When You Should Caulk Between the Base and Wood Floor HD 1080p
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- čas přidán 16. 04. 2021
- It is rare that I caulk this area, but in this video I will cover situations where it may be necessary to caulk between the bottom of the base and your wood flooring to fix unsightly transitions. Caulking is a simple solution to this problem.
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This video is solid gold. I used this method and had great results. Thank you for the advice!
This video is ridiculously helpful!! Thank you so much for posting!
I’m so happy to be watching . My floor where done and the The cracks are bad between the floor and the baseboard is so I’m happy that I seen this video so now I’m going to go and try to find the color to my floor and learn how to do this kind of work because I don’t want the little bugs coming in anymore
I was totally on my way to go buy white caulk, decided to look up a video to see how people did it and saw you using the brown. Thanks for the tip it looks way better!
My pleasure, I'm glad it worked out!
Me too. I’m sitting in Home Depot parking lot right now
@@leele2579 hahaha so great :)
Thanks for the idea of matching the floors rather than the baseboards! Glad you really hammered home how important taping and prep is-I know it but still need to be told repeatedly to get me to do it right haha! I am curious about maintenance, cleaning, and how often it might need to be redone.
I’ll also say that most of what I’ve heard and read is to leave the baseboards attached when refinishing if they’ve been painted a few times. Removing generally causes more damage to walls than it’s worth to remove them….
The maintenance is tricky as, to be honest, caulk can get dirty over time. This is why I do not recommend caulking the baseboard to the floor in most circumstances.
As for the the second point, as much as you need to be careful about removal of the base before refinishing the floors, I personally think it's a better idea. I know that putting it back on requires putty and caulking, but most flooring refinishers sand into the bottom of the base causing the problem I note in the video. I am more concerned about the final look, so, to me, pulling the base before the floors are done looks the best in the end.
Thanks for the comments!
The tape is absolutely critical. I used to think I could just run a bead and form with my finger nice and easy without tape but calk gets messy FAST, the tape is a must. Great video!
I just used the white on a grey floor and it looked like trash. I had the thought in the middle of the night to match with grey caulking. This really helped me. Thanks!
Bout to do the same thing. Glad I found this
Thank you for making this video! It is very helpful.
My pleasure, thanks for the comment!
Great video and great tip on matching the caulk with the floor. I have quite a bit of a gap in some places between the skirting board and the floor (over 2 mm). Woudl you still recommend using a caulk that matches the floor? Or would white be better in this instance?
Recently moved into a newly built apartment - the apartment refused to asked but I'm glad he didn't; they would have used the white caulk. Thanks for this fantastic idea
My pleasure, thanks for the feedback!
Omg ty for this - my little silverfish friends loved chilling under the baseboard!!
awsome, i just put in tile flooring where there was carpet, there is a gap between the base board and the tiles, this will help so much in sealing it
Excellent brother!
Love that you didn't use white for these. Question: Our bathroom floor has white tiles with smaller brown accent tiles and white base board, so against the base board are two colors. What would you recommend? The grout used for the tiling is tan and they left some extra sanded tan grout here for me. Would that work, I wonder? The wall color is a tan and we also need caulk on top of the base board. I assume a tan caulk would be the way to go there.
When I saw this I thought "ugh, I hate caulk between baseboards & the floor" but assumed you were going with white. I'd rather have a big ol' gap than that and I agree with you that it looks tacky. I worked on a job this year with another painter that did that very thing. Great idea with the colored caulk but the baseboard should have been removed for the floor re-finish really. Nice work Dave 👍
Thanks for the comment! I personally hate caulking these areas period, but sometimes you run across something like this that just needs that extra touch.
Agree with the removal of the base. I would think it would be easier for the floor finishers to remove them, but...flooring is not my forte ;-)
Yeah that's cool there's not caulking on the floor but now you have a baseboard that looks kind of wavy on the bottom because with dark colored cock you can see where they grinded and it's not a straight line and that kind of looks tacky to me
I do like the tape though
Nice work Dave.
Thanks!
Can I do the same with a vinyl fake wood flooring and a grey baseboard? There's a very small gap but I'd like to seal it to prevent dust or mold spores from entering an apartment.
I have dogs so we always have dog hair getting stuck in these crevices. This video solves that problem for us!
