I love the tooless covers, i would like to convert my saws to tooless. When u lose your bar nut wrench all the time it really is convenient not having to get a wrench.
I have one 180C with the toolless adjustment and easy start. Initially I was very sceptical as I was only used to older pro saws. After using it a couple of years for smaller trimming work I have to say I like it. It's a lot of plastic on the cheap consumer saws but I have had no issues with it so far. Maybe explain your customers how to use it properly and how to go easy on the easy start pull. And while they are there, sell them a .50 gauge bar and chain. I "downgraded" the stock 16" bar to a .50 gauge 12" bar with yellow chain and that little saw is an awesome trimming tool.
Great video Don! I was talked into a MS270 saw with the toolless chain tightener by the dealer. Bought it new. The adjuster is satisfactory but any new saw won't have that feature. It is imperative to keep the adjustment gear CLEAN or it won't tighten the chain for beans. I also switched over to a rim sprocket drive. The chain lugs have a much better contact patch with the drive than the star wheel does. To convert to a non regular chain tightener on this model would cost over $100 in parts. I can live with occasional tightening and save the 100 bucks. Only had one failure so far - ignition module. Other than that, a pretty good machine. Keep up the great work!
Very cool! I've seen videos and read a lot of complaints about the toolless chain adjustment systems on several chainsaws. I don't have one, but anyone who does can research their chainsaw to see if there are compatible parts to convert theirs. Always great, Don. Thanks
Yea I have a Ms 180 mini boss. The tool less sucks. I'm going to go the cheaper rout and get some aftermarket parts because I don't think it's a big deal. Yea the sprocket on the cover has plastic teeth and some are missing. I hate it
I've that tool-less adjustment on my Craftsman too, and hate it. It always backs off , especially during a long cut, and tears things up. This may make me feel a little better about owning it! Thanks Don for the information, your work, and great vids. God bless. Rev. D.
I bought and installed the side adjuster fir my MS170...love it. Easier to adjust with the scrench...for me at least. That side cover seems to be the same as my MS 250 too. Cheers from NB Edit: of course I meant 'for' my MS170...but it has cut 'fir'...lol
Brilliantly useful and easy to follow. I just converted my MS181. Very easy to do following this video but found a couple of minor differences. The cover plate has just one stud hole (part 1139 640 1700) so you don’t need an extra stud or to remove the dummy stud T27). Also the small white plastic blank in the kit isn’t needed because the shroud doesn’t have a slot at the front. Also on mine the screws were T25 not T27. However the chain tensioning kit was the same and the process was as easy as pie. The easy adjustment junk went straight in the trash bin as soon as I finished 😊. 👍🏻
I just converted my 180C according to your great instructional video. The original "quick adjust" feature had become totally dysfunctional and required completely removing the side cover and manually pulling on the guide bar to tighten the chain. Thank you for the excellent instructions!
Wow, this is the answer I have been looking for. My 180c is a pain in the rear end to adjust the chain. Thanks for the parts numbers and I will soon be off to my Stihl dealer to round up what I need to do away with this poor excuse of a chain adjustment system.
Great vid, thank you! 🙂 Just made this change on my son's MS180; it is well worth the $60 for OEM parts online. The old 'Comfort' system, was allowing the chain tension to tighten while using; that made the saw get hot. Now, the chain stays at proper tension - and the side tensioner is MUCH eaasier! Thank you, for many great teaching videos!
I actually have one of each of the saws you used to demo, and I prefer the toolless adjuster. I find the pico chain (which I really like) often requires adjustment as it heats up, and on the spot adjustment is easy. I have not found any issues with bar loosening. Mostly cut birch firewood on my own property, multiple face cords per year.
I cut nearly all my wood with my 180C and Pico chain and it's a great setup. I really like the toolless adjuster too. About my only beef is that the snap down handle tends to snap back in when tightening, and you have to take your gloves off to get it open. But small annoyance. The saw gets lots of use every year as we heat with wood. I bought my son a 170 when they had a good deal last year, we'll see how that works out.
