Video není dostupné.
Omlouváme se.
Problems With HIPUR? Why Are So Many Struggling With PUR Adhesive for Mitered Casing???
Vložit
- čas přidán 14. 08. 2024
- I have been getting some messages from guys struggling to get HIPUR to work and bond with strength. In this video I show how I use the system, my process, how I clamp my miters, and a strength test to show how strong HIPUR actually is on 1x4 poplar casing. I honestly don't know why some guys are having problems with the glue, but hopefully this video helps show how to use the adhesive properly, and how strong your joints should be.
0:00 HIPUR CHANGED MY LIFE
2:00 Strength Test - It's LEGIT
3:46 Temperature Matters
4:17 Use Cam Action Miter Clamps
4:59 Demonstration
6:43 Proper Squeeze Out
8:13 Are Clamps Necessary?
9:19 My Process for Clamping Quickly
11:40 How Quickly Can Clamps Be Removed?
13:42 For Maximum Strength, Give Time To Fully Cure Out
14:18 Potential Problem - Not Enough Wood Mass
15:21 Does HIPUR work with pine?
16:33 Bad Tubes of HIPUR???
18:41 How To Tell If Glue Is Compromised
22:01 Cutting Blade Might Matter???
-Support more content like this by becoming a PATREON SUPPORTER - / insider_carpentry
-INSTAGRAM - insider_carpentry
-As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
This is honestly one of the best finish carpentry channels. Thanks for all your hard work man!
I'll second that.
I had issues getting the joint tight after applying the glue. Didn’t want to use clam camps on the material Being used. I found a clamp technique that doesn’t imbed into the material and after a couple of test runs the glue worked very well. Scoring the face where glue was being applied made a huge difference in the white oak miters.
Very foolproof and detailed tutorial, hyper informative, no vague zone, and this is exactly what we expected as a mid-level finish carpenter. Much appreciated!
Hy-pur informative.
Hello Spencer. My name is Doug Farwig. I am a 50+ year trim carpenter/Building Contractor and I have been following you for quite some time now. Let me just say that I am Very Impressed with your work. Your videos are excellent as well. I have an unusual request for you. I think it would be Extremely helpful to those that are new to the trim business to get some kind of an idea about just how you got started and how you have gone about Building Your Business to what it is today. Another thing that I feel would be Very Interesting is to tell the guys about the total expenses that you have spent on your trade and business. You have an Absolute Fortune invested in your tools and I'm sure that you didn't just go out and buy Everything at once because, let's face it, most of us just don't have that kind of money to invest in the beginning of our journey. Plus, you have multipules of Everything. Just your Clamp Rack alone is quite an investment not to mention that you have Every Tool Known To Man.....lol. I think it would be an Interesting Story and very helpful to those just starting out. We all known that most anyone can do something if they have the right tool for the job. You have made a Huge Investment in your trade and have chosen wisely as you went about it. Your work is Excellent and I commend you for it. You have taken on some projects that I never would have considered doing myself and made it look easy. Please give this request some thought and it would be nice if you could give a Guestimate of about how much you actually have invested it total. You've probably never thought about it in that sense before. If you do decide to make a video about this topic, I would sure like to know about it so I can be sure to watch it. I am a subscriber of yours and have made many purchases using your links so you can get some affiliate commissions. Thanks Spencer. Well Done My Friend....!
I added that to my video idea list. Thanks!
I had a problem with the glue and it was because the case was to cold, so I found that if I hit the joints with a heat gun for a second it gave me time to get things set before things started setting up. It’s also a great suggestion anytime if you know you are going to need a little more open time. Thanks for turning me on to this glue!
I can see that a high tooth count to cut a hardwood would cause that issue. I noticed even with regular old wood glue that a 36 tooth blade did a MUCH better job overall than a 60 tooth or higher blade did. I had a custom staircase to trim out, and I was having problems with adhesion, burning, etc. once I put a "rough cut" blade in my saw, everything worked out so much nicer. That's when I learned that a "finish" blade is a relative term. It's what the wood wants, not what the worker wants.
Well said, thanks for commenting !
I love my 60T blades, but ,,,,,
Which 36 tooth blade did you use ted?
I've been running the CMT 50 tooth more often than not.
