The BEST & WORST Anchors. Settling the Great Debate Forever.
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- čas přidán 22. 08. 2024
- ⚓︎ A look into our anchor selection & anchoring process!
Further reading/references:
sv Panope anchor testing videos: / @flygoodwin
sv Amanda Anchor Rode Calculator:
svamanda.dk/an...
Rocna Scope vs Catenary:
kb.rocna.com/k...
Klemheist knot (to quickly tie a loop to anchor chain):
www.animatedkn...
Icicle hitch (to tie snubber to anchor chain):
www.animatedkn...
💥 Our next huge challenge is the Northwest Passage this year (2024). Live updates, map, info: www.alluringarc...
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/ alluringarctic
Patrons get access to ad-free videos, WhatsApp chat group and a boat tracker map with a list of ALL of the anchorages and harbours so far (since 2020!). Thanks for your consideration!
👕 Organic t-shirts & hoodies + stickers: alluringarctic...
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Whats up everyone? Happy Easter! Here's a long anchoring video to hopefully raise some heated discussion! 😉 Just for the record, we are not sponsored or affiliated with any of the manufacturers or companies mentioned in this video. This video is NOT meant to be an all-encompassing guide, but rather a look into some of our thoughts and special techniques that we use. There are some things that we think about differently than a lot of other people.
😊I see you lost your Dreads several months ago...lol.
❤
Happy Easter to y’all too. God bless!!!
That was VERY useful, and your links, at the perfect time. Thanks. If we ever meet, I'll buy the missing easter chocolate.
My hair went missing after an argument with paint...a big argument. Hope yours was less traumatic!
wow, thank you very much. incredible what high quality content you and sophie are producing!
The is simply the best video on this topic anywhere. I agree 110% with everything mentioned. My experience 35+ 😂yrs sailing, 9 yr circumnavigation. 44ft. ketch, cutaway forefoot, full keel, 14 ton displacement. We have a Spade 77 lbs with 3/8 in. chain, 250 ft plus 100 ft rode, one snubber routinely, two in windy conditions. 5:1 scope, more if windy. Have gotten by with 3:1 scope in 110 ft water when forced. I have watched literally hundreds of people anchor, and have seen the all the errors mentioned in this vid. Big anchor means you sleep better. Well done!!
Juho, I love the hair. I know the dreds were you. I like the new you. So young, handsome, and smart. I thoroughly enjoyed your presentation. It was very well thought out, informative, and shared from spot-on sailing experience.
I'm looking forward to your NWP. Thanks for sharing. I hope you and Dr. Shovi had a lovely Easter. ✝️
Took me awhile to figure out the difference. 😊
Aah that's different😂
Dude you are the most chill hard core Adrenaline addict on YT. Your in the arctic circle in a winter storm on a sailboat in a cove and you should
Like you
Are some edibles bro. Respect!!
Well he is from Finland .. some say fins can’t freeze 🥶
There are few places more cosy and relaxed than on a boat in a storm on a solid anchor, even better with that lovely stove they have onboard!
@@MonkPetite❤I say that all people can freeze
Cold weather is a feeling too
Bravo! 110% agreed. I have 30 years cruising 35'-52' trawlers in BC and SE AK. Something new I learned from you, and it makes good sense, is your suggestion to let out a large amount of chain after setting the snubber(s) to reduce bow movement...great idea!
Hi, I just want to say that I like your advice . I am retired fishingboat, Captain, mostly on 70 ft trawler type boats for the past 28 years in the squid industry on the South Africa coast, including Cape Aghulas Area witch is very unprotected waters. We fish in very high wind conditions,45 knots etc, on Anchor in up to 45 Fm waters, so anchoring becomes a fine art if you want to survive, both keeping a good anchor spot and not draging into other boats in close proxim
aty
So in my years at sea I found that your explanation are mostly correct and advisable . Good luck with your next voyage, Ill be watching ;-)
The dreads are gone! you look so much better. Great video as always. Many Thanks
This was fantastic. Thanks. You make a good point about neophytes posing as experts on CZcams. I appreciate your modesty and lack of bs.
