It seems to be a crowd favorite and when I was trying to figure these out, I couldn't find any instruction anywhere, so I'm happy to share my experience. Thanks for watching.
In a world that thinks they can make instructional videos you sir are making great concise understandable instructional videos. Thank you! I have a door like this I am replacing at my shop, I do small repair and remodel work. I have the confidence to tackle any project and I now feel I have everything I need to get this done right. Keep making more! Who knows, If all goes well I may start doing more of these myself on the side!
Hey hey. Thanks for those kind words. In the early stage of contracting career, I'd come across tasks for which I simply couldn't find any instruction, even from manufacturers, so even though my stuff might not be perfect, I'm trying to lend a hand to others who want to learn, and thanking the others who've helped me along the way. Thanks for watching. I appreciate it.
If I had someone who I could trust to install it perfectly (like you), I would gladly pay for an install like this.... Since I dont, your video was very instructive and I plan on doing it myself. Thank you!
I'm so glad you found this helpful. There are NO instructions from manufacturers or anyone else because each installation is unique. I've done many and have tried to explain the ways this can be done as clearly as possible. Thanks so much for watching and for your kind contribution. I appreciate it.
Great video. I am a carpenter/remodeler and have to do a couple of these. Good step by step and explanations. Keep making videos, ones like this are exactly what are needed. Just don't want to mess up an expensive door and then be stuck at 6:00 with a big hole in the wall
For many years I was a contractor that specialized in interior construction with all installations on wood framed buildings. Something hit me today thinking what would be involved replacing a metal door jamb and door in concrete construction. Just as I imagined, it is a job and a half! Nice work bro!
that's for those nice words. there are no manuals or instructions from manufacturers on how to do this, so I've learned to do the best I can. Thanks for watching.
@@askillthatpays I served a 4 year apprenticeship, including night classes with Carpenters Union 668 in Palo Alto California when I was not much more than a boy. Early on, I had some old school journeymen that were very good mentors; a few were outstanding. This foundation was very valuable. As journeymen and as years went by we fed off each other to develop high skills. Obtaining contractors license opens up another huge bucket of variables and responsibilities. Lights go on when we see jobs like this metal door; it is in our blood bro. It feels weird and sad for me, as I have no one to pass all my valuable skills to.
Thank you for taking the time to film this with such thorough explanations. Really impressive and so informative! I do not hold a job in construction but can still appreciate the time, work and effort that both installing and instructing take, so wishing you all the best. New subscriber as a result :)
I appreciate those kind words and I'm glad you enjoyed. I have searched long and hard for any assistance on these types of installations. There is no instruction anywhere that I'm aware of when it comes to doing a retrofit like this. There are no guidelines and manufacturers offer nothing, so I just try to get them in securely and make sure they work, and pass on my experience to others. Thanks for watching.
I've never found anything regarding these and the manufacturers don't provide any info because they're all so different, so I posted this to share what I've learned and I hope it helps. Thanks again for watching.
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. I am installing two of these tomorrow. I feel a lot more comfortable and confident now after watching this. Thanks again and God bless you.
Glad I could help. Having done so many of these I can assure you that they never go in perfectly or the same so be patient and you'll figure it out. Thanks for watching.
Awesome video: fyi-cutting the strike isn’t ideal as the lock’s latch needs to smoothly ride on the lip of the strike for decades of smooth operation-suggestion: Don-Jo LP-111-630 latch protector. Thanks for the video!!!
Wow amazing video. You are a true craftsman. Thank you for all the step by step instruction. I love the little hint of wrapping tape around the metal anchors. Never heard that one before.
You're welcome. I've done this a long time and I've learned many great tips from other contractors so I'm happy to pass on the knowledge. Thanks for watching. I appreciate it.
Well done! I've installed dozens of steel doors but never replaced a grouted in welded frame. Got a call this morning to do one and now I'm going in with confidence. You explained all the steps in a really concise and understandable way.
Very good morning and thank you so very much your unselfish very educative share. You are a natural teacher and knowledgeable,wishing you so much success in your trades career.