Ted Fry excellent point
Just got an old Hyper gun from a guy retiring, thought I would give it a try after watching your older video. So far I love it thanks for the updated video and advice.
Spencer, you should try warming up the mating surfaces with a heat gun first if you have problematic material or a joint that has held together by hand. It keeps the glue at a runny viscosity for longer so you have more time to twist and work the adhesive deep into the pores of the wood. Also gives you more work time and a tighter glue line for when clamps are not an option.
Thanks for posting !
damn bangin that joint on the garage floor was amazing
I've used this technique with 2.5" poplar casing and have had both amazing results and some failures. From what I can tell there are a few reasons for the failures. The first is that a 2.5 inch narrow colonial profile is far from ideal, but if you get a perfect bead and quick clamping pressure I have created many unbreakable joints, but you do need to execute perfectly. The other issue I have had is casings where the material is warped. I do not use finger jointed poplar so my material can be bowed and twisted and I'm often trying to glue, clamp, and fasten into submission. When you do this, especially with window casings, there can be a lot of rotational force on the joints as soon as you remove the clamps. For this reason unless I am dealing with really flat stock I prefer to leave the clamps on overnight and wait for the product to fully cure. That unfortunately does defeat some of the purpose of doing it this way unless you have a large collection of clam clamps. Lastly, working on the floor I tend to get worse results than working on an elevated and flat work surface even when everything seems to have been executed properly. The finished surface left by the blade is a variable I hadnt considered. I use a Forrest Chopmaster blade which leaves a fine finish so probably worth trying to create rougher mating surfaces or even scoring with a utility knife and see if that helps.
Thanks for your comment. It makes struggling with 2.25" colonial (as I type this) feel a little validated. It's also only 1/2" thick and with the clam clamps I got, I have to shim up the trim a little so the pins aren't so close to the face
I totally agree with the idea that it’s probably the blade. I know exactly what you are talking about.
Another great informative video! We ordered a few tubes from Amazon and had some problems with reusing partial tubes. Otherwise I've had great success with this system, it has made me more efficient with much higher quality results. Thanks again for all you do.
This is so timely because I did buy the gun and the glue (2 tubes off amazon, then two tubes direct from Infinity Bond) and had no luck getting it to work on pine and was about to message you asking for help. I tested the joints after setting them with the woodriver clamps and while the joint held it broke apart in my hands after 1min of set time. I was expecting more strength. I tried one joint waiting over night and it was still weaker than pva glue. I ended up on one job using the clamps with ca glue plus woodglue which worked pretty well so I was convinced of the method but not the HIPUR. I just tried it again on poplar/oak handrail using your method exactly and it held up well enough to screw the rails down. I'll have to look at the things you mentioned, the resin in the pine and having a high tooth count with too fine of a surface make sense and either could be my issue. I'll try on some poplar. How long would you say to cure on an average humidity summer week to get that kind of strength you demonstrate? Overnight or a full week? I love the concept and prefer the one glue gun to using two glues so I really want to get this to work.
It cures out kind of like a curve on a graph. Lets say you have 30% strength after 5 min. 50% after 30 min. 75% after 6 hours. Full cure after 3 days. I don't have the exact numbers but its somethign like this.
You may have to give up on pine. I hear so many guys who are not able to make it work with pine.
The piece I demonstrated was at full cure. It had been sitting for a week. But I bet it would have been similar after 24 hours.
@@InsiderCarpentry Well, at least it's very helpful for you to put this out there and confirm that it's a common issue. Otherwise I was close to assuming it didn't work at all. I can reserve it for some woods and use a combo of ca and pva glue on pine, which has worked for me thus far.
Number one carpenter in usa love your work everyday Big salute 💪👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
I don't have any experience using this glue gun or this specific glue, but i do have years of experience with PUR glues. I own a finger jointing plant and we buy PUR in 1000kg (1 ton) bags about 10 at a time. The glue generally has a shelf life of 1 year after date of manufacture. After that is seems to thicken and go like jelly. Becomes a nightmare when it goes through the pumps and applicator heads. It's available in multiple set times, we use 3 minute.
Moisture in the timber and air set it off. The more there are of either the faster it goes off. Sometimes too fast if there's a stoppage.