Great to see you back!
I respect that you are not trying to tell anyone what to do, but this video, for me, has been a HUGE educational tool... there is way too much lore and myth about ground tackle, and you have just shone some clear light on the subject, with real experience to back it up. Thank you.
This calculator was new to me and very helpful! I have been told on several occasions by other sailors that my chain is far too small for my boat. Now I can prove them wrong! 🥳
Can’t wait for the NWP adventure! I love your videos and I have never sailed.
Hi so glad you are back,is it me or have you got a new hair do,if so I have to say it suits you..😀
Best wishes from the UK
Thank you so much. I really appreciate your thinking. Hardly anyone talks about that and they just assume oversizing is the answer but knowing that when the SH.. actually hits the fan and you've got 50-60 Kt gusts chain weight won't be nearly as important as anchor size and weight. Well done.
beyond studying your anchor choice, it's the physics that match up to it .... i think you did a good job of addressing shock loading, and the whole subject in general.
I looked at the Vulcan prices... if that's what one pays for comfort, I will settle for nervous.
Sarca Ex-cel anchors are just as good if not better and cheaper. Not a lot cheaper but an 88lb anchor like I have on my bow is 400 dollars cheaper than a Rocna Vulcan of same weight. F/V Panope on youtube did a good test on them and rated all the modern anchors in multiple seabeds. Set,reset,holding power,tip to weight ratio etc..
Thankyou so much for this episode!! As a complete newby I found this super helpful! I will be watching it more than once. Off to check my anchors, chain and windlass ☺️
One of your best videos over recent months or maybe years, in addition to being one of the best YT sailing channels (well done Juho!!).
This video was both very informative and educational with several practical tips on anchoring, especially when you have to stay safe and be prepared for severe weather.
And greatly appreciate you sharing the technical data and app recommendations for anyone that would like to test the logic, before putting it into action.
Hi Juho! I have been sailing more decades than I prefer to admit. Your discussion of anchoring is the most thorough and interesting that I have come across. Well done and best of luck on your Northwest Passage attempt!
Wondered where you were! Welcome back, and the new hairdo suits you well.
Im not a sailor but have subscribed to two other channels as well as yours, and yours is then most interesting to me for the content and presentation, along with the amazing scenery. Thank you!
I have a 50 ft, 25 DWT steel schooner. I use an 80 lb Rocna type as my main bower, with 70 ft of 7/16" galvanized link chain, attached with a Crosby 3/4" galvanized shackle to 350 ft of 3/4" nylon 3 strand Proset anchor line. (40% stretch)
Anchor / chain has a Crosby galvanized swivel.
In heavy weather or poor holding bottom, I simply shackle a 50 lb (I have 2 @ 50 lbs) lead kellet at the 70 ft chain/ line connection. Nylon stretches, kellet may lift depending on wind forces, then drops to the bottom on recoil.
50 lbs is way overkill, but they came with the boat, I so use one or both on a 3/4" x 10" long eye bolt. No more centenary concerns.
I've had the "ULTRA" (yes the expensive one) anchor for a few years and it's never let us down. Sure, there are cheaper options out there but IMHO, nothing compares to the ultra. Yes, i've had most of the others and no they don't even come close. There have been many tests (videos and such) of each and how they react to being pulled, re-set, etc.
This is exactly what I want for being informed about what you guys deal with. To me it is so, so interesting. Thank you so much.
Same here, this is why I Patreon, to tap into someone else’s accumulated knowledge that they’re stoked to share
Oh really good information for all sailors. You are videos about proper anchoring skills are better than any I've seen. You have a real keen sense of all of the pitfalls that people can create for themselves and then end up with three expensive repairs and/or loss of boats. You two are absolutely adorable and we wish you the very best sailing.
