Just used the Smooth On FlexFoam-It 15. Fantastic stuff, and easy to use. 17 weight was used in the video, but Smooth On recommends the 15 weight for archery targets. Same stuff, but the 15 is a little more dense. The FlexFoam-It was very easy to use, and the sample kit size if perfect for one major repair. I did a 4" hole though the McKenzie black bear, and then cut out much of the outer portion around the hole. I let it sit overnight, and then it cleaned up pretty easy. It does not sand well, so i was a little more aggressive using a grinder with a flap disk. Painted it up, drew scoring rings with an old soldering iron, and painted it. Shot about 100 arrows today, and you not even know the target had been shot. Arrows pulled pretty easy with arrow lube. The 3d Country is great stuff as well, and you can not go wrong with either.
@@adamvisser9815 I never shoot broadheads at 3d targets, just tears em up too quick, and too costly for my liking. I use the Morell Yellow Jacket broadhead targets.
Along with the foams that you mentioned and tested, there are some other ways of making very durable repairs. First, strengthen the target before it is all shot up. Inject Great Stuff into all of the arrow holes and small voids. I can often inject 2 full cans into the kill zone of a deer sized target. Compress the foam by wrapping in plastic and then duct tape. Allow to dry a week or two, rasp smooth, burn in score rings and repaint. Second method is to pull out all of the shot up pieces. Then save the pieces and take additional material from a target that is beyond repair. Pack the pieces and even just crumbled target material into the shot out kill zone area. Wrap with plastic and tape and inject Great Stuff. You actually have to be careful not to overdue it or you will end up with a repair that is too tough and it will be difficult to remove arrows. The third method is my favorite. I live near Long Island sound and have access to marine buoys. Some are made out of really tough durable foam. I use a dry wall saw to cut a circular hole for a tight fit and then use Great Stuff for the glue and to repair adjacent soft areas. Again, the foam should be compressed and allowed to dry for a week or two.
Awesome job. I appreciate all the work you put into this for all of us viewers. This will help greatly when I fix targets of my own or some of the targets at my local club. Thanks again.
Very cool video my guy! Really informative! After watching this I think I will try the loctite foam to repair my targets just because of cost effectiveness. I really like how you reviewed these products without any bias. Clean review!
This was a great and informative video, you really put a lot of work into it. I have a Mackenzie 3D Pro target that needs repair so I'm thinking of using the flexfoam-it after watching your tests. My question is, my son kind of damaged the area around the replaceable core by shooting broadheads into the target...is flexfoam-it sticky and bondable? Will it stick to the existing chewed up foam of the target, or will it just form against the "wound" and not bind, making an awkward shaped plug?
I could not say it better the you did. In addition, it must also be noted that if your 3D target is already virtually destroyed in less than 100 arrows shots ... I wonder if it is worthwhile to continue spending money for it. :-(
I would say no. The insulation foam better not be, same for the fence post mix. It also depends on what you call "Biodegradable" time wise. Some probably would degrade if left out in the elements by themselves over time (not days or weeks, but months or years)
@@3DArchery Thanks for the swift reply. Hoping to find something I can throw in the compost ideally, when it's been destroyed. I guess I should practice weaving straw rabbits :D
Thinking about making my own foam target...not sure of the dimensions more than likely a simple rectangle ...my question is on the smooth product what was the average penetration...of course I know you shooting traditional bow ....I shoot a 60 lbs compound... what size depth would you recommend for a compound
@@rcardoso530 To get a better answer I would say contact Smooth - On. But I would guess at least 8". Had a guy shoot my skull with an 80 pound compound and it had six inches of foam and he just barely broke the back at 15 yards.
@@3DArchery okay cool...I tired of bags and seems silly to pay so much for rhineheart blocks..I hoping this will do the trick...I thinking about doing ahhh maybe 4 foot wide by 4 foot wide....so I gotta call them to see how much I would need...thanks for the replies the whole building your own 3d targets seems to be some kind of state secret....
That all depends on what is important to you. Sika provides the most fill, but will not heal and thus will not last nearly as long. 3D Country is the most expensive, but will last much longer. Flex Foam is the most versatile, but also requires the most time.
Just used the Smooth On FlexFoam-It 15. Fantastic stuff, and easy to use. 17 weight was used in the video, but Smooth On recommends the 15 weight for archery targets. Same stuff, but the 15 is a little more dense. The FlexFoam-It was very easy to use, and the sample kit size if perfect for one major repair. I did a 4" hole though the McKenzie black bear, and then cut out much of the outer portion around the hole. I let it sit overnight, and then it cleaned up pretty easy. It does not sand well, so i was a little more aggressive using a grinder with a flap disk. Painted it up, drew scoring rings with an old soldering iron, and painted it. Shot about 100 arrows today, and you not even know the target had been shot. Arrows pulled pretty easy with arrow lube. The 3d Country is great stuff as well, and you can not go wrong with either.
Do you ever use brodheads on your targets? And how do the patches hold up when you use brodheads?
@@adamvisser9815 I never shoot broadheads at 3d targets, just tears em up too quick, and too costly for my liking. I use the Morell Yellow Jacket broadhead targets.