95% of what i do is radiata pine, and it bonds extremely well, so i don't know why so many are having issues joining pine trim? Can only assume it has something to do with the fit of the joint or the speed at which it is assembled maybe? If it's already foaming up and you're trying to clamp it together it's all over red rover.
I have a Victorian restoration coming up, home was built in 1912, and it's on the beach........................going to put pur to the test for sure, BTW Spencer, it'd be great to have you on the team!
Had a miserable experience with HiPur on pine 3 1/2 inch door casing. Followed exactly like Spencer says. Used the 60 second set time adhesive. Dry fit the joint with half pressure with clam clamps. Applied the HiPur at 350 degrees per the glue gun. When I made up the joint with HiPur it set up so fast that when clamping it together I could not get a tight joint. The joint would not close due to the hardened HiPur. Plus is was very weak. I then used CA glue with accelerator and it worked great. Much stronger and tighter joint. Threw the HiPur gun and glue in the trash and will stick to CA glue.
I did buy the glue from Amazon so perhaps it was a glue quality problem but I’ll never find out as CA with accelerator is so much easier.
Thanks for putting this video out. For MDF I always use CA glue with the activator and have great results but for clay-coated pine or finger joint pine the CA glue is too brittle so when I saw HiPur I thought it was gonna work just like CA glue with cancer board. The first time I used it in clay coat pine the joints just fell apart when I moved them even after letting them cure for 5-10 mins so I thought I got a bad tube and ordered another one. Nope same problem so I tossed the Hipur gun in the garage never to be seen again. The only thing I was doing different was the wood species and I was using pinch dogs not clam clamps
The clam clamps are essential, pinch dogs don't get the pressure needed.
@@quintonpaulin9826 Thanks for the insight I'll definitely give it another try with clam clamps but I thought it was interesting because he said he held some of the wooden hand rails together by hand and it stuck.
They will hold well when you have a larger mass of wood such as a handrail. But I also heavily score both sides with a utility knife. Gives more for the glue to grab into and also channels for the glue to go. The scoring will allow for a tighter joint.
My Woodcraft clamps are Tiawan....they work fine.
Your statement about buying from Amazon is very much valid as a possible cause. Unfortunately Amazon sells by way of individuals as well as companies. You have no way of knowing where that glue came from or how old it is.. I would never buy from Amazon and I will tell you why. Sorry for so long but this is very important in today's online buying scenario.
I bought some oil based wood floor product for two 5 gallon cans. The price was competitive but low comparing to all other searching. The cans were all fresh from dates on expiration as stamped.. I had so much trouble with this finish that I literally had to sand it off multiple times. I finally contacted company who manufactured it. I was told my issues were not at all something that they were having problems with.
I contacted the seller. They told me their company sells alot of different finishes. What they did which to me I could not prove, is that they were putting one gallon expired and old cans into 5 gallon cans and putting an unexpired date on the cans they were selling. They were most likely getting these "expired" cans for next to nothing and reselling at a very good price, but not too low to make you feel any issues going on. They could also get 5 gallon containers and put them in one gallon cans and mark them with fresh dates as well. They actually told me they put them in new cans for shipping purposes
I had the biggest mess you ever saw and was going to sue them but could not prove the age of finish or tampering of product.
This is just a heads up on being very careful on buying anything online at Amazon especially. Buy from company or well known seller. All these products with expiration dates that are expired end up on either Amazon or Ebay. Do not buy. Same with counterfeit tools. You cannot tell the difference until it is too late. Different types of steel are changed, or motors are cheapened. It is big business as these dishonest sellers will do this on so many items you have absolutely no idea that you just bought something of inferior quality. Like I did. And yes, there is no doubt I was sold expired wood floor finish to fill the pockets of sellers who could care less about your time and hardship in getting it back off.. I am sure they are doing it with this glue. No doubt in my mind. Thus is big business and profit margins are huge.
Interesting idea about the glassy miter cuts.
Very well done vid Spencer. Appreciate the tips and tricks you’ve learned over the years after converting over to PUR glue.
Agree w/ you that PUR is a well kept secret, when comes to trim work; as I know used to always use CA glue exclusively till learned and tried PUR, and there’s a difference. Still use CA, but it’s all based on what doing, like any job.
Thanks again for your tips/tricks w/ working with this PUR adhesive.
