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3D printed parts are STRONG?! - (3D Printer Academy Tested - Episode 1)
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- čas přidán 16. 08. 2024
- Have you ever wondered how strong 3d prints actually are? Welcome to a brand new 3D Printer Academy series, where we figure out how strong 3D prints actually are. In this first episode we build the testing apparatus and then test how infill % impacts 3D printed object strength.
For more visit www.3dprintera...
Thanks for watching and happy printing!
-Steven
Owner of 3D Printer Academy
#experiment #3dprinting #3dprinteracademy #3dprints #strength #test
Would be amazing to see a video where you test different popular patterns.
100% in the works. This is just episode 1, stay tuned for the whole series!
This was fairly scientific, tho some improvements you may wish to make include:
- Keeping track of environmental conditions during the prints and testing
- Testing each infill more than once and averaging results
- Testing the infill in different directions
- Testing different print orientations
- Testing different infill patterns
- Testing different wall thicknesses (like you mentioned)
- Testing different print settings (temperature, fan speed, layer height, print speed, nozzle size, ect.)
- Testing different printers/filaments
- Testing different shapes, ie. cylinders.
I would love to see a series where you test a number of these ideas and attempt to make a print with the best strength to weight ratio or strength to print time ratio.
The real challenge is how to design the tests so you don´t need to run 586248 tests to have some conclusion in the end.
As you have said you need a controlled environment temp and humidity. Conduct every test 3-6 times and take the average. control for machine parameters like speed temp etc. and then go on testing.
@@sierraecho884 Of course, there has to be a balance. these are just suggestions, if he wanted to test every combination of possibilities he would be hear for months but if he just tested each variable separately then combined the most promising techniques it could result in a decent end product. Of course, unless you test every possibility, you wont know if the combination you chose was the best, but it still might be quite good.
Also recording the yield strength
@@miniminerx True, and maybe testing torsion shear and compression all separately and seeing the deformation patterns without going all the way to failure.
and make a 15-dimensional graph for the results
You can put the gears below the beam. That way, the plastic parts would work in compression, which is much stronger than tension.
Great idea, I hadn't considered that. It was driving me nuts watching the test equipment bounce off the floor with each test, so I was glad to see an anchor was added to keep that from happening.
You can also put the holder above the top beam, so it too works in compression. Also also for the puller - some kind of metal reinforcement
Actually, that would be another great variable to test. How the strength differs between tension and compression.
Oh, the compression is waaaaay stronger than tension.
@@lmfny63
Excellent video. Would love to see a follow up detailing wall thickness effect on strength as the testing of my own parts have found that to be a better compromise of strength vs print time.
Would be cool to see the wall thickness scale with the infill percentage
My suggestions for improving the test apparatus:
1. Replace one of the gear sets with a block and tackle. This will reduce the forces on all the gears as well as the rope, and can be made more compact.
2. Instead of putting the gear hubs below the bottom frame, drill holes and build them right into the frame. With forstner bits you could drill holes to fit the bearings right into the board sides, and then print a retainer to hold them in place.
3. Build the high-stress parts from aluminum if you can. Even pieces of flat bar held together with steel allthread would be much stronger than printed parts.
4. Add some kind of retainer to catch the puller after failure! Once the part releases, the rope should go slack and it shouldn't take much to stop it.
Hi, one suggestion - I'd connect the meter with a rope (slightly longer than the length from the beam to the top hook) to the top beam. Once the tested part snaps, the meter does not fall on the ground every time. Every time it fell on the ground, my heart skipped a beat. :P
Edit: you've done just that at 5:50 👍
Why didn't you put the axles of those big gears (or at least the final gear) BELOW the wooden beam? That way those plastic holders would just be guarding the axles from shifting left or right, but not have to take much load.
Thanks for your video. You have built a beautiful and useful setup. I'm curious how much stronger the material is, if it is manufactured in the "normal" way. You would then have to melt a test beam in a mold. You can then compare how strong the 3D printing process is.
I’m a retired mechanical engineer and appreciate your efforts. What filament did you use for this testing?
Bambu Lab PLA
Thanks for testing! I would be interessted in a series, you could test different Infill patterns, wall thickness, printing speeds, Materials and so on!
Exactly
Was the orientation of the beams the same during testing and printing? Are we seeing layer separation or just material strength?
That's what I was thinking too.
