FIXING FRENZY Part 1
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- čas přidán 28. 02. 2024
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Multiple attempted fixes in the 1 video.
I have so many boxes of faulty items to get through, some purchased from eBay, some donated via the PO Box and some given by friends and family.
Let's see if some of these things can be fixed.
Remember that this is just for entertainment and I am not an expert in these repairs. The processes in the video may not be the best way, the correct way or the safest way to fix these things. I do love fault finding and trying to fix broken things, so I hope that comes across in these videos.
Many thanks, Vince. - Jak na to + styl
Time Stamp
Introduktion 00:09
Crackly Speakers 00:45
Handsome man talking about PCB WAY 5:31
Google Nest Mini 6:25
Bissell Carpet Cleaner 16:48
Portable Spot Welder 31:48
Listen to this man 55:59
Thanks Anders. I'll pin this👌
@Mymatevince my purpose of youtube continues 😉 thank you so much for mentioning us! I'm so glad to read about members' own projects and proud of be a member of your fanclub! (If i scroll the facebook page right now only every 3rd post is an upload from your youtube channel, this feels alive and a very good and helpfull response chain❤.)
I just love that you're planning to leave carpet cleaner to your kids in your will. They are very lucky😊
Hi Vince, with the spot welder I think it's just the design.
I had a NOCO Boost Pro GB150 car starterpack given to me as a present, I charged it up for the first time which took hours to do, I never used it but placed it in my glove compartment and forgot about it.
When it came time to use it during a cold spell it was flat, no lights nothing.
After opening it up the Lipo was totally flat and showing signs of puffing up.
I contacted the manufacturer only to be told that the warranty period was up, so no help from them.
It had never been used, came with a flat battery, the instructions only state charge before use, the charge lights did come on so anyone would think it is ok unless you use a usb volt meter.
A lot of these companys just don't care, it sells, makes them money, it lies for a while in your car and damages the battery, by the time this has been found flat, too late the battery, and warranty is out.
All wrong, and potentially dangerous.
I can't wait to see you fix the Corona beer. ;) This looks like a fun batch Vince.
😂
I don't think you can fix Corona beer. It'll always taste like crap 😅
That what happens when the circuit uses a soft power button, unlike a mechanical switches The soft power button will eat up or drain the power bit by bit. Because that soft button is tied up to a chip, that needs constant power to function. The designer might think, that the buyer must be using these tools daily, and always put on the charger, after daily work. the only way to fix it, is to find that offending chip, and install a switch to cut power to the chip, whenever the tool is not in use.
Obviously, that Spot Welder has a construction error, but if you want to modify it so that it can work, connect the battery regularly to the switch that you install on the housing and tap to prevent the battery from draining.
Loving the series so far Vince, we had 2 Bissell pro heat carpet cleaners, it was common for us to snag it on a rugs edge and it snaps the belt, I have 2 belts here and some tools scattered about if I can find them I will send them to you 😊, don’t forget to go over the carpets you have cleaned prior with the machine in rinse mode as the carpet shampoo can leave a sticky residue that will attract dirt.
The spot welder look up the spec to see if it’s li-po or super capacitor….. ?
Thanks can’t wait for part 2
I have a similar tab welder (albeit just the bare battery/board) and with the standby current from soft power off it will absolutely fully drain the battery if left alone for a few weeks. My solution is to disconnect the battery when not in use. I've had the welder for something like 3 years now and every once and awhile I connect the battery and give it a little charge to keep it around 80% and she still runs just fine.
Really enjoyed this mate. Had no idea batteries could do that. I’ve fern trying to charge one on my exercise bike for weeks ! Looks like I need to figure out how to replace it.
Thank you Mike 👌
Hi Vince. The correct solution for use on volume controls and variable resistors, etc, is the deoxit fader solution. It's in a green package. The red deoxit can desolve the tracks on controls. I found out the hard way. Good luck.