Does that gap occur because of half inch spacing for the flooring? my baseboard is only 9/16 inch and worry that it couldn't cover the gap of my laminate floor
Thank you for your video. Unfortunately, the guy that installed my vinyl flooring did a lousy job caulking and I will have to try to fix. He left a groove and also, excess caulk on my flooring. I called him to come back and fix but, again, unfortunately, had already paid him and he was off snowmobiling in the UP. Never came back, saw him in town once said he hadn't forgotten about me... I'm a 71 year old widow with a herniated disk. Last thing I wanted to do is to get down on my hands and knees scraping the crumbs out of the grooves he left.
That guy was a ****! "If you want something done right..." hahahaa Glad it worked out for you.
Funny how different preferences are. I prefer the caulk to match the baseboards. Harder to do well, but if done correctly, it looks like the baseboards are growing right out of the floor.
Visually, I totally get the look you going for, looks super clean when it's a true 90 degree.
This is why I almost never caulk the bottom of the base. I think it just looks cleaner, most of the time, when left alone, even if the floor and base are not super tight to each other.
Thanks for the comment!
Exactly I will leave it too. When putting up the baseboard,you can push it down on to the floor, reducing the gaps although I don't know if it is right or wrong in terms of flexibility required.
Anyway we did our flooring recently and we removed the baseboards and then laid the floors. We were fully re decorating the rooms. The walls were painted by removing baseboards and new baseboards were given 2 coats of primer and paint each. Our floor boards were way too much uneven. We used quick step 7mm thick laminate boards. The flooring guy suggested quick step 5mm foam underlay to cover the unevenness. So when we put back the baseboards, we push them down a little bit, pressing down on spongy underlay to reduce the gaps. Now we have just about 1mm gaps at some places plus it feels nice to walk on this floor than a hard floor. Well I know it is selective and it may not be the choice of others. It is just another way to reduce the gaps.
Hi, what kind of caulk, what brand did you use?
I guess maybe separate question- but do you caulk between the tiles and skirting (or floorboards and skirting) within the pantry to prevent ants etc coming in if accidentally drop food etc.?
you the man Dave
Appreciate the comment!
I know this is a really generic question but how soon after painting can you use this Type of painter's tape? Without risking accidentally pulling up paint with it ?
what is the name of that product?
Thanks!
I’m sad that you filmed vertically but thanks for the wood color idea.
I have life proof vinyl plank flooring and the color is ocala oak. I have no idea what color I should use! If it’s not too much trouble, do you have any suggestions?
It’s no problem, but I would need to see the flooring color in person. I go by the Home Depot often, so if you can wait a couple of days?
Otherwise, from what I can see in a photo, a light gray caulk should work (but that’s also assuming the photo is a true representation of the vinyl color).
Anyway, I could have a suggestion by Saturday morning.
Thanks!
What color caulk did you use?
I wish that flooring companies should have created a small 4 to 5 mm thick and may be 8 to 10mm wide mdf strip, simmilar to the 45° mdf beading they use and it should go striaght on the skirting, taking away only 4-5mm of room space. As it will be of same color as floor, it will look nice. That will avoid the home owner, who don't want 10 to 15mm 45° beadiing from usung silicone caulk. I think flooring companies can do various widths for example 6mm, 7mm 8mm etc and one can then choose based on the biggest size gap. Even thickness can be reduced down to 2 to 3mm based on practicality. What you guys think about this?
BTW: the suggestion above with reduced thickness is for floors where skirting was installed later, just like this video. In the other case where floor is laid without removing the skirting board, you can't avoid the 45° mdf bead because installers leave large gaps.
I think it's a great idea!
Glad to know I'm not crazy for thinking the gap between baseboards and the floor looks terrible. New house, concrete floor, painted baseboards. Project time!
1/4 round or shoe molding.
Useful video, thanks! You say "caulk" funny but I'll get over it 😂
Thanks! You’re the second person to mention my pronunciation of the word caulk; guess I was really trying to make sure it didn’t sound like something else, which it’s actually supposed to! 😀
Thanks again for the feedback!
What caulking did you use?
I used two different brands as the floor colors were different; one was Big Stretch and the other was Dap's Dynaflex 230.