Along with the foams that you mentioned and tested, there are some other ways of making very durable repairs. First, strengthen the target before it is all shot up. Inject Great Stuff into all of the arrow holes and small voids. I can often inject 2 full cans into the kill zone of a deer sized target. Compress the foam by wrapping in plastic and then duct tape. Allow to dry a week or two, rasp smooth, burn in score rings and repaint. Second method is to pull out all of the shot up pieces. Then save the pieces and take additional material from a target that is beyond repair. Pack the pieces and even just crumbled target material into the shot out kill zone area. Wrap with plastic and tape and inject Great Stuff. You actually have to be careful not to overdue it or you will end up with a repair that is too tough and it will be difficult to remove arrows. The third method is my favorite. I live near Long Island sound and have access to marine buoys. Some are made out of really tough durable foam. I use a dry wall saw to cut a circular hole for a tight fit and then use Great Stuff for the glue and to repair adjacent soft areas. Again, the foam should be compressed and allowed to dry for a week or two.
Excellent video. Thanks.
Wow! You put some serious work into this vid! Awesome stuff man
Awesome job. I appreciate all the work you put into this for all of us viewers. This will help greatly when I fix targets of my own or some of the targets at my local club. Thanks again.
Well done. I appreciate the range of products you covered, and how you gave the pros and cons for each.
Very cool video my guy! Really informative! After watching this I think I will try the loctite foam to repair my targets just because of cost effectiveness. I really like how you reviewed these products without any bias. Clean review!
Brilliant Stuff, beyond the call!
Can't wait for Our Next Episode, beauty 3d.
Great reviews and very helpful.
Thank you I've been wondering if it's cheaper to get one you could replace but you answered my question perfect great video keep up the good work
Thank you for making this video. Saved me alot of time and money.
Another great video....very informative :-)
Verry helpful video thank you for the time and trouble.
You are doing God's work buddy.
Nice vid, very informative. Looks like Flex Foam-iT is a good choice.
Great video!
This was a great and informative video, you really put a lot of work into it. I have a Mackenzie 3D Pro target that needs repair so I'm thinking of using the flexfoam-it after watching your tests. My question is, my son kind of damaged the area around the replaceable core by shooting broadheads into the target...is flexfoam-it sticky and bondable? Will it stick to the existing chewed up foam of the target, or will it just form against the "wound" and not bind, making an awkward shaped plug?
Pathfinders Lead the Way!
I wonder if the holes self seal to some extent the way it grips the arrow.
Great video I been looking for a good homemade back stop for 70 and 80 bows and a good back stop any ideas would be help.
Archery net. Not cheap but they do work
For the TLDR guys;
Flex Foam It & Target Master were the best.
Great stuff and Loctite were the worst.
In other words you get what you pay for.
I could not say it better the you did. In addition, it must also be noted that if your 3D target is already virtually destroyed in less than 100 arrows shots ... I wonder if it is worthwhile to continue spending money for it. :-(
CK_32 what’s TLDR?
If the lock tight is 4 times denser then why did it weigh nearly the same for a similar volume?
Great question.
It probably expands much less, making it more dense
Any of that stuff biodegradable?
I would say no. The insulation foam better not be, same for the fence post mix. It also depends on what you call "Biodegradable" time wise. Some probably would degrade if left out in the elements by themselves over time (not days or weeks, but months or years)
@@3DArchery Thanks for the swift reply. Hoping to find something I can throw in the compost ideally, when it's been destroyed. I guess I should practice weaving straw rabbits :D
@@matthewchapman896
Don't think any foam would work. That would be a great marketing angle. Just have to figure out a material that would work.
Thinking about making my own foam target...not sure of the dimensions more than likely a simple rectangle ...my question is on the smooth product what was the average penetration...of course I know you shooting traditional bow ....I shoot a 60 lbs compound... what size depth would you recommend for a compound
Depends on how far away your are going to shoot it from.
@@3DArchery 20 too 120 yards
@@rcardoso530
To get a better answer I would say contact Smooth - On. But I would guess at least 8". Had a guy shoot my skull with an 80 pound compound and it had six inches of foam and he just barely broke the back at 15 yards.
@@3DArchery okay cool...I tired of bags and seems silly to pay so much for rhineheart blocks..I hoping this will do the trick...I thinking about doing ahhh maybe 4 foot wide by 4 foot wide....so I gotta call them to see how much I would need...thanks for the replies the whole building your own 3d targets seems to be some kind of state secret....
@@rcardoso530
The initial cost will be higher, but once you have the form, The price drops quite a bit.
4X4 will be expensive, I can tell you that.
Have you ever tried FlexFoamiT 15?
I think the company is called Smooth On
Paul Crave
Know it well. Used in the comparison video and in the 3D Duck and skull targets videos
@@3DArchery How about the 3D Country Target Master foam. Have you used that?
@@paulcrave3112
Yes, I have. Also used Cherokee's and several others
3D Archery which is the best and least expensive?
That all depends on what is important to you. Sika provides the most fill, but will not heal and thus will not last nearly as long. 3D Country is the most expensive, but will last much longer. Flex Foam is the most versatile, but also requires the most time.
3D target repair foam .com
$350 for 2 gallons, hands down better than Rinehart foam
I also use a 5" grinder with 24 grit wheel for reshaping, might need to try the flex foam
The smoothon flex foam comes in 3-27 lb foam ,what was yours you tested?