Hi Vince! Hey, you can use a small drill bit and bore into the green part of the pot very carefully and get cleaner in the pot. If you look carefully, you can see the green section of the pot has more than one section. On a channel selector like on a CB radio, it has several sections, but it is similar to what you have there, you have to bore a hole in each section to get the cleaner inside. When I say this, you have to be extremely careful and not punch the hole in to deeply, which of course the bit would ruin the internal parts of the pot. Once it is cleaned and flushed and some Deoxit inside, you can rotate it as you do and then seal the holes with a tad of hot glue. This is very effective and will last much longer than trying to get it down the shaft. That said, it appears you got it good enough good job! I also agree with the poster who mentioned deep well sockets that does help and makes the for a cleaner job and does not scratch up the nuts on those pots or selectors or damage the plastic around them.
Ha, ha I was saying to myself... 'Not this time Vince..'' I was shocked it flippin worked!! I would though place a bet it will get noisy again very quickly. (Though that Deoxit works wonders with very little).
@@martinda7446 I'd also question whether IPA/Deoxit is effective enough over time without the debris being removed from the pot's track: surely all you're doing in such an enclosed space is loosening the debris & moving it around a bit?
@my mate vince. One other thing as these draw alot of amps i wonder if the battery is rated or wverytime it has a power draw you get instant voltage sag. You could fix it by installing a switch to the posative to just switch and disconnect the battery and when you use it just flick the switch. The bms could be trying to balance the cells
About the spot welder, you cannot really measure a Lithium batteri immediately after charging it because the chemistry in the battery simply can´t level out the voltage 10 seconds or even 2 hours after you unplug it. the best way you test a lithium battery is to have it fully charged, unplug it, wait AT LEAST 24hours before you start measure it, then you take 1 measure each 24H, it is normal that it drops some voltage after charging over time but it will stabilize itself when you leave it and it will drop very slowly after this if the cell is healthy, there are graphs for this for those who don´t know what you should expect to see. but you can expect a cell to drop 0,1 volts during the initial 24 hours and then it should stay pretty much the same but every Lithium battery have a slow internal discharge over time, but a fully charged cell should not keep drop voltage quickly with no load because that is a bad sign. The low charge is because that cell has no internal BMS and the logic circuitry in the device is never really turned off and it pulls current over time and it has no complete protection that turns it off. The trickle charge is correctly made however, people are dead seriously terrified for lithium batteries dropping below 2,5 volts but it is not a general rule to make a battery dangerous, it truly is not good for it and you usually lose quite a bit of life and capacity when it drops too low, if the battery is drained because it have failed and short this is where the trickle charge comes into play, because if the voltage never reach the 3volt safe line it never starts to charge with high current which will lead to fire eventually. but if the battery nicely climbs up again it is usually fine as long as it have not puffed up or drop down in voltage again too quickly. Overcharge, imbalance and shorting cells are what cause the general highest risk of fire in lithium cells and soooooooooo many devices do not include a proper BMS in their multi-cell battery packs and it causes individual cells to be way too over charge or even reverse charged and then you go booom.
one last thing, The probes on the welder is supposed to be safe to short out when the device is turned off because there will be no current, the voltage you read is the electrical leakage through mosfets, they are not relays that completely cut the connection when they are off, some small leakage will be seen, BUT I would not be surprised if the device have a voltage sensing resistor with some voltage applied to the probes that you can measure because how would the device know when you poke the probes to a desired weld? I am sure the device prime the Mosfets when the probes referense voltage gets shorted and it is likely working exactly as it is designed to do. albeit a standard Chinesium shortcut budget design. it could had ways to truly turn the device off but that would be probably triple the payed price for the product in the end if not more, you get what you pay for
Excellent, thanks for the detailed write up 👍
This may be the longest sentence ive ever read, lots of good info
@@Mymatevince no problem :) we are all here to learn so I wanted to share my knowledge with you all
@@Ismcant well, a good explanation is rarely short ;) glad you liked it
@@PulverrostmannenAlso, it was upside-down. So all the electrons will fall out. :)
For those noisy pots, like that volume control - I doubt you got any of it actually inside. Take a little drill bit, with your fingers, drill a little hole in the top. Now you have a way to get the deox inside.
