Charging a battery from an outboard
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- čas přidán 1. 04. 2017
- Adding a regulator / rectifier to an outboard motor so you can charge a battery is a relatively simple job. You need a lighting coil to supply an AC current that the rectifier will convert to a DC current for storage in the battery.
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this guy is the best, the only channel you need for outboards
Thank you! I unknowingly bought an outboard without charging capabilaties and thought I had made a big mistake. This saved me much time and headache.
I have an 73 9.5 johnson what wires produced your hot AC current
Thanks again I was quoted $280 to fit a rectifier to my 8HP Yamaha and after watching your vid I purchased one for $40 and fitted it myself in 5 mins
Nice work! Glad to hear you managed to save yourself so much money. :)
Hi Dangar i have a2005 evinrudr j40rlsoc i want to add an starter but only four wiers come from under fly wheel. How do i conet
eric onealetorchon It gets expensive. You have to have a different flywheel, starter, and electrical components. If you can find a parts motor for cheap do that. New OEM parts will cost more than the outboard is worth most times
Can u tell where to purchase the rectifier..I'm looking for Yamaha 30hp hmhs engine
a honest well price shop is what you want and that one doesnt seem like its the best option
Just bought a boat with a '94 20hp Yamaha. Green wires are right where you showed them and I'm saving a fortune thanks to this video. Subscribed.
Thanks mate, glad the vid helped you. :)
Every Yamaha question I have always leads me here.
Perfect timing - I was just mentioning a Regulator/Rectifier to a my nephew for his little tinny...
Once again Stu to the rescue !!!!
Thanks Jason, it is a perfect little upgrade that is easy to do and doesn't cost much.
Exactly what I've been looking for! I have a pull-start Yamaha 25hp 4-cycle that came without a battery charger so I've been charging the batter via solar panel after every trip. Yesterday on the water, my deep-cycle battery crapped out just at dusk, leaving me a couple miles from the marina on busy Chesapeake Bay without running lights. Made it home safely and today, after looking under the engine cover, I've found the two green wires (plugged) just waiting for R/R installation. Thanks so much for posting your video - it's solid gold! Cheers!
You're welcome Arnie, glad the video helped you. I don't think I did it in this video but you might also want to add a 10 amp fuse between the battery and the R/R.
Awesome vid champion, I was quoted $160 plus labour to fit it!!!
I bought one for $60 and with your help fitted it in 5min.... Legend!!!!
tip : now connect the front socket on the engine back into the +_ 12 line regulated, then when night fishing connect your handy spotlight 12v into that front socket, after done disconnect replace the plastic plug to seal it off again, makes for a good 12v accessory plug. :) my 2.5 hp had no ac coil, so i added one, used bridge rectifier, lm317, 2n3055, and a zener 12v witha adjustable pot, set to 12.9v , whalla...12v on a 2.5hp mariner, at 4 amps :) works like a charm. good video as always Dangar.
Great video Stu! That whole install looked like a factory job when you were done. Didn't know it was this easy to add a charging circuit to an outboard that wasn't equipped with one.
Thanks mate, yeah, it's a pretty simple part install. It's always nice for something to be easier that you think it is going to be for a change! ;)
thanks for your videos mate. I had wondered if this was possible but was actually watching your other video about unseizing an outboard when I saw this. you've got a great balance of describing things in detail for novices yet pushing ahead to get to a point. thanks for sharing your tallents and taking the time to make these videos.
You're welcome mate, glad you are enjoying the videos. :)
Every time I have a question for my Yamaha outboard, I hope it leads me to this guy. Thanks for your help on this and for the help on changing my impeller! Keep up the good work!
Glad to help!
Thanks Stu, love your videos, I’ve learned so much from watching, You explain in a manner that everyone can understand. Wish you would do more of these tutorials again
Another excellent video 👍 I used your bilge pump installation video to get my bilge pump installed, now you have an excellent video on powering battery/ accessory from an outboard. I just want to run a nav light for nightime. Hopefully I won't need a battery, I will just try wiring to the accessory wire provided on the converter. Cheers again 👍
Hey, thanks alot for the support. Have a 6hp yamaha on an old aluminum fishing boat, currently restoring it. This is exactly what I needed and ended up saving me over $100!
You're welcome Kyle, glad the vid helped. :)
Thanks stu,this helped me out alot.found my motor was wired up wrong when i looked at it.now fully charging the batteries.
cheers mate.
You're welcome Alan, glad the video helped you sort your problem out. :)
Another excellent video Stu, easy to understand and simple to follow through , many many thanks, john
You're welcome, glad you liked it.
great, simple, i can figure this out now- much appreciated from Canada!
