Polaris Predator Valve Replacement & Adjustment
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- čas přidán 27. 05. 2019
- My 2004 Polaris Predator would not start so I checked a few things and decided to attempt a valve adjustment. I find they need to be replaced and now it runs great..
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This video saved me. My Predator500 was backfiring through the carb when I turned it over. Bought a feeler gauge and a hot cams shim kit. Sure enough the intake valves had no clearance at all. What I noticed is when the intake valves are too tight they never fully close which caused the carb to “pull and push air out” and backfire at the same time. Adjusted the valves accordingly, reset the timing and sure enough it fired right up.
This is super informative, I have an 05 tld and did a wiseco top end kit and now looking up information about the head and valves as I’m waiting for hot cams
This is the best/most informative video I have watched on valves
Thanks
I'm doing the same and my 2 daughters helping me. Adjusting the valves I didn't like to do. It was confusing and it took a while. Great video
Thank you sir.
Valve guides are very hard and a bit brittle. They don't wear much even in high hour engines. The valve seats can be ground. The valves cannot be ground. The valves are face hardened and once it wears through the valves wear very fast. Replace the valves. Stock valves are a little cheaper but stainless valves will last longer. Use new valve seals every time you work on the valves. Hotcams makes a shim kit that works for the Honda trx450r. The predator uses the same shims. The kit comes with 4 shims in each size and is much cheaper than buying the shims individually.
Very good and useful video. Thanks for making/sharing!
Amazing video thank you very much, I’m trying fix mine hope can do it
I needed this video thanks for your documentation
If you listen closely, you can hear the valve "tone" change from a course sound, to a more smooth sound when lapping. That's when you check your seat and valve for a good mating surface. A couple drops of oil on the valve stem is a good idea as well. When you are done, wash the heck out of the valves and cylinder head, you don't want ANY lapping compound left over on the seats or valves. Nice work overall though, good father/son project to learn on.
I’m so glad you did a video Explaining each step I have a 06 what do you have
2004.
Great video!
Like the boots good job keeping oil off your feet nice work though
Good video. A bit long, but I see you edited for some of that. I was wondering if all the oil and antifreeze had to be drained and replaced afterward and the process for that. I did not see the head bolt torque specs as well and was the head gasket reused or replaced?
Good points. I purchased a new head gasket and torqued per Polaris manual. I think it was around 50 or 55 ftlbs. BUt they want you to brint it to 20 and then 50 or something like that. Then back or 360 and then 1/4 turn and then another 1/4 turn or something like that. I bolt new head bolts as well. You have to drain anti-freeze but not oil.
What valve shims did you use?
So what was the mm on that don't get the thousandth
Love the video, very helpful. Do you by chance ride in Harrisons Hills Wi? You look familiar lol.
Thanks man. Please Subcribe if you want to see more. Keeps me motivated to make vides. I ride ATV's mostly in Michigan. Snowmobiles in Michigan and out west.
@@gobigparts Done! Michigan is a great spot, I only snowmobile there and atv in wisconsin, recognized all of your stickers on fridge lol.
Hey man I bought a 04 predator 500 5 months back and around December it cranks but won’t start and I would bump start and would run good many people are telling me it’s my valves and shim kit could it be that? Had new battery the starter is good
For sure.
i see your gold timing chain links are not on the sprocket dots. mine was the same when i opened her up for valve clearance check (was in spec and running perfect). i'm assuming sloppy engine building at factory or the chain has been off at some point in the past and has been set by cams and crank with disregard to the gold links.
Probably been off before. Boy did the valves need replacing though. It runs so much better now.
They never line up. Polaris sucks as far as quality checks
@@codyweien4513 really? have you seen many like this? did you know the motor was actually built by Subaru, you would expect better build quality at a Japanese factory.
@@CZcamsSupportTeams Yeah its built by Fuji, subaru engines are junk aswell I have an 04 sti.
Excelente saludos desde Mexico
Buenas amigo tiene las medida de calibración no estoy seguro a cuánto poner y no encuentro la calibración esacta
Hey did you have two cam retainer. Looks like retainer rings underneathe the cam caps. One on each cam. Or just one?
Not sure I understand question. Are you talking about the piece that holds the cams in? That is one piece. There are 2 peice valve retainers on each valve.
Thats what it looks like. Not sure ehat thats called.
Good job man but you was tearing my nerves up when you where turning that motor backwards even though i know its not going to hurt it but steal
Did you ever find out what was wrong with the fan?
Look around 4:30 it was a broken temp gauge wire
I already have my cams exposed .... do I want to take my coolant out of my engine before I go any further ???
May not need to unless you need to remove cylinder head like I did.
@@gobigparts i dont think I need a new valve anywhere so I dont think I need to take any more of the engine apart than where Im at already. I had a ticking sound that was coming from my very tops end where my valves are so Im hoping new shims will fix that. cam chain was tight so wouldnt have been that rattling. Mostly everyone Ive shown the sound to said valve adjustment
When you’re rotating the crack by hand you have to rotate to the left. Counter clockwise.
