Incredible 900hp Turbocharged LS swap Toyota Pickup (New 400cu in Ls3)
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- čas přidán 22. 08. 2024
- LS swapped Mini truck with a domestic makeover. Forged 400cu in Stroker(previously 370 & 5.3L), 78mm Turbo, A2W, T-56 Magnum 6 speed, narrowed Ford 8.8, Qa1 Coilovers, 315 DR's, Daily Driven Sleeper.
/ turbyota
Build sheet: 1994 Toyota pickup base 2wd 22re 5spd. 400 cu in 3.900 K1 Stroker crank .040 over forged pistons -5cc dish & H beam rods. 9.99:1 compression. CNC Ported LS3 Heads, Roller Rockers. (Previously 370 cu in Lq9 iron block bored .030 over.) Stock gun drilled Forged crank shaft, Forged H beam rods, Weisco Pistons, Stock 243 heads, ARP hardware, melling high psi std vol pump, Stainless valves, Comp gold roller rockers, Comp 3/8” pushrods, Polished PSI dual springs, Summit Ghost cam, Ported Weiand ls6 alum intake, Fast 92mm TB, Billet Flywheel, McLeod RXT dual clutch, T-56 Magnum 6 speed, White Lightning shifter, slipper clutch solenoid, msd 2-step, custom 3.5” steel Driveshaft, Chromoly Slip yoke, spicer 1350’s, Billet Steel pinion yoke, Narrowed Ford 8.8 rear, Eaton True Trac, ford racing 3:55 gears, rear disk brakes, front Lexus LS400 brake retrofit, 03 Cobra deep dish 17x8 & 17x10.5, Toyo R888R 315/40 Drag radials, StabFab Mustang ii rack and pinion conversion, Custom chromoly steering Shaft, QA1 dual adj rear shocks, Qa1 adj coilovers up front, mustang 2 adj upper A-arms, custom mounted Jeep 1.25” rear swaybar, Belltech front swaybar, Caltracs traction bars, Slam air helper bags w/ on-board air, GM hydroboost conversion, 1976 vette MC, CPP prop valve, GM type 2 pump w/ adj Heights valve, Stand-alone Holley/Snow Performance Methanol injection kit, Aeromotive A1000 Brushless fuel pump, -10an lines, Tuned on 91 oct pump, Billet 7875 Turbo, custom fabbed turbo manifolds, double stacked billet steel T4 merge, 3” cold side, dual 50mm TiAL wastegates, 44mm TiAL BOV, Full Autometer dash with automatic air to water intercooler pump setup, Autometer E-boost controller, 5 gallon ice box under bed, 19 gallon Ford F-150 auxiliary steel fuel cell behind axle, diesel bolt on fuel sump, Aeromotive billet FPR, FAST billet rails, 3.5” downpipe with e-cutout and Boost activated Loudvalve dump. Truck has full interior, power windows, power door locks, power steering, power brakes, stereo,(no a/c) and is a daily driven street truck, 100% built and tuned in house.
I love that Toyota door buzzer sound that is very distinctive of that gen Toyota, then instead of the 22re sound you hear the v8 fire up!! It's the little things LoL
I'm building a l33 5.3 with a TorxStorm super charger, forget internals, Trailblazer intake plenum Ls2 fuel injection system, 1 7/8" long tube SS headers. 1994 Toyota pickup but it's going to have a th400 TCI transmission and a 8.8 Limited Slip differential with 4.56 gears. I hope it run as fast/quick as a imagine this white Toyota is. 370 CID LS motors with a turbo and a manual transmission I bet this truck is borderline crazy to drive it and use all that HP. But I imagine it's the fastest vehicle on the streets where this guy lives. Beautiful job doing all of the work he has done, it looks really professionally done in appearance. Be careful out there man. When that turbo gets spoiled up I bet it's a fucking monster.
Nice build! I have a 1990 Toyota pickup standard cab with a LS 5.3 with a 4L60e trans. It has been my daily driver for a couple of years and she runs sweet! My next move is to install a Ford 8.8 that I pulled out of a Ford Explorer. The stock Toyota 8 inch rear has been a solid axle, but I want to keep the drivetrain running American parts.
Hey man I was wondering if it would be good for the 4wd 1990 pickup extra cab?