You're welcome!
Hi Stu, I'm a new subscriber, thanks so much for your videos, so helpful
Doing my own repair work and service on my second hand boat I brought,
Just from watching your videos,
Thanks again
Keep the videos coming
I love your videos so much. You are always the first place I go to for advice, you usually have a video. If not you always reply. Really thanks for these!!
Also do you know if a 1969 65hp merc and 1972 80hp merc have interchangeable throttle cables? I switched the 80 onto the 65 hp cables and it seems to have a much higher rpm than before. Like the cable is too short and keeping the throttle open, dont really even need the warm up lever. Boat still runs and drives, but is a large clunk when put into gear.
Hey Nick, I'm not 100% but I would imagine they should be interchangeable. I would measure the travel of the end section from fully retracted to fully extended and see if they are the same, that is the critical measurement.
I will have to check that measurement tomorrow. I got the cables to fit and I took the boat out fine, but when I shift from forward back to neutral the cable doesn't close fully to the neutral position and the rpms are very high. Then while it is still in high rpms I can move the throttle down with my hand on the engine. So it seems to have the reach, and is a little stuck? I just saw your video on lubricating the cables. Im going to see if i can just apply some if that will help, if not will try what your video suggest. Thanks!!!!
I cant get enough of these vids.....I hope u never run out of ideas. Hope u dont mind but I think Im in love with your calendar girl in the background. Wow.......
Thanks mate. The list of suggested video ideas grows faster than I can film them so I think we'll be alright for a while. Unfortunately she has now left me, but April has arrived so that's okay. ;)
Thank you for posting this install Stu!!! I needed this to make sure I was doing this properly, good on ya man. Old video revival 😅
Thanks Danger! Learned quite a bit and I appreciate you making the video.
Legend! Such an informative video. Thanks mate!!!
Very informative video, you save a lot of people so much money. Thanks.
Nice job mate. Gonna do this on my 8hp once I get the thing running!
-Jack
Thanks Scotty! :)
Thanks, I really appreciate the clarity.
You're welcome Ken.
Thanks! Exactly what I needed to know! Your drawings are very helpful
I will buy a shirt because you really have helped me soo much and i want to show my gratitude. Thanks youre ACE
Really great videos, and you've inspired me to service my own boat. Could you recommend some must have tools for the job?
This was absolutely amazing. Thank you so much!!!!! Helped me like crazy just to understand the basic concept.
Very helpful as usual Stu! Thank you.
Really helpful and comprehensive- thanks!
great job stu as always you explain it in should a easy way cheers
Thanks Jimmy, glad you like it. :)
Great video Stu..easy to follow and a cool addition to add that functionality to a smaller motor. Nice calendar too : )
Thanks Mark, it is a nice easy install, that's for sure. We buy enough stuff from Wurth, it's about time they gave us a calendar!
Dangar Marine used to use Wurth products when I worked on Swiss made monorails. Even though we are in the US they specified only their chemicals were to be used on the trains. We would go through many cans of their Rost off penetrating oil. I loved the smell of that stuff!
I know that this is an older video, but just last week I was wondering it this very idea was even possible for my 9.9 hp Mercury outboard.
I'm a great outboard mechanic, just not the best at electronics!
Now to investigate whether my little "kicker" has the lighning coil installed already, or not.
Thanks Stu, I really miss your outboard videos, even though I understand your desire to move forward with your new trawler.
Float safe!
Did you learn any more on this? I have a 20hp 2 stroke and want to add a charger. Mostly for running lights and electric start. Maybe depth finder.
@@Anthony-du3he I've looked under the flywheel of my 9.9hp Merc, and I don't believe that mine has the needed part. So I'm out of luck.
😮30 hp etech marine engine does not charge the battery. What can I do? I wish you a good day, my friend
Vids like this is why i watch utube....thank you
Thanks John, glad you liked it. :)
ok!! thanks for the quick response..
I was wondering how to do that. My brain just got bigger. Thanks for the brain juice dude!
Not bigger, more efficient, lol.
I know this video is 5 yrs old but its Awsome! I ordered the rectifier and a charge coil. My 1973 has external coils and an empty spot for the charge coil! Going to be nice to charge the battery a bit
Thank you Thank you!! Will buy you a beer next time I go to Oz
this isn't Lesley, but Ken George, i use her computer, - i like your videos, and for me the diagrams are as important as seeing the cabling going in. The explanation while drawing it is a necessary part of the vid. please dont leave them out in any similar vids. I appreciate it. well done
Cool, thanks
Nice job stu. Thanks
Thanks George. :)
Thanks Stu, very informative as always. Clear and concise. Keep up the good work mate. You have a good grounding in electronics too by the looks. It sure helps doesn't it.