EDIT: I'm amazed what you did fixed it.
Hi vince! love your videos! When checking for continuity sometimes I use a needle to pierce thru the insulation and then I put the multimeter probes in the needles. That way I dont end up with a lot of uninsulated wire.
I've charged several completely flat lithium batteries and they've been completely fine. They even make special lithium profile chargers to do so. I don't think they're unsafe to use, but sometimes it can shorten their life.
Now it does depend on how long they've been flat. As long as it doesn't swell while charging back up then they're safe to put back in service.
It's fine as long as you charge them extremely slowly until they reach their nominal empty voltage. Looks like the TP4056 of the welder did exactly that.
Bigclive has done a video on this, if charged slowly (as a lot of lithium protection chips do, even in the cheapest of the cheap powerbanks), there should be no extra danger from a lithium cell that has gone flat and been recovered in this way.
@@Marineio yep, charging them slowly usually saves them. I'm actually charging up a Nintendo Switch battery right now that was flat.
Yup agree with that. A new lithium batteries are ageing with slow charging cycles, to reform it, to the desired specification. It is basically like reforming a capacitor. It is not dangerous to charge a flat lithium battery as long it is done correctly.
Of all the "fix it" YT'rs Vince's delivery is wonderful and he's the only one who legit makes me think that I COULD fix something if I had the right tools and the ability to apply reasoning to the problem. Thank, Vince, for sharing your troubleshooting steps - they're wonderfully helpful. Stay safe, all!
Great video
You need a ultrasonic cutter, so that you can open speaker boxes like the one in the Google nest thingy
Interesting fixes I would say that the spot welder has one of those FETS faulty and causing voltage to be on those probes permanently. The probes are connected to the battery constantly and all it's doing is shorting the battery when doing a weld because the FETS are not all working one is more that likely leaking.
There doesn't seem to be any button to trigger the fets. Maybe the voltage on the probes is so it can detect when they get shorted by the nickel strip and then trigger the fets to dump the current.
Yes exactly. The FETs are working fine and there is a parallel resistor so the nickel strip contact forms the other side of a potential divider. The welder turns on the FETs (for a preset time) when it sees the welder terminal voltage drop below a certain threshold. Vince is measuring the voltage using his multimeter which has a very high resistance so it doesn’t change the voltage on the welder terminals significantly.
@@SimonQuigley Indeed 😉👍
55:00 There in no undervoltage protection and the MCU is always ON although it draws only few mA, it is enough to flatten the battery. TP4056 is the battery manager but i don't see a small two MOSFETs for under/over voltage cut off atach to it, also there is a boost converter that is always ON - SX1308 at 39:04 that makes the 5V for the MCU.
You are the main man with the knowledge technixbul. As always, thank you for sharing it👌
you talking about the google mini triggered my google box and I got a long speech about how good it is and the differences between mine and it... lol
I would have checked if that welder would weld when turned off. Possibly modern multimeters don't apply much voltage but I remember years ago when doing resistance checks on speakers you would get an audible crackle.
The speaker fix was helpful. Ive got a set of pc speakers with a sub that crackle. I thought it could have been a dry solder and id have to dismantle the lot. I now know potentially i can just open up the control box and clean the controls. 😁👍
I've had a very similar issue with a Google Nest Audio as you with the Google Nest Mini.
Initially, the device was supposed to be on mute; however, upon arrival, it was functioning. A few days later, it reverted to being mute.