Great tutorial. Re: Northwest passage. Randall Reeves who did the figure 8 voyage a few years ago will be attempting the same route this summer. Maybe you will run into him (figuratively speaking of course). He is a member of the Richmond Yacht Club, Point Richmond California.
Now I know more about anchors than I'll ever need to know 😂⚓ happy easter 🐣
Please allow me to make a suggestion to you. You are currently in Alaska. Alaska has hundreds of commercial fishing vessels that are at sea and working for days and weeks on end. In many cases they anchor every night, often in difficult conditions (depth of 100' and more, hard bottoms or weed, heavy swell and chop, winds exceeding 50 kt, etc). Take a couple hours and go walk the docks at the marinas where the commercial fishing boats are moored. Observe what their anchor gear looks like, and particularly what anchors they use. I think you will notice that a majority of commercial fishing boats operating in the extreme conditinos of Alaska use a Forfjord Safety Anchor. The Forfjords have been around for 60 or 70 years and are still the anchor of choice for commerial fishers or two reasons. I haven't seen any recent anchor "test" that included Forfjord anchors. That is unfortunate. They are an old design, but they work and they don't break. I wouldn't have anything else as the primary anchor on my 37', 28,000 lb trawler. Ours is size 6, which is intended for boats up to 50' and 46,000 lbs. We have 200' of 3/8 BBB chain to the anchor, with 200' of nylon rode. We use a "sprung" snubber, with rubber shock absorbers. I also carry a large Fortress as a lunch hook or stern anchor in tight coves in B.C. and Alaska, and carry a large Danforth in the lazarette as a secondary anchor. FWIW, I have over 60 years of sailing and powerboating experience, including extensive sailboat racing, fishing commerically for salmon in Alaska and Puget Sound, cruising the Inside Passage and Southeasat Alaska, and chartering in the Caribbean, South Pacific, Mexico, Canada, and New Zealand. I firmly believe there is no "best" anchor, because there are so many variables. Ground tackle, rode choices, a snubber, technique, and other aspects must be considered. Anchors, associated anchoring gear, and anchoring techniques are like belly buttons. Everyone has their own, and likes theirs best.
Yes that’s pretty much the ideal design (or something like that). The image I had in my mind was more like the anchors on very big ships. Which apart from slight variations in looks, work pretty much the exact same way.
The problem with those anchors is that they don’t look good in the bow of a yacht…. They don’t roll well in a bow roller… 😄
@@ricardolordelo3881 Not to make this a huge debate but, as a commercial fisherman for 30 yrs that has used this style anchor I can attest to their ability. There is a caveat though and it's that they will dig in so hard you'll need to prepare for retrieval because sometimes you'll have to put them on a capstan or tie off to a stern cleat. I've bent a damn fluke more than once trying to get it off the bottom and back into the boat. I once put a buoy on it to come back later and retrieve it. They dig in good, almost too good and it's not a bad thing, just something to be aware of. I also had hydraulic drum that deployed the anchor with a powerful motor on it.
@@robertfreeman2322 Yes, they’re just trying to maximise the holding / weight ratio because the boats are small and light and the anchor weight actually makes a difference in the performance of the boat. They even make toilets out of carbon fibre under the argument that it’s lighter!!! So they twist and turn to make an x lbs anchor hold just a little bit better.
Anyway above a certain size boat, those types of anchor don’t even exist.
I also went with a Vulcan based on SV Panope testing. I selected this over a spade as the galvanizing is better and it does not have a lead insert so should last longer and be easier to regalvanize if it ever needs it. I think the Vulcan does better than the Ultra in testing so it makes no sense to pay a lot more for less performance. Great video!
I spent several months on anchor in the same waters that you are now. I used a Mantus, and 3/8 chain, as close to 5:1 scope whenever possible. It set first time, every time and never drug. I had problems with a Delta and Danforth in previous trips. I have friends that are as loyal to Rochna- always holding. Loved your presentation and I'm getting used to the new look. Welcome back!