Stu, I think you need a new battery in your wheel clock in the background there mate, I noticed the second hand just bouncing. Mine does the same sometimes when the battery is low. LOL.
All the best and Cheers,
Bruce.
Thanks Bruce, glad you liked the video. :)
Nice work Stu.
Thanks Will! :)
Very helpful thank you
Thanks for making this vid mate Its helped us out big time Cool channel You have a new sub
Thanks mate, glad the vid helped you out. :)
Thanks for the video , i know now what to do . I have a Tohatsu 9.8 Hp fourstroke 2005 . Greetings from The Netherlands
Graag gedaan! :)
Great video, like always.
Thanks Terrence.
cheers m8 helps heaps as i am planning on running led lights and add ons thank you m8
You're welcome, glad the video helped you. :)
Thank you, well done
Great vid. Super clear. Thanks, Cheers
great vid bro thanks. tis the season for playin with the boat. peace.
Thanks mate, yes, finally time to swap summers. :)
That’s kool. Thanks for the informative video.
Thanks for sharing
Nice work stu
Thanks Dean!
awesome as always
Thanks Greg!
Hi Dangar Stu love your videos Just added a Bridge Rectifier to my Yamaha 30 Hp nearly identical install as you showed on your video. Point to note I bought a 50 amp Rectifier off Ebay for A$5.00 does the job nicely A fully sealed unit and works perfectly Cheers Phil
Hey Phil, glad you like the vids. :) Yes, there definitely are some cheap alternatives to the original parts out there.
I'd love to see a pic of the rectifier you got (is it also a voltage regulator?), brand/part number.
Gogle Plus Sucks send me your email address and I will forward you the pic and a wiring diagram mine actually cost A$1.99 haha
As always great job ! ;)
Thanks Artur! :)
Hi Stu, love following your progress and informative, entertaining videos rebuilding Renko.. esp look forward to the chook segment at the end! I've just watched your video on fitting a rectifier on an outboard to charge a battery. I have a 22 ft twin keel yacht built in the 70's I'm restoring. It once had a small inboard diesel but that was long gone by the time I got her. It came with a 6 hp Evinrude outboard which looks like has been around the block a few times, is a bit smoky but goes ok. My question is what do you reckon is the smallest size outboard that can realistically deliver a charge to a boat house battery if run for a few hours and how would you link that with solar panels in the system. Only want to run lights, depth etc for short periods. Cheers, Steve
Amazing tutorials thank you so much!!
I have a main ( starter battery ) and a sneaker motor battery. can i use a second regulator to charge my second battery ? My motor is a 70 hp Yamaha 2 stroke:) thanks in advance
Hey mate, great video ! Perfect for what I’m looking at doing! Just wondering do you see any need to put an inline fuse in the line before the battery ? Thanks again!
Any idea on the DC wattage out from the rectifier? I'm wondering about using this to feed back into an up-converter to charge a 24v battery system that runs an electric trolling motor... but I'm guessing it won't output enough to make that worthwhile. Thanks for posting your work... really helpful stuff.
Hi Great information, thanks. If the outboard is used without the rectifier attached to a battery will this damage the motor or rectifier? Thanks for your help :)
Would you recommend putting a fuse between the rectifier/regulator and the battery when doing a install like this?
Hey stu, any chance you will be doing a vid on converting a tiller outboard to forward control? love the vids mate, keep it up
Yes! I was just talking to a friend about that on the weekend as he needs to do that job on his boat. Stay tuned!
InlineLocally2037 has
Great video Stu. My '86 Johnson 90HP V4 is calling for a $350+ reg/rec part. I am thinking it seems like I could just use a $25 Yamaha 100HP/Mercury 90HP reg/rec instead. Any thoughts on this idea? Stator I have is supposed to be a 3/9A. Any advice on what to check or watch for?
Hi,
can you give us a link for the rectifier?
Great job btw!
thanks, from U.S.
Hi mate i wish i had known about this when i had my enduro ,always taking the battery out and it was a pain as i had set it under the side consul ,oh well boats been sold now but it would have been nice take care .
I have a 15hp Mercury. It’s got some wires there. Hoping this works!
Thanks, good vid.
Thanks mate. :)
Fantastic
Thanks Stu for a very clear explanation. One question: Is the rectifier sophisticated enough to prevent overcharging when running the outboard for many hours into a small, in my case, LiFePO4, battery? If not, I guess a DC - DC convert it would be required?