Upon disassembling the speaker enclosure, I discovered that one of the copper wires from the speaker was cut improperly at the factory (there were cut marks on the wire, but it was still half attached). It was sticking out the speaker itself and touching the metal housing. I cut the excess wire off, and it's been working flawlessly since December. I guess it was working after delivery because it got moved quite a lot, which moved the wire away from the housing for a short while and after a few days it settled back into the position which cut the audio.
Loved the video, hopefully the speaker continues working for you!
I used to fix crackerly volume controls as a kid 40 years ago. Contact cleaner from RS was a great investment :)
Think that spot welder is faulty - I have the same model, unused for three months or so, and the battery is 3/4 charged still.
Brilliant video Vince, just what I needed after a very stressful day at work. Looking forward to the next one.
Yet another quality video uploaded as usual; definitely 1 hour of my life if happy to spend it watching you.
To get the very best results with carpet cleaning, pre-treat the area 1st, same solution ratio (or stronger on specific areas that need a deep clean), leave it to dwell for 15 minutes and then use your machine as normal , the difference is in the dwell time, the soap sits and loosens dirt for much longer, just like using snow foam on a car really.... if you do a whole room ( and I do several rooms), you can use a garden sprayer, pressurised bottle to the same end. I like watching and listening to you, the B&O was really interesting, always makes me laugh when you are taken a back by something which as a child of the 70's was just the norm!
Another frenzy production. The voltage on the probes of the welder, even when supposedly switched off, hints at a design flaw. I was eagerly waiting the plier-slip shorting test. Most battery monitoring systems just light LEDs etc when the voltage is nearing not safe to recharge, but that in itself drains the battery further. You can design ultra-low current monitoring systems (something has to detect when a charger is connected) but that adds substantially to the cost. Which INK track is that? (4:35).
Some CRC fast dry Contact and Electrical cleaner is a great product for the potentiometers. Then follow up with the Deoxit.
Another excellent video Vince, thank you 👍👍👍
Thats very interesting about the voltage drop thing. I have a Hyundai power station which is supposed to be 1kw an hour and that drains when its off by about 10 watts a day. The only way to keep it operational is to leave it on all the time and plug it in to boost the 10watts up every night. If I turn it completely off, it loses about 300watts in one fell swoop. I think it is a battery management issue. I have read loads of Australian reviews describing the exact same problem.
old school speaker test, use a battery, a AA and connect negative, as soon as positive is connected it should make a sound like a pop as it moves. May have been a strand of wire that wasn't soldered and floated across to make a contact at the speaker itself. Wiggling the wires just moves it? it is possible.
It may have also been the JST connector pins. Sometimes, the portion of the contact that connects to the wire is obstructed by the insulation (because the wire is inserted too far into the connector when it is crimped). Messing with the wire may have fixed the connection..
Incidentally, have you considered doing a video where you make test fixtures ? Building a board that has JST connectors that you can then easily connect to your meter would be handy. I've seen a lot of times in your videos where you are doing finger gymnastics to hold the meter probes on those connectors.
You can also get a JST connector kit with crimper tool to repair those connectors. I don't recall ever seeing you repair one of those but I haven't quite seen all of your videos :)
Modern equipment utilises very poor quality copies of the original Japanese JST connectors, which are extremely prone to failure and IME cause a lot of early failures as they come loose very easily due to sub-standard moulding. Manufacturers know this and get round the problem by gluing them down, which is bad practice as far as I am concerned and can cause further issues down the line as the glue is hard to remove, and can result in ripped off connectors as they tend to be surface mounted and hence a weak mounting. One more area where modern manufacturing sucks!
That spot welder is a case for the recycle bin. It obviously has no discharge protection. Considering the high currents needed for spot welding, this thing is simply a fire hazard. It would have been interesting to see how much current it draws when off. Since you can disconnect the battery, you can just insert your multimeter in current mode. Also how much current is drawn when you short out the terminals when off.
