CruzeKits.com V3.4+ PCV Fix Kit Install Instructions
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- čas přidán 5. 09. 2024
- CruzeKits V3.4+ PCV Fix Kit Details:
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Supplemental Plug Install Instructions:
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This PCV fix kit is intended to be installed with the intake manifold on the car. The video shows the manifold off the car so you can clearly see the technique of plug being installed.
This video shows you how to install the V3.4+ PCV Fix Kit from CruzeKits.com. This fix kit applies to the following vehicles with the GM 1.4L Turbo LUV, LUJ, or A14NET engine:
2011-2015 and 2016 Limited 1.4L Cruze
2011-2019 Chevy Sonic/Aveo
2015+ Chevy Trax
2013+ Buick Encore (Excludes LE2-equipped models)
2011+ Opel/Vauxhall Corsa (Turbo only)
2009+ Opel/Vauxhall Astra J (Turbo only)
2010+ Opel/Vauxhall Meriva B
2011+ Opel/Vauxhall Zafira Tourer
This PCV fix kit addresses the missing/malfunctioning intake manifold check valve as well as replacing the corrugated hose that typically cracks, resulting in a check engine light. This kit along with a new GM valve cover will fix all of the PCV issues these cars have.
Related DTCs:
P0171
P0106
P1101
P0507
P0299
P2096
Good resource and prompt chat answers on the CruzeKits website. A+ service. Easy installed this kit onto a new Dorman intake manifold. Because the Dorman is an "improved" design, the diaphragm plug seal process on the PCV port is a bit different because the diaphragm sits at an angle and farther back in the intake housing. Was told to use a #10 sheet metal screw and 7/16 nylon washer. After pushing out the center button on the diaphragm I used the recommended 3/4" #10 self tapping pointed sheet metal screw (actually used a pan head screw which has a wider head that will cover the parameter port holes without a nylon washer as there was not sufficient space to fit a 7/16" nylon washer). I just used extra JB weld on the screw threads, under the pan head and on top of the screw, after insertion, to seal the diaphragm port holes. Worked like a charm. Can't wait to test it out as the old system had obviously failed.
Just installed mine yesterday. I highly suggest buying the tool kit. I have 6 different screwdrivers and NONE of them were thin enough in the shaft to fit when the plug was also stuck onto it. I ended up losing my first plug because it sat sideways. I used an angled pick to pull it out but it shot out and I lost it lol Second one I used a thin metal tool I had and thankfully that worked. I’ll fire it up later today at the 24hr mark and see how she runs.
Thanks again!
Found my Cruze to be leaking oil from the front of the valve cover right after purchasing it. Engine was running fine and was at 75K, so I decided to purchase a new GM valve cover and do a tune up to it. Replaced valve cover, spark plugs, ignition coil, air filter, changed oil. After starting the car, it was idling very sporadic and stalling at times and threw a couple of codes. I did some research and came across this kit and seemed to be the fix to my issue. Put the kit on, let it dry for a complete day. I started the car - it idled perfectly, drove it around for a little and cleared the codes. It’s been running like it should.
Thanks for the informational video and the kit!
That’s awesome to hear! Thanks for sharing your experience. That’s precisely why I designed these kits!
Installed my kit 2 years ago, and 22 k mile. Your video reminded me that I need to order replacement check valves.
I drove my car hard as hell for 189k miles and 120k of those were with my fix kit and I never changed a check valve, car idled smooth the whole time I had it.
Just installed this kit! Was very easy to do. My check valve in the manifold was already missing. Now time to wait for the JB weld to cure.. hopefully this will fix some of the issues I was having.. the cam cover had a strong vacuum and the car was running rough at times. I replaced the cam cover and did this kit.. we shall see what happens.. I’m very impressed with this kit and how determined you are to answer everyone’s questions. You don’t get customer service like that these days. Thanks again
Thanks for reporting back! Your car should run much better now after doing both of those, and you should get 2-4mpg back in fuel economy too!
I try my best to provide the exceptional customer service. It’s the only way to do business in my mind!