What year explorer for the axel?
That license plate is hilarious!! Wonder how many people actually get it... Love the build! Awesome job 👌
💯🍻 badass build !!! well done!!! 🍻💯
Nice work. Hope I can get mine looking that clean. More videos dude.
Awesomely build man! I’m currently in the process of planning my build. 93 Toyota pickup 2WD standard cab. I’m concerned with fitment mainly and trying to see how much fabrication is going to be needed. Planning on using dirty dingo Motorsports universal LS conversion mounts, tose will be welded in. Then looking at STABFAB for the rack and pinion conversion as well as the front coilover conversion kit since I want to ditch the torsion bars for more exhaust clearance.
I wanted to see how you liked the rack conversion. Also what your thoughts are or maybe pointers on this type of swap. Not going for a turbo build straight away just the swap so I can drive my truck again. I’ve read that any truck blocks LR4/LM7 LQ4/9 need to run Fbody or corvette accessory drives? For clearance reasons I’m sure but was also wondering if a truck Acc drive could work with e fan upgrade at the least? Or is the truck intake too tall for the stock hood? I’d like to keep the engine as stock as possible so it’s cheaper and a faster swap. I’d consider getting a cowl hood for clearance reasons as that may be a solution? Just send any thoughts my way it would be much appreciated!
Go with any swap parts Jake makes(stabfab). It will make your life MUCH easier. You'll want to go with f-body spacing. The vette stuff has limited options. No way would I bother attempting this with truck spacing. you will need to push the firewall tunnel up to stuff the block and bell as far back as you can. The t56 trans mount is in the stock toyota position on mine, as far as depth goes. I would also hack the crossmember off if youre going coilover. You can get a bolt on x-member from summit for 50 bucks just make your own brackets and weld some nuts to the back of them, so you can pull the trans w/o unbolting the cab. You will likely have heat issues, if it gets hot where you live. Get some powerful dual fans from Spal. The slim ones. Not china knockoffs. You will need to cut the trans tunnel out and make a new one. Gas pedal clearance is tight. If you run power steering w/ mustang2 rack, you will need to get custom hoses made(braided AN hose won't hold the pressure side). And get a Heights valve bc the steering will be twitchy. I'm running hydroboost and it stops faster than a 911 Porsche. Leaving modded z06 or any 6 fig exotic in the dust is a daily occurrence.... Hope this helps
@@champspec that’s exactly the input I was looking for! I appreciate it a lot and I’m glad that you were willing to share some tips. I will check back periodically with updates and or more questions. It’s hard to find recent info. I searched every conceivable thread onLS1tech and Toyota forums I could find but almost everything is 8-10 years old and not a lot of pictures/video are available. But anyways lots of helpful info! Thanks again! Also last note is I’m in NorCal so when this is done definitely gotta setup a meet! I’ve been dying to see Jake’s trucks too lol! Send all the modded minis!
@@danielm2246 I’m still doing research on stuff. My main concern is with the fabrication required on engine and trans mounts. I don’t have those resources readily available. I have been talking to STABFAB and may be changing directions. Going for a more non fabrication/bolt in approach. Keep it Toyota so to speak. Still gonna get his bolt in rack kit and his coilover kit both of which require cutting. Welding can come afterward.
Burnin209 dont stress off the motor mounts too much. Just get some poly s10 swap LS mounts that have slots in them, so you can slide them from to back. It’ll give you the adjustment you need. You’ll need a shallow aftermarket oil pan and some creativity to get the hood to latch without pins and the clearance for the rack crossmember. You’ll spend alot of time fitting the steering shaft around the header. So do them at the same time. Jake and I both hacked off the radiator support and got a replacement one and made it a bolt on. Getting rid of the stock trans crossmember and torsion bars made things SO much better. I wish i did it from the start.
Sick man 🤙fucking good lookin engine bay bud
This is awesome. Great job.
Well built
That is the Baddest pickup on the face of the Planet!
Hoonigan covered one that was LS swapped with twin turbos. Thats a bad MFer
hope you got some stabfab arms in the front with coil overs.
Love it! I have a plan in my head for mine to end up about like that! Could you let me know what setup you used for the hydroboost pretty please, and did u get rid of the proportioning valve when you did the rear end swap or the new master cylinder?
