How To Replace Lower Ball Joints - 96-99 K1500 / Suburban
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- čas přidán 6. 09. 2024
- In this video I am demonstrating a step by step breakdown on how to replace a lower ball joint. The repair is being performed on my 1999 GMC Suburban but is a good guideline for most other ball joint replacements. I hope this video helps you and please be sure to ask if you have any questions. Also, please Like and Subscribe as I will continue to put out videos that share my knowledge of automotive repair.
Dam you’re good 👌🏻
Wow that was one of the best videos on ball joint replacement. My 97 Tahoe it’s still ticking and runs better than our newer vehicles thanks for sharing.
Good video! I did wonder if you squeezed those brake pads more open with greasy fingers though.
Can’t remember now, but if I did it would burn off in the first couple hundred feet. Cheers!
You make it look real easy thanks
Dude was born to be a mechanic.
Same exact Suburban here getting done this weekend. Thanks for this!
Quick, clear and professional. Thank you. Well done 👏
Nice work, you've got a knack for this style of video.
Thanks!
I've watched a number of how to videos on reworking the control arms. You have a clear and straight forward way of presenting your operations. I liked the way you mentioning the required torque values during reassembly for various bolts. Keep up the good work. I don't have a bushing tool and the one at Oreilly's is always gone when I need it. I used a section of 5/8 threaded rod, nuts and washers to force the old bushings out of the lower arm . The ball joint came apart with my shop press after making a support out of 2 1/2 ID pipe to support the control arm during ball joint removal.
Thanks a bunch!
Thanks a lot I picked up a few tricks I didn't know about
Absolutely! Glad I was able to help.
My 95 K1500 axle nut is also 35mm, Thank you for the video very good
No thank you.
Love your video man I never seen someone do it so perfect lot of people try to explain things and they irritate the hell out of me because they talk too much you're the first guy I ever seen make it simple easy great job million thumbs up wish you was in my city I'll make you m
y mechanic
what if you don't have a ball joint press?
That would be a hard one. I think most parts stores will loan one out for free or cheap.
Outstanding video! I'll be doing this on my 1997 Silverado shortly. Thank you!!!
Update
Thank you.
Thanks for the video, helped my buddy and I refresh his 97 tahoes front end.
I thought the purple permatex ceramic grease was not good for the slide pins because they cause the rubber to swell on the bushings. I normally use sly-gide silicone grease instead.
You’re welcome. We’ve been using the permeatex at the shop I work at for as long as I’ve been there and haven’t seen any issues yet. Doesn’t mean it hasn’t happened, just haven’t had it happen to me. I’ll check out the sly glide, I’m curious.
Greetings for you from Iraq
Back at you my friend!
May I ask, where did u get ur ballpoint tool there?
@@brendonevans7532 that one belongs to my shop. It is an older snap on master ball joint press
Which ballpoint (part number) did you order?
Sorry my friend it’s been so long I have no idea. I haven’t even owned that suburban in over 2 years now
Upper ball joint nut is 27mm Lower one is 27mm
Thanks!
Thank you for the guidance. Your video provided only the information i needed - no fluff.
Great video man,i appreciate it aswell 👍
You are very good man!! but remember always use safety glasses !!!
Thanks for the video! this will help when I do mine!
Awesome video sir
awesome video thanks it'll come in handy
Thanks for sharing 🎉
Nice work. Looks so easy.😀
Good vid man
Great Video
This thing looks just like my 99 suburban. Mine has zero rust tho
Sad part about being in the north, hard to find rust free trucks. They’re out there but generally lived down south then came up here.
Ive always wondered how mechanics from the south who move up here feel. Ive had a few Arizona trucks that Ive worked on, and it was almost too easy.
@HP116 I'm from Idaho and we don't have many rusty rigs here. Buy they must feel like the birds from the BP thing when they got cleaned
Lo isiste devolada conpa yo no soy mecánico y necesito eso a mi troca creo que voy a tardar me toda la semana
How did you go about deleting the abs? Which proportioning valve did you use?
I used a proportioning valve off a early 90s blazer that I picked up at a salvage yard.
@@HP116 thanks, I might look into that
Great video. I didn't see a spring by the shock so I assume there was a torsion bar. If that is correct did you have to unload that first?