Last year I acquired a barely used MS250C as an upgrade to my MS170, very first thing I did was a switcheroo of the chain tensioner before eventually selling the 170.
I have Stihl MS260C with toolless adjustment, i think it works well. Very convenient thing. Though i'm not pro user. Must tight it well nothing more also must hold bar up position when tightening it.
Just found out that there was a screw on that sprocket and bar. My Ms 180 mini boss was a hand me down and it didn't have the screw. So it was I big pain in the but to keep on straight with everything else
What an excellent video! The quick tensioner is the absolute WORST feature of any saw ever. This is the only saw I have ever THROWN in fury while out cutting as I cannot get the chain back on. I can't tell you how many times I have just quit cutting for the day because this GD thing is impossible to get back on when you are tired and in weeds.
That’s great . We have the same issue at the golf shop with the MS271 and the MS290C the guys always grab the 271. Because the 290 has that quick adjust and weird pull cord mechanism. Wonder if both issues can be converted to the 271 type. We also prefer the old style ones even the fuel caps . But the newer ones have become easier to use . I remember when they first went to the new style fuel and oiler caps they where troublesome to get lined up to screw in
I've seen Stihl make two "improvements" to their saws--this video corrects one of them, and the fuel cap videos correct the other. Both improvements generated CZcams correction videos. Uh, nice try, Stihl, but I'm wondering about their efficacy. Perhaps your beancounters are getting out of control? As usual, another great (and necessary) video. Keep 'em coming!
Nice video! Thank you! I did that convention to my new Ms 230C before ever use it with the tooless adjustment! Having 2 nuts holding the bar I feel more secure! And looks cooler 👍😉
@@donyboy73 home town a Mom and Pop OPE switched 170 w the. 050... Over 35 years ago, bought my Dad 028 Super for Christmas based on their recommendation. Other than routine maintenance still runs strong. Keep clean, sharp chain and good fresh fuel. The now vintage case is almost worth as much as the saw! Also bought 020T as well. It's still worth a lot. Crazy.
I bought a MS180 last year without the "Toolless" adjustment. Had to look really hard to find one. They are available, at a reduced price compared to the "toolless" model.... (Also put on a 12" bar and chain. Didn't want or need a 16".)
Wouldn.t you have to remove the adjuster to flip the bar ? Very good info thanks.. On a funny note .. I had a physical and the doctor asked about the two bruises by my knees.. chains saws..... He laughed after I told him why ..good to know he said..
Hi Don. I have a Sthil Ms 181 with a screw for shield. Can you put one more screw in the mortor saw for the shield so you have two. If the answer is yes, then maybe you could show it on a video. Thank you for your educational and fantastic videos here on the channel 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🇨🇦🇩🇰. Sincerely, Lars from Denmark.
Hey Donny, love your videos btw. I wanted to know where is a good place to buy these upgraded Stihl parts from online in Canada? Also do you have a chainsaw overview on set up on bar and chain and preventive maintenance?
For a new homeowner what type of chainsaw would you recommend. I already own a stihl MS194t I love it to cut my 2 palm trees 🌴. I just don’t want to use the same saw what would you recommend? Or should I just buy a longer bar and chain for my top chainsaw ? I just don’t want to ruin my small chainsaw. I think I ahi be using one for my palm trees 🌴 and one for my 4 regular 🌳 I have that some need to be cut down and trimmed down as well. Do you have any recommendations ? What do you think of the new battery powered gardening tools?
If you’re going to do this on an MS-231 CBE, you only need the one bar nut and you don’t need the Stud (collar screw) IMPORTANT : The Sprocket Cover you will need for an MS-231 conversion is Stihl Part # 1143 640 1701.
