Video is filled with common sense basics that often get overlooked by beginners and (fast moving) experts alike. Much appreciated, and the running "tips" commentary (without annoying techno music in the background) was extra nice.
Seems good, and fairly thorough. The only thing I would say is that you forgot to mention torquing the caliper bolts to the correct torque spec, and possibly adding some thread locker paste to the bolts as they're going to be prone to vibrations so wouldn't want them to work loose!
I’ve been a qualified mechanic & performance specialist for 14 years. You don’t need to worry about thread locker on any bolts around the braking system, if you look at their washers on the bolt you will see they are grooved, these are vibration proof washers. I’ve been doing this long enough to not worry about torque specs on items like this. How tight it felt undoing the bolt, do the same type of tension when doing it back up. If you’re unsure, then use the torque spec
I am trying to change pads on my '20 SQ5 and am unable to slide the pads into position. Not aure what to do. Any advice? I can't get them to slidein with out taking out the anti-rattle clips.
Great video just did mine using your video. Question is there only one brake wear sensor on the front ? Job was much more involved compared to my 996 Porsche. Rather fiddle to be honest but got it done. Caliper hardware was the most difficult but once I figured it out the other side was a breeze relatively speaking.
No need to bleed, because you haven’t let any air into the system you are all good. By opening the nipple to push the piston back it is essentially bleeding it anyway
@@EAPerformance much appreciated. I actually followed you video to the tee. Used OEM pads (yea I know I’m just OCD like that). Zero issues. And car stops on a dime. Thanks again!
How hard is it to also do a clean job when doing this? Like thoroughly cleaning that super dirty caliper? Inside was like a disaster. Does it cost more to do a clean job? Or is it all the same?
HI, that is only for the rear brakes because they run an electric handbrake. The fronts dont have electric motors. But you will still need to push the piston back even after winding the motor back with your scan tool, so the bleed method is still needed.
Never ever do this on an ABS car!! It’s bad practice. If you have a chance to extract old deteriorated fluid, do it. The worst section of fluid is going to be at the caliper
@@EAPerformance I wonder why the engineers over at Audi decided to not include that in the service manuals. They just say retract the caliper, they even go as far as saying to extract brake fluid from the reservoir if it is full because it could overflow when you push the fluid back
@@joshsheinis5968 engineers are useless half the time. Look at some of the places they put components which should be simple to replace but then make you remove the entire engine to do so.
@@EAPerformance Yes, but, they were the ones that designed the components after all. As well as took the time to write out step by step repair/service manuals for dealerships to follow. So I would like to think they would not instruct you to do something that would damage the vehicle
Video is filled with common sense basics that often get overlooked by beginners and (fast moving) experts alike. Much appreciated, and the running "tips" commentary (without annoying techno music in the background) was extra nice.
Audi does say remove the 21mm bolts to remove the bracket and caliper instead of the special bolts to do a brake job. Good job
Seems good, and fairly thorough. The only thing I would say is that you forgot to mention torquing the caliper bolts to the correct torque spec, and possibly adding some thread locker paste to the bolts as they're going to be prone to vibrations so wouldn't want them to work loose!
I’ve been a qualified mechanic & performance specialist for 14 years. You don’t need to worry about thread locker on any bolts around the braking system, if you look at their washers on the bolt you will see they are grooved, these are vibration proof washers. I’ve been doing this long enough to not worry about torque specs on items like this. How tight it felt undoing the bolt, do the same type of tension when doing it back up. If you’re unsure, then use the torque spec
What's torque specs
I am trying to change pads on my '20 SQ5 and am unable to slide the pads into position. Not aure what to do. Any advice? I can't get them to slidein with out taking out the anti-rattle clips.
Great video just did mine using your video. Question is there only one brake wear sensor on the front ? Job was much more involved compared to my 996 Porsche. Rather fiddle to be honest but got it done. Caliper hardware was the most difficult but once I figured it out the other side was a breeze relatively speaking.
thanks for this. need to do my brakes and nervous but will be rewarding
Love this. But do you have to bleed the calipers once you are all done? Planning to do this next weekend on my S5
No need to bleed, because you haven’t let any air into the system you are all good. By opening the nipple to push the piston back it is essentially bleeding it anyway
@@EAPerformance much appreciated. I actually followed you video to the tee. Used OEM pads (yea I know I’m just OCD like that). Zero issues. And car stops on a dime. Thanks again!
How hard is it to also do a clean job when doing this? Like thoroughly cleaning that super dirty caliper? Inside was like a disaster. Does it cost more to do a clean job? Or is it all the same?
Where is the parts list?
you video volume is messed up.
What type, Brand of front rotors are those??
Did you guys torqued the bolts?
hello. great video breaking down step by step. does this process also apply for a 22 s5 Sportback?
Yes it does
Didn't need to use brake cleaner on new rotors? Edit- Ahh I see you did mention it at the very end of the video.
instead of bleeding the brakes , can i use obdeleven to open the calipers and close them once the new parts are in ? Cheers
HI, that is only for the rear brakes because they run an electric handbrake. The fronts dont have electric motors.
But you will still need to push the piston back even after winding the motor back with your scan tool, so the bleed method is still needed.
May i know brake pad model and part number along with the rotor tks
Is this the same process for an 18 plate A4 Avant?
Yes exactly same process
Do you have any break replacements videos for 2021 audi s5 b9.5?
If i get one in i will make one
Interesting… In the Audi manual they instruct you to retract the caliper and push the fluid back into the reservoir
Never ever do this on an ABS car!! It’s bad practice.
If you have a chance to extract old deteriorated fluid, do it.
The worst section of fluid is going to be at the caliper
@@EAPerformance I wonder why the engineers over at Audi decided to not include that in the service manuals. They just say retract the caliper, they even go as far as saying to extract brake fluid from the reservoir if it is full because it could overflow when you push the fluid back
@@joshsheinis5968 engineers are useless half the time. Look at some of the places they put components which should be simple to replace but then make you remove the entire engine to do so.
@@EAPerformance Yes, but, they were the ones that designed the components after all. As well as took the time to write out step by step repair/service manuals for dealerships to follow. So I would like to think they would not instruct you to do something that would damage the vehicle