Thanks. That's very kind of you to say. I get frustrated when instructions for anything aren't clear, so I try to explain as well as I can. I've benefitted from many who have taught me things, and I've learned a lot by trying things that are uncomfortable, so I'm happy to pass along the knowledge. Thanks for watching.
I'm glad I could help out. I've been doing this a long time and learning these things hasn't been easy, so I'm truly happy to share my knowledge with others trying to learn. Thanks for watching.
You're welcome. This is one of the most challenging things to do as these are all different and there's no set way to do them and there are no instruction manuals for these. I try to share my knowledge with others. Thanks for watching.
glad I could help. There are absolutely no manuals or manufacturer videos on how to do these, so I've tried to show techniques that have worked for me. Thanks for watching.
Can't go wrong with that combo. I've found that the 3/8" sleeves work best in pure poured concrete but are hit and miss on concrete blocks so I don't take a chance because I'm just not that good With them. Thanks for watching.
glad you enjoyed it. there are no manuals or manufacturer info for how to do such a thing, so I'm happy to share my knowledge and am glad people find it helpful. thanks for watching
This one seems to be a crowd favorite. And keep in mind that there are no manuals or instructions for how to do these. Each situation is different, so I just show how I approach it. Thanks for watching.
I'm glad you enjoyed it. My haters would disagree with you and say that I'm an idiot, but they offer no videos, just confessions of their inadequacy. Thanks for watching.
You're welcome. This one seems to be a crowd favorite. There truly are no instructions for how to do these by any manufacturers because they're all unique. Many haters have commented that I'm an idiot and don't know what I'm doing, however, none of them have any videos or subscribers. I've done many of these and have learned with each one, so I'm happy to pass on my experience. Thanks for watching.
You're welcome and I'm glad to hear that someone is an apprentice. Stick with it and you'll do well as very few people are learning trades. Thanks for watching
Instead of wood stud in the throat for not allowing the frame to bend they make steel butterfly anchors you can manually twist in that the screw will go into and act as reinforcements A commercial door company should have those in stock and the EO (existing opening) bolts
That's correct, and when clients order certain types of frames, those are included. However, it's not something available at depot or Lowes, and commercial door companies are 45 mins away, so when needed, I just do it this way. Faster and cheaper. Thanks for watching.
I sell these for a living.. you did a good job but you should get your frames plug and strapped with pre drilled holes and plates welded on the back of the jamb!
You are correct, and when I've had clients order these from commercial supply, that's we they get. This particular job was for a panicked property manager who said, "please get it done yesterday." I appreciate your feedback and thanks for watching. Sound advice is always welcome here.
Look into something called a Security Astrigal instead of that plate to secure the lock hardware on the edge of the door. It rins the entire length of the door and also doesn't require you cut the ASA strike plate (but those are easy to replace). Pemko makes the Astrigals. You'd chop it to size then through bolt it onto the door. I'm a locksmith and watching your vidoes on slushed metal frames tells me why I don't quite expand my work into full-service door work.
good video. that's pretty much what a normal door frame looks like in some countries. normally you remove the old one with a hammer and chisel or a hammer drill, then get the door in place (the door is closed for this). trick of the trade they leave the plastic wraping of the door on (just the door but not the frame , otherways it will get covered with mortar later on). check for plomb. then may be a couple lagbolts or just rebar going inside the cinderblocks and then fill teh frame with mortar from the sides. if the gap at the sides is too small you use a chisel to enlarge it. if it's too big you add brick pieces. that gap and the top you just get whole red bricks in there and mortar untill the gap is gone. with this method you can't open the door for like 24hs minimun depending on the weather it might be 48hs, unless you use rapid cement.
Hey thanks for sharing all that. sounds like you really know your stuff. I'm gonna hit you up when I'm ready to make my concrete bunker. Thanks for watching
Thats was good job!!! We are all learning more, and improving ourselves job after job. Very explanatory and consistent. Good video. How much is the cost of that work?