I cruise the same area and the Mantus has been far superior to others I have used.
Dude, You are an expert, keep telling use your diy. NWP will be epic. P.s that little camio of the Dr was not enough, we need the other half of the crew.
Great info! We anchored on a sand bottom with 50+ knot gusts in a 42' Hunter at San Miguel Island off Santa Barbara, CA. There was no stretch in the chain and the boat pulled back and banged as the chain stretched taut. I tied (with bowlines) a 6' nylon 3 strand line between two links, to act as a shock absorber (made the chain slack between the line tie offs). It worked great through the night. And the bowlines were easily untied.
Anchoring for a few years, cute. 35 for me, skipper from 10 years old :-) and deckhand for life. RIP dad. I wish he could have experienced a good modern anchor. Would have blown his mind.
I’ve been running a ExCell #3 for three years. It’s been working really well. It came out of California for about 550$. Viking and Spade were more expensive and taking longer to get. SV Panope does a real good testing series on CZcams explaining in detail all the issues with about 20 different anchor brands and sizes.
I was following him on Cruiser's Forum, long before I subscribed to his YT channel.
He was recently on the Arctic Sea Camel YT channel @carlthor91
I did commercial fishing with 30 to 35 foot skiboats for 4 years. 10 crew members. What I learned is the "anchor" is only the hook that prevent your chain of slipping.. The actual anchor is your chain. The thicker, the better, at least 10 meters of it. I never "pulled" an anchor, (hook) by hand or winch. I ride it out with a bouy attatched to the rope or chain. If the hook gets stuck in a rocky bottom, you NEVER ride it out, you stern, (reverse) it out in the opposite direction you were hanging on the rope.
Dude, you are a total expert. Talk about the technical stuff from your actual experience. It's appreciated.
Mahtava Juho! Kiitos hyvästa tietosta. Onnea matkaan pohjois reittiin!
Nice presentation. Straight forward with enough detail to get the idea across, but not so much detail as to cause confusion. Thanks!!
Juho, great video. Practical and common sense.
Where catenary really comes into it’s own is with depth. Run your calculations for increasing depths and you’ll see what I mean.
Most good anchorages aren’t that deep but occasionally you might be forced to use one that’s 15 m (or more!) and that’s where it begins to really matter. But overall you’re right. At common depths it’s pretty useless.
I’m glad you didn’t advocate throwing out multiple forward anchors (to be differentiated from a fore and stern anchor). That’s just a recipe for multiple failures, just ask Skip Novak. Also, testing has shown that a longer (9-10m) snubber during a storm can dramatically reduce shock loading, like by half, which is commonly what knocks loose anchors in those situations.
Nice haircut. Lookin pretty sharp.
Fantastic video Juho, so glad you shared your knowledge on this subject which is always getting debates. Last time i was on a boat we were using CQR anchors. They worked pretty well for us apart from the time we forgot to let scope out as the tide came in. Nothing worse than some scratches on the belly thankfully and a not so gentle reminder that scope is king.
Yay, I've missed you guys!
After you've literally carried me through this seemingly endless winter, I have really only this one thing to tell you. I LOVE YOU ❤❤❤
I come from many, many generations of sailors, and while I don't sail myself, the information you share is easy to understand and incredibly helpful. I always think of this channel first when it comes to sailing knowledge.
Many thanks for doing this vid.
I always peek at anchors while walking to my boat and try to imagine why one is better than the other.
Excellent video with lots to think about. There is no substitute for solid experience coupled to a practical approach.
One thing that I was a bit confused by, is the use of the Klemheist or rather how you tied it in the free end of a line. The Klemheist I know uses a loop.
Great video.
I've used a Rocna 1 for years and it's only let me down once.
I spend alot of time in LaPaz BCS, México which is a very tricky place to anchor due to strong tidal current and strong crosswinds to current direction which results in the infamous LaPaz Waltz.