I'm in the process of getting these parts to do my ms180 c-be. I have found that the cover last four you mentioned was 1705 but when going to order the dealer mentions 1704 do you know of any difference between the two. Thanks
Have a Stihl with 16" bar and want to get a 20" or 24" I am hearing great things about the Echo saws. What are your thoughts? Also I speak for many...thank-you for all of your detailed videos!
it's not a big deal to increase your bar length a step or two. if you want to go beyond that, you probably will need to go to a skip chain that has more space between the teeth, the big thing to remember if you go with a long bar is you may need to use less pressure to cut things with the full length of the bar, in order to avoid bogging the engine. but on the other hand, a long bar lets you reach out further, say to gut firewood that's down at ground level without having to stoop or kneel.
Can i ask something sir?. If we first start chain saw, ground start or other, is the brake must on or release before we started?. Because there a moment high rpm when chainsaw running until we press knob rpm…, can you explain sir where is the best we must do?
@@donyboy73 it’s mean before i start brake must be ON so what’s the problem Mr if i start with brake off, because i want to reduce slip brake and drum when brake ON and chainsaw start running high idle in amoment…
The side cover is a different shape from the 180 to the 181 at the rear bottom corner . You could probably do a conversion from 181c to 181 fairly easily , it's just that the 181 only has one bar nut . Maybe there's a side cover out there to allow the use of two bar nuts , I don't know , need to research that one or perhaps Dony can answer that . I have both 181 and 181c , the single bar nut on the 181 has not been a problem for me , although I'd prefer two .
The Quick Chain Adjuster system is awesome! If Stihl dealers would only take the time to show their customers how to use it in the first place! 😂 I think I'll do a video on showing just how easy it is 👍😁 It surely takes the guess work out of chain tensioning!
I had to sell my MS 280 due to no longer having enough arm strength to pull it through. Am now 84 yrs young. Bought a MS 70 and MS 80 as I really don't need the large saw. Gary
Stihl is famous for "Operator Error" issues.....you know how many Broken Stihls I've seen, that were FINE.....the person just Didn't know how to Start it!!! LOL
If you own a chainsaw, you should have some tools an know how to perform simple maintenance. These “too less adjusters” are just a gimmick, like self sharpening bars/chains. I would run that chain a bit looser than you had it, that’s a small displacement saw and small crank bearings. Too tight of a chain slows down the saw snd is hard on that PTO bearing.
@@Thomasploeg1968 Proof ? Poulan does extensive testing before recommending mix ratio. Have you done testing to prove that using a richer mixture is better ?
@@davidquinn6161 Usually the manufacturer recommends a 50:1 because of the EPA and all the climate change nutbags. That's why I ask donyboy because he know his stuff and has been doing his job for decades. Not only that because of him sharing his knowledge I have fixed alot of my own equipment and other equipment as well. I do however thank you for commenting. I really appreciate it
If you were constantly adjusting and taking the bar off, then fine, tool less has its place but honestly if it was once a day, you are stripping it down , you'd be lucky. Another pointless upgrade to garden machinery.
Die hard sub but offended by gimmick that sounds like the worst president (criminal) in US history. Don’t do that again and you’re proud Canadian so I was kinda double shocked. Very offensive. Only one subscriber but you’ll lose one if I see another reference to him
Watch my full side adjuster installation video on this chainsaw here;
czcams.com/video/RnFd2NMWPYo/video.html
How much would it cost in parts, since I will have to buy everything new including the new cover dony?
@@Bill-xc8le It's best to check with your local Stihl dealer. They may also have used ms170' kicking to lower the cost on the cover
What do you recommend for those stupid oil and fuel caps on that ms170 saw that break???
@@billy2bob63 Use less force.
This was an excellent video and I gutted my 170 that had a scored piston and re-converted my 180c. Thanks to your video. Matt
Worked like a charm. No more spending half my cutting time using the child-like thumb knob.
Thanks for the advise, I was going to put the quick adjustment on my saw. Now that I've seen your video I won't bother. Love the Canadian content.
