REVISIT - FLUKE 73 MULTIMETER
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- čas přidán 26. 08. 2024
- Hi, in this REVISIT video I take another look at the FLUKE 73 MULTIMETER which reads 9V DC as 3000V DC which I failed to fix on the 1st video. Now after reading all the comments, let's see if it can be fixed.
Remember that this is just for entertainment and I am not an expert in these repairs. The processes in the video may not be the best way, the correct way or the safest way to fix these things. I do love fault finding and trying to fix broken things, so I hope that comes across in this 'Trying to FIX' series. Many thanks, Vince.
Vince never backs downs and won't let a broken thing defeat him.
He either fixes it or break it beyond repair
Vince be awsome
"I know that battery is dead, because I did the tongue test earlier" 🤣. I'm glad its not just me who tests batteries like that!
Weak battery = MEH, Fully Charged = YIKES
I do that too! 😂
Awesome!!! Hard to believe it ended up a broken trace, but sometimes they are hard to spot! The Fluke is definitely a better meter!
I agree mate it's amazing how awkward they are sometimes to spot! So glad we have a great community here, and even though a lot of us have a background in electrical work we watch anyway for the great content and to help each other out
Am I the only one that gets excited when a revisit notification appears? Splendid find Vince, and well done on the comments Vince community.
not going to lie I smiled a little bit from your excitement of it getting working good job man
Well done Vince. Never give in never surrender.
So resilient.. one of the very best channels.. inspired
When Vince gets 1 million Subs the day should be declared an English Bank Holiday!
Good for you, Vince. It all depends on what we take for assumption. Reverse logic is also good. Great video. Glad you found the fault.👍👍👍👍
Loved this revisit - impressive community effort
Vince - really great watching you re-visit something because you won't be beaten. Shows what perseverence and slogging through the detective work can do. Very well done and a massive thumbs up. Really love the fix-it videos. Thanks for doing them.
You are the Bob Ross of electronics!
Having the original issue not read when the battery was reversed made perfect sense when you found the corroded negative side trace. Very nice video.
Fascinating two videos! I simply wanted to see what my Fluke 73III looked like on the inside, so I got trapped in this rabbithole! Lol, this must be the most expensive 73III ever
It's sad that these videos don't get millions of views they're underrated and some of the best videos he has on his channel.
Fantastic!!!!! you now got yourself a great Multimeter that you can probably say you fixed yourself!
This is why I watch your videos. Watching your excitement once you get it fixed is like when I fix something in broken code.
Yay another repair channel, there aren’t many of us out there ! I’m impressed with your sub count, well done !
Congratulations Vince !
Also, sometimes you need to take a break and walk away from something for a bit in order to come back with new energy or a new perspective. :)
Awesome fantastic video. Love ur chnl. I have this for about a decade now and its been working great ever since. I recommend it to anyone.
I remember when you were at around 45k subscribers and now you're well on your way to 1 million. It's great to see how much your skills have improved and how you're fixing things more often than not. And as always, great job on this one!
The speed of the buzzer on continuity mode actually has a lot to do with the quality of the probes (like what metal they're made of). You should try swapping the probes around and see if it makes a difference.
I have a Fluke 73 and the continuity speed on the video is comparable to the one I have. I think the Fluke 73 is aimed more at industrial electricians more than electronics and the speed of it is ample for us sparkies. 👍
Quentin you have hit it on the head.. 100% correct
That is just amazing, i little think, a big problem, nice work, and thank to all helping comments.
That was excellent! Well done to everyone that helped point you in the right direction.
I'm very happy this got fixed.
Nice work ! I also have a Fluke 73 III.
Glad you figured it out. Well deserved victory.
Ahh, the 9-volt battery tongue test. I use it often.
To get into the diode test function you need to press the yellow button in the center of the dial, then the meter will show the junction voltage. Also to test the fuses you don't need to open the case. Simply put the meter in resistance measurement, connect the red lead to either the 10 A or the 300mA sockets both should read very near to zero ohms. If not then you know that the appropriate fuse is blown.
Edit: Also, if the meter goes to sleep (it was left on and turned it's self off), it is not needed to twist the dial to the off position and back to the desired measurement. All that is needed to turn it back on is to press the yellow button in the center of the dial.
I enjoyed your tenacity in this repair. Great feeling when you fix something after putting so much effort into it.
I can’t recommend tongue test with the 3000 volt battery 🔋
Nice video. Thank you. Your patience is simply wow
the power of the comment section!
