Pete Whittaker - Silent Scream E7 6C FA
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- čas přidán 7. 03. 2019
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Pete making another memorable first ascent in Burbage in the Peak District!
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Scotland - Krátké a kreslené filmy
Quintessential trad route. Eliminate line, faffy gear, loose block, complicated rope setup, rusty pegs. Love it.
two belayers :)
shaky legs, pausing to wipe cess off your shoes...
All the shittiest elements of climbing combined. Trad is pure masochism.
Whenever people describe really hard trad lines, it's often hard to tell whether they're a trad climber who loves it, or a sport climber who hates it. Like, if you didn't end that with "Love it" I'd have absolutely no clue.
"yeah im there mum!" so English haha
"How to Turn a 10M Crag into a Legit Rock Climb" in ~40 unprotected moves ie Grit. Strong work on the belay, Mum!
My mum definitely wouldn't belay me on an e7 trad route
this is so british. Everything. Even the little "happy withat" smirk at the end
Really enjoyed the film making on this. No nonsense, lots of climbing, wide shots gave perspective. Great little film!
That first runner-flake-thing looks mighty sketchtastic.
So special to have full uncut climbing also to hear the breathing/ speech of the climber. What an experience
the next time someone asks me what british climbing is about im just going to link this video
this was amazing, best short video ive seen in a while
Pretty certain you can hear Pete's heartbeat at certain points through the mic. Ludicrous routes as always
Nice one Pete, I was over gripping my iPhone until you got that friend in!
Love the chat after topping out
What a line! Great viewing!
Good job
Man you really love shit protection ahaha almost feel guilty for climbing on good bolts
A "plaidoyer" for using rare but good inox bolts and climbing will be more fluent !
So kiff
Direct start,Pete?
"I'm there mum"
How will they retrieve the gear ?
Abseil down from the top, just like how they did as the start to clean the holds
Its cool to see FAs that are in the 6c/11a range. Yknow relatable difficulties.
British Trad grades, so not quite what you're thinking: rockfax.com/climbing-guides/grades/
Did I just see BOLTS ona trad route?? Surely I misunderstood something...
Remnants of an old aid route they're only in the rock about half an inch deep and are just hammered in, more like a copper head really.
@@sebastianflynn1746 I actually lead that old aid route back in the late 70's. Even then the bolts were rusted up, and some plaits missing. Using wires on the remnant.
European climbers be looking at this like? Why the fuck would you climb that pebble? Yeah have you ever climbed all over your own home putting screw ons into the walls? You do what you can with what you got. Wish we had big ass lime stone cliffs like the Spanish and French though...
That was fucking HIDEOUS! Gross.
The belay setup at 4:47 looks dangerous. A tube-style belay device can’t hold a fall if the rope runs downwards. That’s why you run the rope through a “dummy” quickdraw or carabiner above the anchor point. Only in this case it’s so close to the anchor point that the belayer+belay device would be pulled upwards to the dummy quickdraw which would negate its purpose. They should have used a munter hitch (which creates sufficient friction in all directions) or put the dummy quickdraw higher.
a tube-style belay device can hold a fall with the rope going downwards if you know how to operate a tube style device in such a setup without a redirect.
It's good to listen to Pete without his creepy laugh
Two belayers, dont count. Should have used one rope with long runners. On my way to straighten it out
Rope drag much?
@@badbenjy learn to deal with it
@@jimtomlinsom1279 look forward to seeing your next e7 fa 👍
@@badbenjy what a fa?
Jim Tomlinsom first ascent. As per the video.
You climb much grit?