People I learn from this video. Thats all, no need to stab another tradesman's back if he do it different from how you do it. maybe he was taught differently from you. How about share your insight with them on here so we can all learn better. No one is trying to take credit of your beautiful work but yourself. So quit the stabbing and share the love people.
Thats a good comment. I worked for a builder who made the bricklayer place a support under centre of lintel. What I used to do was only do two courses then let dry as weight of bricks can cause lintel to sag. You place a straight edge under most lintels and you will see they are bowed. Not many at all bricklayers do the right thing and support under lintel during construction.
When you put your last brick in both faces should be buttered up with mortar and the wall brick forming the jamb near your last brick. If you butter two sides of any masonry sliding together it will tend not to rip off the piece you are setting and form a better quality joint that will pack tightly. That way you have a solid joint better to resist movements and the elements brick is exposed to. . Also I prefer to have a bit more mortar on each soldier so when pressed to the previous one there is a better bond. Also you can fill the holes in the brick on the scaffold or board for less voids. In warmer weather I hope to make a video on how to joint up a soldier or rowlock with one trowel full of mortar in a matter of 2-3 seconds. Some brick require a bit of mortar on lintel due to the shape of them few brick are truly flat and square. Aesthetically I prefer not to notice any mortar. Make sure weeps are down dry on flashing to let water escape even below the weep itself. Pick the squarer end of brick to go on lintel if possible as the eye will tend to go to the bottom for sighting the aris.
Thanks for comment Steven. Yes now all bricklayers here use big maxibond or fast wall bricks they are crap. No bond I now do heaps maintenance on these work ranging from cracked corners so removing render and reinforcing corners wiht steel rods and mesh but 2.5mm steel fabrication and stitching reo bars. Quality in Western Australia is in a shambles. Hoping standards in U.S is of high level as I'm sure you take pride in your work as I do in mine. Yes I did my apprentice in 1976-79 Cheers.
I see what your saying but the building regulations in the UK require that 10mm mortar joints be under all brickwork, so in this example he's done the work correct for the British construction industry and we probably vary from you in the States. Really enjoy hearing how its done all around the world. Thanks for the reply.
why is every complaining about muck on the lintel he has a dpc tray? you cant hang the dpc out of the facework.you have to cut it back a little. As long as the tray is past the back of the weep holes and the end of the tray is turned up should be fine. well that's how me do it in England anyway. good job
Your weep holes are sitting on the motor bed. The moisture will seep out from under the soldier course before it gets to the bottom of the weep hole. If your going to show people how to do it, show them the right way.
Also it is nice to set flashing in a proper mastic to prevent moisture from getting between flashing and steel lintel. You can't ever fix rust later if it happens without removing the masonry. Let the flashing project at least 1/4" to make a drip as most projects don't use a stainless formed drip edge. UV rays will deteriorate most if not all vinyl flashing over time. Flashings should cover the entire lintel even where not seen and an additional few inches on each side. End dams are recommended but rarely used. Hot dipped galvanized lintels are the best. Where the lintels are in the wall try to keep them back enough to get flashing and mortar in front of them for protection. I think a 1/2" is nice but it may make laying the brick on lintel a bit more of a PITA. My thoughts after 43+ years in the union and 39 years a union contractor.
Worked as labor for 4 years. In no way an expert, but any angle iron over a window, garage or patio door soldier or not had plastic rolled out. Never once did we put mud directly on an iron.
i left school at 16 and was a apprentice for 3 years and worked everyday since i left school. I earn good money to support my family. I may not have 20 years experience but didn't know it took over 8 years to learn brickwork - we are all still learning. All i see you is moan at every video u look at. Lighten up u are grumpy as fcuk.
brickwork is very neat, along with the pointing, HOWEVER, the damp tray should be turned up at both ends (which cannot be seen here) with a weep vent also at the end. well done on the neatness though.
Thanks for the comment, i guess you just get used to using one make or another! Agree that they are of equal quality. But it seems to be the case that the younger bricklayers are using marshalltown and you can get these everywhere here in the uk, but only one place i know of sells WHS now! I may have to buy a bulk load to see me through till i retire as i wouldn't want to start again using a different trowel! Ha ha. Enjoyed the chat, thanks and Good luck
P.S I have left one of these lintels in my back yard a small 1 i never found a opening for its ther for almost 10 years or more mayb,left to all the elements rain snow etc and a few blobs of concrete on it and still no sign of rust.