I used a silicone/latex or silicone/acrylic hybrid. I don't recommend a 100% silicone or a cheap, just Latex or acrylic caulk.
Good move with matching the floor rather then the trim
Was your caulk just 100% silicone? Have u thought of using adhesive like liquid nails [ once and forever ] to replace your silicone as Liq-nail will harden and adhere tight. Thus, thickened bleach gel + tooth-brushing can then be applied to remove the dirt or fungal mold grown on hardened liq-nails every 2 months or so if any. In many silicone cases, one needs to repeat, on top of cleaning, the 4-big-step job [remove, cleaning, caulking, refine ] once every 2,3 or 5 years depending on whether the sealing power of silicone remains.
I have seen on internet, numerous times that never ever use hard stuff between your walls and floors. This should always be flexible to accomodate the movement. This is why the floor layers always leave the gap and usually cover with mdf beading. In the above video, the skirting has been put after laying the floor and this skirting is acting as beading. The only problem in this scenario is the uneven bigger gaps because floors and wall are never true to the 100th of mm or thousands of an inch. Mdf beading matching to floor colour is another solution to cover these gaps and they are easy to apply, just a nailgun. They are also easy to clean and maintain and cheap to install. But the big but is that some people just don't like them because uf you have a piece of furniture and you want it to be squared to wall then you can't because 10mm of beading is on the floor.
So instead of the white being painted on the floor, the brown looks like its been painted on the baseboard.
Unfortunately. In my opinion, It's the lesser of two evils. I'd prefer to never have to caulk this area.
Will this cause the floor to buckle during temp chsnges?
The floor to buckle, from a line of caulk? I'm not sure I understand the question.
@@DaveMartin will the caulk prevent the flooring from expanding and contracting during weather changes?
@@bobbyl5585 Not likely. When you paint a house, say the trim, you will caulk, prime, and paint sealing the trim from the elements and the trim will still expand and contract with the changes.
If it's a free floating floor, and if it is going to expand and contract quit a bit, first, if you don't have to caulk to the floor, don't, but if you have to, I would recommend using a product like Big Stretch as it will expand up to 3x the original crack size.
Caulk cracks over time. Why not use white silicone? 🤔
The video explains the whole reason why I do not like using white caulk.
You are correct that a pure silicone, in this example, is probably a good idea. However most manufacturers do not make a variety of colors in a 100% silicone, hence you are at the mercy of what is available.
Thanks for the feedback!
Will clear caulk work better?
clear caulk does not solve the problem addressed in the video.
I get why people do it but over time looks pretty bad. The material traps dirt/ hair and difficult to clean. Is there a better solution?
Best case scenario is to never caulk these areas.
If your transition between the floor and bottom of the base or base shoe looks bad and you don’t like the idea of caulk, then the only solution is to replace the base or base shoe.
Just look up the tile sponge method, much better and cleaner look with no hassle of the prep with tape.
Personal preference but colored caulk should err on the side of being darker than the wood not lighter. Like grout with tile.
Taping on Both sides of the gap is the only way to go if you want a nice clean look...if you do taping only on one side of the gap it will look like a mess..Don't be lazy.
Use clear instead of white. Also film with your phone to the side. Not up and down
So I think you have misunderstood the point of the video; if you use clear caulk, it does not solve the problem I have posed.
As to your comment on the phone angle, yes, agreed that would have worked better.
Thanks!
I really hope you don't do any remodeling on handyman work. Clear wouldn't hide the gap.
bedbugs hiding places. gotta rid of them
Why not just use clear silicone caulk?
Clear caulk does not solve the problem I’m posing.
Pass I’ll be at my clients house all day masking lol no thx
I understand passing on this if the transition between the bottom of the base and the floor look just fine (as a matter of fact, I prefer not to caulk this area at all unless it doesn't look good).
But if you leave it just because it's a bit more work, I think overall, it just makes the job look unprofessional. In my opinion, it's things like this that make all the difference.
I also noticed the problem when I estimated the job and adjusted the bid accordingly.
Thanks for the comment!
You don’t pronounce the L in caulking. Like walk, talk, etc
Really? A pronunciation comment?
Dude, don't critique the host / expert's pronunciation on a video about painting baseboards. 😕