I love the tooless covers, i would like to convert my saws to tooless. When u lose your bar nut wrench all the time it really is convenient not having to get a wrench.
I have one 180C with the toolless adjustment and easy start. Initially I was very sceptical as I was only used to older pro saws. After using it a couple of years for smaller trimming work I have to say I like it. It's a lot of plastic on the cheap consumer saws but I have had no issues with it so far. Maybe explain your customers how to use it properly and how to go easy on the easy start pull. And while they are there, sell them a .50 gauge bar and chain. I "downgraded" the stock 16" bar to a .50 gauge 12" bar with yellow chain and that little saw is an awesome trimming tool.
Great video Don! I was talked into a MS270 saw with the toolless chain tightener by the dealer. Bought it new. The adjuster is satisfactory but any new saw won't have that feature. It is imperative to keep the adjustment gear CLEAN or it won't tighten the chain for beans. I also switched over to a rim sprocket drive. The chain lugs have a much better contact patch with the drive than the star wheel does. To convert to a non regular chain tightener on this model would cost over $100 in parts. I can live with occasional tightening and save the 100 bucks.
Only had one failure so far - ignition module. Other than that, a pretty good machine. Keep up the great work!
You are such a great instructor.
Very cool! I've seen videos and read a lot of complaints about the toolless chain adjustment systems on several chainsaws. I don't have one, but anyone who does can research their chainsaw to see if there are compatible parts to convert theirs. Always great, Don. Thanks
Yea I have a Ms 180 mini boss. The tool less sucks. I'm going to go the cheaper rout and get some aftermarket parts because I don't think it's a big deal. Yea the sprocket on the cover has plastic teeth and some are missing. I hate it
I've that tool-less adjustment on my Craftsman too, and hate it. It always backs off , especially during a long cut, and tears things up. This may make me feel a little better about owning it! Thanks Don for the information, your work, and great vids. God bless. Rev. D.
Nice job I done that with a couple chainsaws👍
I bought and installed the side adjuster fir my MS170...love it. Easier to adjust with the scrench...for me at least. That side cover seems to be the same as my MS 250 too.
Cheers from NB
Edit: of course I meant 'for' my MS170...but it has cut 'fir'...lol
Brilliantly useful and easy to follow. I just converted my MS181. Very easy to do following this video but found a couple of minor differences. The cover plate has just one stud hole (part 1139 640 1700) so you don’t need an extra stud or to remove the dummy stud T27). Also the small white plastic blank in the kit isn’t needed because the shroud doesn’t have a slot at the front. Also on mine the screws were T25 not T27. However the chain tensioning kit was the same and the process was as easy as pie. The easy adjustment junk went straight in the trash bin as soon as I finished 😊. 👍🏻
I just converted my 180C according to your great instructional video. The original "quick adjust" feature had become totally dysfunctional and required completely removing the side cover and manually pulling on the guide bar to tighten the chain. Thank you for the excellent instructions!
Wow, this is the answer I have been looking for. My 180c is a pain in the rear end to adjust the chain. Thanks for the parts numbers and I will soon be off to my Stihl dealer to round up what I need to do away with this poor excuse of a chain adjustment system.
lovely stuff Donny mate and cheers from Australia 🐨🐑🦘🌴🌏 or the land down under to your area in Canada 🍁
Great vid, thank you! 🙂
Just made this change on my son's MS180; it is well worth the $60 for OEM parts online.
The old 'Comfort' system, was allowing the chain tension to tighten while using; that made the saw get hot.
Now, the chain stays at proper tension - and the side tensioner is MUCH eaasier!
Thank you, for many great teaching videos!
I prefer to use a tool myself. There's no reason for a tool-less chain adjuster.
I actually have one of each of the saws you used to demo, and I prefer the toolless adjuster. I find the pico chain (which I really like) often requires adjustment as it heats up, and on the spot adjustment is easy. I have not found any issues with bar loosening. Mostly cut birch firewood on my own property, multiple face cords per year.