I was watching the part with the spot welder and just realized the frame of the device is aluminum. It's very likely that the two probes are discharging to each other through the aluminum frame since the circuit is always live even when off.
Wouldn't that just mean it has a short and drain / catch fire instantly?
39:25 you can see the date 20230105 printed on the edge of the board for that spot welder. Interesting video, keep up the excellent work.
Vince, as a former Bissell service center repair tech. Bissell are designed to work with their own brand of detergents. Using other brands will cause the heater to build up with soap residue that looks kinda like sheet rock when it comes out.
I have the handheld Pet Pro I think it is called, basically just the hand version. What I find is really great is to use a drill brush to scrub the carpets for stubborn stains.
@my mate vince if a lithium cell drops below the "storage* voltage you can kickstart them manually, and afterwards they are safe to use once returned . I have and loads of others have done this repeatedly. Now the problem is when someone who doesnt know a sausage tries it tries to being the voltage up too quickly and they dont stop when they reach the base level. Nake no mistake they are dangerous and should not be attempted by anyone who has no electronics understanding. So im not endorsing it for everyone. You only have to see the result feom vape modders who were modyfying their vapes and claiming they did nothing and they exploded but later found out they were doubling the battery without a batt management and the internal one wasnt rated, there was a big rhing about it on the 18650's a few years ago. Like anything wlecteic treat it with the utter most respect.
Bissel carpet cleaners are way better than those store rentals. Cheaper to operate, and you can be sure that you aren't slinging filth in your carpets from who knows how many other hundreds or thousands of houses the rental machine has been in.
Re the spot welder, I've dealt with li ion batteries that are so low, and they consistently have high self discharge like what you see here. So it doesn't need to be a bad battery, just badly managed after assembly
I prefer non battery powered devices just to avoid this battery anxiety
Vince great work,
Bissell belt break.... I think this is partly due to the extremely tight belt sitting idle for long periods and putting a tight bend in it. I now let the brushes run for a minute to before getting things wet. If going in long storage remove the belt.
Some models disconnected the drive in the upright position to allow use of the hand tool to avoid leaving a wear mark on the carpet. Deep pile carpets are a strain on the belts so keep things moving. Note it cleans on the return pass. Finally flush through the detergent tank if going in store or things gum up and smell. Great channel.
4Bissell are pretty good for dishwasher parts too.
I have a spot welder which has a different design but draws power when is not in use like yours in the video. If you don't let it in for charge 24/24hrs in max 7 days the battery is flat. Sadly I think all of them have the same design and faults. The problem is that you can't find batteries for them.
I bought a Hoover carpet washer around 6yrs ago (maybe 7yrs ago), used it a few times, but then gave up on it, just too bulky of a product. December-2023, I bought a Hoover spot cleaner, best, investment, I ever made. I use that thing more than I use the carpet washer, it's portable, easier to use, has just as big a fluid and waste tank, and I don't need to do a full wash of carpets.
I think that the spot-welder was meant to spot weld terminals on to (for example) 18650 batteries, not to be powered by them! Those kinds of batteries often have little tabs spot-welded onto them to attached the leads to.
Exactly !
I have a slightly newer spot welder with the display but the probe terminals are always hot even when the charger is off. Just FYI. At 95% charge it reads 4.31 volts at the probe terminals. Don't know what kind of battery it has in it. After about 3 months, it drops to about 70% if it's not used. I charge it every 3 months.
Good to see the nest uses all the same screws and no security torxs
Good battery management circuit would cut power from the cell once the cell has dropped below cut-of point, and only wakes up when it sees the charge. At that point the Lipo/ Li-ion can stay in storage for very long time without worrying about discharging.
I was impressed when you got a de-soldering station and a capacitor test unit, in fact I was envious. I'm Danish, so I love all your B&O projects.
For scratchy speaker controls you don't always need to take them apart. You can spray the volume knob with silicon spray (not silicone) or WD-40 contact cleaner (about £4-5 in the UK). Shouldn't have a problem after that
I cleaned up my Bosch Flexxo vacuum cleaner today. Almost bought a new turbo nozzle.