The rest of his work looks really great it looks like it is printed and im sure he is a great mason .The problem i see is the mortar under the soldier. If you look at any building that is over 10 years old the mortar pushes out from under the solider. Some brick are very out of square and you may need to apply a small amount of mortar to the bottom of the brick to hold it plum. the best bet is to course out for the size of the solider brick with no mortar underneath. There is no code just facts.
Good practice to prop under the lintel, but here in the uk strictly speaking we're only allowed to lay upto 450mm high per day, we don't but that's what we're meant to. Also the weight bearing on a lintel isn't that great because if you can imagine a triangle with the base spanning the lintel and bearing each side 150mm then there is only that weight on the lintel, the other bricks are bearing on the brickwork to the side of the opening. Have i explained myself well enough? E
Yes thankyou Stuart. Interesting you say you are meant to lay 450mm a day.Here some bricklayers lay a whole wall 2.5 metre high in a few hours in maxi bricks. And surely the wet mortar can't possibly be dry enough for that yet they do I have seen it. My father said when they built Royal Perth hospital they were only allowed to lay300 bricks per day. I think the strength of the mortar was4 parts sand to one cement Early days they used to build around perimeter now they build whole walls not right
not bad Lad, but with any heavy brick like blue engineering, there should always be a support over window and door openings, as the catnic does bend over curtain lengths before brickwork as gone off. Just a point my friend. Measure at both ends and measure in the centre without support, until brickwork as gone off.
I have been taught by Rob and worked on site with him and you will not find a better Bricklayer anywhere! I know he uses a WHS London pattern 11", an old British made trowel as I use a WHS Philadelphia 11"
No he should not be spreading mud onto an angle iron. No he should not have any lines hung on the wall.He should be tailing his edges with the brick work on either side of his soldiers with a 4 foot level to ensure that the soldiers are lineing up with the wall.Once he crosses over the window, that stretcher course will regain that 3/8" he lost by not spreading a bed joint on the angle iron.Where's the drip edge?
if you course out for the size of the Brick you will not need to put mortar on the lentil. If the Brick are not square you may dab mortar on one side of the brick or the other to keep them plumb but any building i have looked at that had Mortar spread for a bed joint the mortar always washes out . I guess its ok know i have a small business and do a lot of repair work on large commercial building and it pays me to repack them with mortar . So keep the unfull head joints and mortar on Lentils
thanks stuart thats very kind off you to offer but i got the same one that rob is using on ebay uk a while back,payed 15 quid for it postage included from the uk .theres a guy on there at the moment selling the whs 11inch philladelphia,s with the soft grip handle,s for 17.99 postage included to the uk.by the way we build over the windows the same way rob is doing it in the video.
hi stuart.all the bricklayers in ireland use marshalltown most use 34/11 wide londons with maybe 10 percent useing the19/11 philadelphia,s.first trowel i had was a whs,suppliers over here won,t stock the whs anymore, no point in it because they can,t sell them.i think both brands are of equal quailty,.from watching videos on here it seems most of the uk bricklayers prefer marshalltown as well, with the philadelphia 19/11 being the most popular i agree rob looks like he is a good bricklayer.
Ronald, we're also meant to use a ratio of 6:1:1 above damp which is not going to be a strong as a 4:1 and therefore with the lime in the mortar will take even longer to cure. But things are done very different on site! Sure it's the same in your neck of the woods?
Hey Ron He is only spaning a small space im not sure but it looks like 4 ft . A span that small will not need a stiff leg .Anything over that though i would place a 2x4 every 4 ft . If u have a lot of Masonry going over lentil i would prefer a 2x6 or posibbly a 2x8 . I am from US n i have worked on many jobs were spreading Mortar on the Lentil will get you ran off the job but in the people from England were saying something about a Dpc I have been in the trade for 30 + years and never heard of
Yes so many bricks are not square. The bricks we buy here the way they are cooked not real good. It would be interesting the quality of bricks you get in U.S. I mean I buy marshalltown trowels as they are in my view the best. I have an account marshalltown online. Face brickwork with many bonds in construction is great.. I'm actually a plasterer by trade but my father was a builder and we built houses I bricked houses. I now lay a flat bed when bricklaying as I feel the mortar and damp brick.