I cut nearly all my wood with my 180C and Pico chain and it's a great setup. I really like the toolless adjuster too. About my only beef is that the snap down handle tends to snap back in when tightening, and you have to take your gloves off to get it open. But small annoyance. The saw gets lots of use every year as we heat with wood. I bought my son a 170 when they had a good deal last year, we'll see how that works out.
Last year I acquired a barely used MS250C as an upgrade to my MS170, very first thing I did was a switcheroo of the chain tensioner before eventually selling the 170.
I have Stihl MS260C with toolless adjustment, i think it works well. Very convenient thing. Though i'm not pro user. Must tight it well nothing more also must hold bar up position when tightening it.
One point regarding the scrench, when I purchased my MS-231CBE Tool-Less saw, the scrench I got was T27, not flat blade.
Great video on how to replace the tooless bar and chain adjustment back to the original one
Just found out that there was a screw on that sprocket and bar. My Ms 180 mini boss was a hand me down and it didn't have the screw. So it was I big pain in the but to keep on straight with everything else
What an excellent video! The quick tensioner is the absolute WORST feature of any saw ever. This is the only saw I have ever THROWN in fury while out cutting as I cannot get the chain back on. I can't tell you how many times I have just quit cutting for the day because this GD thing is impossible to get back on when you are tired and in weeds.
I love the video, changing mine out, just ordered parts, wondering what tools I will need? Totally new to this, thanks.
I switched my 017 from front to side adjustment. so much better.
I had an electric pole saw and it had the turn adjustment and I was always tightening it.
That’s great . We have the same issue at the golf shop with the MS271 and the MS290C the guys always grab the 271. Because the 290 has that quick adjust and weird pull cord mechanism. Wonder if both issues can be converted to the 271 type. We also prefer the old style ones even the fuel caps . But the newer ones have become easier to use . I remember when they first went to the new style fuel and oiler caps they where troublesome to get lined up to screw in
yes you could convert them too
I have a ms180c so I will consider this conversion. Thank Don.
I've seen Stihl make two "improvements" to their saws--this video corrects one of them, and the fuel cap videos correct the other. Both improvements generated CZcams correction videos. Uh, nice try, Stihl, but I'm wondering about their efficacy. Perhaps your beancounters are getting out of control?
As usual, another great (and necessary) video. Keep 'em coming!
I like the new style fuel caps. it's nice to not need a tool to break the fuel and oil caps free.
Nice how to video Don. I like the old school adjustment better myself! 👍🇨🇦🇺🇸
Nice video! Thank you! I did that convention to my new Ms 230C before ever use it with the tooless adjustment! Having 2 nuts holding the bar I feel more secure! And looks cooler 👍😉
Were the parts numbers the same for the MS230C?
Are the pet numbers the same for doing this to an MS230C?
@@NotALot-xm6gz yes was the same parts
@@kostasfrangos3354 Thanks! Having to set the chain tension way off due to how the locking disk changes it has been driving me nuts for years.
What a great upgrade
I've never had an issue with them. I have 2 of them... actually one is an 018c. Nice and old and stihl (haha) running
Good job this will help my friend who would not listen to me that it could be done
Great Video always! Also worth mentioning to convert b&c to .50 gauge. Extra good for me, MS 170 and 020T top handle both 14",050, 50 dl.
did that to my MS193T and my 170!
@@donyboy73 home town a Mom and Pop OPE switched 170 w the. 050... Over 35 years ago, bought my Dad 028 Super for Christmas based on their recommendation. Other than routine maintenance still runs strong. Keep clean, sharp chain and good fresh fuel.
The now vintage case is almost worth as much as the saw! Also bought 020T as well. It's still worth a lot. Crazy.
My local Stihl dealer quoted me over $ 200 for parts to convert my MS180C !!!
great tutorial thanks for your work Donny
Thank You’ll but I’m sticking with old way of tighten it
I bought a MS180 last year without the "Toolless" adjustment. Had to look really hard to find one. They are available, at a reduced price compared to the "toolless" model.... (Also put on a 12" bar and chain. Didn't want or need a 16".)