Is because you have an electronic board consuming in standby -all the boards consume in standby --the law of physics-you should put a switch between the baterry and the mainboard to avoid the dropping issue .simple
I agree that a soft switch is in this case a very bad design decision. A physical switch is much better/safer here IMO.
Love ur vids Vince! Keep on doing this!
Love the videos @mymatevince
Speakers are generally 4, 8 or 16 depending on the application.
Nice work mate love youre vidios
I have a smart TV remote that links with the TV using Bluetooth and stuff .
I'll find it always drained of battery and having to buy AAA like every month .
Finally ,took it to a shop cause warranty was over and a new one costs way too much money ,they found it had a 0.007 amp drain on the board ,very minute for hinder its functioning but a drain is a drain ,it was the main chip and it was pre programmed from factory so it can't be replaced .So the shop guy basically put a new physical switch that would cut off power from battery to the board , the remote isn't pretty anymore with the new red switch but hey ,it works like a charm :)
In power off mode that spot welder shouldn't draw more than microamps. It shouldn't drain more than half the charge in a year.
I suspect a faulty component on the circuit board leaking a tiny bit of current. Probably not enough to give it a heat signature.
I am pretty sure it shouldn't be voltage at the pins when it is powered off.
You got lucky with the volume knob, I would've expected worn-down internals like on game controllers rather than dirt somehow entering that seemingly quite closed-up assembly.
Use a pressure washer on carpet mats , spray with calcium lime and rust treatment and it works great .
Normal when the belts burn through or break it's usually hair wrapped around the spindle next to the bearings
35:36 i got the same amp meter and mine does the same under low current it won't show anything
some batteries have a BMS that has a mosfet that disables it when it goes below a certain threshold, i think its working like it should you could check with your multimeter and do a current mesurement and see what the idle current is
Thanks Karthor 👍
The circuit doesn't have a battery protection ic because you will need high power MOSFETs in the protection circuit. Because otherwise they will burn out during the welding process. So it is better to not use a battery protection circuit, since it's only the deep discharge protection is missing😅. But I think there is a design flow in the circuit. Otherwise when it's turned off, the microcontroller should be in a deep sleep state, and should only consume a few micro amps(depending on the microcontroller). So maybe the circuit is not that well designed and that causes the battery drain.
The spot welder, those kind that auto sense will always have voltage across the welding probes, that is how they sense, the return voltage is sampled and that then tells the spot welder what resistance there is between the nickle strips, you were not pushing down soldily enough the first time, therby inducing wrong readings and so the welder did not pulse, try it again pressing down firmly you'll see the firing is pretty consistent. The battery draining though does indicate a design flaw in the powered construction, the drain in standby should not be that big, poor standby power managment design..... Just my 2c though.
Thank you for sharing the info on this👌
That welder is designed incorrectly. It shouldn't be leaking battery voltage into the probes. The probes being shorted together in shipping is what killed the battery to begin with. Beyond that, a good battery management controller would completely cut off the battery when the voltage got too low. Unfortunately good bmc chips are not as common as they should be especially in cheap generic products like this. All devices that just have a standby mode instead of a physical switch that disconnects the battery will slowly drain power until the either the BMC disconnects the battery or the battery drains to nothing.
36:13 - "Can't be used because cell is below safe level"
Not true. Lithium cells can be drained to 0v and be recharged, which is what you're seeing in that spot welding device. When a lithium battery goes below its working voltage, it has to be slowly trickle charged back to its working voltage to avoid the cell going on fire. BMS boards that don't have lockouts will trickle charge lithium cells back to their working voltage before rapid charging them to their full capacity.