I LOVE THE VIDEOS, BUT THE MUSIC HAS GOT TO GO !! I am trying to concentrate on the different technics and it is very very distracting to hear this inane music, PLEASE keep it professional and AXE the vid's thank you!!
I'm sick to the back teeth of seeing running bond everywhere. Throw a bit of Flemish bond up in the mix, keep things spicy. Say what you want about the Victorians but they took pride in what they did. 'Craft' was their watchword not 'expediency'.
Neat job. How does one fit independent RSJs on inner leaf and outer leaf with Polyiso insulation between to minimise thermal bridging and meet minimum EST Accredited Construction Details?
Maybe the lintels we use in the UK are different to your steel angle iron as i've never experienced them cracking an i've been working " in the building" for 17 years now.
Surely if you don't put a 10mm bed on the lintel then to courses won't be in line be 10mm under so how do you over come that you can't put a lintel on a 10mm bed of muck either so no win surely but I can't understand why you can't use muck on it too
I've regularly had this problem, i usually only put a thin scrape of compo under the lintel on the brickwork and also increase my gauge slightly on the three courses above the lintel, so my soldiers have a better bed under them on the lintel.
Nice video . but I wonder if your a red seal bricklayer ? If you ar well you would knw that ou should never have mortar on a angle iron . Sometime a little little bit it passable but man u put a big thick bed joint on there .
Why don't you just course out for the soilder that way you dont need any Mortar on top of the steel angle Iron ? Its weird how every body does things so different from place to place. If you look at a building that has mortar on the steel after about 10 or so years the mortar on the steel will crack and start working its way out . Ive been on jobs that the project Manager would go nuts if he saw steel on his mortar because all you would have to do is get down a tiny bit to match courseing
You talk about Masons and cell phones where are you based for work? Maybe building regs vary from location to location? I personally know the chap in this video and have to defend him somewhat! Been taught at College and worked with Rob and you will not find a more knowledgeable, experienced and better bricklayer anywhere! I can say with confidence that every aspect of this video will be completely correct way of doing things here in the UK.
OK let me try 2 break this down to you .In Baltimore Md the weather gets below freezing when this happens i dont care how many weep waffers you put between the heads of your brick when it rains moisture will be retained by the mortar that is siting on your steal then when the temp drops below freezing the steal will not allow for the mortar to expand then when this happens there is only one way for it to go out from between the brick and the steal and on to the ground. Does that help you DUH ?
If you wanted me to send over a WHS trowel let me know and i'd post one to you. But as i said you do eventually get used to a different trowel, eventually though.
Im not a grumpy old fuck if you have been laying brick for 20 years you cant be but 10 years younger than me, Anyway it just pisses me off to see people have videos that are teaching Masonry the wrong way. If you are any kind of Mason and take pride in what you do you know mortar does not belong on top of steel . Have i ever had to do it yea i have but i don't make videos of me doing something wrong. Im really pretty easy to get along with other than that but i take teaching people serious!!!
Here you go again being a little bitch . You have notl been in the trade long enough to notice right from wrong you still have training wheels on your trowl for christ sake. How many people do you employ in the trade of Masonry? And how many masons have you trained from Mason tenders. No you never labored have you? I wouldnt even hire someone unless they started out from a Tender. Take alot of that shit you learned in school and forget it like putting mortar on angle irons.
All that shit is vinyl flashing and when not in the class room and exposed to the elements the mortar cracks up between the vinyl and brick as well . Get out of the class room and have a look around DUH . I own my own business and have to De program students who go through bullshit vo tech schools like yours. Id rather train a Mason from a Labor its much easier. Not to say your a bad teacher but half these videos on here the star's look like begginners. Not all but half.
People I learn from this video. Thats all, no need to stab another tradesman's back if he do it different from how you do it. maybe he was taught differently from you. How about share your insight with them on here so we can all learn better. No one is trying to take credit of your beautiful work but yourself. So quit the stabbing and share the love people.
Thats a good comment. I worked for a builder who made the bricklayer place a support under centre of lintel. What I used to do was only do two courses then let dry as weight of bricks can cause lintel to sag. You place a straight edge under most lintels and you will see they are bowed. Not many at all bricklayers do the right thing and support under lintel during construction.
This guy's wall is very well done and clean.