Thanks for the vid. I recommend removing the intake the manifold, it’s really not much extra work. Much easier to see what you’re doing and you can thoroughly clean the area around the old check valve. Buy the small plastic/nylon type fuel line disconnector tool kit from local parts store and leave the injectors/fuel rails in place to speed things up.
I left the injectors in the rail when I removed the manifold. No messing with fuel that way. It’s still a process and I don’t like being hunched over an engine bay more than I have to. Installing the kit without removing the manifold saves you 60-90 minutes of work, which most people and auto repair shops prefer. It is easier to clean it if you have it out though so I can see that. If you prefer removing it, go for it. Nothing wrong with that, just more work.
Greetings from Germany!!!
Now i know why i've received more clamps that i need! 🤣🤣🤣 I saw now the assembly picture!
The kit is running well on my Opel Meriva B(2011) with 1.4L engine and 120hp(A14NEL)!
Many thanks!!!!!!!!!!!
Just installed. Can’t wait until tomorrow to see how it does. Fingers crossed I got it done correctly lol. Super simple especially with the notes included and this video. Thanks!
Installed my kit on my 16 Cruze LTZ at 85k. Boom! No more hesitation on acceleration, more power, and idles smooth as can be! Thanks so much for making this kit! Totally recommended!
Awesome! Thank you for the feedback. So glad to hear it’s running well!
i have a 15 at 101k, recently has been having the same two issues that yours was having along with more gas consumption, gonna order this and it hopefully fixes it
Update: installed, letting it sit overnight will update tomorrow. the intake was missing the orange thing.
I install this kit way back, my cruze has been a completely different vehicle
no more crazy problems, Thank You.
That's awesome to hear. Thank you for the feedback!
Well made video. I am looking at buying a 2013 Cruze that has the valve cover already removed. After this video, I figure I ought to take a chance and upgrade it all. Again very well made video. Easy to follow along with what you are explaining.
Thanks! Be sure to check out the newer video that shows the install in the engine bay!
I just installed this kit along a new valve cover and intake. 15 Buick encore runs so much better idle is very smooth. 110k on the dash installation is a breeze thanks to this video
So glad to hear! Thanks for reporting back!
I’m happy to see that you’ve been making videos for 10 years. I recently acquired a 2015 Chevy sonic 1.4L turbo and your videos are amazingly informational about the engine. Im familiar with chevy’s v8 platforms but not so much the i4. I have an issue where my car is giving me codes on the dash for multiple random lights, but all the lights are working. The car seems so have lost power, I can hardly get it to 55 and it doesn’t get there in a hurry. I’m currently at o Reilly’s grabbing an obd2 scanner and am going to check the PCV system, coolant system, and then possibly the turbo depending on the codes I get. I’ll comment again and let you know what I find. If you have experienced something similar though I would appreciate your input.
It’s also -27*C on the radio temp, I’m thinking thermostat issue. 🤷🏼♂️
Just finished the install, and while I greatly appreciate your CZcams video detailing installation, I had to refer to several other videos showing installation instructions, hints and tips - to be able to complete the job. My biggest problem was trying to remove the various plugs from their ports - NO videos were detailed enough to do me any good. I ended up just cutting off the hoses at the plugs still installed on their ports, attaching the new hoses and clamps, and had little problem doing it that way. I wish you’d do a new video showing how to install the kit ON the engine, not with the intake removed, and either show how to remove all the plugs in detail, or just do it the way I did it, leaving the plugs in their ports. The one plug I was able to remove was the one attached at the intake manifold check valve port, but I managed to lose the plastic washer in the plug that held the rubber washer in. They both fell out, but i did find the rubber washer. A local Chevy dealer wanted $80 to sell me the whole hose with fittings and washers installed, so that was a no go. I got a copper washer from a NAPA Auto Parts store, but it didn’t fit when I tried it…at which time I did find the plastic washer i had lost and was able to complete the installation. Anyway, GREAT job putting that kit together, and I hope for future buyers, you help them with a better install video. Thank you!
Do you have to take off the intake manifold?
@@JohnDavis1972 no you don’t have to remove the manifold.
Thanks for the feedback Ken. The manifold doesn’t have to be removed for installation; it’s just easier to show all of the individual steps with the manifold on a bench. I’m glad you were able to get it all installed though.