I'm glad you enjoyed it. There simply aren't any instructions anywhere on how to install these and the manufacturers are no help, so I just do the best I can and I'm happy to share what I've learned. Thanks for watching.
N I don't. I've installed those before but not made video of them. You can't dimple these. They come pre-dimpled when that's the case and you have to use the screws that come with them in order to fit, and in my experience, the screws rarely work and I have to use something else. Thanks for watching.
No because the new door would have to be 4" more narrow. Either reuse the frame with a new door, or remove the frame and add a new pre-hung unit. Thanks again for watching.
I have an installation coming up with the same type of application, im a diy guy whos pretty handy, i want to do exactly what your doing here. The building i recently purchased is prob close to 95 yrs old. I was thinking of trying to fill cement down the 2 sides of the jam through the top opening for extra security. i would love to know your thoughts. Great video and install.
That's not a bad idea and I've done it, but it's very challenging. I ended up mixing very loose mortar and pouring it in with a hose and funnel. Really messy and hard to do. Here's another idea. Add extra screws to the inside of the frame. In addition to putting them in the middle of the jamb like I did, drill some holes on the side of the jamb that's inside the building and install Tapcon screws. It's not as hard to do and it will frustrate anyone trying to destroy the jamb. Thanks for watching
Hey, thak you really much for all those advices! Just two questions, did you have to cut the concrete inside the frame, or did it break when you took the letal off? Also the screws will always stay apparent, right?
Didn't have to cut the concrete in the frame other than the first cut. Once you score it somewhere, it all peels off easily. Not sure what you mean by screws are "apparent." Visible? Yes, from the inside. If they were outside and accessible I would strip them, however, in 15 yrs of my door business, I've never seen a break in in which someone took apart a door or hinges in some manner, even if it was accessible. Thanks for watching.
Ok thanks for responding I was wondering how for example you break it where the metal rebar was, as it is meant to be strong! Also yes, I was talking about the visible screws, I understand that there is no other way tho, but the problem was not someone taking it off, it's just that the screws stick out a little bit. And btw, is it an option to pour concrete in the framing for the 2nd door also? Isn't that easier?
so i am a door guy, but rarely do hollow metal. now my contractor wants 48 hollow metal doors and frames installed. curious what you guys are charging per frame.
Congrats. That sounds fun. It's hard to give exact pricing because I have to look at the logistics. Parking, stairs, are the doors staged or am I carrying them to location, wraparound or welded frame. And of course I'd give a big discount for bulk because day 1 is always awkward and sluggish and might only get one door done. By day 3 you're cruising because you figure out a system. I like to price per door. Of course nobody has an endless budget but depending on how hard they are to install, I'd say $200 per is a good starting point. With that many you might even propose doing the first 5 for X amount and then agree on a per door price going forward. Don't be afraid to ask for what you're worth because nobody else is going to be able to do that job, that's why they contacted YOU. Good luck and thanks for watching.
Yes. Once you have removed an existing jamb, you can install any type of jamb or door you desire. Keep in mind that these are ACTUAL jobs of mine. I don't make them up. I'm doing what the clients desire. Thanks for watching.
This particular job was about 6 hours. It's not often that I have to do the stucco at the end, and the unknown is the demo. Sometimes I can get this out in 10 minutes with little effort. Other times it can take 45 mins and be exhausting. Thanks for watching.
You could always order a door to fit the opening and wait until it arrives before starting the job. The business has been using the door every day up to this point anyway.... 🤷♂🤷♂
That's correct, however, I can't always reveal the owner's desires. In this case the building manager wanted the fastest and least expensive option, so that's what we went with. Thanks for watching. I appreciate it.
That is true, however it won't affect operation. Since I'm not a locksmith, I don't carry a variety of lock specific tools. I'm only able to take apart Kwikset brand locks. This brand is a Universal lock that comes with the door and I can only install it as it comes. That's a good eye to notice such a thing. If You're a locksmith, make a video that shows how to take it apart and turn it over. That would be very helpful. Thanks for watching.