Wouldn.t you have to remove the adjuster to flip the bar ? Very good info thanks.. On a funny note .. I had a physical and the doctor asked about the two bruises by my knees.. chains saws..... He laughed after I told him why ..good to know he said..
Thanks for the info Donny
Two metall nuts is better than a piece of plastic to turn crazy on
my local small engine mechanic told me those toolless adjustment systems are intended for casual chain saw users.
I have both chainsaws and I really don't like the ms180c is set I am going to replace the cover and the adjuster.
Thanks very much!! 😀
Thanks for the info.
Good morning sir
Nice helpful tip brother 👍
Hi Don. I have a Sthil Ms 181 with a screw for shield. Can you put one more screw in the mortor saw for the shield so you have two. If the answer is yes, then maybe you could show it on a video. Thank you for your educational and fantastic videos here on the channel 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🇨🇦🇩🇰. Sincerely, Lars from Denmark.
I don't think so, I never see the 181 in my shop
Da MAN
Hey Donny, love your videos btw. I wanted to know where is a good place to buy these upgraded Stihl parts from online in Canada? Also do you have a chainsaw overview on set up on bar and chain and preventive maintenance?
Awesome!!! The less goofy plastic sh$t the better. Good upgrade 🙂
Great video! Can I convert my MS251C?
For a new homeowner what type of chainsaw would you recommend. I already own a stihl MS194t I love it to cut my 2 palm trees 🌴. I just don’t want to use the same saw what would you recommend? Or should I just buy a longer bar and chain for my top chainsaw ? I just don’t want to ruin my small chainsaw. I think I ahi be using one for my palm trees 🌴 and one for my 4 regular 🌳 I have that some need to be cut down and trimmed down as well. Do you have any recommendations ? What do you think of the new battery powered gardening tools?
Awesome video
If you’re going to do this on an MS-231 CBE, you only need the one bar nut and you don’t need the Stud (collar screw) IMPORTANT : The Sprocket Cover you will need for an MS-231 conversion is Stihl Part # 1143 640 1701.
Do you have any tips on converting tooless tensioner on 291C?
Good Informative....
I'm in the process of getting these parts to do my ms180 c-be. I have found that the cover last four you mentioned was 1705 but when going to order the dealer mentions 1704 do you know of any difference between the two. Thanks
How do you switch out a easystart starter, or I should just buy a new starter
Are echo saws as good as the Stijl saws
Have a Stihl with 16" bar and want to get a 20" or 24"
I am hearing great things about the Echo saws.
What are your thoughts?
Also I speak for many...thank-you for all of your detailed videos!
it's not a big deal to increase your bar length a step or two. if you want to go beyond that, you probably will need to go to a skip chain that has more space between the teeth, the big thing to remember if you go with a long bar is you may need to use less pressure to cut things with the full length of the bar, in order to avoid bogging the engine. but on the other hand, a long bar lets you reach out further, say to gut firewood that's down at ground level without having to stoop or kneel.
Would the parts from a ms170 work to convert a ms251-c?
I converted an MS251c. Use an MS250 cover and I had to turn down the collar on the stud for the back hole. Easy job though.
Donny, would these parts work on a MS 250C? Great video, thank you
Yes they will
👍👍👍 Thank you
Hi Dony. Do you know what the little red plug is, on the case, next to the muffler on the clutch side on the 180? Thanks
I am confused. How does cutting cookies show anything about the result of replacing the tensioning system?
it doesn't
Can i ask something sir?. If we first start chain saw, ground start or other, is the brake must on or release before we started?. Because there a moment high rpm when chainsaw running until we press knob rpm…, can you explain sir where is the best we must do?
I personally start it with the brake off. If you are new to chainsaws you might want the brake off then turn it off once it is idling.