Thanks for mentioning this, gave me the idea to tackle this issue the same way. I really dislike most automotive connections and how they always seem unnecessarily difficult to remove. Hopefully all goes well :)
I just installed this last week. Works perfectly. Thank you.
idk how you have your camera mounted, but that woodpecker noise every time you bump it makes me wanna pull out my hair and eat it
😂
Me too😂
Thanks brotha installed this and a new OEM valve cover to fix my Cruze before I get rid of her. I didn’t install the plug in the manifold tho because it was super late and I work far from work. I’m going to install first thing in the morning at work and let it sit 9hrs to cure . Hopefully when I clear the codes it doesn’t come back
Think your V2 kit that went through the brake booster is the best one. Been running on my car for 3 years no problems. Havnt even checked on it since I installed it 🤣.
Should check the T fitting periodically to make sure it’s clean. I’ve had a few people report the T fitting started leaking since the seals on it aren’t all that great, but yeah I haven’t had any issues reported on that one. Just a couple people that needed to clean the valve.
Just got the job done! Thank you for the in depth guide!!
I wish I could subscribe twice. Outstanding work sir.
Thank you!
I have 2 questions - Is it ok if when popping out the old check valve, it falls into the engine? or is it necessary to retrieve it? And how will you know when the new external check valve has gone bad?
is there a fool-proof way to tell?
Thanks!
I purchased the v3 kit. I have tried a few times with the screwdriver to install the plug and no luck. I think I will have to take off the manifold and try it that way.
I just finished. It was harder to feel the hole then i thought. I actually wasnt sure if i caught on the hole or not but pushed and it went right in..Looked with a flash light after and i beleive it is in good.
Thank you! The kit worked perfectly and this step by step was perfect.
So I guess you'll need to redo the first part again with that EVAP line everytime that goes bad also.
Seems like this is way easier with the intake off too
Redoing the first part takes all of 2 minutes if you need a new EVAP line, and it’s much easier to install the plug in the engine bay. It’s simply easier to show it installed with the manifold on a bench. Removing the manifold can be a pain and takes an hour and a half on it’s own (including reinstall). Most people greatly prefer to not have to remove it and are able to install it easily with the manifold in the car.
@@AndreiDPop good to hear. I will finally try this or get help with it. Had fix kit for a while but always saw the nipple. Even after having the valve cover leak bad (without diaphragm whistling) previously and changing the valve cover and coil rack and plugs because they got fouled and car drove badly.
Don't understand how it could have happened with the nipple still in the intake. Maybe previous owner only changed the intake but didn't do the rest? Oil was pretty low when I bought it at a used dealer and I was desperate for a car.
I can break off the existing valve while its on. The car and clean the passage with the brush tool and drill without worrying about debris getting further into my intake or engine?
I want to know why can the black check valve not simply be glued into the same place as the pink nipple check valve (the one that disappeared). This will eliminate all the pipes and cutting etc?
I was thinking the same thing
Thanks for this. Just got done. Used a new vapor valve and pcv hose. That was harder than it looked. Those connections that go into the big hose were really hard to get all the way on. Alot of twisting and pushing. I used wd-40. Maybe silicone works better. You seemed to slide them on pretty easily. Super glad i ordered the install tools. Need that super thin screwdriver and that cleaning brush is key. Mine was filthy. Drilled it a few times, id spray the bristles clean after each time. I might have went a little heavy on the jb weld i could see it dripping down a little when i look in with a flashlight. That shouldnt be a problem right?
I wish you would have showed what it should look like on the engine. You never mention what to do with the zip ties or show where they go. Im assuming its to hold the new hoses in place..But i do not know where to attatch. What do i do with all the old hose clamps/clips on the engine? I think i can use one of them with the new set up. But there is 2 other hose clips.
Zip ties are to hold the two large hoses in place. Which old hose clamps or clips are you talking about? I don’t know of any that you would have left over.
@@AndreiDPop There are 3 little clips/clamps that the old pcv hose snapped into. I think I can only use the one on the top left corner of the engine with the kit.
@@AndreiDPop I could send you pictures if that helps. Do you have a installed picture of it on an engine so I can see where the zip ties go?