Discharging the cell to 0v isn't great for the battery, but it doesn't destroy it. What's really bad for lithium batteries is reverse charging them after you drain them to 0v, which often happens in battery packs with them in series. The weaker cells are discharged first, and if the protection circuitry doesn't detect this, the discharged cells will start being reverse charged and destroy the battery.
What happens in reverse charging is that the copper ions start migrating across the insulation layer and blow holes in it. Eventually you'll get a short between the anode and cathode and the battery won't hold a charge anymore. It's easy to find batteries this has happened to, they'll rapidly discharge back to 0v once taken off the charger. They also tend to get hot, depending on how fast they're being charged.
Undercharged lithium ion batteries lose capacity, overcharged ones produce fire risk... You have it backwards :)
Vince, if you're going to touch a pcb for heat please use one hand only and put your other hand in your pocket. It really doesn't take much current to stop you heart.
lithium are suppose to discharge back to 50% and not to stay fully charge as its not good for lithium to stay fully charged.the system will be designed to discharged slowly back to 50% when not in use for a long time......so the system is working fine to start its discharge slowly
I'm having Dyson belt flashbacks again
When are you bringing out part 2 Vince
I use CRC 05103 QD Electronic Cleaner on volume takes the scratching sound out like new from amazon
Grrat video 😅😅
Nice fixes, looking forward to the next parts :) I should do the same fix to my PC speakers, same problem, scratchy volume and bass/treble dials.
Send the spot welder to big clive for reverse engineering! "One moment please".
So your going o need to vacuum then prespray with a prespray then agitate the prespray wait about 10 mins or so the extract with the machine the n greem the carpet to allow to dry faster. also spot clean on the stains before if needed
Badly designed spot "Spot Welder? "spot spot?"? meh..
it's to be used for on the spot so yeah.. Any ho..
It needs some bright spark to redesign the device with
a switch.. 😉
APU👁👍
Nice one i would like to see a part 2
some nice wins there. I just had a thought, you do realise you were cleaning the Bissell, so doesn't that makes you a vacuum cleaner? 😉
I've been watching your videos for years now and they encouraged me to give a go at repairing my 3ds charging port a few weeks back.
It was faulty due to a bad charging cable being used for years, so it was bent in weird angles and eventually stopped working almost entirely.
It was very simple, just needed to add a bit of solder to some of the contacts and now it works perfectly.
It felt really good!!
Thank you for making these videos, I enjoy them a lot..
May I make a suggestion? Buy a cheap set of deep well sockets for the nuts like on the volume control. Makes it easier to undo the nuts rather than a pair of needle nose pliers. Also another way to test a speaker is to have a 9volt battery and touch the + and - of the speaker to the battery. We used to do that when installing car stereos and the owners wanted to keep the speakers that were already with the car. We were able to distinguish from left and right and front and back speakers without a wiring diagram.
All I'd say is I hate when people test with a 9V battery... Sure, you can hear it from across the room, but a little 4 ohm 500 mW speaker might not like dissipating 20 W (A PP3 can't manage 20W, at least not for long)..but still, some tweeters if not protected by a series cap and older esp. high sensitivity units will not like it, and someone used to using nine volts might hook up something with more punch... and a glowing voicecoil will result. Just use a 1.5V battery - and its good enough to observe polarity too.
Not nice to put a DC voltage across a speaker. Can damage it, even though the damage may not be obvious.
@@noyb7920Quite, but 1.5 v is fine.
hi you are very right about the ic it is taking power it's doe's the same in the ebikes i have worked on best to put a note on the top
power up a month if not used
getting gear like you have is the thing about having a channel i used to get this to you are finding it's taking alot of your time now i bet
Lithium batteries all die out eventually. I have to charge my drone batteries every 6 months as they continue to drain. Had to spend £200 as 2 of the batteries out of the three could not be charged back up. Also one of my 1.5v ryobi drill batteries went into low power state. Managed to get some use out of it after a video I see on CZcams but the damage had already been done and just died again maybe 3 month later.