On that particular job it was everything except the door which was about $500. These can be exhausting and challenging, and other times they pop in and out. This video shows what I would consider to be challenging, but not brutal. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
Many factors to consider. I've run businesses in 2 states. In CA with a "do it yesterday," client $1000 + materials. In TN with a "I'd like to work with you" client, $600 + materials. Sometimes these things come out and go in easily, sometimes they can be an all-day nightmare depending on how they were originally installed. Keep in mind that MY pricing always includes choosing, pickup and delivery of the doors. Thanks for watching.
That is what i dislike about contractors be it construction or excavation. They never do it right or half ass. These steel doors an frames only come primed no paint finish. They install the door an walk away. When your contract says complet door frame install an finnish. Same with the sheet metal wood frame house doors the wood frame and sheet metal is only a primer not a finish coat. I stay pant all the doors an frames in the shop first.. i love it when i give a price but cutomer calls in the cheap guy.. they never do it right or leave unfinished and a mess. Then they call me to fix it. Now it cost them 3 times what i qoutes because i dont know what they did or didnt do so i am going to pull it a part.. i dont like useing screww in the jam. To easey to be removed. I use large stainless steel huck rivits pulls it in tight and no way they come loss or out. I also put weather stripping on the fold of the steel frame were it hits the cement or wood frame. Calk peals off in know time an leaks an bugs get in.. i do calk it as well but a heavy rubber weather strip you cant beat. Insects get in every tiny crack
That's a thorough comment. I've seen others use the Huck rivet tool and it's great. I simply wouldn't use it enough to justify the expense. I appreciate your expertise and thanks for watching
Wow, one of the best instructional videos I’ve ever seen! Short and sweet, clear and concise. Well done!!
It seems to be a crowd favorite and when I was trying to figure these out, I couldn't find any instruction anywhere, so I'm happy to share my experience. Thanks for watching.
In a world that thinks they can make instructional videos you sir are making great concise understandable instructional videos. Thank you! I have a door like this I am replacing at my shop, I do small repair and remodel work. I have the confidence to tackle any project and I now feel I have everything I need to get this done right. Keep making more! Who knows, If all goes well I may start doing more of these myself on the side!
Hey hey. Thanks for those kind words. In the early stage of contracting career, I'd come across tasks for which I simply couldn't find any instruction, even from manufacturers, so even though my stuff might not be perfect, I'm trying to lend a hand to others who want to learn, and thanking the others who've helped me along the way. Thanks for watching. I appreciate it.
If I had someone who I could trust to install it perfectly (like you), I would gladly pay for an install like this.... Since I dont, your video was very instructive and I plan on doing it myself. Thank you!
I'm so glad you found this helpful. There are NO instructions from manufacturers or anyone else because each installation is unique. I've done many and have tried to explain the ways this can be done as clearly as possible. Thanks so much for watching and for your kind contribution. I appreciate it.
good job! I learned what I needed. Your explained it so well! thanks!
Great video. I am a carpenter/remodeler and have to do a couple of these. Good step by step and explanations. Keep making videos, ones like this are exactly what are needed. Just don't want to mess up an expensive door and then be stuck at 6:00 with a big hole in the wall
Glad I could help. Took a lot of exploring and experimenting to figure these out and I'm happy to share. Thanks for watching
For many years I was a contractor that specialized in interior construction with all installations on wood framed buildings. Something hit me today thinking what would be involved replacing a metal door jamb and door in concrete construction. Just as I imagined, it is a job and a half! Nice work bro!
that's for those nice words. there are no manuals or instructions from manufacturers on how to do this, so I've learned to do the best I can. Thanks for watching.
@@askillthatpays I served a 4 year apprenticeship, including night classes with Carpenters Union 668 in Palo Alto California when I was not much more than a boy. Early on, I had some old school journeymen that were very good mentors; a few were outstanding. This foundation was very valuable. As journeymen and as years went by we fed off each other to develop high skills. Obtaining contractors license opens up another huge bucket of variables and responsibilities. Lights go on when we see jobs like this metal door; it is in our blood bro. It feels weird and sad for me, as I have no one to pass all my valuable skills to.