Cheers✌🏻
I've used it on Australian plantation pine and it works very well.i use a sharp finishing diablo blade.
Thanks Spencer for such a definitive explanation of these useful tips and problem solving solutions.
I don't know if this guy teaches or if its his voice but this is such an educational channel. As a tradesman I tell my guys to always know the 5 W's and this guy always answers the questions I am thinking about.
I tried this gun out for a few years and gave up, but only for my specific use case.
I found it’s really material dependant. Like for the poplar or MDF style trim you’re using here it has great strength, but far less strength on smooth hardwoods like maple or oak.
I also noticed that because it’s so thick, it can be hard to really clamp the pieces together tight enough. But this admittedly is only because all the materials I work with are prefinished, and there’s no painter coming behind me to fill and finish, so I can’t use any clamps.
But I really do think for your use case that the HiPur really is as good or better then 2P-10.
Agreed. It doesn't have much use in prefinished material situations. Glue line is too thick unless you're using clam clamps.
Let your glue heat up for 40 to 50 minutes, and you will be amazed at the difference it makes in conjunction with clam clamps.That along with a quality blade and a fine tuned saw should make your glue line disappear.
I recently had a job with a tight timeline, and I couldn’t wait for glue and biscuits to completely dry and then sand the joint. I gave hipur another try and really focused on dialing in the system. It worked great and will be my new standard going forward.
I also found that if you start with the heel of the miter touching and let the clamp pull the toe together it really compresses everything better and gives a smaller glue line. Pre finished stain grade will still be biscuits tho because I can get a zero glue line joint.
First time I have heard of this glue setup. We have glue guns with sticks here on this side of the pond but I would never use it for miter joints. I use CA glue ( it’s called miter bond here) and pin the joints. Don’t think it would take that stress test you did. Really enjoyed the video 🇮🇪
Those sticks are just ordinary "hotglue" Nigel... I wouldn't use them for anything I want to be permanantly stuck... they're great for making templates for worktops going into a recess or alcove using shim material... 🤗
I don't know if PUR is available here in Ireland, I've never seen it... but then again, I wasn't looking for it so... 🙄😂
Those clam-clamps are the dogs bollix.. 😏
😎👍☘🍺
Thanks for a great lesson on HIPUR glue. Lots of helpful tips.
Spencer I went to a job and the casings looked like they grew there. I was amazed. I’ve been a finish carpenter since 1971. Still at it. I enjoy your vids. The studs and drywall work has always been suspect. You must be cutting a lot of drywall to make your casing fit tight to the wall. Great vids. Thanks alot four all your content I content. Great for all the young and old guys. Rolling the miters is a must for most windows sometimes doors also. Haven’t seen you cutting drywall back at all. ? Or back beveling window frames to allow casing to sit tight to proud jambs. Again great vids
Very informative! I remember Richard of Finish Carpentry TV raving about this gun a while back. I don't really have a use for it as a DIY'er, but typing to help with the YT algo overlords and recommending to others! :)
I appreciate the comment!
Greetings from the Uk… where the finger jointed tulip, clam clamps and hipur isn’t even available!! I assemble my architrave on the bench too but usually just use ca glue
Really good info - I’ve never worked with hipur so this was really informative
Dude you are a great teacher!
It’s pretty obvious to me Spencer where the problem is ; when applying and clamping ? I am just switching over and getting ready for an upcoming job doing a bunch of doors, windows, and base.
I am planning to use it on the doors and window casings?
I think I am going to set my phone up and just before I start the gluing I am pushing the timer to see where I am at?
I am in the Nor-Cal area (nothing to do with So-cal where it is crazy land) but we do use finger jointed pine! And hopefully this General who I am sub-contracting to will buy finger jointed popular ? But either way I am trying it?
I will let you know! However; I believe it’s timing!
It might be easier to use a stiff brush to get rid of the squeezout faster. Great vid.
I guess I don’t see the real value in this system if it doesn’t work well with pine. Here in Virginia, pine is the only casing material sold. To get poplar is a custom order from a mill shop. I’ll try it with my upcoming project. Hope it works well.
