As from what I understand it doesn't control the color wheel at all. But the wheel is synchronized with the mirrors. So if you want a purple pixel that particular mirror stays on(reflects light towards the lens) while the white light passes the blue and red filter but is off(does not reflect light towards the lens) while light is passing the green filter. So basically that pixel is off for 33% of the time for a full saturated purple pixel. I hope that helped also 11 months later. :)
when you devide white light,you get red,green and blue,but when you combine red,green and blue together,you get tadaaa,,white again,i know how the color signal controls the 3 dlp light system but how does the color signal controls the color wheel???
The DMD Formatter Boards aren't the problem, it's the heat sink not properly making contact with the rear part of the DLP chip. The factory thermal contact material is just a cheap and weak thermal pad that has a small gap, in this context, that makes a huge difference in cooling ability. Upon replacing, use a silver based thermal compound paste instead. If the DMD Formatter Boards were defective and unreliable, there would be no picture at all, and the mere fact of replacing the DLP chip would yield the same white dots in the same spot every time. The fact is; DLP chips get hot, semi-conductors degrade with intense heat, therefore cool it them. Problem solved; a simple yet sophisticated remedy to a highly overlooked problem.
I have a 6 color Mitsubishi DLP! Everyone likes the amazing colors this tv puts out!
As from what I understand it doesn't control the color wheel at all. But the wheel is synchronized with the mirrors. So if you want a purple pixel that particular mirror stays on(reflects light towards the lens) while the white light passes the blue and red filter but is off(does not reflect light towards the lens) while light is passing the green filter. So basically that pixel is off for 33% of the time for a full saturated purple pixel.
I hope that helped also 11 months later. :)
Thanks for the video! Until now I didn't know how DLP works. Thanks a lot
Thanks! Excellent video/
BEST PERFORMANCE IN TOSHIPA ITS LIFE
The math and angles involved in this shit would make you head explode.
This is old tech. It's 6 years later now. The color-wheel is no longer needed.
Thank you!
wow that's friggin cool
Never knew it was like that
when you devide white light,you get red,green and blue,but when you combine red,green and blue together,you get tadaaa,,white again,i know how the color signal controls the 3 dlp light system but how does the color signal controls the color wheel???
oh fuck shit just got complex as hell!
Enter led . Death to projection
i need to remove my lamp from my phillips 60pl9200d/37where to find it and , and how do i removed it.
1024 shades of grey made me laugh...
35 trillion colors.
My Mit dyed 3 years old, mIrrors went bad, new chip 800$ never again.
your DMD chips are all broken, and unreliable , black and white dots start to appear after a few months.
The DMD Formatter Boards aren't the problem, it's the heat sink not properly making contact with the rear part of the DLP chip. The factory thermal contact material is just a cheap and weak thermal pad that has a small gap, in this context, that makes a huge difference in cooling ability. Upon replacing, use a silver based thermal compound paste instead. If the DMD Formatter Boards were defective and unreliable, there would be no picture at all, and the mere fact of replacing the DLP chip would yield the same white dots in the same spot every time. The fact is; DLP chips get hot, semi-conductors degrade with intense heat, therefore cool it them. Problem solved; a simple yet sophisticated remedy to a highly overlooked problem.
i loev saving mony to!,i boungh a 550$ projector for a mere 375$, so yeah i rule and lifesized porn!!! BUAHAHAH