Thank you for taking the time to film this with such thorough explanations. Really impressive and so informative! I do not hold a job in construction but can still appreciate the time, work and effort that both installing and instructing take, so wishing you all the best. New subscriber as a result :)
I appreciate those kind words and I'm glad you enjoyed. I have searched long and hard for any assistance on these types of installations. There is no instruction anywhere that I'm aware of when it comes to doing a retrofit like this. There are no guidelines and manufacturers offer nothing, so I just try to get them in securely and make sure they work, and pass on my experience to others. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the great tutorial on steel door replacement!
Great video that includes a lot of pointers and answers many questions!
Glad I could help and thanks for watching.
Thank you so much I know it’s a lot of labor but for sure with what you showed me I can knock one down
I've never found anything regarding these and the manufacturers don't provide any info because they're all so different, so I posted this to share what I've learned and I hope it helps. Thanks again for watching.
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. I am installing two of these tomorrow. I feel a lot more comfortable and confident now after watching this. Thanks again and God bless you.
Glad I could help. Having done so many of these I can assure you that they never go in perfectly or the same so be patient and you'll figure it out. Thanks for watching.
Awesome video: fyi-cutting the strike isn’t ideal as the lock’s latch needs to smoothly ride on the lip of the strike for decades of smooth operation-suggestion: Don-Jo LP-111-630 latch protector. Thanks for the video!!!
I'm glad you were able to learn something. Thanks for watching.
Fantastic install
I appreciate that. Thanks for watching
Yo!!! Great video! You just made my headache job I’ve been dreading look a lot easier. Lots of info with no BS. Thanks!
That's great to hear. Thanks for watching
Thank for posting. Very well done.
You're very welcome. It seems to be a glad favorite so I'm glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching.
Wow amazing video. You are a true craftsman. Thank you for all the step by step instruction. I love the little hint of wrapping tape around the metal anchors. Never heard that one before.
You're welcome. I've done this a long time and I've learned many great tips from other contractors so I'm happy to pass on the knowledge. Thanks for watching. I appreciate it.
Such a great explanation! Super concise and hit all of the points!! Well done... thanks
That's great to hear. I appreciate your kind words. I've done this a long time and happy to share the knowledge. Thanks for watching
Excellent video if only I found this at the beginning of my searching.
Well done! I've installed dozens of steel doors but never replaced a grouted in welded frame. Got a call this morning to do one and now I'm going in with confidence. You explained all the steps in a really concise and understandable way.
That's great to hear. Glad I could help in some way. Thanks for watching.
Great joy to watch and learn. Very much appreciate you.
And I appreciate YOU. Glad you found it worth your time. Thanks for watching
Solid video man. Nice to see something that isn't of a pristine new construction.
Glad you enjoyed. Whenever possible, I try to shoot the reality of these jobs. Thanks for watching.
Great video and insight without bs
Glad you enjoyed it. Insight and no BS, that's how I work. Thanks for watching
Great video. Loved the part where we got to see the pile of tools you used on the ground. Prob 10 trips to the truck.
Ten trips if I'm lucky. LOL. No matter how well I prep, it's Always at least 10 trips to vehicle. Thanks for watching
You are an artist engineer. Excellent video. Loved it.
I love the flashing job at the top.
Thanks. I appreciate the kind words. And thanks for watching.
Very good morning and thank you so very much your unselfish very educative share. You are a natural teacher and knowledgeable,wishing you so much success in your trades career.
Thanks. That's very kind of you to say. I get frustrated when instructions for anything aren't clear, so I try to explain as well as I can. I've benefitted from many who have taught me things, and I've learned a lot by trying things that are uncomfortable, so I'm happy to pass along the knowledge. Thanks for watching.
EXCELLENT!
Super helpful. I'm ordering some new steel shop doors now and this explains a few things.
I'm glad I could help out. I've been doing this a long time and learning these things hasn't been easy, so I'm truly happy to share my knowledge with others trying to learn. Thanks for watching.