My favourite channel at the minute, not only do you learn a lot from the vids, you also learn a lot from the community & comments 👍
I’m in awe of your trouble shooting skills, especially when you say things like you’ve never used your multimeter to read amperage. I’ve been watching you for a short time and thought you were an electronics expert due to your high success rate and the way you move around a circuit board, but after hearing several comments you made it leads me to think you may not have had formal training, which would be even more impressive. I have trained for 4 years as an electronics technician and find your troubleshooting skills easily surpass mine. I am very entertained watching you and also enjoy your accent.
Not sure if you’ve ever done this because I haven’t watched all of your videos yet, but I would enjoy hearing about how you learned to be such a good troubleshooter.
Very good job, Stop for a while and think about it, YOU FIXED it.
Your patience and good attitude and love for what you do that makes that things work. Congrats mate
Yes! A revisit and better: a fix. Great! You can feel his mood everytime!
Good work. Sometimes persistance pays off.
wel done Vince so sorry i was wrong with my suggestion re voltage reference ...... my bad . I'm stoked that you got it fixed though.
Great that you get it working basicly without needed parts! :)
To do current measure 1 lead go's to A port and second lead cos to COM port. Warning! After that you have "jumper wire" in your hand (if those fuses inside are ok), even when the switch is set to OFF position.
When measure current you set this meter in series to the circuit you want to measure.
Example, if you want measure current drain from car battery. Set one lead to 10A port second lead to Com port.
Either take out positive or negative lead and hook this between the battery and the car cable(series connection).
Another one saved from the landfill. Those meters are well designed as you can hold the meter and select modes with one hand. Well done Vince.
Thank you. The exact same thing was wrong with mine and I saved it because of your video! Thanks.
You make me so happy. Nice fix sir!
Fantastic video as always Vince and so glad the revisit got this up and running. Sometimes a fresh pair of eyes is all it needs
Thank you for revisiting this Fluke. It is very rewarding to see that you fixed it with the help of the community. Thumbs up to all of us!
This HAD to be still a working meter with something broke in it, because it was doing just fine on resistors. I was also distracted from the real issue. Somebody else cleaned it already. If that hadn't been done, you, and us viewers would have zoomed right in on that trace that was eaten away by a blob of electrolyte.
Anyhow, indeed, a ground fault can easily cause these kinds of problems. A reference voltage might be higher than it should because of a missing path to ground for a voltage dividing series resistor network. A higher reference would then make it seem that the power supply battery looks empty and missing resistors to ground can also raise the measured voltage significantly.
A bit weird that your meter showed a lesser than 3000V when connecting the battery the right way round and it gone OL when the battery was connected backwards. In that case, on a good meter, the indicated voltage would go negative, instead of going up. Here, again, some disconnected or floating grounds could cause that mirrored behavior.
I'm still a bit disappointed that you didn't short the leads before you fixed it. I'm still curious what it would have shown with shorted leads. But then again... who would want to short some leads that have 3000V on them, according to a Fluke multimeter...
Thats a great feeling when you find the problem and fix it!! Thats awesome bro congrats!! Love watching your videos!!
For removing solder mask in very small areas, my favorite tool is a nice large sized sewing needle. You want a thick one so it doesn't bend, with a reasonably fine point but it doesn't have to be super sharp as solder mask isn't very hard. Hold on to it as close to the point as practical and scrape side to side, don't push it in or it will slip.
You can also just use tweezers but I get nervous using my nice tweezers for stuff like that.
Fiberglass pencils are nice for larger areas but it can be hard to see exactly where you're removing material.
The problem with blades is that it's hard to avoid going right through the solder mask into the copper and then if you go even further you hit the PCB material which will dull your blade because it is quite hard.
Regardless of which of the above tools you use, I like to spray off with canned air before I get anything wet with flux just to remove the scraped-off solder mask and any metal I may have picked up.
Well Done Vince and the My Mate Vince Troops. Mick👍🍻
I love your fix it videos.
I like the way , you don’t give up!
you know what am so excited to see this thing work. vince why not use the fluke in another repair see how it performs when repairing something. that will look good in another video!!
I realy like your videos, is always nice to check if you got something to fix, mainly if they are electronics videos. I was raised opening things and trying to fix them and today electronics is my hobby! Great videos!
Bad traces, one of the simplest yet most annoying faults there is! Now that you have a Fluke Meter, now you can no longer say you're not a professional! Great fix as always!
When doing the amperage test, remember to do it in series, not parallel to the gadget used.