Very informative video. Thanks for your time and videos I’ve learned a lot
Damn, no clam clamps for me in Switzerland😑. Nice Video👌🙌
Wish I saw this video sooner but yeah over the weekend had some pretty poor results from the PUR adhesive, but checked all the boxes you mentioned. 2 1/4 casing, pine material, and used a high-tooth count blade for cut the miters. I tried scoring with a utility knife on some of them and I think it definitely did help, but overall think those 3 issues you highlighted + handling them rough the same day caused the failures.
Fantastic detailed videos as usual
I stopped using mine also.
I was using clam clamps, but all the trim I install is pre finished. I found that the glue was getting all over the finish, and ruining it. The few tubes I used did not just flake off like you had just shown.
Also I purchased off of Amazon so it was probably bad tubes.
It's not ideal for prefinished material. That's for sure.
Spencer Lewis, you are a gift from God
I have use this product because of your recommendations. I too have had problems with it & in addition to all of the tips that you gave in this video I think one problem is with storage. I have found that even in the sealed/desiccated pack some of the glue just does not perform property. I think it may be because of climate control. I used to store glue in military ammunition boxes (do not use near as much glue as you do). Since I started storing glue in my house it seems to work as I would expect 😊
Hi Spenser Thank you for the great tip. I purchased the cam clamps and hipur, waited until now to try some framing...It worked perfect. Stile smiling the rest of the day.
*Welcome back*
Awesome info. Thanks Spencer
Ever since your first video I've been trying to make it work. Most of my work is prefinished hardwood. I'm using an FS Tool XL 4000 blade, I think it's a 100 tooth. And yes I'm using clam clamps. I'm pretty sure my glue was good and fresh. First time I tried it was on pine. Total failure! Ok, probably the sappy pine. Next time was on 5/8"x2-1/2" Colonial profile prefinished oak. Still very little strength, and the glue line was plenty wide for prefinished work even when I tried to work fast. And that's using clam clamps! I've messed around with it a few more times but haven't had any luck. I think my cuts might be too polished and barely enough mass with the smaller profiles.
Does anybody put pocket hole screws in the back of mitered casing? I've done it a little and it works decent, just very time consuming!
Thanks for all your teaching Spencer! I don't see how you get it all done!
With those material choices I'd probably opt for biscuits and wood glue and use a decent amount of clam clamps in rotation.
When is the coffered ceiling’s video coming ? I’m very excited to see it.
Soon!
The problem I had was old glue , either out dated or I just didn't use it fast enough. Thanks for the tips and place to buy it from. I think my past supplier had old stock.
Keep the unused tubes of glue in the refrigerator and they'll last a lot longer. I have been using this system for about 20 years and found that refrigerating the glue, even between uses, greatly prolongs the shelf-life.
Spencer, I just did a small trim job using brand new 30 and 60 second HIPUR, ensuring that it heated up for at least 30 minutes prior to use, verified that it came out totally clear, and yet none of the joints even began to hold. It was as if I had put plain candle wax between them.
I tried it on pine, Poplar and MDF. Same results for all three. I used my genuine Cam clamps to pull the joints together, let stand for 30 minutes, and not a single joint even thought of holding.
I then flat sanded the mating surfaces with 100-grit to provide a "tooth" and still I got zilch. Very frustrating.
Finally, I resorted to CA gel glue, Cam clamps, and then spray activator, and completed the job with perfectly closed joints that held like a pit bull.
I have no idea what's going on as I have used HIPUR successfully in the past. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I honestly don’t have a clue. 🤷♂️
@@InsiderCarpentry
Thank you. Neither do I.
I keep trying PUR, and as much as I want it to work, it almost never does. I’m starting to wonder how much the climate affects it’s performance. Do you usually use it indoors in a climate controlled house or shop? I end up working on builds that I either have to set up in a garage or house with no a/c running. Maybe the environment I’m in has too much humidity, causing the glue to instantly start to set before I can even get it clamped up. I’m curious about your thoughts. Thanks
Im in ohio and my main builder never has the ac hooked up by the time i arrive. Thats a topix for another day lol. Not sure where your at obviously ohio is not the most humid place but i never have a issue with it. If your using clamps you could go to the 60 ot might give you some more time but it is a little thicker.
Do you know where we can find the gun? I ordered through the amazon link in your prior video but received a janky knock-off with a detachable cord that you mentioned, but the trigger/plunger is horribly sticky. It appears that the Steinel is discontinued?