@@donyboy73 it’s mean before i start brake must be ON so what’s the problem Mr if i start with brake off, because i want to reduce slip brake and drum when brake ON and chainsaw start running high idle in amoment…
Is it possible to do this on MSA 220c
Will the same part number kit work to change an old 021 from front adjustment to side adjustment?
Excellent clear video. 👍🏻. Will the same parts allow me to convert the MS181c?
The side cover is a different shape from the 180 to the 181 at the rear bottom corner . You could probably do a conversion from 181c to 181 fairly easily , it's just that the 181 only has one bar nut . Maybe there's a side cover out there to allow the use of two bar nuts , I don't know , need to research that one or perhaps Dony can answer that . I have both 181 and 181c , the single bar nut on the 181 has not been a problem for me , although I'd prefer two .
@@Gordon_L Thanks for your answer Gordon. 👍🏻🍻
The Quick Chain Adjuster system is awesome! If Stihl dealers would only take the time to show their customers how to use it in the first place! 😂 I think I'll do a video on showing just how easy it is 👍😁 It surely takes the guess work out of chain tensioning!
Will this conversion work on the MS-250C?
Would this be the same process for a MS211C?
Watching your vids from the UK mate 👍🏼 🇬🇧
I believe so!
Now, all you need to do is sharpen the chain
Hi I have a ms290 to much compression any help won't fire up
I had to sell my MS 280 due to no longer having enough arm strength to pull it through. Am now 84 yrs young. Bought a MS 70 and MS 80 as I really don't need the large saw. Gary
I’ve had customers bring back the tooless MS180. They ask me to order another chainsaw. I despise them.
i like the tool less adjustment i will not buy a chainsaw with out it i own five chain saws and they all have the tool less adjustment
Stihl is famous for "Operator Error" issues.....you know how many Broken Stihls I've seen, that were FINE.....the person just Didn't know how to Start it!!! LOL
yes a lot of repairs are due to "user error" than they say it's junk!
Hey Donnie, Roughly what is the cost for all the parts to do the conversion ?
probably $70 or so in Canada, but used covers can easily be found
If you own a chainsaw, you should have some tools an know how to perform simple maintenance. These “too less adjusters” are just a gimmick, like self sharpening bars/chains. I would run that chain a bit looser than you had it, that’s a small displacement saw and small crank bearings. Too tight of a chain slows down the saw snd is hard on that PTO bearing.
Hey Don, I have a quick❓ I bought a Poulan Pro 42/18 chainsaw it calls for a 50:1 mix. Do you think it would be better to run 40:1 instead?
It's always better to stick to the manufacturers recommendations. They pay engineers to decide these things.
I use 45:1 in all my 2 stroke equipment
Listen to Don. It will last a lot longer.
@@Thomasploeg1968 Proof ? Poulan does extensive testing before recommending mix ratio. Have you done testing to prove that using a richer mixture is better ?
@@davidquinn6161 Usually the manufacturer recommends a 50:1 because of the EPA and all the climate change nutbags. That's why I ask donyboy because he know his stuff and has been doing his job for decades. Not only that because of him sharing his knowledge I have fixed alot of my own equipment and other equipment as well. I do however thank you for commenting. I really appreciate it
Why did you cut the log at a crooked angle? Was there a problem with the sharpening of the blade?
I’m not a big fan of it at all. Had the chain fly off several times while the tensioner was adjusted to the max.
If you were constantly adjusting and taking the bar off, then fine, tool less has its place but honestly if it was once a day, you are stripping it down , you'd be lucky. Another pointless upgrade to garden machinery.
I like it too less. Thank you.
I don't like the tool less adjustment at all "/
The toolless chain adjusters are and have always been crap.
Die hard sub but offended by gimmick that sounds like the worst president (criminal) in US history. Don’t do that again and you’re proud Canadian so I was kinda double shocked. Very offensive. Only one subscriber but you’ll lose one if I see another reference to him
Great video Donyboy