These conditions have you doing rapid accelerations over top of your chain and rapid 360's in both directions. The holding ground is sand/mud.
I contend the rollbar on the Rocna prevents dragging because the anchor resets so quickly.
If I observe a boat anchoring with a plow I always tell them they are too close because they will and do drag in here.
Regarding having lots of anchors: I have 3. My old Bruce which is the best short scope anchor out there for soft bottoms. Great in crowded anchorages. I kept it as a spare should I lose my primary Rocna.
I also have a Fortress which works great as a stern anchor here in México. It's a 23 which is too big. I'd love to trade it for a 15. It can be a real struggle to dislodge the 23.
Thanks so much for the video. Very helpful. Please do more.
The swivel is also supposed to allow the anchor to reorient itself pointing down if the anchor resets, for example from a very large wind shift (think 180 degrees). In reality, the amount of twist over the entire rode seems very small, so that the swivel would not be needed. Gravity should make the anchor orient itself heavy side down at the roller most of the time.
Very sound points regarding anchors. You should carry your storm anchor on the bow as your main anchor. I have a light-ish 60ft boat. I care about weight everywhere, but particularly the bow. I have an 80kg Rocna on the bow with 115m of 10mm chain. I sleep very well. I have a Fortress in the stern as a kedge/stern anchor and a 57kg Mantus in the bilge as a spare. In 200,000 miles I have never needed an anchor swivel and I don't understand what they are for.
Good to see you happy Easter 🐣🐇🐰
I have a vulcan 25 (55lbs)on a 41 foot 15 ton. Sailboat the anchor has been awesome 5 years now .
This is great info. Mt old wooden boat only came with a galvanized Danforth. Looks like I'm keeping that as a backup/ stern anchor and getting a nice, modern, all-purpose one for a primary. Thanks! Looking forward to seeing you guys attempt the NW passage!
Amazing video. I'm just doing some light sailing around Helsinki coastal areas (between Porvoo and Porkkalan niemi), but good to know these and probably will get rid of the swivel I have :)
Onnea Northwest Passagen läpi purjehdukseen!
Fantastic information, am in full agreement. I sincerely wish you two all the best and success on your journey to Greenland through the North West Passage. I admire all that you do and how you cope with adversity. May your adventure be blessed with good fortune and no break downs.
Kindest regards Pete, Australia.☮️
Very interesting topic about anchoring. Glad to see that you are both healthy. Stay well and be safe.
What a great treatise on the subject, thank you. Fascinating. There is something very special about being safely anchored in a storm hole & riding out the weather. Your very logical approach is really helpful. I've never thought of the loop of chain idea to damp the yaw. Then again my windlass has always been manual !
I enjoyed and agreed with your generously detailed explanation and learned some new ideas to add to my own life long allready tried and true system.
Your reasoning for all of your points was clear and intelligently delivered with heart and a determination to provide real value. Whenever somebody offers advice on the subject of anchoring it is mostly so much lacking the sufficient understanding that is needed for a serious learning experience for a beginer. Even while I give your content a super high rating, there is one vital point that was not mentioned and as yet this point has never been mentioned by any of the other anchoring videos I have listened to. The point I'm refereeing to is called the "bitter end" of the whole length of the anchor line. Is it fastened to a very solid fitting in the anchor locker so we that should there be a "run away" event where the chain gets out of control and cannot be stopped except for the super strong fitting in the locker !l! Imagine the feeling when super strong katerbatic gusts flings the boat backwards a high speed to the Lee shore. I would be so bamboozled and paralyzed I thing all I could do is cry and drop to my knees.
In stead of making knots to attach your ropes on the chain, you should buy the special hook to fit on the chain.
I used for years during y circumnavigation and it is very useful and most importantly in case you have to leave quickly (if the wind turns or unexpected local current change) it’s VERY fast to unlock.