When you put your last brick in both faces should be buttered up with mortar and the wall brick forming the jamb near your last brick. If you butter two sides of any masonry sliding together it will tend not to rip off the piece you are setting and form a better quality joint that will pack tightly. That way you have a solid joint better to resist movements and the elements brick is exposed to. . Also I prefer to have a bit more mortar on each soldier so when pressed to the previous one there is a better bond. Also you can fill the holes in the brick on the scaffold or board for less voids. In warmer weather I hope to make a video on how to joint up a soldier or rowlock with one trowel full of mortar in a matter of 2-3 seconds. Some brick require a bit of mortar on lintel due to the shape of them few brick are truly flat and square. Aesthetically I prefer not to notice any mortar. Make sure weeps are down dry on flashing to let water escape even below the weep itself. Pick the squarer end of brick to go on lintel if possible as the eye will tend to go to the bottom for sighting the aris.
Thanks for comment Steven. Yes now all bricklayers here use big maxibond or fast wall bricks they are crap. No bond I now do heaps maintenance on these work ranging from cracked corners so removing render and reinforcing corners wiht steel rods and mesh but 2.5mm steel fabrication and stitching reo bars. Quality in Western Australia is in a shambles. Hoping standards in U.S is of high level as I'm sure you take pride in your work as I do in mine. Yes I did my apprentice in 1976-79 Cheers.
Ronald Martens thin brick
thin brick
I see what your saying but the building regulations in the UK require that 10mm mortar joints be under all brickwork, so in this example he's done the work correct for the British construction industry and we probably vary from you in the States. Really enjoy hearing how its done all around the world. Thanks for the reply.
why is every complaining about muck on the lintel he has a dpc tray? you cant hang the dpc out of the facework.you have to cut it back a little. As long as the tray is past the back of the weep holes and the end of the tray is turned up should be fine. well that's how me do it in England anyway. good job
Your weep holes are sitting on the motor bed. The moisture will seep out from under the soldier course before it gets to the bottom of the weep hole. If your going to show people how to do it, show them the right way.
Also it is nice to set flashing in a proper mastic to prevent moisture from getting between flashing and steel lintel. You can't ever fix rust later if it happens without removing the masonry. Let the flashing project at least 1/4" to make a drip as most projects don't use a stainless formed drip edge. UV rays will deteriorate most if not all vinyl flashing over time. Flashings should cover the entire lintel even where not seen and an additional few inches on each side. End dams are recommended but rarely used. Hot dipped galvanized lintels are the best. Where the lintels are in the wall try to keep them back enough to get flashing and mortar in front of them for protection. I think a 1/2" is nice but it may make laying the brick on lintel a bit more of a PITA. My thoughts after 43+ years in the union and 39 years a union contractor.
Worked as labor for 4 years. In no way an expert, but any angle iron over a window, garage or patio door soldier or not had plastic rolled out. Never once did we put mud directly on an iron.
i left school at 16 and was a apprentice for 3 years and worked everyday since i left school. I earn good money to support my family. I may not have 20 years experience but didn't know it took over 8 years to learn brickwork - we are all still learning. All i see you is moan at every video u look at. Lighten up u are grumpy as fcuk.
Very decent job if you ask me! Only thing to criticise is the weeps on a bed of mortar. Apart from that its bang on son. Tidy job 👍
brickwork is very neat, along with the pointing, HOWEVER, the damp tray should be turned up at both ends (which cannot be seen here) with a weep vent also at the end. well done on the neatness though.
Thanks for the comment, i guess you just get used to using one make or another! Agree that they are of equal quality. But it seems to be the case that the younger bricklayers are using marshalltown and you can get these everywhere here in the uk, but only one place i know of sells WHS now! I may have to buy a bulk load to see me through till i retire as i wouldn't want to start again using a different trowel! Ha ha. Enjoyed the chat, thanks and Good luck
P.S I have left one of these lintels in my back yard a small 1 i never found a opening for its ther for almost 10 years or more mayb,left to all the elements rain snow etc and a few blobs of concrete on it and still no sign of rust.
agreed,last brick going in should have buttered the bricks on either side, and it is weird seeing mortar on the angle
The rest of his work looks really great it looks like it is printed and im sure he is a great mason .The problem i see is the mortar under the soldier. If you look at any building that is over 10 years old the mortar pushes out from under the solider. Some brick are very out of square and you may need to apply a small amount of mortar to the bottom of the brick to hold it plum. the best bet is to course out for the size of the solider brick with no mortar underneath. There is no code just facts.