Try gluegun.com
Just bought in to this set up, Tried it with maple and had a horrible time. Had a super thick glue line, and it didn't seem to bond well with the casing. I glued 5 windows up and set them aside over night and ended up not being able to install them. I could easily break the miter after sitting for 20ish hours and the glue line looked horrible. I'm gonna give it a shot with poplar on the next job and hope for better results.
I don't think it likes the "closed grain" nature of maple. The end grain is to tight and smooth. Nothing for the glue to bite onto.
As many Canadians can attest, end grain gluing maple is a very difficult task.
It simply does not absorb glue well, even yellow glue etc
Not your fault, or mistake.
Hahah works with moisture…no kidding. Probably why it never worked especially well for me here in Vegas. I’ll try a light sponge on the ends next time.
Are you using finger-jointed lumber for that casing? How do those look for the customer after some time, with the crimping and swelling of the wood? Do the finger joints become visible thru the paint after some time?
I've had great success with it mainly on 4/4×4 poplar. Tried it with Collins clamps before my clams arrived and it was a no go. I want to try it on a banister but most of my banisters have been stain grade fir or oak lately.
CMT chromed 80tooth finish blade is a nice thin kerf miter saw blade if you can't quite afford the FSTool. The 50tooth has been on sale around and either will give a nice textured joint face, more surface are for adhesion,I've found.
Would you still use these cam clamps with stained and finishes casing? If that’s not the case what would you use? Just hand pressure?
Can you use that for Exterior Miter Casings, lets say for Windows or Doors too ??? I live in the North Eastern US!!!
I'm not sure on how it would hold up. I probably would not recommend it.
Wish I knew about this when I was replacing all my windows !!!
Now if your doing picture frames preassembled what do you do when the jamb is out of square and it throws off your reveals I doubt your making those adjustments at the door or window before you assemble it I can see door casing preassembled it’s more forgiving to get your reveals right
It's very easy to bend and push it around to get proper reveals. Not an issue at all. That's the advantage, its strong enough that you can stress the joints a lot in order to do so. You get speed of assembly, strength, and speed of installation.
Thanks for everything you do Spencer, learnt heaps. Could you possibly do a video on what system you would use if you didn't have clam clamps or hipur, would be greatly appreciated.
Was trying it on pine ranch casing today in high humidity and it was a big fail. Joints just kept breaking.
I also have had a very tough time with the Pur adhesive. I’ve been using it on and off for years. A lot of times the joints won’t stick at all, even with the clam clamps on it. Ive low and high tooth count blades and no difference. In the north east a lot of the trim is primed pine. I def think the wood species makes a huge difference. When it works, it works great. When it doesn’t, I want to throw the gun across the room because I just wasted a ton of time and have to redo everything.
This is a puzzle I haven't been able to solve. I hear this a lot and I'm usually at a loss for why it doesn't work for others.
Does the storage in cold weather effect it ? Ordering in winter time do the6 freeze and does that effect the glue and will they freeze and cause problems if left in work vehicle? Thanks for the tips and websites
Always had issues with it that I don't use anymore. Pick up gun and front falls off. Doesn't easily remount on holder either. So so annoying.
You need to compare this hiper glue to Titebond and do a break test. I was always taught the the glue is stronger than the wood. But you demo broke right at the glue line and to ill effects to the wood. It still may be stronger than Titebond, but only a side by side demo will prove it.
Pretty sure he did do side by side comparison in a previous Hiper Video where smashed both on the ground.
end grain glued joints break at the glue most of the time, including Titebond 2&3
I have done extensive testing in past videos. On a poplar 1x4 miter the hipur is stronger for me than TB & biscuit.
I'm wondering if the guys having problems with the glue work is arid regions (Utah, Nevada, Colorado...) Perhaps not enough humidity in the air.
It will still cure using the moisture in the timber. Not sure why so many are having problems with it. Can only assume they are not getting the joint together tight enough or fast enough that the glue is foaming up and it isn't bonding.
Thank you very much.