Good job. Thank you for the education.
You're welcome. This is one of the most challenging things to do as these are all different and there's no set way to do them and there are no instruction manuals for these. I try to share my knowledge with others. Thanks for watching.
Beautiful job Sir! Thank you
glad I could help. There are absolutely no manuals or manufacturer videos on how to do these, so I've tried to show techniques that have worked for me. Thanks for watching.
Good job, I like to use a dimpler and 3/8" sleeve anchors.
Can't go wrong with that combo. I've found that the 3/8" sleeves work best in pure poured concrete but are hit and miss on concrete blocks so I don't take a chance because I'm just not that good With them. Thanks for watching.
Great video
I'm glad you liked it. Thanks for watching
Thanks for the great tutorial
glad you enjoyed it. there are no manuals or manufacturer info for how to do such a thing, so I'm happy to share my knowledge and am glad people find it helpful. thanks for watching
Great job! Very well explained. A+ !
This one seems to be a crowd favorite. And keep in mind that there are no manuals or instructions for how to do these. Each situation is different, so I just show how I approach it. Thanks for watching.
Great install
I'm glad you enjoyed it. My haters would disagree with you and say that I'm an idiot, but they offer no videos, just confessions of their inadequacy. Thanks for watching.
Great video.
Thanks for watching. It seems to be a crowd favorite, so I'm glad so many people are enjoying it.
Thanks very much mate!
You're welcome. This one seems to be a crowd favorite. There truly are no instructions for how to do these by any manufacturers because they're all unique. Many haters have commented that I'm an idiot and don't know what I'm doing, however, none of them have any videos or subscribers. I've done many of these and have learned with each one, so I'm happy to pass on my experience. Thanks for watching.
Very useful thank you for sharing 💪🏾💪🏾
Glad you enjoyed it. Of my 200+ videos this one is clearly a top 5 fave. I had no idea. Thanks for watching.
Excellent vid. Subscribed, looking forward to more
I appreciate that. For whatever reason, this one seems to be a favorite. I'm glad you liked it and thanks for watching.
Great video! Im a carpenters apprentice and always found welded frames and knock down frames confusing. Thanks for the insights! 🫡
You're welcome and I'm glad to hear that someone is an apprentice. Stick with it and you'll do well as very few people are learning trades. Thanks for watching
Blown away I feel like I can do this!
That's what I like to hear. Thanks for watching
Very nice thanks
This seems to be among my most popular videos. I had no idea people would enjoy this so much. Thanks for watching.
Nice! Your are a pro.
I'm always learning, and thanks for those nice words. I appreciate it. Thanks for watching
Love it
Thanks for watching. I appreciate it
Instead of wood stud in the throat for not allowing the frame to bend they make steel butterfly anchors you can manually twist in that the screw will go into and act as reinforcements
A commercial door company should have those in stock and the EO (existing opening) bolts
That's correct, and when clients order certain types of frames, those are included. However, it's not something available at depot or Lowes, and commercial door companies are 45 mins away, so when needed, I just do it this way. Faster and cheaper. Thanks for watching.
I sell these for a living.. you did a good job but you should get your frames plug and strapped with pre drilled holes and plates welded on the back of the jamb!
You are correct, and when I've had clients order these from commercial supply, that's we they get. This particular job was for a panicked property manager who said, "please get it done yesterday." I appreciate your feedback and thanks for watching. Sound advice is always welcome here.
@@askillthatpays Cheers man! happy installing - I will continue to sell these from my cushy desk job lol
Look into something called a Security Astrigal instead of that plate to secure the lock hardware on the edge of the door. It rins the entire length of the door and also doesn't require you cut the ASA strike plate (but those are easy to replace). Pemko makes the Astrigals. You'd chop it to size then through bolt it onto the door.
I'm a locksmith and watching your vidoes on slushed metal frames tells me why I don't quite expand my work into full-service door work.