I lay down 3:1, then back against the anchor, slowly adding RPMs to set the hook, then go 5:1. Where I sail, it’s a tidal fjord, with 4-8’ tides and we have 30’ of heavy chain and the rest is nylon dockline.
Liked this one very much. A good lesson with dense information, but very sympathetic served as just "good advise" based on Your own experience :)
Although I do agree with everything in this video, I was taught that the best anchor is always going to be the chain itself, because it's the chain that's doing 99% of the work.
Too many people get fixated on what anchor to use and how to use it etc. but the anchor is only there to set the chain, the weight and drag of that chain is what secures the boat.
If you're dragging your anchor (which any boat will when you consider the weight of the boat vs the weight of the anchor) then you do not have enough chain out.
When a 180,000ton tanker can park up with a _mere_ 15ton anchor, you know it's not the anchor that's doing the work...
Great tutorial, very comprehensive. Thanks.
Something is different, we can’t quite figure it out. 😅
Well explained, the heavy chain vs anchor weight is super logical.
Having the anchor tightened with a line is perfect.
Easy to cut if needed. It saved the day during high winds and when the engine power was gone.
Th end of the line was actually more aft so I didn’t had to walk all the way forward. ( easy when you are alone)
Un do the knot , press down on the switch and it went down. I didn’t care how much scoop we needed.
My boat needed to stop and it did. Two options to choose form .. install the snubber or look at the engine fist.
After a brief inspection of the engine we found the culprit. Luckily the waves where not that bad. Other wise we had to make that snubber line. But all system restored and we upped the anchor to retrieve the line that was slipped in the emergency. Why I’m telling this .. some sailors reported t6at they did loose that anchor and chain completely.
Bouncing true waves the darn chain bumped the gypsy and so she when’d. And there is no stopping of a fast slipping chain.
Thanks for sharing your well advice.
There's a much more handsome fellow under the new hair cut, glad you made the change.
26:14 “next to my bed” Yes! What is the ideal bed / sea berth?
Boat yards always include double berths to sell boats.
I find that intimacy and good mood for couples is best preserved with single berths.
First is the possibility of comfort set up for the individual’s watch pattern.
That way your beloved is not rolling onto you while you are deep into a 3-hour offwatch.
You are not pressed against each other in hot, light wind conditions.
You can wedge yourself in for stability during cold, wet bumpy conditions.
Ventilation is very important, but at the same time protection against the random wave invasion.
I have found a shoulder++ width pipe berth with a substantial mattress that can be dried is a good solution. And open mesh without a mattress for tropical conditions. I have no idea how to specify the mattress.
This is difficult, but a bin for a seabag, small bag, toiletries and a towel makes a lot of difference. A real place for a towel is rare on a boat, but important nonetheless.
Good point on not going to big on chain. In fact I have recently seen advice from Viking to keep everything close the the anchor as small as possible, so aid the burying of the anchor.
Wow, such a great video. Completely changed my mind about chain. I've been looking at chain recently and have been a bit overwhelmed.
Great video. My method is to use 4:1 scope for F4 or less, F5 is 5:1 scope etc. So for 50 knots (F10) would use 10:1 scope (if carrying enough rode and swing room allow).
Absolutely loved this episode. I kept thinking how utterly isolated you two are. You’re so well prepared and your depth of knowledge is a free gift to us all. The Nth West Passage should be mind blowing, a warming climate might give you enough open water over Summer. An English tip for you, when comparing anchors or anything ask the question about ‘which’ is the best anchor rather than ‘what’ is the best anchor. Obviously the ‘what’ question can be answered by saying it is “one that holds the boat” but ‘which’ can only be answered by comparing various anchors. Can’t wait for the next episode.