Yes correct.
Hola buenas a cuánto tienen k estar admisión y en cuanto escape necesito mirar tolerancias por si cambiar las pastillas de los tanques porfavor
Amigo averiguo cuanto es en admisión y cuanto en escape
Which Hotcams shim kit did you use?
HCSHIM02
I have a Polaris predator 500 too but for some reason when I try to start it there is a bad loud sound/noise and it sounds like my quad is about to break and the same happens when I use the choke. have any clue to what this can be?
Is it a backfire or sounds like the rod is broke?
gobigparts it’s not a backfire
Mine is the same and when I adjusted my valves it went away
Clutch basket. Doesnt it change when you pull in the clutch?
Lol i am fixing the same problem on labor day😂😂
So you didn't show how you got the cams back in the head with the timing chain, which is maybe the most important part putting it back together, that's where I am at now. I don't seem to be able to get the cams and chain back together
Correct. Sometimes I just get in work mode and forget to film. With the everything loose, chain tensioner, no caps on cam you probably have to tilt the cams down toward tensioner a bit to get chain aroud and on teeth.
@@gobigparts I am having problems gaining enough slack in the chain to get both cams back in the head, I believe it is because the one chain guide that is closest to the exhaust valves is not down far enough, I don't have a book on this ATV, and when I pulled the head the guide came with it, I don't seem to be able to get it to go back down where it's supposed to go, I don't believe it is sitting right or locking in place, I need an image from a manual for the guides, or an image from an engine itself.
@@dougturngren5027 Hmm, I believe you can download a manual online.
Probably should be doing this with the tensioner removed… it would help gain space and an extra free hand. If the chain guide is out of place you may be in for some more work, it may be loose or broken further down towards the bottom end
what should be the valve clearance?
I believe it is .006-.009.
@@gobigparts thanks
Hey! for the chain tensioner, can you reset it without removing it?
Didnt' remove.
Inches or mms?
This video is fraught with errors made during the disassembly. You should remove the cam chain tensioner before loosening the the camshaft holder bolts - the author references the bolts by the socket or wrench size rather than the bolt size ( this can be confusing because bolts with 8 mm heads can be 5, 6 or 8 mm shank diameter and the "12 mm" head bolts are 10 mm shank and some 10 mm head bolts will have 14 mm heads) - before loosening the head bolts, the 6 mm bolts with the 8 mm heads on the RH side of the engine should be loosened - the head bolts are then loosened in a crisscross pattern in 3 stages (break loose, loosen about 1/4 to 1/2 turn, then loosen completely and remove. If you are removing the head, don't worry about dropping the cam chain into the well - just fish it out with a magnet when ready to reinstall. Although it is a long video, the key points of assembly were left out - the valves can be adjusted on the bench before the head is installed - new valves are traditionally set on the loose side of the specified range as they will tighten quickly as they seat in. The author aggressively turns the engine clockwise and rechecks the valves - traditionally the engine would be rotated in it's normal direction of rotation (counter clockwise) gently to assure it turns two full rotations without any interference - if the cams are not timed correctly or if the chain jumps a tooth during the initial rotation, it will give the mechanic an opportunity to correct any problem without doing any unexpected damage. It's not the 'T' on the flywheel that is aligned in the inspection port, but the mark adjacent to the 'T' - experienced mechanics will verify the position of the mark by inserting a straw into the spark plug hole and visually finding TDC. Always install a new head gasket and torque the head in 3 stages or as specified by the manufacturer in the service manual. Overall the vid is OK for the novice mechanic, but lacks the detail necessary for a quality repair.
All good points. A new head gasket was used and torqued to spec in a Criss cross pattern per service manual. Not sure the procedure for shimming on the bench so just did it on engine at top deal center. The clearances were set to tolernaces in book. How much looser would you set them? Runs and starts the best it ever has now.
@@gobigparts loosening from 50ft lbs out of criss cross pattern will not result in any difference. Even coming off of 100ft lbs on an aluminum head to a cast block wouldn't result in any permanent or affecting warp that wouldn't be corrected again on installation. It warps x10 just heating up. I personally would have reused STEEL head bolts that were in an aluminum block/head combo.
If you have overhead cams, you can adjust the valves on the bench. Just a little more prone to recoil issues when trying to rotate them if need be. Just my opinion. I wrench on everything from electric to 10 cylinders. Dudes a bit anal for no apparent reason. Nice video. Keep on educating yourself man. I'm not even sure what's wrong with rotating a motor in reverse.... motors can run backwards. Lol especially 2 strokes
If you pull all the shims out the keepers will fall out
I doubt it because the clearance was so tight from cup to valve. The cup has a spot where valve contacts it.
Its happened to several people, looks like you know what you're doing though. Some fool filled my new predator with water instead of coolant and it froze now it has water in the oil. Hoping headgasket fixes it.
I have a predator 500 and they are nothing but problems
Bummer. Mine has had a valve adjustment and temp sensor and rear axle bearing in 4 hard years of running it.