Great video !!, thanks
Great video as always Spencer! Given the info here and watching your other videos on HIPUR, what would be the best glue for the 2 1/4" pine door casing? I understand the concern with the tensile strength when using CA glue, but given that the casing is only 2 1/4" and the issues that HIPUR sometimes has with this type of casing, is CA glue a better option for this application? I realize that I could use Titebond, but the faster cure times are not there with the standard Titebond glue. I did do a cut and blade check and the glazing is not present. Thanks for all of the informative information you provide!
I don't recommend hipur for 2-1/4 pine casing. It doesn't hold well.
CA glue would work ok but you'd have to be careful not to stress the joint and break it.
Regular wood glue is idea. Might be a good option to put a screw through the top or bottom.
Bottom line. 2-1/4 casing is tough...
@@InsiderCarpentry Thanks! I am going to do some test fits with the CA and Titebond speed set and see what happens. If the results are not good then regular Titebond it is. Appreciate you.
I tried it on one frame and it all came apart but i believe i didnt let the glue get hot enough. Ill retry it on some window frames.....
Question, will the squeeze out make it stick to the fab table? If so what is the solution to keep it from happening?
We normally don't have a problem, but when I have a concern I throw down some wax paper from my kitchen drawers
I simply wiggle the piece a bit after I clamp. This breaks the bond and its not an issue. You don't want to let it sit long enough without shifting it that it can bond well.
thanks for the great content. i got the clam clamps and will never look back! i dont have any problems with the pur adhesive but the gun i got is garbage. its the newer version of what you have and is so poorly designed! when you pull the trigger it releases the front end of the gun that holds the cartridge. than and it never stops leaking. do you have that problem with yours?
How do you use the clam clamps with prefinished wood without causing damage to the finish,?
It's very rare for me to install prefin personally.
The holes that the clamp makes do you fill them? Always enjoy your videos I’ve learned so much from you.
Painter fills them.
I'm having a hard time getting the clam clamps. What would your second choice be until I can get my hands on a few clam clamps. Thanks for everything you've been teaching us Spencer you're the best your neighbor from Chicago
The miter max cam action clamps also work well. I'd recommend them. I did a full review on them and they are basically a copy of the clam clamps.
Woodcraft sells them for like 65$ a clamp
@@InsiderCarpentry I have those, they work very good so far
@@jaredwaters4633 Sigh. Maybe when you looked. Currently 82 for 1; 73 for 2+.
After my HIPUR glue shipment was delayed, I’ve started glue my miters with regular hot glue gun (Ryobi 18W), and successfully finished whole 8-stories building like that, even tho I’ve got my HIPUR soon. Advantages of hot glue sticks: it’s CHEAP! and you can buy it at the Home Depot; it heats up really fast, and with Ryobi gun it heats up to really high temperature and thin viscosity, which gives opportunity to make very tight joints; it cools down really fast too, 10-15 seconds; using cordless gun is very convenient too. The only slight disadvantage of hot glue sticks, that it doesn’t create such a strong bond as PUR. But for about 1000 trims I’ve got very few unintended breakages, and in some cases to have ability to break joint for reassembling is even necessary. Obviously, you need to use miter clamps. But from my experience I will never again spend $15 for 1 tube of PUR, when I can buy 24 pcs 10” sticks for $5.96 😅
Hi. Awsome videos. Thanks. What’s your procedure for trimming a window out with the drywall sitting proud. Do you still roll the mitres the opposite way?? My problem is that with the house I’m trimming out now, every corner of every window is different. I’ve been neatly removing the excess drywall. Tia.
Unfortunately that usually means a lot of drywall smashing. If it's less that 1/8" I don't roll the miter and will just smash out drywall and use a clamp. If its more than that I'll smash drywall and roll the miter. It sucks but sometimes you have to note how much every corner is out.
I have a video coming up on this topic. Stay tuned.
In canada distributors use mostly FJP and mdf.
I have been using CAC and with MDF it's perfect but I do find it will sometimes fail or not hold with pine.
Would regular hot glue be a viable alternative to PUR considering it doesn't perform well on pine woods?
Question as I've had some issues using this product. When gluing, in between sets of casings etc, does one re-secure the cap while the product is still hot and in the gun? Or just leave the cap off so long as the heat gun is hot/plugged in. Thanks for your help, excellent information and channel. Your content is much appreciated
You can leave the cap off and it it fine. If I'm going to walk away and not use the gun for a long period of time (30 plus minutes) I will replace the cap. Its good to batch cut as do a continuous cycle of assembly. The glue works best when it is hot and fresh.