Great anchoring review! Very practical, sensible and informative. I love my Vulcan after a lifetime of the bad old anchors. Your use of knot's and lashings is great, so simple, reliable and inexpensive. Thanks for making great content
Spot-on with your findings and comments on modern anchors, snubbers, shackles and swivels. Regarding your anchor alarms, I believe a significant difference between a boat/chartplotter based GPS and a smart phone GPS is accuracy and/or sample rate. The boat-based ones are of a much higher calibre than the smart phone based ones, but maybe not as feature-rich. On catenary, it is only ever useful when you don't need it and disappears when you do. Max scope and a good snubber are critical and mitigate the loss of catenary that occurs when anchoring in gales and storms. I'm looking forward to hearing about your findings with the riding sail. Finally, for an anchor in the Pacific NW I use a Spade and I"m mostly happy with it, except it drags in soft mud conditions.
I just got out one of my favourite books, Multihull Voayaging, Thomas Firth Jones.
A very experienced sailor / designer / builder.
He recommends on fathom of chain, the the rest in nylon rode, no thicker than it has to be. His reason is that this gives the maximum elastic spring, so minimal load on anchor.
(Of course in coral or the like, chain is better)
I think it was very good for you to share your experience and how YOU are doing things. AS a rule I like to set up 5 scope in good weather and 7 scope when I know the wind will increase beyond 20 mph.
Very nice video. We have been cruising for almost 20 years now and have reached the same basic conclusions. (With some help from our boat designer, who pointed us in the right direction long ago.) But we hadn't thought about your idea that the slack chain loop above the snubber reduces horsing at anchor -- good point. Also, we use a modified camel hitch to attach our snubbers, so I will check out the icicle knot. And we'll check out your anchor alarm apps -- yeah, we have a problem with the screen turning off. I can also add a few pieces of information. We use G70 chain from Acco. It's officially 5/16" but in practice measures about 9 mm. It's got very uniform thickness -- much better than the Maggi, and the links are longer, so it weighs less per meter than 8 mm Maggi. You can also get Acco to add a "big link" to each end, which allows you to use a large shackle with the same breaking strength as the chain. We did a bunch of testing in New Zealand, and the 5/16 G70 consistently broke at loads about 60% above greater than the 3/8 G30. (And every single break occurred at the chain hooks, which is a good reason not to use them, besides the fact that they can fall off in light conditions.) The main issue with G70 is that you can't re-galvanize it without risking hydrogen embrittlement. We combine the chain with a 55 Kg Rocna, having long ago gotten rid of our Bruce. (We use two big fortresses as backups.) Finally, we now seize our anchor shackles with 7/64" uncovered dyneema, because we had multiple instances of the wire seizing getting ground up and broken between the shackle/chain/anchor. The dyneema flattens out under grinding pressure rather than breaking. We always make two separate seizings, tied in square knots and locked with superglue. We have never had one come undone or get cut, although you have to change them every few years to prevent UV degradation. Anyway, it was cool to see how similar your ideas were to our own, and you taught us a few things. Also, watching your video reinforced our view that warm water is better! 🙂 Thanks -- Ken and Beth S/V Eagles's Wings.
That point at the five minute mark is very astute. A cqr is a pain in the neck to get over the bow roller. Very helpful video.
Once again, simple and very informative with a charming Finnish accent, be well and trust your personal SISU angel and you'll be fine & safe, cheers from Karelian Poika!
Thanks!
Thank you, this is the best video I've seen on this subject and really helped me understand the issues. You're a great communicator!
Nice to see the video! Ill send you some warmth from San Dimas Ca
Great video. I also lash my anchor in the same way. But, my anchor roller it is also open on the top and I have experienced when waves hit the anchor, the anchor kind of jumps up and wingleling. As for your anchor sail, you can try to mount it as much aft as possible and also use a 4 square meters really stiff storm sail and tide it really flat.
Loved the video and learned a lot about anchoring and the different types of anchors. Looking forward to more of your winter videos and hope that you have enough fuel (diesel and wood) to keep you warm through the winter or there are places open where you can fuel up. The two of you take care, stay safe, and stay well.
Great stuff. The reason I carry more anchors (2 main 1 stern fortress) on my last 15-year voyage, is the probability of losing one of them. Which did happen once outside the reef in aututaki!