There’s a billet adapter that adapts the bolt pattern of the hydroboost to toyota and clocks it 90 degrees. You also need it for the correct spacing. So don’t think you can just re-drill the holes. The pushrod length is super important for it all to work. I used a GM power steering pump, which puts out alot of pressure for the mustang 2 rack. So if you do this setup, you’ll need and adj Heights valve to dial in the steering so its manageable at highway speeds. The hydro boost is a ‘76 corvette setup. You’ll need to get rid of the stock toyota prop valve setup in the rear. There’s a valve that you can get that CPP sells that will set your front to rear bias about perfect. Or you can use an adj wilwood valve. Stock brake pedal is fine.
Nice Yota man. Mine needs a V8 of some sort desperately.
or a nissan I6
@Fix Fitness, I love it‼️ May I a stupid question why not use a 2nd gen / 05 + reg cab? I know they are a bit heavier but theirs a lot more room. I’ve seen NA LS/Vortech intakes clear the hood. I found a shop that does installs that look factory not cheap but clean. Sadly I don’t have the tools or skills. Biggest issue is the wiring & making everything work as I’m an old fart. So I like AC in AZ. I’ve done DIY Viking coilover’s and the URD Rotrex system that I don’t care for.
The simple answer is because this platform is more unsuspecting and has more of a sleeper effect imo... and the power to weight ratio, being that the pickup weighs about 1000lbs less than that year Tacoma. It was an easy decision.
Super sick truck 🤘🏻, I’m curious about the door cards though did you just cut to fit the 1st gen Tacoma speaker mount portion
Pretty much. You just have to mark the holes for the drop outs on the tacoma pods for the screws to hold it on to the card. The door cards for the tacoma dont fit right. But if you do this, you’ll see what i mean. The tacoma cards hang about an inch or two lower. So the pods need to be moved up accordingly
Jala bien la toyotita
Did you have to cut the firewall to get that LS in . What mounts did you use ?
hey man i was wondering what motor and transmission mount did you use because i’m doing the same to my 91 toyota pick up
i forgot to mention i’m using a 5.3 ls
S10 swap poly motor mounts for the front and a summit racing weld in transmission crossmember, that i made perches to have it bolt in
Mind if I ask if you went to heavier torsion bars? That's a good deal of extra poundage up front.
I tried cranking on the stock bars a good 5 turns. It kept sagging more on a weekly basis. I’d planned to ditch the bars and go coilover anyway. I’d recommend doing this before swapping a v8 in to anyone. It makes life 1000x’s easier with a bolt in x-member, no steering box, draglink, and t-bars in the way of the exhaust. Stabfab has the conversion parts to do everything along with parts list.
How hard was the axel swap? Any special fan work? Beautiful truck!!!
the pumpkin is off center because of the explorer having 4 wheel drive. you have to cut the drivers tube down and use 2 passenger axles for it to work
What type of seats do you have on your truck? by the way I love the build, is super clean!!!
From what I gathered, They were pulled from the center row of a newer Chrysler mini van. I modified the seat tracks to bolt them in, like they would have came from factory.
Are those caltracs for a Toyota or S10?
They are custom ordered to size. You have to tell them to send you the low profile plates with one hole. None of the other side plates have enough ground clearance(unless youre lifted).
What dash is that? I have a 84’ longbed I’m Ls swapping. I was going to put the Holley dominator screen where the gauges go but i like the look of yours.
Its an autometer billet c10 dash insert. The a/c vents are cutout with molded autometer angled rings plastic welded into place and filled with a combination of resin and black PDR glue.
Donde puedo conseguir accesorios para mi 4runner 87
What the specs on the rims? And is the rearend the stock width? Did you have to make clarence for the 315 tires? Awesome truck
The specs are 17x10.5 with offset for a n95 mustang. The toyo R888R's are 315's. They run real big. A size bigger than nitto and MT and 2 sizes bigger than falken azenis. The toyos are easily better tires than every DR ive tried. The 8.8 was narrowed on the right with a stock left side axle. All the perches will need to be removed and re-centered. I had to add 15mm spacers to clear the inner bed. The outsides are rolled a good amount.
I wanna do this to my 87, any forums or facebook groups you used as reference? Or even any youtube channels?
