Loved the video man, getting into being a repair tech from a pool tech and I can seem to grasp everything but the electrical portion for running lights, automation, timers and the like. Would love to see a part 2.
Thanks for the video. I want to connect the pump or some "signal" to the Pentair heat pump "relay" points. My hope is that will tell the heater to start only when the pump is running. How can i do this?
your ground and neutral are separate because this is considered a sub panel, at the main disconnect the ground and neutrals are in fact together. they have to be by code. it has nothing to do with older homes.
Just a note on your terminology for the conduit/raceway; what your showing is not Smurf type, Smurf tubing is a blue flexible tubing for indoor use only. What you have in your photo is known as Liquidtight, or technically LFNC. note you can use the beefier metallic reinforced LFMC. Note that the connectors are available in various grades of quality, the ones you have are of the lower grade, you can opt to spend a little more and buy the better quality ones that have metallic threads and metal parts, primarily you need the strength for the connectors on the pumps. Pay attention to wire temperature ratings as the ends of the raceways may be exposed to hotter temps above ground, in the sunlight. A 'sweep' is a term, but electricians will call it a 90 or a 45 or whatever the radius is, because electrical bends are 'of course' not like a water pipe 90s. The length of a run does not determine the conduit size, rather it is the number of conductors needed in the conduit that determines the conduit size. Granted, 1” conduit is always easier to pull through, and I recommend 1" if you want to spend just a little more, especially if your have more than 270 degrees of bends. But reduce it to 3/4 above ground. 3/4" conduit is fine for everything except maybe the feeder to the subpanel, that would be better in 1". Refer to, read and understand article 680 of the NEC before attempting any pool electrical. Otherwise great videos.
Your explanation of 240v is not quiet correct. The two legs are are from the same set of windings in generator and from the same transformer on the street. Its called "split phase" ... because the single phase is split at the transformer by the neutral, so 120v line neutral, and 240v line to line (notice i did not say phase to phase, because it is a single phase). So they are in-phase, not 180 degrees out of phase. If they were 180 degrees out of phase, there would be two phases, and they would cancel, not give a higher voltage. Also, neutral and ground must be only connected in the main service panel.
I think i am really close to understanding single phase 240v. Is it true that basically since the neutral rises from the halfway point of the transformer then when you go all the way to the other end, so hot to hot, or red to black, its almost as if one of what we are calling hots is really just the neutral? In other words the second hot for 240 is basically just the neutral that's moved all the way down the transformer instead of interrupting it halfway like the regular neutral for single phase 120 volt?
Wonderful work with this lessons this should be seen for all installers thanks!!!!!!
Loved the video man, getting into being a repair tech from a pool tech and I can seem to grasp everything but the electrical portion for running lights, automation, timers and the like. Would love to see a part 2.
Part two is uploading as we speak, enjoy! Glad you liked part one. We also have a playlist consisting of videos on automation.
Thanks for the video. I want to connect the pump or some "signal" to the Pentair heat pump "relay" points. My hope is that will tell the heater to start only when the pump is running. How can i do this?
your ground and neutral are separate because this is considered a sub panel, at the main disconnect the ground and neutrals are in fact together. they have to be by code. it has nothing to do with older homes.
Just a note on your terminology for the conduit/raceway; what your showing is not Smurf type, Smurf tubing is a blue flexible tubing for indoor use only. What you have in your photo is known as Liquidtight, or technically LFNC. note you can use the beefier metallic reinforced LFMC. Note that the connectors are available in various grades of quality, the ones you have are of the lower grade, you can opt to spend a little more and buy the better quality ones that have metallic threads and metal parts, primarily you need the strength for the connectors on the pumps. Pay attention to wire temperature ratings as the ends of the raceways may be exposed to hotter temps above ground, in the sunlight. A 'sweep' is a term, but electricians will call it a 90 or a 45 or whatever the radius is, because electrical bends are 'of course' not like a water pipe 90s. The length of a run does not determine the conduit size, rather it is the number of conductors needed in the conduit that determines the conduit size. Granted, 1” conduit is always easier to pull through, and I recommend 1" if you want to spend just a little more, especially if your have more than 270 degrees of bends. But reduce it to 3/4 above ground. 3/4" conduit is fine for everything except maybe the feeder to the subpanel, that would be better in 1". Refer to, read and understand article 680 of the NEC before attempting any pool electrical. Otherwise great videos.
Thank you for sharing. Excellent video.
Great and informative video. Thanks
Your explanation of 240v is not quiet correct. The two legs are are from the same set of windings in generator and from the same transformer on the street. Its called "split phase" ... because the single phase is split at the transformer by the neutral, so 120v line neutral, and 240v line to line (notice i did not say phase to phase, because it is a single phase). So they are in-phase, not 180 degrees out of phase. If they were 180 degrees out of phase, there would be two phases, and they would cancel, not give a higher voltage. Also, neutral and ground must be only connected in the main service panel.
I think i am really close to understanding single phase 240v. Is it true that basically since the neutral rises from the halfway point of the transformer then when you go all the way to the other end, so hot to hot, or red to black, its almost as if one of what we are calling hots is really just the neutral? In other words the second hot for 240 is basically just the neutral that's moved all the way down the transformer instead of interrupting it halfway like the regular neutral for single phase 120 volt?
What Guage wire was shown in the pentair easy touch load center
this is great. thanks alot
Awesome!
☆☆☆☆☆