@@InsiderCarpentry thanks for the reply
I’ve gotta get some customers to watch your stuff so they understand why I recommend wood
Have you tried the ClampClamp with railings?
Awesome thank you much.
He was swinging!
Hey, just curious. Is there any reason you don't plane the jambs down when they're proud instead of rolling the miter? Less work for basically the same result I assume?
Pretty much. Either way is fine.
I wish I dealt with more proud jambs than I do where the drywall is proud by the entire width of the drywall. The last 3 jobs I have been on I have had to rip jamb extensions from 5/16" all the way up to 3/4" for about 15 windows. Change orders for life!
@@cmmartti get a multitool with a good blade on it for proud drywall. That tool changed my life. Hahaha
Where can I get a couple of those mitre clamps?
Jim Chestnut in Florida
how well does it work on MDF ?
I am told it works well, but CA glue can also work well with MDF. In my area we don't use much MDF so I can't comment much.
8:14 and 8:35 video edit went rogue.
Great tutorial, as always.
Thanks for the heads up! I'm gonna leave it but I always appreciate knowing when I miss on the editing.
@@InsiderCarpentry No problem. All your videos are professional tutorial materials. You should edit them into paid training course on trim carpentry, the same as @Blacktail Studio did with epoxy tables. So it's better you knew that there some editing issues.
to remove that glassy edge, try light sanding
Where you buying your glue? I feel like I’m having a hard time finding it
Glue gun . com
PUR glue is working well with Poplar and MDF moldings. Pine is nightmare, never glued good. Do you have any solution for pine ??
For whatever reason it just doesn't seem to like the pine.
We also use wood glue Elmer's and Festool dominos 500 with their dominos/pegs
Another glue we use is 2P10 with Elmer's and Festool dominos
Yellow pine is weak, put white pine and radiata pine work well for me.
Maple is not good at all.....soft or hard.
@@InsiderCarpentry For pine you can switch to tightbond quick and thick glue which takes about 20 minutes before you can safely take the clamps off. So with that, you glue and clamp up several frames (which requires having more clam clamps), set them vertically against the wall with the clamps still on; and set a timer for 20 minutes. Alternatively, If you weave another task into your routine such as cutting casing or base it works fine. and you don't need that many clamps.
Do you believe HIPUR is a good product to use when gluing rail and stile cabinet doors?
NO WAY. Not good for that application at all.
Could different humidity levels in different parts of the country effect the glue cure/strengthen process?
That is something I have thought of as well, but as far as I can tell it doesn't seem to matter.
The more humidity in the air the faster the glue will start to foam up, and if you are a little slow to get the joint together it will definitely not bond as well.
Until you took the gun out of the holder, I was like HOW ON EARTH IS THAT A GLUE GUN hahahahaha
Spencer, do you run into issues of glue constantly dripping out of gun once it’s hot? I feel like I waste quite a bit in drips
This does happen. Doesn't happen on ever tube. But there isn't really anything you can do about it that I know of.
How does it work with tight grain wood like oak or maple
Don't know if you mentioned that they might also be using the wrong glue.
I purchased some green pur and a gun. Tried it on a piece of outside crown. I thought it would set faster. I'm currently using CA and it's not strong but sets instantly. How long should I expect to wait for this to hold before installation? Literally only your videos come up on Google searches.
I prefer CA glue on crown miters. I like to add a couple pieces of 1/2" dowel with plenty of glue on the backside of the crown miter. This makes it extra strong. See my videos on crown molding.
@@InsiderCarpentry I've watched them all 😉 I honestly might return the pur as Im only at a house for the day and don't have time to wait for stuff to cure. Also I'm in Arizona and I'm worried about the lack of moisture.
If you are assembling casing with 4 sides, the final side has 2 miters on the ends of the piece that have to be glued at the same time. Does the glue react too quick to engage one clamp and then move to the other end? If so, how would you glue the final casing piece to the 4 sides frame?
I've showed this in other videos. Absolutely don't try and do both at the same time. For the last miter you simply lift up one side of the miter and spread apart with some pressure, glue, carefully put back in place.