Good practice to prop under the lintel, but here in the uk strictly speaking we're only allowed to lay upto 450mm high per day, we don't but that's what we're meant to. Also the weight bearing on a lintel isn't that great because if you can imagine a triangle with the base spanning the lintel and bearing each side 150mm then there is only that weight on the lintel, the other bricks are bearing on the brickwork to the side of the opening. Have i explained myself well enough?
E
Yes thankyou Stuart. Interesting you say you are meant to lay 450mm a day.Here some bricklayers lay a whole wall 2.5 metre high in a few hours in maxi bricks. And surely the wet mortar can't possibly be dry enough for that yet they do I have seen it. My father said when they built Royal Perth hospital they were only allowed to lay300 bricks per day. I think the strength of the mortar was4 parts sand to one cement Early days they used to build around perimeter now they build whole walls not right
not bad Lad, but with any heavy brick like blue engineering, there should always be a support over window and door openings, as the catnic does bend over curtain lengths before brickwork as gone off. Just a point my friend. Measure at both ends and measure in the centre without support, until brickwork as gone off.
I have been taught by Rob and worked on site with him and you will not find a better Bricklayer anywhere! I know he uses a WHS London pattern 11", an old British made trowel as I use a WHS Philadelphia 11"
construction is an art.
No he should not be spreading mud onto an angle iron. No he should not have any lines hung on the wall.He should be tailing his edges with the brick work on either side of his soldiers with a 4 foot level to ensure that the soldiers are lineing up with the wall.Once he crosses over the window, that stretcher course will regain that 3/8" he lost by not spreading a bed joint on the angle iron.Where's the drip edge?
if you course out for the size of the Brick you will not need to put mortar on the lentil. If the Brick are not square you may dab mortar on one side of the brick or the other to keep them plumb but any building i have looked at that had Mortar spread for a bed joint the mortar always washes out . I guess its ok know i have a small business and do a lot of repair work on large commercial building and it pays me to repack them with mortar . So keep the unfull head joints and mortar on Lentils
thanks stuart thats very kind off you to offer but i got the same one that rob is using on ebay uk a while back,payed 15 quid for it postage included from the uk .theres a guy on there at the moment selling the whs 11inch philladelphia,s with the soft grip handle,s for 17.99 postage included to the uk.by the way we build over the windows the same way rob is doing it in the video.
hi stuart.all the bricklayers in ireland use marshalltown most use 34/11 wide londons with maybe 10 percent useing the19/11 philadelphia,s.first trowel i had was a whs,suppliers over here won,t stock the whs anymore, no point in it because they can,t sell them.i think both brands are of equal quailty,.from watching videos on here it seems most of the uk bricklayers prefer marshalltown as well, with the philadelphia 19/11 being the most popular i agree rob looks like he is a good bricklayer.
Ronald, we're also meant to use a ratio of 6:1:1 above damp which is not going to be a strong as a 4:1 and therefore with the lime in the mortar will take even longer to cure. But things are done very different on site! Sure it's the same in your neck of the woods?
Hey Ron He is only spaning a small space im not sure but it looks like 4 ft . A span that small will not need a stiff leg .Anything over that though i would place a 2x4 every 4 ft . If u have a lot of Masonry going over lentil i would prefer a 2x6 or posibbly a 2x8 .
I am from US n i have worked on many jobs were spreading Mortar on the Lentil will get you ran off the job but in the people from England were saying something about a Dpc I have been in the trade for 30 + years and never heard of
Never put mortar on steel especially in those amounts.
Bravos
Yes so many bricks are not square. The bricks we buy here the way they are cooked not real good. It would be interesting the quality of bricks you get in U.S. I mean I buy marshalltown trowels as they are in my view the best. I have an account marshalltown online. Face brickwork with many bonds in construction is great.. I'm actually a plasterer by trade but my father was a builder and we built houses I bricked houses. I now lay a flat bed when bricklaying as I feel the mortar and damp brick.
Never understood the reasoning behind all the damp trays over lintels.
ancient brick work never have building regulations no regulations out space either👽
I LOVE THE VIDEOS, BUT THE MUSIC HAS GOT TO GO !! I am trying to concentrate on the different technics and it is very very distracting to hear this inane music, PLEASE keep it professional and AXE the vid's thank you!!