Yes and both
Dudes smart enough to engineer this masterpiece but not knowledgeable enough to mark the holes before he drills or use the long end of the Allen key for more torque lol. I love it.
Thought this was a diss
Great start for a test. Some things I'd like to know in a possible follow-up video:
Base and height measurements of the cross-section of the piece.
Print layer orientation (and comparison test)
Length of the piece as measured from its supported ends.
It should be possible to derive some information on the flexural strength of the material, which can be refactored into other load-bearing designs.
What about the orientation of the grid in relation to the pull direction. Also, I'd look at some u bolts for the part that connects to the test piece.
Why didn't you put your gear-train underneath the beam instead of on top? Wall thickness is going to play an important part here, so 100% is equivalent to as thick a wall as you can get.
You could make a catch with a buffer spring below the slide so it doesnt fall and parts fly everywhere.
Your testing rig is pretty nice. The way you built it, I think a gauge to measure deflection could be easily mounted to the top. Deflection prior to failure could be a useful metric in your testing.
Thank You, I'm looking forward to the series.
I think the strength has a very strong relationship with the print angle as well............
This would be very helpful if you could get into resin printing as well and attempt the strength test on that along with other popular filaments
I think it would have been beneficial to attach the lower brackets to the bottom of the 2x4 so that everything was getting loaded in compression instead of tension and alleviating problems with layer adhesion.
Create a Clear or Opaque shield cover for your gears to avoid damage to the Full gears and the teeth at least the two big gears right under the weight measure need it for the reel you can have a hole/slot cut out in the shield for thread passing and easy removal.
It's nice getting real world results. Great video.-
Good stuff!
Material and wall thickness matter here also
in flexion walls should be much more impactant since they add a lot more of quadratic moment
I wonder if the test reset would be easier if you put the whole thing upside down. So it’s pulling up on the part instead of down, and that way when it breaks, everything stays basically in place except the broken piece.
Based on what I know from 3d printing. It seems like your print temps are to low. The separation of the whole layer on one side of the break shows that their is poor adhesion between the wall/infill and top or bottom. I see most filament manufactures suggest 190-210 for the temp to print PLA. Although I find 220 to give better results with layer adhesion.
The piece of plastic in this thumbnail looks like a delicious wafer
While this approach has its merits, it falls short of scientific rigor in some aspects. Here are some suggestions for improvement:
Test rig: Opt for construction materials that surpass the strength of the material under test, such as metal (e.g., aluminum extrusions).
Additionally, contemplate conducting a four-point bending test instead of a three-point test. In a three-point test, errors may arise at the contact point, whereas employing four points ensures a constant bending moment is applied to the part being tested, rather than a linearly increasing one.
What thickness were those plastic mini-beams? 1" x 0.5"?
Are those drywall screws?
Now do one with only perimeters going up
Would love if you made the results available inea spredsheet. I want to approximate the strength per weight.
Working on it!
Are you sure the beam is 10 mm x 10 mm? It looks bigger.
Excellent video.👍
Well done. Thank you.
Would it make sense to turn the device upside down.
That poor little scale
Pcb way for some cnc gears
How does this show how speed effects 3d print strength? Also, grid infill isn't great for z direction strain, you'd want cubic or gyroid
Stay tuned for more tests
TRY THE SAME TEST WITH TRANSPARET FILAMENT
This video and experiment was short sighted at best ..
Never stated what type filament was used
Bambu Lab PLA basic
I have don a simpler study and I got much more linjer results when increasing infill, and walls whas a much better way of increasing strength. 1 wall an 90% infill who's about ass strong ass 3 walls 5% infill
Could not test 4 walls due to limitations in the test equipment
Why are people still using grid infill in 2024
테스트 바의 반향을 신경 쓰지 않았다
does strength change sepending on if infil types? not % but hexagon,sqaure,diamond,3d, etc? that woudl be cooll to see and comapre it to this data.
Depending on the load orientation absolutely. There need no test to be conducted to be able to answer that. That´s why infill type like gyroid exist to have a more isometric behavior.
This is pretty simple, filament colors and parameters would probably make more sense to test because the answer is not so clear in that regard.
I would print 3 layers of the gears and use them as a template to cut wooden gears. Wood glue and screws would provide very strong connections. I agree with anither commenter who suggested you put the mounting hardware on the underside so they are being compressed instead of under tension.
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w vid