I just heard you say it's fine a hit rocks in calm weather😮 I would try to keep that to a minimum of zero! Be safe out there.
Never knew I needed to know about anchors… but watched every second with interest :-)
great video, been playing with that website you showed. I did not know how ineffective chain weight is in high winds.
Just to add my twopenneth for what it's worth. I've had a Spade, Mantus, Bruce and Brittany (supplied by Jeanneau and similar to a Danforth). I currently have an Ultra which I wouldn't have bought on cost but it came with the boat. Best has been Spade, followed by Ultra then Mantus. I found the Bruce quite good except on rock. The Brittany was useless and I replaced it with the Mantus. Sailing area is Scotland to Greece.
That was a great tutorial and refresher on products and techniques. Your experience in all weather and locations is great to have learned from. The new you looks great. Nice to see Sohvi too. always a smile.
A lot of actionable information, thanks. I like you talking like this, faster and more naturally.
How can we not be nice to you? Again excellent plain explanation all the way. Very well done.
Great to see your video again!!. I sail a swing keel 23' in large Montana lakes. I found this video helpful. The winds are pretty rough at times and this gave me some great insight.
I have watched all of your videos. I have looked out for them, they always make my day. Looking forward to your NWP videos.
Interesting video Juho! Thank you! Looking forward to your adventures sailing the Northwest Passage!
Really loved this tutorial, you two are doing an excellent job of reinventing your channel.
Great technique, that usually takes many years to learn. Well worth listening to by any novice aswell as a few old seadogs!
More weigh in the chain will provide more dapmening before the cattenary doesn't provide any more benefit. But it does significantly impact the dynamic load component. (As you alluded with 20 vs 50 knot calculation)
(Writing this as someone who designed mooring for offshore instalations)
Thank you, most enjoyable. I have spent many secure nights in nasty weather hanging off my Rocna MK1, until the day I shot the anchor on a kelp bed. . . . . As you say, the roll-bar is a design flaw.
🤔 the Bruce (MUD) & the CQR [real](hard & sandy bottom) Your selection of other anchors, pretty much is as good as your chain and scope is... really the key. But, that is only my opinion... like yours. Oh, and weight. Nothing less than 45lbs.
Glad your back ... looking forward to next video and expecially NW Passage Adventure !!
Thank you for your thorough and intelligent overview of anchoring issues.
I like your common sense on the boat operation. I would by me a hydro charger to keep a couple of reserve batteries charged. I use it on my boat and has come in very handy. I do not completely depend on solar. The Hydro charger is not too expensive and is pretty easy to install. That charger saved my ass a few times on anchor winch use and lights in unusual circumstances. Good video considering subbing. Nice Boat. Your Star Link is good too.
Very good video to comprehended the way with anchoring. Thank you!
You are correct about the delta Anchor. My experience with a 40 foot launch and this anchor in ideal soft ground was that it would pull in and hold ok but if the wind changed to the opposite direction and blew hard it would not reset and the boat would take off across the bay no matter how much chain was out. After the third time this happened it was removed for a 25kg Rockner with a roll bar. The Manson Supreme would also be a good choice. These Anchors are the closest thing to a mobile mooring out there. Highly recommend.
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I've got 2 cqrs with chain rode for my cal9.2 here in florida, they work great in all conditions
re swivels and chain hooks:
your method is by far the best.
If you use a shackle, I use 2, they must be load rated. Most aren't. Crosby is the only one I know of. It's identified by the red pin. Not cheap but what's your security worth?
Swivels must be load rated too. Most cheap ones aren't. I like the Mantus.
Thanks Juho. Great video and excellent info. Good luck with your Northwest passage plans. We look forward to seeing your adventure. Cheers, Denise & Bryan
Well done anchoring summary.
Thank you.
Your common sense is appreciated.
Keep up the amazing job documenting your journey.
Very inspiring ❤