Happy pattern drafting.
I've been searching for a glove tutorial for MONTHS and finally found this. This is awesome thanks for the great videos
Thank you so much! You are a blessing. I was looking for a glove pattern drafting tutorial and I was not able to find it anywhere until I've found your videos. It was even more difficult trying to find it in my mother language...
This video series is akin to an answered prayer. When I moved abroad I brought with me a large piece of kangaroo leather, just in case the crafting itch decides to come back. It just did and lo and behold, there is a freshly baked world class tutorial series waiting for me on youtube. Thank you.
Thank you for your kind words. Happy sewing!
Amazing 😍
This is the best tutorial I have seen. Thank you.
Thank you
Absolutely incredible, hats off to you Elizabeth!!
Thank you for taking time to post this.
Wow! this is the most in - depth tutorial of leather glove making I have seen from youtube so far. Thank you for making this. It is very comprehensive and has tons of information. I have a question, I see some glovemaking video on youtube put a small square patch of leather in between the seam of the four fingers. Do you happen to know the purpose of that?
Thank you for your kind words. There are different styles of fourchette that go in between the fingers. There is a style of fourchette that has a diamond/square shape inserted at the base of the fingers. This shape is known as a 'quirk'. It is a nice style detail and I have also found it useful when someone has larger hands as it can help add depth to the fingers. I am planning a video on the fourchette styles soon and will cover this detail then too.
Hi, I've been following your instructions, as my hands do not seem to fit standard sizing, however at @17:55, where did the 0.65 come from. as continuing with that number it does not work for my hands, and I get an odd distribution (closed and open on both my hands is 19cm)
Hello. Thank you for spotting this and taking the time to ask the question. I can apologise for this ommission as I've not explained it in the video. The 0.65cm allows for the depth of the finger. At 17:55 if you look at the paper pattern you will see I've drawn an extra line to the left of the index finger and made a mark with an additional vertical line by my fifth finger. As there is no fourchette on the outer index or fifth finger we need to accommodate the depth of the finger within the pattern and then distribute the remaining excess as explained in the video. Once I started to work out how to distribute the excess I wanted to add an allowance that balanced the pattern, adding a similar allowance to all fingers. I will add this explanation to the description. Thanks again.
@@ElizabethBondTheSmartStitcher Thanks, sorry it took me awhile to answer, not had a chance until today to look at the explanation you gave. I do get the reason for the distribution, but I do not see why you use 0.65 on the left and on the index finger side. Where did you calculate the 0.65 from? My difference is 3.2cm so 1.6cm each side, so using 0.65 would not work. so far you not given how you got the measurement, but why. I see some calculations under the CM on the left. and I feel it has to do with the circumference of the index finger (7) and the measured number (2.2) on the index finger, but where does the 1.2cm come from, that makes up the 5.6cm
Hello. I measured the depth of my index finger which was 1.3cm and divided it by two to give me 0.65cm. As the glove folds around the index finger and there is no fourchette, the depth has to be accommodated, as well as the width of the finger. When the pattern is opened out this will give a depth of 1.3cm against the index finger. If I did not halve the measurement and just added 1.3cm on to the index finger I would end up with a depth of 2.6cm, which would make the index finger rather large. I used the same measurement on the fifth finger as I measured again (I have chunky fingers) and wanted to help keep everything in proportion when the excess is distributed.
@@ElizabethBondTheSmartStitcher Thank you! Now it makes sense. I have weird square fingers as my width is 2.2 and my side profile 1.8, hence I couldn't get it to fit right. Time for a redraw.
Good, I am glad to have been able to help. Good luck with the redrawing and sewing.
I saw this video and immediately subscribed
Hi there! Question at 19:18. You say you should add .6 to index and pinky finger, but then you add .65 to the index and only .6 to the pinky. Should this be the .65 (half of the index depth) on both of these two fingers? Also at 22:41 you've added some +'s that weren't previously explained. Are these the marks for the bottom of the knuckle like explained at 9:12? You're making these on the new lines for the fingers and moving them down a centimeter just to have excess with stitching together? Edit: I think the first set of +'s are for palm of the hand and the lower set is for the back? Thank you for color coding everything by the way!
Furthur down the series, it wasn't mentioned how the shape of the thumb template is supposed to be drawn so that it will fit the shape of the thumb hole on the trank, i am having trouble on this part and would appreciate if i could get some help
ah sorry, when you say depth of the index finger where exactly do you mean, like the palm down width of my index finger?