Great vid. Is there any reason you didn't just hook the fused wire to the other plug you unhooked? All the wires are there and could be put to use. Thanks.
Thanks Tim, yes, could certainly have done that, but I doubt it would every be used in this particular case. It is a good idea though and certainly no harm in doing it.
Hi Stu, Great vids mate, l have converted a 1991 40hp Johnson tiller to forward controls and removed the gas assist ram, dismantled the ram and converted it to hydraulic tilt trim using a remote pump unit from an old chrysler motor, l now need to charge the battery from my motor but have no idea if the motor has the ability to charge or if it is convertible. Could you wise me up on if and how it could be done.
Cheers Plussy.
Hi , excellent information. What cable gauge do you used for the battery on the Yamaha F15 outboard ?
Hey Stu . Firstly thanks for your content , I am not really a boaty but I have been watching your Renko build since the start. I have recently brought a little tinny and I have installed a regulator rectifier , what size fuse is recommend or what is the amperage output of the regulator rectifier is ? I'm thinking less then 10amps?. Can I get away with a blade fuse ? I have midi fuse already but the lowest rated fuse for those is around 25amps . cheers .
Thanks for good information. Isn't there any concern of overcharging?
THANK YOU !!!!
You're welcome Luis.
Once the battery is fully charged under engine power by the regulator what stops the regulator from sending any more volts to the battery and where does this excess voltage go if not to the battery?
My understanding is that the regulator sends out around 13.8v to the battery. If the battery it is flat say, 11.5v it will accept a charge but once the battery is at 13.8v there is no potential difference so it stop accepting charge naturally, it isn't something the rectifier does. Smart chargers for the workbench sense the voltage do change the charge rate dynamically but that isn't something an outboard does.
Great video. Could you show how to test if such a retifier is working. Im a bit unsure if mine is working. Best regards Henrik (Denmark)
hi stu I was going to do this but went for a sola setup instead which works really well
Solar is a bad way to go. I'm planning to add a panel to the Green Machine some time and do a video on that too.
Solar is NFG for keeping the lights on at night
I have a 2006 25hp. I followed your steps on installing a rectifier/regulator as you performed on the 20hp Yamaha but my voltage is around 8 bolts at idle and around 50+ bolts at wot. I connected to the 2 green wires as these are the wires from the exciter coils. Not sure if there is something that is missing but your help would be appreciated. (BTW, I did purchase the same rectifier you did, as that is what the engine called for.)
helo mate thanks for the knowledge videos.
You're welcome. :)
Once again a great video mate.I really enjoy all of them.Glad you made it clear to the viewers that the higher the rpm the more voltage you'll get in the battery compared to at idle.Quick question from me is,where would you recommend I source a good workshop manual for my 30hp yamaha cv preferably in book form?Thanks for all your time and effort you put into the vids. Fabian.
About the only way to get a read service manual is to order it as a part through a Yamaha dealer, but some have contracts that prevent them from selling them unfortunately. Otherwise, try finding a pdf one on readmanual.com or tradebit.com and then get it ring bound at an Office Works or something. That's what all my printed ones are.
Cheers mate.Ill have a look.
Is there any specific advantage to grounding the motor to the rectifier and battery, vs. just connecting the output leads to the wires to the battery? I'd think NOT connecting to the motor would lessen any chance of charge eating through an aluminum boat, or even parts of the outboard? Also, do you think the outboard will actually push 10 amps, hence not using the fused connection? And do you have a fuse somewhere in the battery hookup in case there's a short?
Thanks for another great video.
RichE
You can't really avoid having the engine block as ground as the motors own factory component rely on that, the trick is to make sure you then have a good wired connection back to the battery negative so that the path of least resistance doesn't take the current through the hull. It's a good question about the fuse and one I was thinking about too. It would be interesting to find out the maximum current output of this regulator and put a fuse in line. I guess they don't traditionally because they are connected to the battery leads that are unfused as they need to supply the starter motor. Given these wires are much lighter though they could use some protection from a short to stop them from melting.
Hi Stu I live on the coast of British Columbia Canada. I recently got hold of an ancient 1993 40hp electric start Mariner that I've done some work on and that runs pretty well. I plan to install a 16-watt LCD search lite, which draws 1.5 amps at 12 volts, on my open skiff. Eventually also a VHF radio and a depth sounder. If I find that I have to run any distance at nite, will the present rectifier regulator charge system be adequate or will I need to beef it up somehow?
Very clear thank U.