No. There was only one person I found that did anything like this at the time I started it. But he had no pictures of anything. The best person to talk to woukd be Jake at Stabfab.com He’s familiar with my truck and makes the crossmembers for the rack conversion and bolt on coilover brackets, which you will end up doing regardless. So you might as well do it first and get it out of the way, IMO. If you skip these mods and try to work around them, you will have yourself some instant caveats with the steering shaft, box and running your exhaust around the torsion bars. The best thing i did in the build was scrap the bars and hack the stock crossmember out of there so I can put a bolt in x-member in its place.
Where do you did it? And how much it cost to ?🙏 wanna do something like that
What model muffler? (LS swap 94 pickup here, but I need to sneak out of the culdesac at 5am for work)
I’m running a 4” boost activated cutout that dumps near the bellhousing. The exhaust constricts down to 3.5” resonator, then again to 3” single in/out straight through muffler and dumps before the axle. I had a 3.5” muffler abd it was way louder at idle and cruise. The cutout makes the restricted exhaust moot at WOT… this is the only way to get the noise level down to be tolerable since its driven on the daily
Do you go to any shows in cali? I'm in socal and I've had my boosted ls swap done for a while. I would love to meet up and check out your truck.
I think I reached out to you last year when I was compiling parts for this build. I’ll probably be attending truck mania in Sac on October 5th with both trucks. That’s all that’s planned so far.
@@champspec nice sadly Sacramento is a pretty good drive so if I go I'll have to trailer the truck out there. Do you go to Bakersfield because that's like the halfway point from where I live to Sacramento
Ken's Shop never been down to Bakersfield... for any shows or races, at least.
How much would it take to do a similar build like this
What would a 5k build be like ?
This build was in the $15k range, w/o any labor, since I did it all myself 100% in house. But I didnt cut any corners. It should have been closer to $12k, but the fact is most aftermarket parts a junk these days. You can probably do it yourself for $5k-8k with a used pull out engine automatic transmission and complete wiring harness. Turbo would cost alot more
Will the last work with a 4wd pickup 5speed
I guess anything can be possible.
How did you do the 5 lug swap
The 2wd Pickup comes stock with 5 Lug. The rear axle is a Ford 8.8 that has the same size lug pattern.
Can I do this to my 4x4 92 yota
Can you help me do this to my 4x4 1992 Toyota Pickup 🛻
I wouldn’t even attempt doing this to a 4x4. No chance of fitting it all under the hood.
Where did you get the hood lift pistons?
4146 hood struts for Acura RL
What is the rear axle
Its a Ford 8.8 from an Explorer that’s been narrowed on the longer side to center the diff. 3.55 gears and eaton True Trac.
Build specs what adapter you used and cost
No adapter was used. Custom motor mounts, custom radiator support, custom transmission crossmember, custom rear gas tank crossmember, custom coilover mounts in front with mustang 2 steering rack conversion, custom steering shaft, firewall work, custom transmission tunnel, relocated rear shocks, removed stock transmission crossmember and torsion bars. Lets just say the Cost of the build was about 10x’s what i paid for the truck. Took about 5 months from start to finish, while working full time
did u do anything for weight in the rear end?
Yes. There are three 3/4" thick rubber stall mats in the bed(100 lbs) each. And the Ford 19 gallon tank behind the axle, 5 gallon intercooler ice box, electric water pump, 2.5 gallon methanol tank w/ Holly pump, and the relocated battery all directly in front of the rear axle.
Did you get it to hook at all before the matts?
Calvin Ledsome not a chance. Even on the best paved roads, perfect tire pressure, 315 drag radials, Eaton posi and Caltracs... it still spun badly. I think 400 lbs is the magic number. It depends how the shocks are set. With an empty bed, my best 0-60mph on the street(without a burnout) was 4.6 sec... with the added weight, i pulled off a 3.6 second time w/o a burnout while running on 7 cylinders(melted plug wire) and only 91 pump gas. I imagine there’s some left on the table, with a prepped track and better fuel.
Do u sell tuning file ?
Bro
What fuel tank is that?
Ford F-150 auxiliary tank - 19 gallon
Just sent you a DM on IG im doing a 351W swap on mine
What’s your Instagram?
@turbyota