@@willnone9977 send me a text with a picture of those. 219-779-77 four two.
@@AndreiDPop hey is there anyway I can contact you through messages so I can send you some videos to see the problems on my Chevy Cruze 2013 I’ve been trying to fix it for about 2 months already and it doesn’t want to work on me I’m tired of it
does this help clear the P0420 code? already replaced 02 sensors and catalytic converter
I installed a kit with one check valve instead of two 8-10 years back on my wife’s Cruze. Been good since, the check valve was brass instead of plastic. Was that an early kit you made? I can’t remember who I bought it from. Been wondering if I need to service the valve etc. I also used a BNR spacer on that kit. It looks like the V1 kit on the website.
@@kentonw4316 yes that’s the v1 kit. You should be able to order replacement valves on the cruzekits site.
Awesome kit, Dre! I love my kit, but now I am wanting to run an oil catch can! #neversatisfied. Do you have a video or info on the best way to run it? Many thanks in advance!
I have a different set of hoses and a different T fitting for that. I designed an adaptation to use the SuperCruzes.com catch can kit with the pcv fix kit if you’re interested.
@@AndreiDPop I am! Thank you.
@@AFHero66 shoot me a message through the contact form on the cruzekits.com website and I’ll get you details on that.
@@AndreiDPop I did. :) Thanks again!
Found this product after having issues with a A14net engine in an Opel. When shutting off the engine I have this sound that I can only describe as a turkey or a chew (bird). With engine running the dip stick shows a hissing vacuum.
So I checked the pcv valve on the intake and after cleaning inside with a cotton swap it shows the orange piece. Then I checked the pcv membrane by removing the black plastic cap with breather hole by using a heatgun. The membrane is also intact.
I wonder if this kit will solve my issues if those things I checked seem to be in order. Might it be something else?
Your issue is something else.
@@AndreiDPop any idea what?
Congratulations, that's a very informative video. Does the brush after cleaning destroy the valve-mushroom? Does the screw that is placed after close the specific hole?
Is there a push to start kit available for the Chevy Cruze. Manual shift. I have a 2011 want to trick it out as much as I can
so how will i know if the in line check valve goes out????? does it boink the valve in the cam cover ????
It usually starts with slightly reduced power and increased oil consumption. Possibly some external leaks.
Hi ,buddy great job, i amcurrently having a problem,whereby the intake manifold is drawing oil from the valve cover even after installing a new cover ,though not as bad as before replacing the valve cover, my intake manifold is bad though, the little orange nipple is missing,my question is will this cause oil to get sucked into the manifold and will one of your kits solve my issue...and ifso ,is it possible to purchase one of your pcv delete kits on eBay??,i am from all the way here in Durban South Africa 🇿🇦 thanks
Yes this will cause excess oil to come into the intake manifold. Yes the kit should solve this issue. I don’t offer them on eBay due to very high transaction fees. Are you able to order the kit on the cruzekits.com website? I have shipped to South Africa several times already. I can list it on eBay if you’d like, but it would be at a higher price in order to account for the transaction fees.
Will the missing check valve cause stalling? My chevy cruze 2013 1.4t keeps stalling and no check engine but also no check valve.
No, it won’t, but a cracked pcv pipe or bad valve cover diaphragm can. You should still install the pcv fix kit if you know the manifold is bad.
I was wondering if it would be easier to use a split piece of high temp plastic pipe to block the hole in the intake? What else passes through that pipe warm air or boost air? My plug may not have seated. But since it ran ok without the check ball I am staying hopeful.
Do you all sell the manifold with this already installed?
If you don't, you probably should. I'd buy it right now lol
No, it’s a vastly larger overhead in inventory stocking and labor time. I’d have to hire another person just to do that. One of the biggest benefits to this kit is that it is designed to be installed in the engine bay without removing the manifold (there’s an updated install video newer than this one showing that process), and that part of the install is easier and faster than swapping the manifold itself. I believe badnewsracing.net offers a ported intake manifold with v1 pcv fix kit and SuperCruzes.com probably sells one as well with the v3.4 pcv fix kit preinstalled but with a catch can kit added to it.