Send a link if you have a favorite type. That's a great tip and never heard of it. I appreciate it and thanks for watching.
good video. that's pretty much what a normal door frame looks like in some countries. normally you remove the old one with a hammer and chisel or a hammer drill, then get the door in place (the door is closed for this). trick of the trade they leave the plastic wraping of the door on (just the door but not the frame , otherways it will get covered with mortar later on). check for plomb. then may be a couple lagbolts or just rebar going inside the cinderblocks and then fill teh frame with mortar from the sides. if the gap at the sides is too small you use a chisel to enlarge it. if it's too big you add brick pieces. that gap and the top you just get whole red bricks in there and mortar untill the gap is gone. with this method you can't open the door for like 24hs minimun depending on the weather it might be 48hs, unless you use rapid cement.
Hey thanks for sharing all that. sounds like you really know your stuff. I'm gonna hit you up when I'm ready to make my concrete bunker. Thanks for watching
Thats was good job!!! We are all learning more, and improving ourselves job after job. Very explanatory and consistent. Good video. How much is the cost of that work?
I'm glad you enjoyed it. There simply aren't any instructions anywhere on how to install these and the manufacturers are no help, so I just do the best I can and I'm happy to share what I've learned. Thanks for watching.
You did excellent work you are the best. Thank you for sure. You help me a lot to install a new door. 😊
Thank you for your kind words. I've been doing this a long time and I'm happy to share the things I've learned along the way. Thanks for watching.
Do you have a tutorial on a knock down steel frame door in a wood framed opening?
Yes. I have a commercial door playlist. This might suit you best. Thanks for watching.
czcams.com/video/zA35wuAZG90/video.html
Man I’m am moved I can’t believe it’s been that long
do you have a video where you dimple the frame and counter sink the attachment bolts?
N I don't. I've installed those before but not made video of them. You can't dimple these. They come pre-dimpled when that's the case and you have to use the screws that come with them in order to fit, and in my experience, the screws rarely work and I have to use something else. Thanks for watching.
ever just left the metal frame and built around a wooden prehung door?
No because the new door would have to be 4" more narrow. Either reuse the frame with a new door, or remove the frame and add a new pre-hung unit. Thanks again for watching.
I have an installation coming up with the same type of application, im a diy guy whos pretty handy, i want to do exactly what your doing here. The building i recently purchased is prob close to 95 yrs old. I was thinking of trying to fill cement down the 2 sides of the jam through the top opening for extra security. i would love to know your thoughts. Great video and install.
That's not a bad idea and I've done it, but it's very challenging. I ended up mixing very loose mortar and pouring it in with a hose and funnel. Really messy and hard to do. Here's another idea. Add extra screws to the inside of the frame. In addition to putting them in the middle of the jamb like I did, drill some holes on the side of the jamb that's inside the building and install Tapcon screws. It's not as hard to do and it will frustrate anyone trying to destroy the jamb. Thanks for watching
Hey, thak you really much for all those advices!
Just two questions, did you have to cut the concrete inside the frame, or did it break when you took the letal off?
Also the screws will always stay apparent, right?
Didn't have to cut the concrete in the frame other than the first cut. Once you score it somewhere, it all peels off easily. Not sure what you mean by screws are "apparent." Visible? Yes, from the inside. If they were outside and accessible I would strip them, however, in 15 yrs of my door business, I've never seen a break in in which someone took apart a door or hinges in some manner, even if it was accessible. Thanks for watching.
Ok thanks for responding
I was wondering how for example you break it where the metal rebar was, as it is meant to be strong!
Also yes, I was talking about the visible screws, I understand that there is no other way tho, but the problem was not someone taking it off, it's just that the screws stick out a little bit.
And btw, is it an option to pour concrete in the framing for the 2nd door also? Isn't that easier?
I guess what i have mostly seen is having rebar anchors epoxied into the block then welded , sanded down then bondo’ed. And painted .
Thanks for sharing that knowledge and thanks for watching.
so i am a door guy, but rarely do hollow metal. now my contractor wants 48 hollow metal doors and frames installed. curious what you guys are charging per frame.