You're welcome Jon. :)
Many thanks for this video. I just bought a Yamaha 15hp 2 Stroke and it has a rectifier/Regulator fitted. I have started it up and connected my meter to the Red output on the rectifier and earthed the black on the meter. At Idle I am only getting about 5v DC but as I advance the throttle it advances to about 9v at 20 % throttle. I don't want to run the engine too hard out of the water on Muffs. Is this what I should expect ie do you think I will be getting 13 + volts at full throttle. I have not yet connected my batter and was only testing on the meter
Perfect explanation! Why isn’t that plug used though? It would make sense to wire the regulator into the back of that then onto the battery. So it’s an easy disconnect when taking the motor off. I’ve been looking for a plug but doesn’t seem to be one??
You need to do a video installing one of these on an electric start motor and if you have a battery switch where you cut the batteries off or just run battery one car battery to or both batteries if it makes any difference of having that and tell if it will charge both batteries at once or if you have to switch between both batteries. Keep up the good learning videos
I have a '93 Evinrude 25hp. , no green wires coming from under the flywheel, 2 sets of two. One pair are tan, and brown with yellow stripe, the other pair are white, and black with white stripe. Any ideas? I got no manual just bought the motor, starts and runs great. Your videos have been very helpful thanks. Any help is appreciated.
Hey Stu,
Great video, Ive recently purchased a boat with a 2011 2 stroke yamaha 30hp and want to charge a battery the same way. Is the reg/rec you used suitable ? if not is there somewhere i can find the right one ? Cheers from Brisbane.
Thanks for the video. Question: 1996 Johnson 175 Ocean Pro Looper, I pulled the original stator off and it had lost some goo, but still ohm'd out at 55ohms. Replaced it anyway, with a Rareelectrical brand, which began at 55ohms, but after a few hours of running it, the ignition died. It would only run while continuing to hold ignition switch on to supply power. Ohm'd it out, and it came back at 13 ohms. Replaced with another rareelectrical Stator, verified correct ohms. Few hours of running it, and same issue occurred. Ohm'd the second new stator and it came back at 23 ohms, well below spec. I have seen that a weak battery and bad connections can cause a current issue, but I'm not certain this was the case. I believe my issue may be the addition of a large 10" LCD Sonar, and the addition of a Kicker Marine Stereo and two 8" speakers. Could this be too much current draw on a 35amp rectifier and stator? Could that extra load cause excessive heat and stator failure? The battery did appear to have some loss of power at the times of failure, to the point that after several cranks, the starter had difficulty obtaining sufficient rpm to turnover. The waterpump, thermostats, and temp sensors have all been replaced, and engine temp at the heads is in the 150's to mid 160's after running continuously above 4000 rpm. So I don't believe it is an overheat issue, verified with an IR gun at the heads. Also, new CDI powerpack, OEM coils, OEM wires, CDI optical sensor, correct spark plugs, and a new starter. Basically the entire electrical system is fresh. I have a new CDI Stator and CDI Rectifier to install, but I'd sure hate to see this failure again. My plan is to isolate all the accessories to another battery, and with the install of a smart two bank battery charger, start each trip off with a fully charged battery. Have you come across this issue before? Any help would be much appreciated, and if I'm missing something, I'd sure like to get it corrected before blowing out another Stator.
The reason for replacing everything before, was the engine would go into S.L.O.W. with an overheat warning. The temp sensors were faulty and triggering around 180, as well as thermostats that weren't opening up quite soon enough. I found the engine temp actually decreased when running up around 4900-5000 rpms during stress tests. Of course, maybe that is my problem? Running it too hard? Not above 5000rpm. If nothing else, this engine will just have to live in the 4000 range and below if that will avert this Stator disaster.
Thanks for any knowledge you may share on this matter.
The existing AC out plug is a pretty convenient way to connect the battery to the motor if you don't leave the motor on the boat. They're not that expensive.
Also another one question , can i use an after market regulator exept the OEM ...and the regulator is it a posibilitie to make a problem to a generator.....thank you very much.
Hello Dangar Marine, your videos are VERY INFORMATIVE! 👌🏿👌🏿
I was wondering if I can attach a regulator rectifier to my 1974 Mercury 110 9.8hp with thunderbolt ignition being that it didn't come with one, can I piggyback one to it just as you did in THIS video?
Not sure if that motor has a charge / lighting coil under the flywheel, but if it does then sure, this would work just fine.
Hi Stu, thanks for the vidz mate , i have a Johnson 30hp pull start 1994 j30eem, do they come out with a lighting board as standard, the shop who done the service said there is a charger coil on mine, where would i find this (wiring etc) would it be under fly wheel , thank you kindly .
i have to wires comes from outboard yamaha 40 hp which one is negatives and the positive to connect them to battery? how to know