@@AndreiDPop Copy that. Fantastic videos. Would subscribe twice If I could
Hi dre, my manifold has this little green and black hose on the back left corner where the rubber clamp get screwed into that hole to secure the hose. Is this something new that's unheard of? My manifold was just replaced and I'm not sure if it's after market or not. This hose prevents me from attaching the rubber clamp. Thanks in advance! Super excited to see the improvement!
With the new check valve how will you know it has failed or is failing? It’s not going to blow the rubber diaphragm in the valve cover before you find out is it?
You’d see increased oil consumption and oil leaks.
@@AndreiDPopthanks and sorry I scrolled down and saw the comments asking the same question. I ended up buying the kit I want to drive my Cruze until the wheels fall off
can i have the brand of the spray silicone? thanks for your video
@@VidalPrieto-k6r I use AMSOIL silicone spray but you can use any brand as it won’t be that much different for silicone spray.
threw this on the sonic today, check valve was totally gone. the hardest part was getting that little plastic plug in there. i went through both those glue dots and couldn't get it placed. i could find the hole with bent piece of wire, but that plastic plug wasn't going there no matter what. glue got weak and i gave up before i lost the plug. no idea what kind of glue is on those dots. definitely not rubber cement, i tried that next and it's useless. finally just super glued the screwdriver to it and finally got it seated that time no problem. have to wait til tomorrow to start it up again. hope i cleaned up the check valve port good enough. never buy a cheap bore scope by the way.
glad you got it figured out! The glue dots work pretty well but you have to be centered and 100% clean on both surfaces. Sometimes the plugs can be a bit tough to get in if there are deposits in the way in the port so it helps to ream it out with some wire. Either way you got it going so I’m glad for that!
Will this work on my 2017 Cruze 1.4 L Turbo?
Witam chciałem zapytać gdzie taki zestaw można zamówić? pozdrawiam
Hey! Thanks for the nice job. Should this be done though, when manifold out, or still mounted on the motor? Second issue is: does it fit A14NET motor? And what is the purpose of the Y fitting? Thanks...
It can be done with the manifold still on the motor and yes, it fits that motor.
You said at the beginning to tap off the check valves inside what if its still on motor where wud they fall into!!!
When the check valves fail on their own, the engine just sucks them in and consumes them. Happens all the time.
I did the v3.4 kit as a preventative thing on my '14 Sonic. Now my purge valve is clattering. As this is a new to me car I never heard the noise before the kit. A few years ago I did a v2 version of the kit on my '15 Cruze it also started clattering after that. A new purge valve didn't stop the noise. Any Ideas?
It’s a very common issue with the purge valves. Just means it’s on its way out.
I installed this kit over 20k miles ago and im still idling at + 10% long term fuel trim. Dont know why gonna order boost leak test kit and see
Sounds like you have a small vacuum leak somewhere. Might be hard to find it as that could be a number of things.
Yea i mean its not enough to throw a code but it’s definitely off. I dont think PCV kit is the problem at all
@@flamehands3416 only thing I could think is to do a boost leak test and replace the EVAP purge valve.
The orange nipple on mine won't break. It jist flexes against the flathead screwdriver .
Use a bigger screwdriver. I assume you’re installing this as preventive maintenance?
Hey Dre Dan, if my orange check valve in still intact (mostly), should I be popping it inwards with the screwdriver before installing the plug? Or will it press in enough to seal?
Is it ok to knock the check valve out if the intake is still on the engine? I assume it is since the check valve dissapears into the engine own most of the time anyway. 2:59
Yes you’re right. It disappears on its own most of the time anyway. We haven’t heard of anyone having issues knocking it pit and installing the kit.
Ok, thanks for the quick reply.
So there's no need to purchase a new intake if you install this fix kit?
That’s correct!