Everyone saying the weepers shouldn't be sitting on mortar bed...so what should it be like?
I'm sick to the back teeth of seeing running bond everywhere. Throw a bit of Flemish bond up in the mix, keep things spicy. Say what you want about the Victorians but they took pride in what they did. 'Craft' was their watchword not 'expediency'.
Neat job. How does one fit independent RSJs on inner leaf and outer leaf with Polyiso insulation between to minimise thermal bridging and meet minimum EST Accredited Construction Details?
Maybe the lintels we use in the UK are different to your steel angle iron as i've never experienced them cracking an i've been working " in the building" for 17 years now.
I'll have a look on ebay as well then, thanks
Surely if you don't put a 10mm bed on the lintel then to courses won't be in line be 10mm under so how do you over come that you can't put a lintel on a 10mm bed of muck either so no win surely but I can't understand why you can't use muck on it too
I've regularly had this problem, i usually only put a thin scrape of compo under the lintel on the brickwork and also increase my gauge slightly on the three courses above the lintel, so my soldiers have a better bed under them on the lintel.
esos ladrillos oscuros son mas reforzados estan b muy buenos me gusta el tono de gris
fernando mario Rey I
Nice video . but I wonder if your a red seal bricklayer ? If you ar well you would knw that ou should never have mortar on a angle iron . Sometime a little little bit it passable but man u put a big thick bed joint on there .
+Nadia Francoeur Chavarie holds down the damp coarse.
thats real nice work.what make of trowel is that your useing.
Why don't you just course out for the soilder that way you dont need any Mortar on top of the steel angle Iron ? Its weird how every body does things so different from place to place. If you look at a building that has mortar on the steel after about 10 or so years the mortar on the steel will crack and start working its way out . Ive been on jobs that the project Manager would go nuts if he saw steel on his mortar because all you would have to do is get down a tiny bit to match courseing
You talk about Masons and cell phones where are you based for work? Maybe building regs vary from location to location? I personally know the chap in this video and have to defend him somewhat! Been taught at College and worked with Rob and you will not find a more knowledgeable, experienced and better bricklayer anywhere! I can say with confidence that every aspect of this video will be completely correct way of doing things here in the UK.
there you are again moaning at peoples work * yawn*
OK let me try 2 break this down to you .In Baltimore Md the weather gets below freezing when this happens i dont care how many weep waffers you put between the heads of your brick when it rains moisture will be retained by the mortar that is siting on your steal then when the temp drops below freezing the steal will not allow for the mortar to expand then when this happens there is only one way for it to go out from between the brick and the steal and on to the ground. Does that help you DUH ?
If you wanted me to send over a WHS trowel let me know and i'd post one to you. But as i said you do eventually get used to a different trowel, eventually though.
Where can I find a house foundation video on here worth watching..?? and from someone who,s know,s what there doing..??
how do ya get that golden mortar colour is it white sand in the mix
what do you call the the concrete or whatever thaat is used to build up past a window?
late but I don't know exactly what you mean. The silver thing is called kingspan it's insulation used on new builds.
hows bricklaying on your back ??
👏👍👍👍👍👍
DUH
Im not a grumpy old fuck if you have been laying brick for 20 years you cant be but 10 years younger than me, Anyway it just pisses me off to see people have videos that are teaching Masonry the wrong way. If you are any kind of Mason and take pride in what you do you know mortar does not belong on top of steel . Have i ever had to do it yea i have but i don't make videos of me doing something wrong. Im really pretty easy to get along with other than that but i take teaching people serious!!!
talking out of where the sun don't shine |
Now your just getting plain rediculous. Is it that hard to admitt what im saying make's perfect sense?
Here you go again being a little bitch . You have notl been in the trade long enough to notice right from wrong you still have training wheels on your trowl for christ sake. How many people do you employ in the trade of Masonry? And how many masons have you trained from Mason tenders. No you never labored have you? I wouldnt even hire someone unless they started out from a Tender. Take alot of that shit you learned in school and forget it like putting mortar on angle irons.
All that shit is vinyl flashing and when not in the class room and exposed to the elements the mortar cracks up between the vinyl and brick as well . Get out of the class room and have a look around DUH . I own my own business and have to De program students who go through bullshit vo tech schools like yours. Id rather train a Mason from a Labor its much easier. Not to say your a bad teacher but half these videos on here the star's look like begginners. Not all but half.