*The Spotweder is absolutely fine* These Spotwelder Batterys are only "Shock" Batterys for anormous fast Discharge. They are not mobile or Holding Charge in that sense. They are not for keeping Charge over a long period of time. At first you always have to Charge them for at least 10-20 Mins and then they are only providing some pretty hefty SHOCKS to Weld. And always put a "Powerful" (5Ah at least) USB Charger on it while you Weld some Batterys.
These "LiPOs" have a completely diferent Formula then Regular 18650/26650's .. They are specific build for Precharge and discharge Bursts in x 100Amps Scale
Lipo should never go below 2.5 volts, which is critically lowno matter what is designed for
You are absolutely 100% right in case of a regular "LiPo Accumulator" . Everything below 2.5V is Dangerous on a "LiPo" . But these Pouches are not like normal Batterys. They are only for this purpose. I am not shure if they even called "Lipo" @@njakts
@@Hotpack7279You say these things like you are entirely sure, but why are you so sure of what you say?
Is that a LiPo battery or a supercapacitor ? It looks like a cap to me and it would explain why it is so flat. It also explains why the draw is low because charging a supercap can consume a huge amount of current if it is not limited (essentially a short circuit). An LiPo charger circuit is also a great way to charge a supercap. Finally, a supercap has a much higher self discharge rate than a battery.
Well then.
Havent seen that before
its an aliexpress spotwelder so its gonna stop working next time. Its probbably the fault of the probes touching at a low voltage shorting it out a bit draining it self i think.
wonder if one of the mosfets is draining the power - as i would assume that the probs shouldn't have battery voltage until the brain turns the power to the main chip.
The term you are looking for in terms of idle power is standby power - all electric devices that use software switches to turn them on and off have that draw. This device may have a larger draw because of fault, or it might just be the intended standby power.
Exactly one of the mosfets is shorted and constantly powering the leads, or the brain chip (controlling the mosfets and opening them constantly) is gone bad. At least is easy to check and looks like a pretty solid tool.
Though even if that is checked, for the safety of the battery in place it would need to be replaced as running down to 0 does chemically change the battery increasing internal resitances and causing it to heat up more when charging. it isn't as bad as reverse charging, but it is still not recommended to use the battery.
Fantastic vid as always Vince, which watch is that?
I'm thinking it is either the 1990s Omega Speedmaster or in another clip it is just a cheapo Pagani GMT, basically a Rolex GMT Pepsi copy, but at least they haven't called it Bolex or Yolex😂
🤣🤣🤣@@Mymatevince
The red mat gets its first battle scar.
Yes, I would have found a brick or something.
you can just use any normal electrical contact cleaner
very interesting video but when testing the spot welder it looked like it sparked towards your right hand did it shock you? at 51:12 keep up the good work!
My dji mini 3 pro drone is designed to drain the battery's down to a certain point though.
That welder might be charging a super capacitor after the battery gets connected. So, that might be the reason the voltage drops for while.
So ... with the welder. Is it safe to have voltage on the bits that do the welding when it is off? Surely that must indicate a serious problem on the board?
Shouldn’t the brush stop when you using the attachment? Like only when you pull the handle back. Also is it sucking from the brush part and the pipe? Seems a strange setup
Love the videos. Constructive suggestion. Perhaps you could section up the video to each fix on the timeline. I personally watch them all but other maybe don't.
mod the spot welder to run of 5 volt adapter instead of the battery put capacitor
A bissell is far better than a rugdoctor and I've used a rugdoctor many times.
Where the rugdoctor lets you down is the brush. It agitates by moving side to side like a vibrating motion whereas a bissell has a rotating bristle brush, sometimes two rotating brushes depending on the model a rotating brush can achieve a deeper clean when it comes to long pile carpets.
I decided to invest in a bissell Proheat pet, many years ago and I'd highly recommend it to anyone. Rugdoctor, not worth it.