Sorry for the late response. Yes it is torsion bar and I do not believe I had to unload it, a lot of times I’ll put a stand underneath the control arm when it’s time to reconnect the upper ball joint. If it won’t reach, I will back off the torsion bar key.
We’re those stamped steel or forged lower control arms? Thank you for exceptional video.
The lowers are forged. I just sold the truck yesterday :(
@@HP116 Thank you!!!
Those are stamped steel. Forged are only on k2500 series
My mistake. Just the end that the ball mount presses into is cast steel. The rest is stamped and welded.
It looks so Easy seeing you guys doing it.
I fought with mine for hours. I gave up at 6:30. I’m using a press too. And it just does not wanna come out. 😑
If you don’t have a torch set, go get a map gas torch setup from The Home Depot! It’s not as hot as acetylene & oxygen, but is sometimes just enough to loosen rust seized problems! Also make sure to use a dental pick tool to clean the crevice on top of the ball joint like he did in this vid and spray some penetrating oil in it! Let it sit then try the heat!
To add to the gentleman's below reply,, be sure to only heat the control arm around the ball joint!! Heat makes metal expand! If you just heat the ball joint, you will be making it swell! Just like whenever removing seized studs or anything as such,, you always heat the metal around it! In the case of seized studs, not only would you be swelling the stud, you will be weakening the metal 'only while hot',, and if you put a wrench to it you will twist and eventually break it! What's worse is,, once you heat a stud,, you change it's consistency! Once it cools, the metal becomes hardened causing it impossible to drill out! Just an added lesson for those do it yourselfers who never used heat before! Good luck!
Also, if you never used heat before,,, if you used penetrating oil,, be careful because many of them are flammable! So be ready for that when you heat an area you already sprayed! And of course, always eye protection! Forgot to add this to my heating reply! :)
Smack the hell out of it to get it started to move. A good four pound mini sledge and some penetrating oil. Wear safety glasses and gloves. Once it starts moving, it'll damn near fall out.
Excellent!
Need Help! Need to find/buy the lower control arm for my 1999 Chevy Suburban k1500. can not locate it anywhere online. TIA
Outstanding!
Should it be hard to move the whole splindle left and right like after you replace both
You should be able to feel a little resistance, but it shouldn’t be hard at all.
Do you have to do an alignment after?
Generally yes it’s always a good idea, that being said, I still had to replace the other ball joint and an alignment can’t be done until all parts are tight
Strange. Mine was a 36mm.
Thx man.
youre good
Good video! What do you have there for hubs and backing plates? My backing plates/dust shields are gone(rusted) and I can’t find new ones anywhere!
Just get rid of the backing plates it's no big deal
isn't it necessary to put some adhesive on the balljoint?
What kind of lower control arm was that 1? It matches mine and I need to order new part 1999 suburban
Are you in Baltimore Maryland?
No sir. I’m in Sioux Falls, South Dakota.
Dumb question. Couldn't you theoretically use a pitman arm puller to pull the joints out?
I’ve never tried but I don’t think it would be strong enough.
@HP116 its worth a try when I don't have have the press and tire shop wants 1430$. Is that a tool I could rent from vatozone?
What size is the upper balljoint castle nut?
I want to say it’s an 18mm. I’d go check for you but I sold the suburban.
All good my man I appreciate the reply 🍺🍺
@@HP116nowhere near an 18mm. It's huge
@@AFatherToTheFatherless it’s been a long while since I owned that burb, I may have misspoken haha
It's a 26mm wrench but a 27mm will work since nobody really carries 26mm wrenches. Lower one is 27mm
How much for labor and parts
Where did you get the ball joint from?
Rock auto
@@HP116 what would it be under because I have a 1997 Chevy Silverado K1500
Suspension, then ball joint then go down to “premium”
@@HP116 is your control arm stamped, welded or forged?
@@sarahyates7054 mine was forged.
You mean 36mm
That one was a 35. I see it fairly often with new cv shafts that it will have a different size axle nut. That shaft was replaced a few years back.
What state are u need need your help
I’m in Nova Scotia Canada now, just moved. Was in Connecticut
That's a LOT of anti-seize lol. I bet you were silver af