Without an actual "consuming" device you might blow your freshly repaired multimeter. (or at least the fuse)
Usually pops the 11A fuse. Trust me, I've done it ;)
Well done, your perseverance paid off handsome !
Big thumbs up !
>
Congratulations Vince! I am glad that you made it, and thanks to you I have learnt how to fix the broken trace from this video.
Well done Vince.
Nice fix ...I actually cheered when it worked ... nice job...the slight delay in the continuity test is normal for the 73 series..mine is the same even with new genuine fluke test leads.
Awesome video, and Thank you for all of your great teachings+++
Congratz Vince!
Please use UV glases while using the UV lamp. Protect your eyes
I was keeping my fingers crossed for a revisit on this as I wasn't convinced it was the chip and reading through the comments is definitely an education for an electronics enthusiast like myself. Great content and great community...superb!
Just a tip, it's best to avoid heating and re-heating a joint like you did, trying to get the solder to look 'nice'. Partially re-heating pads like that puts a lot of stress on them and can give the solder odd properties, if you didn't get it all the way to its melting temperature.
You are best off prepping the joint as best you can, heating everything properly in one go, and not allowing any movement as it cools. Even if you've got a joint which looks like it has a bit too little solder, provided you can see a decent-sized bridge where the solder has 'wetted' both surfaces, you're best off leaving it alone.
I know it’s fairly old now but Loved this and the previous Video Vince & so glad you managed to find & fix the fault, I have the Mk II although it’s a bit battered now but was battered when my mate gave it to me, I have just ordered a new one as I feel the Fluke is a tad outdated now but will still keep the Fluke as a backup just in case!
Great job on this one, no question.....
The comment from Will, that you had the smiley face on, was right on.... I don't really know how this works, but I gave that comment a thumbs up, which, in my mind, I feel it's stupid to say the same thing.... If Will's comment gets 100 likes, I presume you notice that, and take it seriously....
I've had a couple of those broken. I never did get them 100% fixed. I got one to a point where it had some of the functions restored, but not all... And another one, where the selector wheel was pointing at the wrong thing, but it would work....
I love the Fluke meter... But I never really succeeded fixing one. Luckily I have a couple that work perfect, heh heh!
As we found out, the selector switch is never a bad place to start looking....
Those meters have such a hard life.... Mine is rocking around in my backpack all the time... it's 100F in my truck in the summer, it's -20F in the winter.... Then someone knocks your backpack off the desk you set it on... My poor meter. It just has a hard life.... I would get new leads for it right away also...
Anyways, now you can go to bed tonight feeling very smug.... You actually fixed one of those things..... Nice job Sir. Nice job.
Well done Vince, after watching the original video I honestly thought you gave up with the Fluke, how wrong I was, glad you fixed it bud..!
Great job on the fix and Great Job to the community on this one :)
Hi, hope you’re well. Very good video. Been in this trade for over 25 years and would have done it exactly the same.
Great repair and nice that meter work like it should! Another device saved to live it's life and save environment! Thank you. 👍
Wow. I liked that the "community list" effect worked by sending you in a right direction.
Awesome! Flukes are a bit slow on continuity, but they're great meters. And if you don't let batteries leak in them, they last _forever_.
Don't touch both ends with your fingers when measuring a high resistance. Body resistance can be in the tens or hundreds of kiloohms so that can throw it off!
Fantastic, good job sir, I have the same fluke meter and never had a problem with it, the slight delay in continuity is normal, the only think that I can say negatively about it.
Fun story as a student I couldn't afford a fluke meter (was using a very cheap thing that did the job), one day walking past cash generator and saw the FLUKE 3 meter in the window for £15 ......... I assumed that the price label was missing another 1 in front of the 15 but after inquiring I got it for £15 that was back around 1999/2000 still use it to this day.
Enjoy the repaired meter its certainly a good one.
Great job Vince,
Well done for sticking with it.
It's such a great feeling when most people would have tried a couple of things then through it in the Bin, such a throw away nation only because a lot of people cannot be ass to even give a go,
I am not electronically knowledgeable` and I know not what to touch learnt my lesson a few times, but I've fixed washing machines leaned what a capacitor does in washing machine the hard way lol- repaired tv back lights phones laptop screens,
I even learnt to repair a car head gasket by understanding how to do one on a 3hp lawn mower,
Most stuff I learned from watching CZcams its Brilliant I learn better by watching not so much reading how to repair,
I have some millimetres myself that need looking into must be time to get them out, one is suffering from the zebra strip screen is struggling to show, I tried rubbing carbon pencil on it, worked a little better but not good enough,
Anyway, Great job, video`s like this only inspires others to not give up.