Thank you bud this saved me a ton
Glad to hear that! We had a guy recently get a quote for $653 for a manifold replacement. I told him $75 and half an hour’s worth of work and you can do it yourself.
i just acquired a free a 14 sonic ltz 1.4t with 180k miles as a beater gas saver for work. was running rough but after all around tune up. plugs, coil pack, thermostat, filter and clean airbox, MAF and a radiator. got all the codes cleared and been running now 1200 miles and its developed an intermittent issue when coming to down to a stop/idle where it will run rough and act choked up and threw p1101 code. diaphragm on the cover possibly has a vacuum hard to tell or intermittent. cant tell if orange valve in intake is present or not its hard to see because its sits back in the bay of the sonic but did try an clean has a lot of build up/dirty. does have some oil seepage around what I'm thinking are turbo oiler lines possibly? and a weird/rough non miss kind of idle. I'm thinking of getting your kit pulling cleaning intake and installing. seems like it will only help prevent a pcv issue is one isn't present at the moment. any thoughts?
I would just throw the kit on with that mileage. Even if it’s just for preventive maintenance.
If you break the check valve out with the intake on your car do you need to fish it out? Or can you just leave it in there?
It fails on its own that way and never seems to cause any issues, so I don’t think it would cause an issue if you caused it to fail
Put the pipes/tuding on your work desk when you are cutting of the pieces with the knife. You butchered that attempt to cut them off easily. A very high chance to cut your fingers.
Other than that, your video was great.
Thank you
I noticed that too looking back. Nonetheless, this is the old install video. The updated in-car install video has been available for a few months now and it’s a much better install video.
You should remove the intake because the pcv system leaves a hard residue around the valve that will need scraped AND your intake will be full of oil like half a quarter or more its 6 simple bolts oh and you might be able to see what your doing
It’s certainly an option but not necessary. The manifold fills up with oil when the PCV system isn’t working correctly, and that eventually vaporizes off and disappears.
The hard residue is caused by long term use of low quality oil, and scraping can be done with the optional install tools option, which includes a custom made steel bristle brush that can be attached to a drill. It is very effective.
Nothing wrong with removing the manifold, but it does add a couple of hours to the repair.
Can anyone explain to me why GM put that check valve in the intake manifold to begin with?
Cost.
Great stuff, about to order the kit. But I would like to run a catch can with the system. Where about would be the best place to splice that in? Right before the check valve? Thanks!
I have a catch can adapter kit available now in the drop-down options that makes the splicing easy. It would go after the T fitting.
Will a bad pcv system cause oil in my throttle body?
Yes. Using low quality oil will also.
Hi..why should we break the original oem sealing (orange one inside the manifold)? If all the oem system is still ok, couldnt we just install this kit to prevent future issues keeping the original orange seal and only when that seal breaks we would install the seal pin that comes in the kit...?? Tks
I suppose you could do that, but I’m not entirely sure why you would. Wouldn’t hurt, but I wouldn’t trust the OEM check valve either.
what are the problems if the check valve is put on wrong?
I just replaced by camshaft cover after the diaphragm was ruptured. Found your video and decided to check the check valve and it is long gone. The area is full of oil and carbon. Will the plug/epoxy stick to all that crud down there?
No. It has to be cleaned, and you can do that with the brush add-on to the kit and some brake clean.
3:00 so if the check valve is there and the intake is on the car, you just break off the orange check valve and it just stays broken off floating within the intake manifold?
If that’s what you end up doing, the check valve flap would drop into the inside of the intake manifold and would get consumed by the engine. This is what happens when the check valve fails on its own, so you’d basically be forcing it to fail early. I haven’t heard of any issues arising from people doing this, but if you’re at all concerned about it, you could pull the manifold and shake the flap out.
Is this kit CARB approved? Will the car pass smog?
This kit has not gone through any application process to receive approval from any governing bodies. It's a kit of parts, and it's up to each owner to determine its suitability for their purposes and use it in a manner consistent with state and federal regulations.
If you have additional questions on this topic, please reach out to me directly via the chat function on the cruzekits site.
I've got the kit in the way. Unfortunately my valve cover vacuum regulator failed so I have one of those coming too.
Why the plug? I know there is a check valve there but the plug doesn't look dig enough to totally block the orifice.
The plug completely covers the center hole and the surrounding hole. Its main purpose is to hold the epoxy in place while it cures. The epoxy then bonds the plug to the manifold and creates a permanent blockage.
Well I got my kit installed and definitely need some lube on the 5/8 hose fittings
It may not of fit perfect but it's close enough that it doesn't matter.