If you look at the side of your hand, looking at the index finger side, I'm referring to the measurement of the side of the finger, from the top of the finger/back of the hand to the palm/bottom of the finger. If I have understood you I think you have described this in your question.
great tutorial. this is exactly what i needed
I'm making my first pair of gloves and this video is just perfect for learning: visual, clear, and to the point.
A question: is there a rule of thumb for adding to measurements if using a liner (thin merino wool in this case)? Or is it better to do the measurements with the liner on if it is available?
I've had limited success with linings but would always do a sample to help me work out the allowances. With a thin lining you may find you don't need to add much to the leather but this may vary with a thicker lining.
17:53 where do the 0.65 come from?
Thanks
I don't understand where the 0.65 measurement comes from at 17.47 minutes. Please advise.
Hello Dave,
I measured the depth of my index finger which was 1.3cm and divided it by two to give me 0.65cm. As the glove folds around the index finger and there is no fourchette, the depth has to be accommodated, as well as the width of the finger. When the pattern is opened out this will give a depth of 1.3cm against the index finger. If I did not halve the measurement and just added 1.3cm on to the index finger I would end up with a depth of 2.6cm, which would make the index finger rather large. I used the same measurement on the fifth finger as I measured again (I have chunky fingers) and wanted to help keep everything in proportion when the excess is distributed.
@@ElizabethBondTheSmartStitcher Hi Elizabeth can u explain what mean depth ? how i can measure propertly , i not understand it rigth, thank u in advance !!!
@@marufkilichev98 When making the glove pattern we need to make sure the glove fits around the whole hand and we are not just taking the flat measurement of one side of the hand and then doubling it. The depth I refer to is the measurement looking at the side of the finger (both the index finger and the little finger). We need to add this measurement into our trank pattern so that the glove pattern is balanced, and does not have an oversized index or fifth finger. At the index finger, the leather folds around the hand, and the fifth finger has the outside seam. There are fourchettes on the other fingers but not these two points. I have made another tutorial that explains this in a bit more depth czcams.com/video/ymNif6c4GGE/video.html the title is Glove Making FAQ 1: Adding depth to the trank.
@@ElizabethBondTheSmartStitcher thank u so much, i will check it , i let u know, have a wonderful day
By the time.she makes her draws i would have made it just measure them knuckles right looks like math class
Were are you getting that .65 number from at 17:54?
She explained this omission in a comment below and in the title description.
Здравствуйте Елизабет,, где вы взяли 0,65 см.
im glad u using metric system thank you :D
Only measure in burgers per hour
Спасибо большое..👌💜
Great video but is this really necessary to do all of these crazy calculations when i can just trace the shape of my fingers to a paper and add seam allowence ?😅😅😅
It looks so difficult😭
It depends on the style of glove you wish to make. This method gives a more fitted version working off the measurements of the hand and accounting for the depth of the hand. You have to factor in any stretch of the leather/fabric you plan to use as you want to get the glove on and off the hand. There are other methods to draw out your pattern and sometimes you need a start point to work out what works for you. Give drawing round your hand and adding a seam allowance a go. Make a mock up as it sounds a good place to start. Good luck with your sewing.
thank you very much teacher
i am beginner
Thank you. You are very welcome. More to come over the next few weeks.
dude, where the hell did you get that 0.65 cm from!? this explanation is hard to follow because there are steps skipped. (time stamp 17:53)
if you add together the final finger measurements circled (time stamp 19:33) and double them to get your hand circumference, you get 21.3 cm, which is smaller than your flat hand measurement.
you're going to get a lot of people very agitated when they follow your pattern and end up with gloves that don't fit.
Hi Chris,
My apologies. I realised I edited the wrong bit out so put an explanation of the 0.65cm in the video description at that time stamp. This is the explanation for when you reach 17min and 55seconds in the video: I mention 0.65cm and I forgot to explain how I reached that measurement. My index finger has a depth of 1.3cm, half of which is 0.65cm. The 0.65cm is then added on so that when the pattern as opened out the depth will be 1.3cm against the index finger. (The glove folds around the finger at the trank. At 17min 55secs, if you look at the paper pattern you will see I've drawn an extra line to the left of the index finger and made a mark with an additional vertical line by my fifth finger. As there is no fourchette on the outer index or fifth finger we need to accommodate the depth of the finger within the pattern and then distribute the remaining excess as explained in the video. Once I started to work out how to distribute the excess I wanted to add an allowance that balanced the pattern adding a similar allowance to all fingers, so added the same figure to the fifth finger too.