Iam not sure on this but you might need to recalibrate your fluke after the repair, and depending where you place your probes on the resister if not evenly apart may affect the reading` But don`t quote me on that,
As a tech for 45 years that was a good find. Flukes are fantastic. I still use 77 I bought 35 years ago. It replaced a Flue 72 I lost. I also have a few of the cheaper smaller Flukes (21 I think was the number) they were full auto, only had an off and on switch.
Hi Vince. So glad you found to a fault ... Well done and thanks again for taking it and giving it a try, very entertaining. ... Lee
Input helps a lot. Specially when I'm getting frustrated or losing hope.
Great Vid. I re-watched the first vid again first so I could be prepared for the fix.
I was waiting for you to bring the component tester out to compare resistor & diode readings.
Fantastic video Vince! It is a joy to watch your reaction when things suddenly click into place! It is pure, genuine, and oh so contagious. 😃 I'm current sitting alone in my flat, grinning like an idiot, just at the thought of it. 😁 Don't ever change Vince!
In order to measure current (Amps) you need to:
1. Interrupt the circuit you are measuring by cutting a wire or a trace or partially desoldering some kind of a component which is in circuit. If this is not desirable, but you still want to measure current you can buy a "clamp meter" (like UT210e).
2. Leave the black multimeter lead connected to COM and connect red one to 10A or (300)mA socket. You need to make sure that the current you are going to measure is not going to exceed the rating on the socket, otherwise you can damage your multimeter. If unsure - always select a larger rating (i.e. 10A). This shorts the leads (!) and can be used to complete the circuit (see below), but you obviously shouldn't measure voltage or resistance in this lead configuration.
3. Select the appropriate measuring mode (A or mA)
4. Use your multimeter leads to complete the circuit so the electricity will flow through your multimeter (from one lead to a multimeter body and through another lead) and observe measured value on the screen.
What if 10A is not enough? You can always buy a multimeter rated for more amps (eg. 20A), but really you want to use clamp meter for that. They are usually rated in hundreds of amps. If you are fixing cars, it might be worth the investment (cars have 12V, but many amps), but in general for the stuff you do in the channel 10A is probably enough. If you are buying a clamp meter, make sure to buy ones which can measure DC, not all of them can!
My Mate Vince for the win! With a great assist by others in the comments.
Exactly right about the continuity beeps. Some meters have a slight delay and some can even be adjusted. Being a Fluke I'd think it's somewhat likely that it has an option to be more sensitive.
I too said YES! Nice job.
Excelent! so the problem was not that hard, Great Job Vince!
Great result
Can't wait for this 😁
Great video Vince! love your content keep up the good work.
f-n amazing glad its all good again.
Excellent fault finding, wish I was as good.
Would've bet on that fluke chip gone bad. Nice to see it was a broken trace.
Well.... that was a fluke... :P haha, nice one Vince, it always feels great when you finally solve something. It's why I love technology so much.
Great! Good job. May I suggest to use flux when soldering? Remember the gold rule: "Flux is your friend: always". Regards from Italy.
I completely agree. Use flux before soldering. Flux makes it flow well and looks better afterwards.
18:30 Your meter appears to be measuring the 220K in parallel with the resistance of your body, since you are touching the probes.
To measure current Vince you have to have the meter inline in the circuit, so the power flows through the meter, that’s why it’s fused, if you don’t know roughly how much current is flowing in the circuit you will blow the meter.
neat fix :) every fluke meter I've ever used has slow response on the continuity buzzer (including my 70 series) I think it's just how they are
I always love it when Vince yells out “Yessss!” when the thing works. I also do a fist pump at the same time 😂
Great video, Vince
Well done again, great!
Well done! 👍🏻
Great detective work! Nice to see that Fluke 73-III rescued and back to good use. These multimeters are so incredibly solid. I bought mine used off of eBay back in 2009 for $51 USD. The yellow casing was all scuffed up and sorry looking, but the DMM itself looked perfectly fine. And indeed it turned out to be functioning well, acting in good calibration. The previous owner's 9V battery is still in place, still delivering good power. Sure there are newer models around that are more capable, but this one is perfectly suitable for hobbyist electronic work. I wonder if the build quality is better than what you get in the latest 117 / 177 / 179 models.
How come I’ve been on youtube (and making repair videos myself) for a few years, and I only just found your channel !
Im so damn happy you did find a solution on this one! So mutsh work and finally a reward! Thank you!
Good job ! Vince