You posted "This PCV fix kit is intended to be installed with the intake manifold off the car." I think you meant to say "This PCV fix kit is intended to be installed with the intake manifold on the car."
Yes. It’s intended to be installed with the manifold on the car. If I said that somewhere, that was unintended.
I now see where I said that. I’ll correct it. Thank you!!
What if my intake still has the orange nipple
Showing?
cruzekits.com/pages/frequently-asked-questions
if anybody wants to practice before putting in the plug,practice with a pipe cleaner
The direction of the t fitting is 100% supposed to flow away from the t fitting right? Car is still kinda idling bad
Yes, and if car is idling bad, that means there’s a large vacuum leak somewhere.
Okay thank you for your help!
What size catch can is the adapter kit compatible with?
5/8”
i have opel meriva b 1.4 turbo 120hp. engine b14nel . im in europe . is this work for me ?
Yes, this will work. But please use the updated instruction video. If your intake manifold looks the same or similar, it will work.
Just installed mine got to the very end and my t fitting snapped.. can’t find one anywhere what is the exact name of that t fitting??
Sorry it’s the angled y fitting
@@zacwarren3162 that’s custom made. I have my own nylon injection mold for it and I get it manufactured to my spec.
Shoot me a message through the site and I can get a replacement out to you.
@@AndreiDPop ok I will.. anything I can use in the meantime? I need my car for work tomorrow haha
Installed this kit hoping it would solve my exhaust smoking issue but it didn’t. Whenever I start the car and take off it leaves a cloud of smoke behind. Also noticed if I slow down and speed back up the turbo will spool up and then when I let go of the speed it will leave a cloud of smoke behind. Put new ZZP turbo on, new intake, new valve cover. What am I missing?? Do I need a catch can perhaps??
Is the valve cover an OEM valve cover? How many miles on the turbo and which one? Have you done a compression test?
Catch can won’t solve your problem.
Donde puedo comprar este kid?
Do you recommend porting the intake manifold ?
Question after your kit install what about pvc vent on valve cover. Replace dont worry about it or ?.?
Replace the valve cover with an OEM valve cover if the vent is sucking in or blowing out air.
Can I use my shop vac to suck out the old check valve?
Where can you buy the kit? or any purchase link?
Cruzekits.com
Good evening please I have some issues with my Opel zafira tourer 1.4 Turbo 2016 the engine do overheating oil is escaping from intake manifold to turbo. Please and please what is the solution
Thanks
Also I have installed PVC 1 but oil still escaped to turbo
do you think that after you plug the hole, that you could pack the hole with jb weld
You don’t need much epoxy to get that sealed up. I would not recommend adding more than shown in the video.
Where is the information for the catch can plumbing?
what happens if you brake a nipple on thebypass solenoied
Can i install this kit if the orange check valve still in tbe manifold as a proactive measure? If so how do you get it out?
Yes. You can break the tip off the old check valve with a flathead screwdriver.
Is there any way I can contact you to show you the problems of my Chevy Cruze I just recently got it and it has problems with it
you never explained why you can't leave a gap at 23:20.... I have no idea how easily you twisted that on.. I just spent like 45 mins trying to close the gap until I said screw it and it was "good enough"...it looks like its going to work fine... I tried to take off the part to lube it up more but try as I might I could not get the dang thing off... so there is a small 2-3 mm gap but it feels very tight.
If you have too much of a gap, the T fitting gets pushed too far to the passenger side and you won’t be able to clear the fuel pressure regulator and get the line underneath it.
Did you use gloves, and silicone spray on the fittings, and insert in a twisting motion?
As long as you can clear the 5/16” line off the T fitting underneath the fuel line, you’ll be fine.
@@AndreiDPop I ended up taking a screw driver and twisting back and forth for like a hour and finally got one of the fittings off... this time i lubed the barb with silicone o ring grease and it slid on like nothing ..i dont have the energy now to try and redo the part that connects to the turbo inlet hopefully the tiny gap on those ends is ok... omg my arms hurt now trying to get that one piece off.
@@AndreiDPop and no i didnt initially use any grease I used some 3 way multipurpose oil thinking i could get it on.... it almost closed the gap but was super hard to put on... the part that connects to the air intake had a small 2-3mm gap and that's the piece I spent around a hour twisting and pulling till I pulled it off... my god! tired... It looks like it'll clear the fuel injector tube if i rotating the clamps down... i am going to attempt to finish this tommorow with light out.