Congrats. That sounds fun. It's hard to give exact pricing because I have to look at the logistics. Parking, stairs, are the doors staged or am I carrying them to location, wraparound or welded frame. And of course I'd give a big discount for bulk because day 1 is always awkward and sluggish and might only get one door done. By day 3 you're cruising because you figure out a system. I like to price per door. Of course nobody has an endless budget but depending on how hard they are to install, I'd say $200 per is a good starting point. With that many you might even propose doing the first 5 for X amount and then agree on a per door price going forward. Don't be afraid to ask for what you're worth because nobody else is going to be able to do that job, that's why they contacted YOU. Good luck and thanks for watching.
There is a freight elevator. I have a four wheel door cart. I think these guys have three similar buildings too. So
Thanks for responding.
can i just take off the door and use the steel frame and add a wood jam and door to it? i dont care what it looks like.
Yes. Once you have removed an existing jamb, you can install any type of jamb or door you desire. Keep in mind that these are ACTUAL jobs of mine. I don't make them up. I'm doing what the clients desire. Thanks for watching.
How long does it take to do all this job?
This particular job was about 6 hours. It's not often that I have to do the stucco at the end, and the unknown is the demo. Sometimes I can get this out in 10 minutes with little effort. Other times it can take 45 mins and be exhausting. Thanks for watching.
Was the $1,000 for the Demo and install? or was that the total price of labor and materia
Demo and install. That was when I worked in Los Angeles. In Nashville I can get $600 for such a thing.
You could always order a door to fit the opening and wait until it arrives before starting the job. The business has been using the door every day up to this point anyway.... 🤷♂🤷♂
That's correct, however, I can't always reveal the owner's desires. In this case the building manager wanted the fastest and least expensive option, so that's what we went with. Thanks for watching. I appreciate it.
dead bolt is upside
You are correct. I'm glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching
The deadbolt is installed upsidedown!
That is true, however it won't affect operation. Since I'm not a locksmith, I don't carry a variety of lock specific tools. I'm only able to take apart Kwikset brand locks. This brand is a Universal lock that comes with the door and I can only install it as it comes. That's a good eye to notice such a thing. If You're a locksmith, make a video that shows how to take it apart and turn it over. That would be very helpful. Thanks for watching.
Is the $1000 time and material?
On that particular job it was everything except the door which was about $500. These can be exhausting and challenging, and other times they pop in and out. This video shows what I would consider to be challenging, but not brutal. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
How much is reasonable to pay?
Many factors to consider. I've run businesses in 2 states. In CA with a "do it yesterday," client $1000 + materials. In TN with a "I'd like to work with you" client, $600 + materials. Sometimes these things come out and go in easily, sometimes they can be an all-day nightmare depending on how they were originally installed. Keep in mind that MY pricing always includes choosing, pickup and delivery of the doors. Thanks for watching.
Aleluya
Thanks for watching. I appreciate it
I installed my pre hung steel door. Really not much difference than a wood frame, shims are everything.
Glad that worked out for you. Thanks for watching.
That is what i dislike about contractors be it construction or excavation. They never do it right or half ass. These steel doors an frames only come primed no paint finish. They install the door an walk away. When your contract says complet door frame install an finnish. Same with the sheet metal wood frame house doors the wood frame and sheet metal is only a primer not a finish coat. I stay pant all the doors an frames in the shop first.. i love it when i give a price but cutomer calls in the cheap guy.. they never do it right or leave unfinished and a mess. Then they call me to fix it. Now it cost them 3 times what i qoutes because i dont know what they did or didnt do so i am going to pull it a part.. i dont like useing screww in the jam. To easey to be removed. I use large stainless steel huck rivits pulls it in tight and no way they come loss or out. I also put weather stripping on the fold of the steel frame were it hits the cement or wood frame. Calk peals off in know time an leaks an bugs get in.. i do calk it as well but a heavy rubber weather strip you cant beat. Insects get in every tiny crack
That's a thorough comment. I've seen others use the Huck rivet tool and it's great. I simply wouldn't use it enough to justify the expense. I appreciate your expertise and thanks for watching