Is it necessary to let the JB weld cure for a full day? Did you consider the JB Quick Weld?
Need to give it 15 hours to dry. Jb quick weld doesn’t have the heat tolerance and chemical resistance needed for long term use inside a PCV system.
I want to order this but use a oil catch can I've ordered off amazon. Where would I install this with the add on parts that come with this kit?
You could use the shock tower or the firewall.
@@AndreiDPop where should this tap into the 3.4 kit?
@@ImaLoneWolfintheWoods you use the straight T fitting that came in the little bag instead of the angled one shown in this video. You run the 9” hose into the T fitting, then the 10” hose from the T fitting to the catch can (trim as needed). Then you run the 22” hose from the catch can to the turbo inlet. Everything else is installed the same.
Would this work on a 2012 Chevy Cruze Eco?
Yes! I have a 2012 Cruze Eco also, and I have developed and tested all of the pcv fix kits on my car.
Do you have to remove the manifold to install? I’ve done that once and don’t want to again if avoidable. I’ve replaced everything but the turbo over the past 4 years and still have P0299.
You don’t need to remove the manifold for this kit.
Hello i really need help. Theres 3 different kits with different components which one is the correct one?
They all work, but the v3.4 is by far the most popular one. If you’re not sure which one to get, just get the v3.4.
How do you know when the check valve fails again? Or how many miles should you go to replace?
Similar symptoms to when the OEM one fails. More oil consumption, external leaks.
If the check valve is in the correct location you should normally get around 30,000-50,000 miles out of one based on what others have reported.
What if I just close that manifold checkvalve and push all that engine pressure into the intake hose?
Then you loose the vacuum on the crankcase which will cause a loss of fuel economy, increase in oil consumption, increase in emissions, and increase in external oil leaks.
The low tension piston rings need that vacuum to function correctly which is why we restore it by adding an external check valve once the old hole is plugged up.
she says when it starts it rev high, then when it goes down it stalls?
Could be a bad evap purge valve, could be a huge vacuum leak. Without looking further into it, I wouldn’t be able to tell you. If you remove the check valve and plug up the two hose ends with something, you essentially bypass the kit and you can isolate if you have a large vacuum leak somewhere in the pcv system or crankcase. Otherwise you’ll have to look into other potential causes.
will check thanks
@@AndreiDPop
So how can you add a oil catch can unto it with this setup? Please and thanks.
There’s a catch can adapter kit for sale on the cruzekits site.
You mount the catch can on the shock tower and use the other T fitting instead of the one in the kit.
When you say 3.4 did you mean 2?
2.4 ?
@@donaldbenck7408 no, I have a V1, V2.1, and V3.4 pcv fix kit available.
[A14NET] Opel Astra J 1.4 T LPG
I bought it, and iI'm going to install it today. My biggest fear is the epoxy "glue failure" over time and with high temperature. What about the little plastic cap? Can it go in the Turbocharger across the new bypass pipe?
This epoxy is rated for over 500F. Mix it correctly and it won’t fail.
The clip has no way to make it into the turbo.
@@AndreiDPop thanks for answering
hi, would the vacuum booster check valve fit instead of the one used in the video? I hope google translate is correct
No. That check valve is not rated for pcv deposits, for clean air only.
Am I correct that the check valve will not fix a high vacuum at idle? It only controls high pressure from the turbo boost?
High vacuum on the crankcase would be caused by a defective valve cover. The check valve simply allows the manifold to pull vacuum on the crankcase while not pushing boost into the crankcase when you’re under boost.
@@AndreiDPop Perfect. Those cheap valve covers from Amazon are junk. Going to pony up for an official GM one. My Cruze kit works great but the high vacuum is creating other issues.
@@kmjsuperfly1 yep I see this reported a lot with aftermarket valve covers.
I just wanted to know where do you order another Tee fitting.So I can buy it for cheap price.
I had a nylon injection mold made specifically so I could manufacture them for this kit. You can’t get them anywhere else. Did you break one?